rocketeer

Looks good!

Wow, looks fantastic! Are you using led strips? Are you you connecting it to the dimmer? Any resistors required?

Just awesome!

Picture perfect!

What is the height and width of your arch? The size looks just right.

This is awesome! Any pictures of the arch and huD during assembly?

And you have such a big lounge? :music_whistling:

i can imagine how much it co$t to have one of these in the backyard.

What interface card are you using? What switch are you trying to use? Push buttons and toggles, even encoders, rotary switches can be mapped directly in the sim, or via Helios, without te need for lua scripting. Pots will need a card with analog input. Output like LED and LCD etc probably need lua editing. Look at tigershark's excellent tutorial on switch wiring.

You are right. Just map them to something. I got spoilt by helios. I thought anything that are not push buttons or toggles that are not using helios will need lua script, like pots and encoders. Forgot that encoders are just two buttons in the game controls. Yes it works. My bad.

I just use push buttons from radio shack, except for the CDU. Or look up digi key, mouser or Newark or allied electronics. They'd have plenty to choose from.

Thanks gremlin for the info. But if I don't arcaze, is there a generic way of editing lua in the controller text file to make encoder work? Do you have to edit lua when using arcaze for encoder?

Thanks R1. Has anyone figured out how to use encoders in lua? I know how to use encoders in Helios, but there are functions that require encoders that are not yet in Helios. So any help is appreciated.

UHF display Together with HARS and MFDs, Getting there, one day.

Now CMSC.

ADI and HSI.

Thanks for the info.

What do you think of 3D projectors? Do they have wide screen format? Have you tried 2x1 setup for such beemers?

Thanks Avlolga.

Again, the encoders like the toggles and push buttons earlier, they don't protrude much at the bottom, except the legs bent sideways. Altimeter's bottom. Bottom view of the SAI and clock. So there you have it, knobs beside gauges panels, switches over monitor, and yet none of them are likely to scratch the screen. Tomorrow, ADI and HSI. since these two sit on the thickest panel, they are real easy to do without risk of them sticking out too much at the bottom. I believe anybody should be able to do this two without problem. Although I'm not the first to put knobs and encoders at the front dash, I suppose I'd the first to 'solve' this challenge of switches over monitor and encoders for the gauges other than ADI and HSI? :music_whistling: anyway this is too much fun. who needs cable and TV when you can be day dreaming of pit building solutions all day?

now the tactile switches can sit flat since the legs can go into the groove. Next the SAI encoder is held by the top layer panel. The clock is also given a top layer, but with square holes cut to house the tactile switches. I'd add a piece of paper with paint over it to cover the tactile switches and holes, the same approach I did for the UFC and CDU. Without a CNC machine, some of this stuff is quite tedious.

Next, SAI and the digital clock. Here is the step by step of my 'trick'. Cut a square hole to house the encoder for the SAI. Cut some shallow groove for the legs of tactile switches for the clock. Next, add the SAI encoder, held by the top layer panel. for the clock, the push buttons tactile switches sit on a perf board to keep them in place.

The next challenge are the knobs on the gauges. Need to find encoders small enough in diameter and height to squeeze into the corner of the gauges and also be short enough to be hidden inside the panel body without protruding from the back. managed to find such encoder. I hid the encoder in the second layer, sitting it in a square hole. The first layer is to hold the encoder with a screw as shown below for the altimeter pressure knob. Will add the RWR brightness knob and encoder later. Now there is at least some knobs on the gauges.

since the switches barely protrude from the bottom, i can keep the distance between the main dash body and the monitor screen closer, which will look better.

ok, time for pictures. Started some fun with the front dash. I observed some of you that show gauges va a monitor are using one big flat piece of wood. The gauges have no knobs in front of them. Then for switches like toggles, some have rea toggles but choose not to place a monitor in that area, or move the AHCP panel to the left side of the monitor. The rationale would be to avoid real switches and knobs in front of a monitor. Well I insist of having that, but it can be tricky as either you have to monitor too far behind to avoid scratching the screen, or keep the screen close to the main panel but move switches away to the sides. This is how I did it. I build them 'up', if you image the panels as the horizon, the switches go under the panels. By adding layers, switches can sit higher up, therefore giving more room for the body of the switches and then they will not touch the screen. eg. where there are switches, you can have two layers of panels. Then the gauges can be a single layer, therefore it'd not look too thick. From the front it looks like this, looks ok to me. Similarly for the AHCP and gear panels. Notice that the switches below protrude from the bottom. Gear panel. AHCP. I chose to use two layers for a combined 10mm thickness. The top individual panels give the front a better look than one flat surface. The second layer is the actual front dash body. Combined the two layers are thick enough to hide most switches. I am happy with this arrangement. I get the switches and panels where they should be, yet I'd also be able to have the gauges beside them.