EightyDuce

Might be a good time to grab some RAM, especially for AM5. Looks like a solid 32gb 6000 CL32 (can likely be brought down to CL28-30) can be had for under $150 and a 64Gb kit for $310. Prices have been on a steady decline over the last few months. We're basically in high-end (or lower) DDR4 territory. Newegg has also been running more and more "sales" on AM5 boards in the 240-270 range on B650E. Things seem to be looking up. PC Partspicker

I haven't looked at DCS-specific for 3070 VS 4080, but looking at HWUB 4K 12 game average, 4080 is 1.5X performance of 3080 and 2X better than 3070. Again, that's on average.

4070ti's aren't exactly flying off of the shelves. Sadly, we're still waiting for someone to put their money forward and give it a shot. While arguably a better "value" than a 4080 when it comes to 2D gaming, memory capacity and bus width are significant arrow to the knee for this card when it comes to VR.

"Decent frames" is subjective. That being said, 4080 will on average be 2x faster than a 3070.

Sir, first of all, it is always a pleasure to see you come down from the heavens and impart some worldly tech knowledge on us mere peasants. Now, it's a bit hard to follow your augments as you typically seem to take any disagreement with you as a personal attack then go on a disjointed tirade, but let's try to take this piece by piece. I do apologize in advance if I'm misunderstanding some of your ramblings as English is not my first language. Since you like to quote AMD (see pretty pictures below),there is the info from the horses mouth regarding their own CPUs so they should know best right (if you can believe their marketing at this point)? According to AMD marketing, Zen4 X3D brings 21%-30% uplift in gaming-performance from 5800X3D. null Let's be honest here, Zen wasn't DESIGNED to be speed limited by their memory controller/IF; it's not like engineers went, you know fellas, I know we can hit 4400 on our memory controller, but lets cap it 3200-3600. It was a compromise, which left them favoring latency because they knew they wouldn't be able to hit the speeds... and that's fine, the performance is there in the end. But as you mentioned, going outside of the limits wont help as you will have to downclock your RAM. Which brings us to the next point of going for 3600 CL14 memory to add to a EOL platform (still capable). Not really sure who died and made you the RAM King to decide what people need or don't, but DCS will handily take more than 32Gb of RAM. Then, and this is where it's fairly evident that you're a bit out of your depth but still decided to jump in, while speed plays a role in performance, so does the capacity. What happens when RAM needs overflow available RAM, that data goes into the Page File, which is stored on your HDD/SSD/NVME drive...all of which are significantly slower than RAM (performance hit). DDR5 has come down in price significantly, to the point where it makes little to no sense in buying DDR4 if you are building a new system. While the latency of DDR5 isn't as low as something B.die (28 vs 14), it's an apples to hotdogs comparison as the sheer speed of DDR5 is nearly 2X that of DDR4. If we ever see CL14 on DDR5 it won't be in the near future, but one thing is for sure, DDR4 won't ever see 6200/6400Mhz. Lastly let's look at the value aspect. At this point building a new system and going for older gen doesn't make sense, if you're doing a drop-in replacement I understand. Quality DDR4 3600 CL14 RAM which you love (in the US) will run you $200-$600 for 32Gb-64Gb packs. (https://pcpartpicker.com/products/memory/#b=ddr4&S=3600&Z=32768002,32768004,65536002,65536004&L=25,140&sort=price&page=1). 5800X3D will be $350ish, motherboard $150-ish... that's in the ballpark of $700-$1000 for RAM+CPU+MOBO which are end of life and won't be re-used unless you continue to use old hardware. 7700X (sells for $350 right now), 32Gb DDR5 6000/6400 CL32/30 that can easily be tuned to CL28 (https://pcpartpicker.com/products/memory/#b=ddr5&Z=32768002,65536002&L=280,320&S=6000,6400) is $197-250 and 64Gb packs are $350-400, a solid B650 motherboard is $250. So for $800-1000 you can have a system that will mostly trade blows with 5800X3D in gaming (beat it sometimes) and outright beat it out in productivity while providing you with years of upgrades. If you throw the 7800X3D into the mix, I would "expect" the price to be in the $450 range, so for $900-1100 that will handily hand 5800X3D it's 3rd-point-of-contact while costing $200 more? PS: I know you get a tingle in your undies when you see AMD and RAM used in the same sentence, but CL14 vs. what you call "unoptimized" CL16 isn't going to cause some performance-crippling effect on your gaming...the performance delta, on a good day is around 5%.

TLDR most cards have a sketchy background (mining OP). That's the danger of buying used cards from a sketch source, especially whwre they are run ragged as they would be in a mining rig.

I think it should be mentioned that "good VR performance" is very subjective. As an example, I came from a 1080ti on a Reverb G2. While I could play in VR, I would personally not call it "good" as I had to turn down the eye candy and it still wasn't super smooth. Acceptable, maybe. I 'm on a 4090 now, most settings on High, clouds Ultra, 2xAA and I'm locked at 45fps with reprojection, buttery smooth. To me, that is good VR. So yeah, you don't need a 4090, but it will depend on what you consider acceptable/good.

