romeokilo

Looking at my design on paper it should work. Just waiting on the eBay shocks to arrive so I can prototype. Does anyone know if the A10 ACES arming lever has a safety pin in it like the F16? I'll probably incorporate one anyway just because it looks cool with a remove before flight streamer in it...

Thanks for the link- great close ups and they explain the mechanics of it well. I'll use the same principle- however hopefully with the smaller RC car shock I should be able to have a rod and spring combined in a much smaller footprint- just hoping they will be strong enough for a nice solid click. If it works I might even try a similar system using the RC car shock for the landing gear lever as well. Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

I've been modding Flims Seat to make it a bit more realistic. Lots of work still to go. Cut out the headrest and bolstering up the seat back. Lots of filling and sanding to go. I'm redesigning the seat arm lever. Cutting it on the laser out of 6mm acrylic so I can play with a mechanism similar to the one above. I've ordered the rear shock absorber from a RC car for cheap on ebay. I'll experiment with that as the mechanism and see how it goes. Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

G'day Burns. Yep still got one thrown on a wall. The single projector is awesome and gives massive wow factor- but the surface you are projecting on is everything. Sim is definately playable as it is, but not perfect. I actuality uninstalled DCS and have been playing Arma 3 on it lots. Back to the pit and DCS now though... I don't regret the move to a single projector. I got a massive performance increase ditching the three monitors I had as well. My plan is to build a curved screen with two, maybe three projectors eventually so I haven't bothered at all with the 'screen' I'm using at the moment. I'd love to have it curved 270 degrees so I can ditch the trackir. Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Nearly a year on figured I should bump this thread so everyone knows I'm still alive and the pit still exists... Shame how photobucket destroyed most of it (and the entire internet). I've deleted my photobucket account completely in disgust. I will try to re upload somewhere else and repair all the pics when get around to it. At home the new workshop is almost complete. The laser is back together and still works- believe it or not I put it all back together and didn't even need to adjust the mirrors at all! On the pit front- I'm beginning to put together a sort of viperpit style bucket for the pit. The Aces seat, floor and rudder pedals stay together as one unit. The sides are on casters and push up against the bucket where they clip on. The main instrument panel bolts on the front of the floor. Idea is I can then make new side consoles and new MIPs which easily swap out. Once the warthog is done a Hornet MIP and side consoles will be next... Putting together Flims seat- I'm trying to work out a way to get the arming lever to snap into the on and off position. Anyone got any ideas?

Great work on that panel. Ive been trying for ages to get the angles on that one right. After a few prototypes I flat out gave up and moved onto other panels instead. Ill buy both of those ones from you once they are ready for sale. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Absolutely awesome!! Needs a nose art pin up girl painted on the outside... Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

I've built them. I tweaked them a little bit but can definitely recommend. Head over to my build thread for more info. http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=160233 I've got the seat as well but haven't started it yet. Real life has got in the way for a few more months before I can get back into the pit.

I had them in my AHCP but ended up removing them. They looked great, but the major flaw is that to feel good when being used they need to be mounted very well. I have an MDF main instrument panel and acrylic panels- no matter how tight it was all bolted down and braced the panels would flex when I pulled out to move the switch. Made the whole thing feel flimsy. If I had a full metal pit I'd put them back in but I'm not made of money... Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Wow. Brilliant! Subscribed. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Absolutely stunning. Well done. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Thanks for the link. Just got six of those (with shipping) for what it would usually cost me to get one in Australia. I love this thread.

Outstanding! Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

No real progress because my time is still taken up with the move and the new house. Im yet to set up my work space in the new garage and the laser is still in peices. Today i roof mounted the single projector and got the pit parked in its new hanger... None of the switches or backlighting (or anything really...) wired up yet. I did play around with helios a little. Started a new profile and got the caution box fully fuctional in the sim. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Looking fantastic! You may have just inspired me to swap out all my bolts for your DZUS replicas... Just a thought- Have you experimented using a solid white panel for the top layer rather than an opaque one? From experience you will be surprised how well LED strip will backlight it and the lettering will be much more vibrant when not backlit. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Panel look great! Id be very interested in those Oxygen Regulator Switch Tops... Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Not bad for me! Link? Price? Is that stem PVC or Aluminium tubing?

Moving locations...

Brilliant! Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Another one of my impulse eBay purchases arrived. [emoji1] Obviously not the right one for an A10 but for 25 bucks it should look the part. And looks very easy to convert to a 12V LED with a simple $1 eBay led bulb swap.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/331954780907 Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Huey panel http://www.ebay.com/itm/262599513972 Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

I found the buttons were actually one of the easiest parts to make once I decided to make them as simply as possible. I tried cutting them from one piece of 6mm acrylic and engraving the lip in them with the laser. That worked well but took a much longer amount of time that I and my laser tube do not have. Please note that all the buttons pictured were found in my scrap bin. The ones I have used for the final panels are much cleaner cuts. So I ended up doing them like this- Number 1 is the button top cut out of 3mm Solid White Acrylic. Number 2 is the bottom of the button cut out of 2mm Solid White (I prefer clear for this but i ran out of material and though testing I found that the difference when back lit is negligible) 1 and 2 two get glued together with a solvent cement and painted in grey which result in number 3. Leave the bottom protective layer on when painting to allow back lighting. 4 is the end result. I learned some things on the way- Round buttons should have a square backing to stop them from spinning in the panel- Left is the wrong type- Right is the one I'm replacing them with. My rockers look like this to keep it simple. Remember not to have a lip on these ones so they can actually rock and not be trapped in the panel. Because of that design the back light bleeds around them a little more than normal push buttons. All my buttons in the pit are of the same design and size and are interchangeable. The Panels that require these buttons are built so the lip on the buttons sit in without falling out and back light bleed is minimized. And all I did to engrave each button for the CDU is place them in the panel, put the panel in the laser and engrave the entire CDU in one hit. Took about 15 minutes and one run to have every button for the CDU done. The pit (and the laser) is currently in pieces and all packed up as I am moving into a new house. Good news is the pit will finally be out of the garage and back into the house, in a dedicated room where i can finally start on that curved projector setup! :thumbup:

I rate buydisplay.com highly. I've purchased a few things from them, including the VGA LCD I ended up using for my CDU. I've got one of those 20x2 LCD's, and didn't end up using it as they are MUCH larger I thought. There is just no way to use them and keep the panels at the right width. I'll snap a photo of one of those LCD's and one of the OLED's i am using side by side and edit it into this post later on to explain. That is the exact same as the ones I have- but be warned... I have tried buying from that eBay seller before. Paid in full. I never received it and I got no communication out of them at all. eBay buyer protection didn't either and ended up refunding my money. The manufacturer actually has there own ebay store- wide_hk. As far as i can tell they are not making them in 20x2 anymore, only 16x2.

Unfortunately one of my 20x2 OLEDs is damaged. You can see the line of dead pixels in it. My fault- it fell off my work bench. It seems these things are very hard to find nowadays so I will leave as is for now. I may have to redesign the panel to suit a 16x2 OLED later on if it bugs me too much... Ive decided that i love these OLEDs enough that i will re cut my ILS and TACAN to suit some of the smaller ones. Possible the radios as well depending on how easy the 7 segments connect up... Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk