Namco51

Edit: I double posted because the thread got merged, sorry!: Its behavior, I'm tapping LCTRL+C and you're holding it. You're using the switch realistically and I'm using it like I'm copying a file. And it's how I've always done it for the past 12 years too and it's always worked and seemed fine to me. I'm wondering if, because I release the key too quickly, I am essentially aborting from it mid-command, like the switch state never gets reset. It's interesting because I'm sure many people use joy2key, joystick gremlin, Arduinos, and macros to just quickly hit LCTRL+C and run into that issue, and it explains a lot of odd behavior I've run into where a command doesn't work as a "map to keyboard" in joystick gremlin and I end up having to use a macro instead to force the key to be held down longer.

I see the problem. When I press LCTRL+C, I let go of LCTRL immediately after tapping C. What you are doing is holding LCTRL+C instead of tapping both. If you try pressing LCTRL, tapping C, and letting go of both immediately, you can duplicte the issue. Or, just assign a single key, like L to the command. The issue will occur if you press that key as opposed to holding it down. If you hold the keys, it acts like a momentary switch, if you tap the key it gets stuck down. This is why it keeps springing back up. Many of us use the command like we're copying something out of MS Word or something, by tapping it, and others hold the button.

I'm just learning the F16 after having bought it a while back, and I noticed the same thing as Sepruda and opened a new thread before finding this one. It has to do with the command called "Canopy - OPEN/CLOSE". If the canopy is fully open, and you use the binding for "Canopy - OPEN/CLOSE" (default is LCTRL+C) and keep an eye on the canopy toggle switch, it stays down. If you look at that yellow canopy locking handle, it's designed so that it can't close if the switch is down. That's why there's never an issue if you click and hold it to close the canopy, because when you let go of the mouse button, the canopy switch is released and returns to the center off position. But the "Canopy - OPEN/CLOSE" command, if you hit it when the canopy is fully open and it's closing on its own with no pilot interaction, you will NOT be able to click that yellow canopy handle to lock it, until you click the canopy switch to get it unstuck from the down position. So all the parts work correctly, it's just that Canopy - OPEN/CLOSE command never lets go of the switch, which blocks the lock. The real switch is (ON)-OFF-ON, which is momentary down, but toggle up, so it should never get stuck in the down position like that.

The Canopy OPEN/CLOSE command is bugged because it holds canopy switch down and does not release. This prevents use of canopy handle to lock the canopy. If you use Canopy OPEN/CLOSE (default is LCtrl+C) to close the canopy from the fully open position, the canopy switch is held in the down position indefinitely by the sim. While the canopy switch is stuck down, the canopy handle (lock/spider) CANNOT be closed (by design due to the position of the canopy switch and shape of the canopy handle) To get the canopy switch unstuck, you must left-click the canopy switch to return it to neutral again. Only then can you actually lock the canopy by clicking on the canopy handle. Because this switch is a momentary switch in the down position, but a toggle in the up position (aka, a (ON)-OFF-ON switch), it should not get stuck in the down position. You can also duplicate the behavior of the swtich getting stuck down without using Canopy OPEN/CLOSE. If you click and hold the canopy switch, and with it held mouse over to any other switch (such as CAT I/CAT II) and click it with the other mouse button, the canopy switch will also be stuck in that position indefinitely. The same rules then apply. If stuck down, you cannot interact with the canopy lock. If stuck up, you can interact with the canopy lock The Canopy OPEN/CLOSE command should let go of the switch after the canopy closes because it prevents use of the canopy handle. What good is the command if you have to then go click on the switch anyway? Can the action of clicking the canopy handle also recenter the canopy switch first? F-16 Canopy OPEN-CLOSE bug.trk

The Canopy OPEN/CLOSE command is bugged and it didn't occur to the original poster due to the user error of not fuly closing the canopy: If you use Canopy OPEN/CLOSE (default is LCtrl+C) to close the canopy, the canopy switch is held in the down position indefinitely by the sim. While the canopy switch is stuck down, the canopy handle (lock/spider) CANNOT be closed. To get the canopy switch unstuck, you must left-click the canopy switch to return it to neutral again. Only then can you actually lock the canopy by clicking on the canopy handle. In every other position of the canopy switch, and regardless if the canopy is actually open or closed, the canopy handle can always be interacted with. Because this switch is a momentary switch in the down position, but a toggle in the up position (aka, a (ON)-OFF-ON switch) , it looks like the same behavior of the canopy switch being stuck does occur when using Canopy OPEN/CLOSE to OPEN the canopy, except you actually CAN interact with the canopy handle while the canopy switch is stuck in the up position. And this looks to be by design by looking at the shape of the dark gray part of that handle--it actually can't fully close with that canopy switch stuck in the down position. You can also duplicate the behavior of the swtich getting stuck down without using Canopy OPEN/CLOSE. If you click and hold the canopy switch, and with it held mouse over to any other switch (such as CAT I/CAT II) and click it with the other mouse button, the canopy switch will also be stuck in that position indefinitely. The same rules then apply. If stuck down, you cannot interact with the canopy lock. If stuck up, you can interact with the canopy lock I think everyone would be happy if the Canopy OPEN/CLOSE command would let go of the switch after the canopy closes. That way, (when using the Canopy OPEN/CLOSE command, the canopy handle can be closed without locating and clicking the canopy switch first. EDIT: P.S. I'm sure that if someone reads my post, they'll tell me what I already know, that if you click the canopy switch down to close the canopy, then let go of the mouse button, then the switch will return to neutral and the handle will work again. Yes, we all get that. This is specifically about the behavior of the Canopy OPEN/CLOSE command holding the canopy switch down like some kind of trickster so you can flounder around with the locking handle not knowing why it's not working. F-16 Canopy OPEN-CLOSE bug.trk

