Red Yeti

I'm sorry. I'm currently enjoying the summer with outdoor activities in my free time. If the weather is bad again, I could make a video with the most important steps. But that could take a few more weeks (or months).

Hi Aapje, thanks for the feedback. That gives me hope that the repair will last a little longer.

Attention! I am not an electrician and this is not a repair manual but documents my procedure. The battery in my UTC II died and I could only use it via the USB cable. Which was very annoying. Since I had nothing to lose, I carefully cut open the housing with a Dremel tool without damaging the battery underneath. Then I cut off the two cables from the old battery. I couldn't find a battery of the same type, so I simply ordered a 3.7V 950mAh LiPo from Amazon for 7.99€. https://www.amazon.de/dp/B0F594R2MB?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1 I cut off the connector on the new battery and soldered it to the cables from the old battery. Black to black and red to red. The UTC has now been working for three weeks without any problems and can be charged as usual via the USB port. As the new battery is smaller than the original, it has to be recharged after about 8 hours of use. I have printed a shell for the housing and attached it with adhesive tape. So if the battery needs to be replaced again, opening it is no longer such a big effort. As I don't trust the cheap battery or my electronics skills, the whole thing is stored in a metal container when not in use. Perhaps someone here knows more about electronics and batteries than I do and can tell me whether my repair attempt is faulty?

Thank you for your interest. Unfortunately, I only have a small manual Chinese bench mill and bench lathe with a low metal cutting volume. I think it would be a very boring video to watch of the same steps over and over again.

I don't want to push after almost one and a half years, but how good are the chances that the bug will be fixed before BS 4.0? It's a lot of fun when you sneak up on the target in MP for 20 minutes and then just watch the Shkval start playing ping pong.

I don't know if I'm interpreting the smiley correctly, but thank you.

I couldn't find anything suitable made of metal. So the only option was to make it myself. The alternative would be to have it 3D printed from aluminium, like _BringTheReign_ did, I think.

Wie bereits schon geschrieben, wird vermutlich die Platine defekt sein. Wenn du jeamanden kennst, der einen Reflowofen hat dann könntest du versuchen die Platine kurz backen zu lassen. Hat bei mir gut funktioniert.

I finally finished my handle today. It wasn't that expensive at around €50 for the materials. It was also a lot of fun (except for the soldering! I don't like that at all!) I turned and milled the tube and the nut out of aluminum in the hope that it would withstand the FFB forces. Nice tinkering project. Thanks for sharing the files!

Probably a stupid question but: How do you print the housing of the trigger? When I try to remove the supports, I tear the two ‘nests’ of the buttons with them.

Wow! I didn't expect such a quick response. Thank you very much!

Hello @_BringTheReign_ I also want to print the cool B8 handle and have loaded the new version 2.5. I noticed that the handle has 4 holes for attaching the insert. But there is only one hole in the insert itself. Have I loaded the wrong file?

I don't have the Sinai map (yet). But the videos are really good. It helps me a lot to refresh my memories. Thank you!

STFU & GTFO then?

Похоже, что выключатель используется для отключения всех ламп путем отсоединения земли. https://www.deutscheluftwaffe.de/fl-32526-vierlampengeraet-1944

The reason why such extensions are not available is simply that the pipes cannot be bent in such tight radii. Especially the end piece to which the stick is attached. This then has to be welded which would increase both the effort and the price. I am looking for a similar extension but I will probably have to make it myself. The version from propeler is good but I don't like the look so much.

I just played the mission with the BS2 a few days ago and it took me a few tries as well. I had to ambush the first helicopter and fight it with two Vikhrs. When the second helicopter noticed me and flew towards me, I had to switch to AA and HeadOn, otherwise the Vikhrs would miss. If the second helicopter was too close, I had to turn round and run until some distance was built up.

According to ancient Mayan prophecies, it will be possible to fly the reworked MiG 21 BIS in Half Life 3.

Das sieht gut aus. Ist das Gehäuse aus Metall?

Which joystick handles can withstand the higher forces? Are there any experiences or recommendations for or against a certain grip?

I like the square buttons with transparent caps that VirPil uses on the SharKa50. The tactile feel and feedback when pressing them are excellent. I’d like to use them on a DIY control panel. Does anyone know what type of buttons these are and where they can be purchased?

I'm sorry. I don't know how to implement this without additional software (AutoHotkey or similar).

I'm not sure if I understand you correctly. Do you want to switch between the modes with a push button?

I also noticed the following: If I set the weapon mode to manual and activate the Igla (countdown is running), the Igla does not acquire any target. If I set the switch to auto mode (and back to manual mode) then the target is immediately acquired. Igla weap man mode.trk

Is there any news on this? I keep wasting Iglas with this combination. And the missing gunsight doesn't make aiming any easier.