Duckling

Thanks guys. Love to read all great projects that are posted here and like to contribute where possible. I'll be back with a cry for help when it's time to connect the stuff with DCS :-) Gus

Hi Rockme. Checkup the subject on viperpits if not made already. Considered as a pricy (high cost versus the functions and quality (but ofcorse a fastway to get the build started). Depending on your wallet,interest and effort willing to spend you got several other options. (disregard if this is old news ;-) cheers gus edit: http://www.viperpits.org/smf/index.php?topic=317.0 got no personal experience with the companys products though)

Those panels looking great :thumbup: and same goes for the paint box. Normaly I wait for a less windy day and make the paintjob outside but results is less then good. Bought an Arduino from eBay (together with some tutorials) some weeks back but haven't yet started it up. Target is to use it to interface with the engine instrument air-core (when and if I get there). Future will tell. Looking forward to see your progress. More pics please :-) /Gus

Thanks guys Sorry, not for sale :-) but template created are for free Highest cost were the baseplate and the waffle overlay (1.5 mm Alu) cut with a waterjet CNC, cost incl cut were something around 15-20$ if I remember correct). Middle section is PVC 5 mm cut bt hand, say 2$, 98 LED (8$), Electronics, connectors, cabling aprox 20$. The devider between the indicator as a rubber tube (donno the correct word here, used for seal between window frame and the glas) Diffusers are 3 mm Acryl sanded, cut and painted with black ink pen around the edges added a link to the schematics of the homemade PCB. in first post above Cheers Gus

Hi guys. After "sometime" of soldering nightmares, the Warning Quadrant is finally operational PCB based on Mike Powells design outlined in his latest book (thanks Mike) Dual high intence green LED in serie driven by a 12V source through an ULN2803A. Each indicator triggered by a OICard Mastercard 5V output. Should be able to drive the real thing or any likewise uptil 50V per indicator. White DILs are resistors. PCB Schematics here Indicators "faceplate" is a three layers OH film 1200 dpi color laserprintout Note that top pic was taken without a flash. The light bleed showing is much lighter then in reality but.. it shows that the glue used had resolved the toner somewhat I might redo it in the future though. Best combination I found with the LED intencity was two with green text on top and the bottom copy with "white" letters. Font used is MS 33558 truetype font created by Derek Higgs on simpits.com (my complements to the creator) Some pics of setup and cabling fuzz cheers Gus

Thanks Feed. Just the thing I was looking for Now it's back to the drawing board (again :-)

Quiz relates to both In/Output section and the Pit section but since the topic is focused on the Pit, I try it here :-) Has anyone made any attempt to disassamble the base or remove the metal frame from the sides ? The "why" is ofcouse to place it like the real quad. I have a hunch the innerframe of the base is kinda solid (like a box) very much like the real throttle (that is bolted on the Dzuz rails not from top but from front/aft). Removing the sides would allow it to slip in place within existing frame I got. I haven't had the guts yet to start up the drill :cry: Cheers Gus

:thumbup:Hey Feed. that pan sure looks good. Seems allmost zero tolerance to fit the switches judging from the pic. Great start

Hi Wrilay. Panels looking good. :thumbup: A question. I see from your pics above that they are drawn as baseplate + lightpanel. The panel produced looks like a "baseplate" only. Is it a test or you modified first idea of some reason ? I've had my eyes on a homemade CNC setup but haven't came close to it yet. Has the "altered" plans something to do with any limitation of the precision of the CNC ? Cheers Gus

:yay:Hey SuBur, Awesome build. A Sim Sauna comming true :-) Beautiful

You can count me out there ;-) I figured they gonna clime sky high but not to this extreme. I were wrong also about what Quad would "win".