After getting a 4090 and finally being able to enjoy VR, I needed a way to keep everything secured while bumping aorund blindly looking for buttons. The throttle and stick weren't going anywhere being on monstertech mounts. The issue was the Cougar MFDs. While they do have some weight, I still had to be careful reaching for them as to nit knock them back or push them out of position. I also wanted to have them be easy to move when I'm not playing. I typically move my stick monstertech mount to the side when not in use, so I figured why not attach the MFDs to the stock mount... So after some time in Fusion360 and some test prints...this is where I landed. I know monstertech sells the mounts, but for the cost of my an hour or two of my time plus a few bucks in ABS filament, I figured why not. Plus I wanted to keep as much of the hardware stock incase I ever sold it. Turned out much better than expected and I'm already in Rev 3 (printing now) , adding some cable management and structural reinforcement for increased rigidity. Now I can bump around blindly without fear of knocking them around. Plus from my seating position I'm 80 percent there as far as blind/natural reach position for the buttons. May have to adjust the model to push them slightly farther apart. But yeah... We live in a fantastic age.

Never even heard of that. So unless it's checked by default, probably not. Is that in DCS or target? Disregard, I found it. It was indeed the solution. THANK YOU!!!

After years on a TWCS throttle (very good for the money), I picked up a warthog throttle. I've been fiddling with it for a day now and love it, but I haven't been able to figure this part out and not sure if that's how it's done or if I messed up the keybind. What I want to do is on engine start (R/Lshift +Home) , to take the from all the way back (off idle), pull up and move forward to idle to continue engine start. As it stands now, I have to move from off idle, lift up, to idle, then move back off idle and back to idle in order for the game to see the command. Alternatively, if I start the game with throttle at idle, I have to move it all the way back then back to idle to for Dcs to see the throttle input. Hope that makes sense. Engine shutdown works as it should in one step, pull up and move to off idle to shutdown. My question is, is it possible to start with throttle in off-idle position, then lift up and move to idle to continue with engine start, without having to essentially cycle he throttle. Thanks!

To be honest, you will need to decide whether you want 1080p maxed out (without too much overshoot) or VR before anyone can make a serious recommendation, right now your requirements cover the whole spectrum. There is a substantial gap between the two setups. Now, if you're looking to spend some money on a VR setup, it will play 1080p maxed out; however, a 1080p setup will get you a subpar VR experience.

Did you get the throttle only or the throttle and stick package? Mine was throttle only.

Just a heads up, the throttle only warthog I just received from BH Photo has the old super sensitive nipple and not the new mini-stick. Wonder if TM sells the new switch as a "replacement part" and if it would be cheaper than aftermarket from Delta.

You would likely know better than me. Just passing along information as I don't have the time, background, tools to do the testing to corroborate or disprove their findings.

Just be careful how you mount the radiators in relation to the pump/coldplate. Technical explanation: As much as I dislike this guy most of the time, this is a pretty good TLDR version:

I just got a 4090 last week, coming from a 7700K overclocked, 16Gb of RAM, and a 1080ti in a custom loop. My performance is roughly 2-3 times that what it was on a 1080ti with a reverb G2. I'm running with reprojection on and Unlocked. For the most part I'm in the 45FPS reprojection range and butter smooth. On the supercarrier with a loaded deck and looking at the superstructure it drops me into 30fps reprojection still pretty smooth; that's the lowest FPS I've seen since the switch. 90% of the time I'm in butter smooth 45fps reprojection, with 90 now and then. This is on Open XR, I haven't tried SVR yet since upgrading. I am waiting to see how 7XXX X3D chips pan out before I make the decision to go that route or intel. Once things get busy more units are involved I do become CPU limited.

I'd you ever get it? If so, how do you like it. Was looking for something exactly like this, or building one myself for VR purposes.

Has a cause for this issue ever been determined? I just ordered the throttle and came across this and the other bricked thread (haven't gone over the entirety of it). I guess what I'm getting at, should a preventative step be taken and if so is there a consensus on what it is? I thought about using a powered hub but instead of the plug that comes with it hook it up to a varia ke 5v PSU and dial it down to 4.5v. Or use an online DC step-down buck converted and drop 5v down to 4.5.

I did some diggin by came up emptyhanded. Glad they got you sorted. Wish they could provide a manufacturer part number, not like they're making a ton of money on the parts.

Does the pot have any identifying information on it?rsther than relying on visual appearance.

It's fairly popular in the VR section. I used it for a while, but switched back to doing without after switching to a swivel chair where I can pan ever so slightly which gets me plenty of range of motion. Those who do a lot of dogfighting in MP I can see where popularity is, cause you're definitely cranking your necks alot.

If it's working now, it will keep wokring... Until it doesn't. Unless they figure how to get the man paid or if someone else picks up the mantle.

Its a solid 1440p card, though arguably not at the current price. At 4K it begins to take a hit due to bandwith/bus width.

Interesting. I've seen a few of this guys videos in the past, he does some wild repair videos. Definitely knows his way a round a GPU, honestly, electronics in general.

Probably, yes. My only reservation would be if windows tried to install drivers for it. But if you did the fresh install it's probably fine.