Hi Tuuvas, thanks for the hard work doing this. Getting a kick out of the idea of flying with just a controller. I was mapping Viper controls using the mapping image from your imgur post and it did zoom using scroll wheel and turbo, which would work everywhere outside of cursor mode, and in this post it just says zoom view, so I assume it's using zoom slow. Why the change? I tried zoom slow first and didn't like how it behaved, then when trying to map scroll wheel, I couldn't figure out how to assign a shifted button state on the triggers using LB, so I gave up. (Actually controller went to sleep and the whole config was lost). Which do you think works better?

No, I don't have any layouts to share, it is a bit beyond me lol. I'll check out the discord, would love to get some more layouts! How do I get to a Discord invite? Thanks

Hello, This post is for future me who may want to figure this out again later, and/or someone as clueless as me. This install got a little confusing for me as a complete novice to dcs-bios and export.lua, and I just wanted to document the revelations I came across and what worked for me. It was really a LOT simpler than I thought. No disrespect to Moridar and his great work here. I love the end result, I just wasn't understanding and wanted to document it, so here goes: ********************************************************************************************** For anybody reading this who isn't already a dcs-bios/export.lua expert and couldn't get it working, let me explain it in simpler terms that may save you hours of time. The version of DCS-BIOS you want for this install is a fork of the main project called DCSFlightpanels/dcs-bios, NOT dcs-bios/dcs-bios, which, if you DO get it working, will recieve updates from dcs.exe, but will not send button presses. Link to the version you want is here: https://github.com/DCSFlightpanels/dcs-bios/releases. You want to download the DCS-BIOS_0.7.43a.zip file. You do not want the v0.10.0 DCS-BIOS hub one. That one is not compatible with this. So you download and extract BIOS_0.7.43a.zip, it's just a folder called DCS-BIOS and a really basic one-line Explort.lua. Extract them to your C:\Users\YOURNAME\Saved Games\DCS.openbeta\Scripts folder (or DCS\Scripts depending on which version of DCS you're working with. If you already have an export.lua there for something else, just add that one line to it. I spent a lot of time with the main project dcs-bios hub v0.10.0 version because I thought I should get that working first, but it would NOT see my DCS World install. It requires you to have installed DCS World using the Eagle Dynamics installer, not from having moved your install or hard drive over from anohter PC like I did. I think it also expects your DCS and Saved Games folders to be in their default locations too. That was a waste of time since the Flightpanels dcs-bios doesn't have the dcs-bios hub that was driving me nuts. Anyway, the gist of dcs-bios is, when dcs.exe (DCS World or DCS Open Beta) runs, it looks in your C:\Users\YOURNAME\Saved Games\DCS.openbeta\Scripts or C:\Users\YOURNAME\Saved Games\DCS\Scripts folder (depending on which one you launched) for the export.lua and runs that, it's painfully simple. The dcs-bios hub that comes with v0.10.0 just complicates things. With the dcs-bios part taken care of, there are 2 other components. TouchDCS and TouchOSC. The TouchDCS archive is just an exe and a folder with a couple layout files in it. The layout files are used with TouchOSC later. Extract TouchDCS literally anywhere (I stuck mine in my Eagle Dynamics program folder) and run the TouchDCSConsole.exe. Put the layouts folder on the PC you're going to run TouchOSC on, in my case a Microsoft Surface. When TouchDCS runs for the first time, it creates a config file in-place. Open that config file and edit it with the IP address of your device (Surface). Take note of the sending and recieving ports, 8000 & 9000. Over on the Microsoft Surface, TouchOCS is some kind of app for making buttons and faders and labels to control recording studio stuff and has its own installer. TouchDCS just intercepts DCS-BIOS's stuff outgoing on port 7778, then it takes that and talks to TouchOCS which is sending on port 8000/listening on port 9000. Install and launch TouchOCS. When it loads you have to File > Open one of the layouts that came with the TouchDCS archive. Hope you copied those folders to this device! Once the panel is loaded up in TouchOSC, click that little chain link button and then the "OSC" tab and configure it with the host info and ports that DCS World will be running on. The sending and recieving ports in TouchOSC will be opposite of the values in TouchDCS. It listens on 8000, sends on 9000. With all of that done, your workflow is to: 1) Launch TouchDCS from wherever you extracted it to on your main PC. 2) Launch TouchOSC on your secondary tablet PC, click File > Open > then select your layout file, like Hornet UFC.tosc, then click the little "play" button. F11 makes it fullscreen. 3) Launch DCS World and get in your aircraft and play with the cool dials and buttons on the tablet and watch them move in the sim and vice versa. It should all work, no messing with dcs-bios hub, dcs.exe takes care of talking to port 7778 and TouchDCS takes care of hearing that and talking to TouchDCS and back and forth . If you have dcs-bios hub in your system tray, you're doing it wrong, you don't want that for this. Anyway, good talk.