Hi guys If you haven't seen these already.. Feathers has some goodies listed http://cgi.ebay.com/A-10-FLIGHT-CONTROL-BOX-trainer-sim-/300507829842?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item45f7a99652 http://cgi.ebay.com/A-10-INT-EXT-LIGHT-CONTROL-BOX-trainer-sim-/300507829870?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item45f7a9966e Cheers and Merry Christmas /Gus

Well done Rocketeer. Congrats to this guide also. Very well described approach and result Gus

Super, very greatfull your shared these

Might be a bit off topic but.. The real ILS I got (haven't verified the frequency span versus DCS yet) left frq knob flips between the three leftmost digits from 108-109-110-111 (4 positions, all in a aprox 100 degrees angle (not possible to rotate this 360+ that is). Right freq knob has a 360+ movment and swaps the 2 -RIGHT- most digits between 10-15-30-35-50-55-70-75-90-95- Note that this ILS comes from a Viper as far I know. Added some pics of the interior of it at... http://www.strandedduckling.com/html/quad_ref.html#QUADRefILS Regardless though. I'll go with gray encoders in my Quad :-) Edit: A typo above (and..Junior descided to upgrade his WoW installation yesterday. Allmost blocked access to Internet, access to the link will be aviable now :-)

Sorry. no idea, connecting sets of three pins on a 8 pos toggle sounds like there's one pin less existing then needed. Hopfully someone here that can give a hint Why go for a 45 degree switch instead of an 12 pos 30 degree ? Just curoius, the 8 pos is normaly more expensive then the 12 pos. Will mean also more 'twisting' to get the value of choice Cheers

check http://www.opencockpits.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=FAQ&file=index&myfaq=yes&id_cat=4&categories=IOCards and the note about to connect a simulated encoder. I have the wiring diagram somewhere but failed to find it. (I haven't tried this myself though)

Sorry. What I ment to say is that the software driver from ThrustMaster will allow you to reconfigure the angle of up/dwn for example. i.e. you can twist the base say 10 degrees left while maintain a the original control axis of the stick. (i.e. twisted base then wount not affect roll rate when pushing the stick straight forward).

No. not only. My self I placed quick & Dirty pots in my Homemade Intercom qaud but this more to have something to stick the knobs on :-). Remember that was pre 10C introduction. Had the idea at the time to use add volume adjustment for my PC sound system to the "master" volume position but still pending. The pros for gray encoders is that low cost and rather easy to control a value in SIOC, were you have to put some energy into make the same for the pots. Encoders with a built in switch can be used instead of the pull-to-activate. Depending on feutures implemented in the 10C when it goes Gold I might have to reconsider again

Agree with you racoon. Real stick handle is twisted 13-15 degrees (can't remember the exact figure and missplaced my procractor) to the left. The angle 'forward' is allmost identical to the TM Hog, at least what I can feel. Turning the TM Hog though is no problem. TM SW enable you to change the handles degree versus from / back movement in the base. Just a matter of adjusting either the baseplate with new holes or build your own equivelent. (no disrespect intended for Hannibals construction here, just a general observation) Cheers Gus

pots on the real inter panel moves aprox 300 degrees min-max. They're activated in the 'pulled' position. If used/enabled in the sim now or later and intended to connect to OC i'd think encoders would be the best option but kinda hard to pull though ;-) Reason is they take 2 inputs on the mastercards (of the many) but a pot requires an A/D port. There are a few on the expansion and some of the add-on boards but kinda sparse.

NISE work Y2kiah :-) Looks VERY promising. I have to make a recap on Aurdino system to try to grasp the possibilities. Seems you just carved out quite a bit of the sim interface market just now. This will be a blockbuster application. Cheers Gus

Can't agree more :-) Draw me (almost) mad in the process trying to wire these with a perf board. I made this instead. Not the most perfect work but it saved a lot of frustration. Might be of some use. It covers the UHF, VHF and Tape indicators. The last is no use in C model though. Top left is UHF, Bottom left is two VHF's and top right is the frequency indicators for the VHFs I uploaded the Eagle Cad files and a clean .pdf on http://www.strandedduckling.com/html/interfacing.html cheers Gus

Checkout http://www.ejectionsite.com/frame_sg.htm for some of this info Ping Deadman to buy a copy of the ACESII tech manual (well worth it) For the angles, can't say for sure. I'll set my seat on the base of a elec controlled car seat ;-) to enable some adjustments

Great progress Rocketeer. It's comming together beautifully Gus