fael097

sigh.... and i was expecting to fly some sort of ultra modern fly by wire missile shooting bird. may be just me and barney, but new is always better.

you don't need any kind of filters. as you stated, you obviously can't block visible light :P but about too much light, it doesn't matter, as long as the camera can see your face, and about too little light, some cameras get slow fps from dark rooms, so that deppends on your camera. my ps3 eyecam works really good without ANY lights besides my monitor's. so it works pretty much in any light conditions, as long as you get good fps. ps.: too bad I didn't get the answer to my question :cry:

Wim, IDK, I assume we came up with some good ideas on free falcon forums? :S anyways, I've put the facetrack dll into DCS a10, but now it won't allow me to control my camera with my joystick, even with ftnoir closed and no webcam. is this how it's supposed to work? I'll have to remove the API if I want to use my controller to rotate view?

wim, I just tested the new API, and I must say, it works waay better than using ftnoir + ppjoy. however, we're still not able to keep the view steady. so I'm really looking forward to your next release ;) cheers

it's funny cuz when I went to the store asking for momentary switches, the guy had only the (on)-off-on switch, and I was wondering where in hell I'd use that. lol so thanks for explaining that!

the thrustmaster hotas-X has two different rudder axis, one in the joystick twist, and one in the back of the throttle stick. since I'm not gonna use those anymore (when I build my rudder pedals i wont be using the twist) I can connect the mini-stick pots to these axis. the sensitive axis will be more accurate to the real slew hat, I believe. @klafaille: speed brake switch = momentary boat switch = not momentary china hat = momentary? cuz thats my setup, two momentaries and one not.

So I was considering building my own throttle grip, but after a couple prototypes, I decided that it is really weird, and I'm just too used to my hotas-x. fits my hand and it's already done, so I wouldn't need to make the grip, wich is the hardest part imo. so I just got a few switches, two old joysticks, and an old dualshock controller so I decided to modify my hotas-x to have all warthog hotas functions. the only thing I won't have is a handle for each engine. that would require too much work, I'd have to saw the grip in half, make another rail for it to slide, etc. maybe in the future i might do it, but not now. so here's what I'm doing, I opened the throttle grip, and removed side buttons: then I replaced them for 2 (on)-off-(on) and one on-off-on switches, for the speedbrake, boat and china hat switches: covered them with L R buttons form my dualshock: I'll place the mic switch on the bottom hole, took a hat switch from an old joystick: then for the pinky switch, I'll use a regular 3 position toggle. for the coolie, I'll use another hat switch from another old joystick, and a dualshock mini-stick for the slew hat. for the left throttle button I'll leave the back buttons on the hotas-x throttle. will post updates as soon as I do anything else :P

right. but I didn't find a way to contact mike, like an email address or anything do you know his address? thanks

I was going to buy his 2 books, but I had these question, and didn't find any help on his website. so if anyone knows the answers, please share ;) -can I put the 2 books on the same shipment, and pay only one shipping? -international shipping available? and same price? -any ebook version available? thanks

so, my groovy game gear arrived! and I just bought a leo bodnar's board for the axis. turns out that my old joystick usb card is not working properly. the axis (even using it's own pots) aren't analog anymore, but always 0% or 100%. maybe I broke it, because it used to work fine. I'm buying the wood to mount my structure, gonna have some pics hopefully soon.

I still didn't get an answer to why I can't install the 32bit version on my 64bit OS, as I asked on this thread: http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=75209&page=2

thanks for this patch. I hope it fixes many problems I'm having.

alright, got it working! any HID device that can transform a potentiometer in a directinput axis plus Helios will do the trick. in my case I used an old joystick's usb interface, but you can use leo bodnar's boards wich support axis, or anything else, and you'll be able to control knobs in DCS a-10, wich doesn't have axis assignment. just set lua script as the value source instead of trigger value, and use "return TriggerValue/65536" thanks to Alex_rcpilot and Gadroc from helios! cheers, Rafael

I definitely wouldnt buy the t-1600. it's so generic. the sensor is the only good thing on it, the rest is crap. buttons on both sides, will make one of the sides always useless. I have a TM hotas-X, the best cost benefit you can get. it's hotas, you can program modifiers via DCS interface, to have all hotas commands assigned to it, and its good and cheap.

thank you!

guess not :P

ok, I managed to use an old pot from that stick, that works fine from 0 to 65536 (directinput standard I believe), and I even managed to control the light knob on DCS, using helios. the only problem is that the slightes movement on the potentiometer makes it jump from 0 to 1023, I believe thats because of its resolution, right? apparently the maximum light knob value in dcs is lower than 1023, when i touch the potentiometer, light knob goes from 0 directly to max. is there some sort of division I can do, to be able to properly control the knob? through script, idk. thanks

going to do it, thanks

wow, this even shows how to make a hud, it's really good, it seems! thank you Deadman:thumbup:

well, as I mentioned, I bought a ps3 eyecam for trying out tracking softwares. It's as good as steady 30fps @ 640x480, and low light don't, or barely affect fps. most of the time, the screen light is enough to capture my face. the camera also has a blue and a red led, that might help. it's as cheap as $30-$40, but I had to import it, cuz in my country it's expensive as ##!@, so I paid a little extra for shipping/taxes, and had to wait a lot. still half the price if I would buy in here :P

Ahhh thats it! always learning :smartass: thanks for your time mate, and again, for all the effort you put into your guides :thumbup: cheers!

but wait... alex_rcpilot mentioned this: doesn't it mean I can add my card as input and use one direct input axis from it? or at least that if I buy leo bodnar's card, it will work?

sigh, can't believe it... I thought the SIOC thing was for the other switch issues, and that this export lua thing worked for any potentiometers through direct input. Assumed that because on the 7th post on this thread, mojo said: and on the referred post, he said and that never mentioned the SIOC thing, so I simply ignored the thread title, and other stuff he said about SIOC. I thought it was unrelated... lol so nope, I don't have a SIOC card, I have a gpwiz-40 wich has no potentiometer support, and a card from an old joystick, 4 axis, 12 buttons, POV, wich I'm trying to make a pot work with. guess I'll have to look for another solution, like defining keystrokes for certain axis positions through xpadder.... so lame :(

facetrack has no ambient light problems. I have my camera pointing to my face, and 3 light bulbs in the background, they dont affect it. facetrack api look for a face pattern, has nothing to do with lights. works like motion tracking softwares used in the movies industry about removing the IR filter, I'm not doing it again. I broke a microsoft lifecam trying to do that lol... now all it does is to output image in green/magenta. not tones of green/mag, only these two colours. and I didn't do anything besides removing the filter. now i bought a ps3 eyecam for the fps, paid my eyes for it, and took 3 months to arrive. not gonna break another cam, for a lame led points tracking software, that will not work much better than face tracking. can't afford it... and yes, I've been trhough it all, crafted my 3 point clip, did filters with floppy disks, I even got it working stable once, but the tracking in game is as shaky as facetrack. filters equally bad aswell. then tried to removed IR filter to see if I would get any improvements and broke it. at least facetrack developement is not dead like freetrack, and Wim really accept suggestions for its developement.

wow, I thanked the wrong guy :S shouldnt drink this early in the morning... can you reconsider the question above? lol cheers