TulsA-10

I asked this question to a real a-10 pilot from the 188th and he said it depends on how many planes in the flight, mission, time on station, and if they are flying as fac. He said the sim default load was good minus aim-9

Manpads are just a cost of doing business.. I love seeing the whites of their eyes before unleashing hell.

Stumbling onto a whole seat would be cool and scary at the sametime. We had a blast at the show and got hundreds of great pics and videos. I'll post some tomorrow as I am exhausted. Walked miles plus took care of a 1 1/5 year old boy.

Yes sir! i'm back in town so i'll try and make a video tonight.

Happy day! I just found one on ebay thanks for the quick link from deadman.. Thankd bud

Can we get support for phidget servo boards? Please??? The phidget boards do not so up as an interface.

No need for resistors with the phidget 1031 board. The leds are all powered by the pcb and you can specify the voltage and current through helios. It's quit simple how it works once you do it. That's alot of money for the caution light only. You will have 63 other leds you can run. You can use them for panel lights or other things and you can adjust each leds brightness. I have mine all wired up and working great. I'll get a video next week as i will be out of town for and airshow.

Holly cow man.. nice work.. I can't wait to download.

Ah crap.. I hate when that happens. I have not made any cdu progress yet. I'm going to tackle my aces ii seat first. The cdu will probably be one of the last panels i complete just due to the complexity of adding a screen. The cdu board will be very similar to the ufc board.

WOW man this is great! Can't wait to try this.

Yes.. very exciting news!

Even better.. I'll leave the jet on blocks by the time i'm done. If you have ever seen lord of war when they dismantle the cargo plane.. Day two of the airshow starts and all that is left at the a-10 static display is a set of tires I noticed this after i was almost finished. I should of used the longer tactile switches. If i where to build another one i would change a couple things. Cheers,

Now we're talking! I'll be out of state this weekend, big airshow at KFSM in fortsmith AK. The 188th will have static A-10Cs for me to creep on. Pics, Pics, Pics :worthy:

Yes sir helios will control the leds including the master caution light.. very cool. I'll put up a video on how to do it once i get it setup. Yeah my initial lighting test showed the bleeding so i cut thin stips of black electrical tape and applied it to the areas that showed the most. I must have missed a few spots but i'm not going to run the leds at max more like 25%-40%. I'm really happy with the way it turned out and i still wanna buy your ufc box for another project if you can still cut it along with other panels for me. Thank you. I enjoy soldering very much and find it an art form worth mastering. I solder everyday under a microscope on cell phones and game consoles, laptops and other items. It took about and hour to get it all done. I could of taken more time to make it better looking but man i was ready to get it finished..lol. I didn't see the need to heat shirnk any of the connections because the led legs are stiff and as long as they are seperated and not touching shorting won't be an issue. This would not of turned out as nice if it was not for the cnc work and helios tips from pitbldr and some other fellows. Thanks everyone who helped me throught the build :thumbup:

Dman.. one less A-10 in the world. Glad the pilot is ok.

Yes the caution light is wired to the phidget 1031 board and driven by helios as the green leds are. It's hard to make anything hand made look perfect. It's a very tight fit in the box so the soldering was a bit of fun.lol I just wired it all up and did a quick all on test. I will configure with helios later tonight and watch the caution light blink.

UPDATE!!! New pics of the wiring up the rats nest..lol I took some pics with the leds at full brightness and some at a more comfortable level. Hope this gives you guys some ideas of what to do or not to do :thumbup: I think i'm going to add a few more leds to even out a few dim areas.

Yup just tried it and works great. I used the up, right, and down.

cool i'll wire it up and give it shot.

i'm staying tuned into this thread as i am also going down the servo path.

I thought about the hat connections but was not sure if it would work right.. so i'll give it a shot. Thank you.

Dule blades are a no go..lol You'll get it working man.. piece of cake. Yeah if your in the tulsa are stop by my shop and we can nerd out on A-10 Stuff :thumbup:

I have a usb pcb and some servos coming so i'm gonna play around with them in helios and let you guys know how it goes

Yup it's all done by jigsaw. You have to get very fine teeth blades and change them often and when cutting go extremly slow and straight. I don't have access to alot of metal so it plexiglass for me..lol I will have to wire the three extra buttons to another board as i am out of connections with this one.

UPDATE! Ok well she is almost finished. This is a trial fit with a box i cut out of plexiglass with a jigsaw and epoxied it all together. I ordered a box from pitbldr aswell. I made a backup incase my boards don't fit in pit's ufc box. I have the usb control pcb and a phidget 1031 inside the box to control the leds for the ufc plus the leds for the whole left console when i build it. I wanted a flush box so i made my oun stand offs for the boards and used aluminum angle stock from lowe's and fridge magnet strips from wal-mart in order to make the top lid magnetic and very easy to open. !!TIP!!.. I added a small square strip of very thin 3m double sided adhesive i use at work fro cell phone iphone repair in order to keep the keys from rattling or moving around so they stay in place and give an even more solid feel when pushing buttons.