So this explains it. Was flying from Havadarya, over water the whole time, babying the engine, temps in the green, torque within tolerances, with Engine Break turned off in Special settings, and with air temp set to 25C. I didn't take the sand filter to save weight because I didn't think I needed it, you know, with Engine Break turned off and not flying over desert and everything. Thought I was going insane.

Hi Debolestis, I am in the middle of mounting my CH Fighterstick handle on my MS FFB2 shaft. I was looking for an adapter so I don't have to cut both of the joystick shafts. Does the Combat Stick have the same mounting shaft as the fighter stick? The Fighter stick shaft is 40mm tall, 12.75mm in diameter, has a divot in the shaft 27mm from the top, and has two little 2.5mm wings on it. I thought your FFB2 to Combat Stick was going to be perfect for this, but I see that it is rather tall. Is there any chance you have 1) a version that is much shorter (as short as possible (80mm)? and 2) a version that has the FFB2 spring retainer foot modeled into the base (not a huge requirement, but it would be nice to have this mechanical resistance to torque) like the Sopwith stick has: https://imgur.com/a/RnQQbAA . It also needs to be hollow so I can feed a 4mm cable through it down to the FFB2 base I guess I just need a version of your FFB2 to Combat Stick adapter where the FFB2 part of the shaft is 30mm instead of 120mm (given the Combat Stick shaft is the same as the Fighter Stick). Can you do that? EDIT: Whipped one up in Fusion 360. Was easier than I thought it would be. Going to bug a buddy of mine to print it. My new year's resolution is to buy a 3D printer, they're so cool!

Too bad I didn't find one of the hundred posts when I read through about 65 pages of posts in the two VR threads. There may have been 100 mentions of "the debug tool" in those threads, but not one single explanation of what that was or where to download it (and I searched). Anyway I figured it out and it wouldn't hurt in the weeks before the VR tab is added to the options menu to sticky a thread telling people to go to the Oculus website and download the Oculus SDK which contains the Oculus Debug Tool which has the Pixel Density setting in it. Not even Wags in his video mentioned where to get the damn thing! /Rant over

What is the debug tool? I'd like to adjust pixel density but I don't have a VR tab in my build. I have a CV1 and am running 2.0.2.52608. What am I missing? EDIT: Nevermind, I figured it out eventually. It's the Oculus Debug Tool https://developer.oculus.com/documentation/pcsdk/latest/concepts/dg-debug-tool/

LEDs don't use resistance to lower the lighting output, but rather they use Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) which basically is just turning the LED on and off so rapidly that they just appear dimmer. It's not as simple as just adding a potentiometer unless that pot is connected to the analog input of an arduino or other circuit that decides how quickly to blink the LEDs. Easiest course of action: use the TARGET software to do it. Coolest and most difficult: keep the lights turned all the way up in TARGET and add an internal circuit and a knob to your warthog throttle that will blink the LEDs according to the position of the knob.

I think you're on the right track. Like you I used an Ikea chair. I built this mount out of MDF to hold the joystick onto the chair: I just used 1" wood screws to hold the mount securely onto the bottom of the seat. No need to ruin the upholstery of the chair. Unfortunately this looks like it won't work for you because of the tension knob at the bottom. Also, my Ikea chair has four bolts on the sides that hold the backrest to the chair which I used to mount a panel box on the left side. I got some slightly longer ones at the hardware store, they're a standard imperial size if I recall correctly. It was pretty easy to do, just build a box that's 6.1" wide (the throttle is .1" wider at the bottom than the top) and use the removed armrest as a template to drill the holes for the mounting bolts. Mine is pretty sturdy because there's 4 bolts total (2 on the side of the seat, 2 on the side of the backrest). They hold the backrest very securely and don't feel like they're going to break or anything. The stick is very comfortable and natural feeling where it is, it's just a little hard to remove. At first I would remove the stick from the base, but lately I've been unscrewing it and taking it off between flying sessions. Sometimes I just leave it attached and lower the seat and just stand up to clear the stick. I have a couple pieces of MDF screwed in under the seat as runners to guide and hold the mount in place so I screw it in using the same holes every time.

Everyone who tries one is absolutely blown away by the thing, even the hardest of skeptics.