Lausbub78

The former Saitek throttle quadrants ,now distributed by Logitech,could be what you are looking for. When they where still sold by Saitek there where a bit of hit and miss,quality wise. I don't know about Logitechs quality. CH Products has a similar system,but with 6 levers with shorter travel than Saiteks.

What about a plane around that seat. :thumbup: It looks excellent.

Ah,didn't know that :thumbup:

Shouldn't it be "Waagerecht"?

SVmapper can see only the first 4 controllers,something I forgot to mention earlier. So if you have Stick,throttle and pedals as No. 1,2,3 then it could be difficult to have more than 1 box. I think the device limit is higher with JoytoKey,but I'm no expert.

To make use of On/Off toggle switches you could also use a keymapper,like SVmapper or JoytoKey, where key commands can be configured for the Off position.

I was in the same boat as you,when I started my first buttonbox. I didn't want to solder anything because I thought it would be difficult and take longer etc. So I searched for switches and buttons with screw terminals or push in terminals (not sure about the correct term). But I had to add a connector to every damn wire using a grimping tool. On my next project I used soldering connections,and after a few tries it went a lot faster than with the other method. If difficulty is your concern, I would advice to give soldering a fair try atleast. Now I prefer it over anything else,atleast for wiring switches. Soldering wires to some small conectors of a PCB may be more difficult though,in this case I used Bodnar boards too.

I had something similar happen some years ago,turned out the PSU was faulty.

I had the Multi switch Panel. It worked with any sim I have tried,it's seen by Windows as a standard Joystick. In Windows it's always Device 1,so your controller list may change. The case was metal,but those buttons and rotaries felt cheap. Everything worked fine though. I'd rate the product as "Ok" at best. It had blue Backlighting which could not be adjusted or even switched off. Edit: You could also check those DSD Button boxes http://www.derekspearedesigns.com/index.html they look like more of a quality product in different configurations.

I only use socks,or when it is hot in summer with bare feet. Never had a problem with it.

From memory 5 has a very soft center and force increases to the end of travel,while either 4 or 6 has a noticable center and the other has also a soft center and froce doesn't increase much to the end of travel. I believe there is some FAQ at the Crosswind site explaining the difference of the CAMs Edit: Here is the link to the FAQ http://mfg.simundza.com/assets/downloads/CAM%20Presentation.pdf

I'm using the strongest Spring Setting and CAM 5 for about 4 Years now.

I have had my Warthog setup for a bit over 4 years under heavy use until I replaced it. For me it has been very reliable,never had a button or anything else that stopped working. Biggest issue I had was with the stiction,in my unit there was almost no grease inside, what was there was almost tried up. I had to disassemble the stick and apply new grease. There are several how-to's out there and I advice to be very carefully when re assembling it. I snapped some wires in the process which was a real pain to fix. I advice to also get one of those extensions,I've used a ca. 10cm one since the beginning. It is a must in my opinion. Never had any issues with the Throttle unit. I can not fully recommend the Stick because of the stiction, go for it only if you are willing to fix it yourself,if necessary. That said,not everyone seems to have the stiction on their unit,seems like a game of hit and miss....

You just have to connect everything you like to the board. The Board is plug and play with USB. Just remember the Board supports 32 Buttons,1 POV hat and 8 Axis. Your Throttle will be seen as Standard Game Controller by Windows. Every Game that makes use of Joysticks will see the controler aswell. I might add,the Board is pretty large ca. 12cm x 5cm ,it will not fit into the Grip. You have to find a way to route the wires from the grip to some kind of box which contains the Controler Board.

I use a BU0836X in my Throttle unit,no problems with conecting buttons and axis to it. It's pretty much straight forward and easy to use. I have no experience with other controler boards, but I imagine they would work well too.

As far as I know only new Footrests in "Combat Style" will be made. They can be swapped out with the current ones.

Yes,that is also a concern. I guess there is no easy solution. Someone did disassemble the whole gimbal,sanded it with wet sanding paper to make the parts really smooth and regreased it. Would still be the same plastic parts though. I have had my Warthog for over 4 years,never had troubles with the gimbal except beeing sticky. I was using an extension for the whole 4 years and it never broke. It had some heavy beating at times,I'm still confused why it lasted that long :o) Retired it for other reasons,still have it as a back up stick.

Maybe some kind of plastic,like POM or PTFE, would work. It is pretty strong and has almost no friction. Though I believe it is expensive. Edit: I just saw your edited post,regarding doing the whole thing in aluminium. Please don't, aluminium rubbing on aluminium is pretty bad. It may feel smooth for a short while,but after a rather short time you will experience a lot of friction. Aluminium is not good for gliding parts. Maybe if the parts where polished , but even a small and hard to see chip will make troubles later. Maybe it is enough to just replace those pins with brass or something else and see how it works?

I would advice against steel. Not only because of magnetic ,it's just not optimal when steel parts rub at each other. You would need some kind of lube . You could use Brass,it as less friction than steel on steel and you would not need lube. And the magnetism isn't a problem anmyore aswell. Hm , on another note,it may be a problem when Brass or steel dust ,which could come over time from little bit of wear, gets on the electronics somehow...

Try to loosen the black screws a bit that holds the white ring down.

I own and use a BRD-DS since almost a year, best stick I have ever used. I ordered the KG13 grip in addition, and it is excellent. My experience was exactly the same as yours. Baur is a great guy,always helpful and reliable.

You propably mean this https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=179594

I'm using the "small brother" of the BRD-N, the BRD-DS since May 2016. It is an incredible piece of Hardware. I've considered to maybe get the BRD-N at a later point.

Do you mean the shaft of the microstick? It is 2mm x 1.2mm it sticks out around 7mm. The pcb where the whole thing sits on is 28mm x 25mm and the housing is around 20mm x 20mm and 12mm tall.

The shaft has 6mm diameter, the housing of the pot has roughly 16mm diameter.