romeokilo

This thing is starting to get pretty damn cool... Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

They are 6 way electric rails from a late model Ford. Got them from a wrecking yard for $80.

Here is some eye candy. Testing the lighting on the fire handles. Clear front with the text engraved, white panel behind that and then cheap LED strip. I'm getting some stickers printed up so it will have the yellow striping soon.

Got the power distribution sorted. The PSU is in the right console, then there is one large cable that connects the right console to the MIP, then one from the MIP to the left console. So the whole pit is run from one wall power plug. Here is the plugs I'm using for that main cable. Yes I'm aware of the typo but couldn't be bothered re cutting it! Here is the panel I made up behind the LCD in the MIP Here is the right console finally hooked up to the MIP. Fixed the viewports. And roughly set up in my sim room for testing! Now I'm trying to get Helios and DCS BIOS working at the same time. Any hints on that? I'm guessing it's an Export.lua issue. One setback- my CMSP went up in a puff of blue smoke when I connected it to the consoles USB hub. Im not 100% sure what happened- I think the backlight circuit may have shorted out on one of the buttons. It fried the arduino, although I can see no physical damage to it. It seems to be working again now on my test bench with a new arduino... But so did the first one.... I'm just working up the courage to try it back in the pit.

Pit floor painted! Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Cheers lads. Its still a fair way's off flying I think. I've got a lot of work ahead on the left console. Not so much on the MIP so that's up next. Also- i downloaded 2.5 on the sim rig yesterday and have realised my GTX780 doesn't cut it anymore haha. That will need an upgrade. I'll wait for the next gen cards to come out and hope to snap up a 1080ti a bit cheaper. A few points on the seat- Im not happy with wood for the ejection handles, those will be redone in metal. Because your thighs are always up against them they need to feel more realistic. I've already snapped off the manual chute handle getting in and out, back to the drawing board for that as well. I knew it was going to happen, just didn't think it would so quickly! My advice to anyone making a seat is to make the seat back out of a thicker wood, mines only 8mm MDF and it flexes a lot which means the paint cracks. If I did it again I'd do the back in 12 or 16mm. And yep, I'm in Melbourne. Seat is now on the floor. It has since been painted and is drying as we speak. And here is a small change to the landing gear panel. It's the little details that count!

Seat is about 90% complete! Needs the fabric done on the parachute container, as well as seat cushions and belts. I'll probably try my hand a sewing later on... The belt rollers are functional and I left a spot for a car seat belt retractor in there later on if I feel like it. I'll probably only get shoulder straps, just to complete the look. The seat base is a cushion already, however it will get a more realistic looking thin cushion on top. Its not a replica, hence why I included the F16 style bits on it. Flight data recorder (intent is to conceal wireless headphone charging in that), upgraded chute container with the retractable pitot, and the upgraded larger O2 bottle and system. All up its got 6 buttons/switches in it, all connected via a single cat 5 network cable to spare inputs on a Leo Bodnar in the MIP. Last picture is the pit as it sits right now. The seat isn't on its rails yet and the floor isn't in, so it will sit higher than it is now. The MIP wiring and finishing touches are next. Oh also- I started up an instagram account so I can add photos day by day rather than waiting for more progress before updating here Follow @thewarthogproject And a YouTube channel to match with the same name. It's bare at the moment but I'll start uploading videos eventually. Can't wait for that first cold start walk through video!!!

That is correct. Your selected power supply (6V 1amp) will work. Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Not at home at the moment so can't format this post perfectly. From memory Change this cmspUpdn("CMSP_UPDN", 12_A, 11_B); To this cmspUpdn("CMSP_UPDN", 12, 11); Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk Edit- just read the last paragraph of your post. Yes the _A and _B have to be removed. From memory I had problems with the up and down as well. It wasn't a dcs bios problem- I had to change something the the LUA in the game. I'll have a look for you when I get home. Oh and just to completely check hardware first, try compiling it with a different pin and see if that works. I've also had issues with some of the cheapest Chinese arduino clones shorting out if I use pins right next to each other and things like that happening. Strange but I never bothered looking for a solution- I just used pins on opposite side of the pcb.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Messerschmitt-Bf109-Me109-life-size-fibreglass-mold-Man-Cave-Movie-Prop/173115099042?hash=item284e76c7a2:g:u0EAAOSwnsRaZiLW

Oh god no. My wife is not going to be happy. Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

No pics at the moment because its completely disassembled. My projector is roof mounted, pointed right at the track ir camera. Looking at the track ir software in camera view, it does not even register it at all. Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

I use track ir and I've never had any issues with it tracking because of the light from the projector. The only issue is finding somewhere to mount the camera, as it usually sits on top of a monitor. Now it sits on my glare shield, next to the UFC, about at eye level. That was an issue with the ball cap mount, due to the way the IR reflectors are mounted to it, it needs to be above the ball cap looking down somewhat. Its not a problem with the track clip, which I use but don't really want to. I've actually bought one of those 'tacticool operator' multicam ball caps that are covered in excessive amounts of velcro. Plan was to by some 'tacticool' IR reflective IFF tape that has velcro backing, cut it into small squares then stick them on the hat so they are spaced wider apart than the track ir provided ball cap mount. I think that will fix it, but I haven't got my pit running yet so I haven't tested it.

I've got a Benq 1080st+ I use for DCS and I've never noticed any lag. Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

You are a legend. I haven't designed the lever mechanism as yet, so I can make it around what you have already designed. I'll pm you my email. Cheers mate! Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Looks great! I'm very interested in that fuel lever knob on its own. Ive been hunting one, or even a 3D model of one I can get printed for ages. Well done! Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Brilliant. Just recieved mine today. Wow I wish I had this resource before I started building my pit. Get on it people. I just ordered the Modern Hornet Guide as well.... Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

I'm not really sure about the watts either... I know mine is an 850 watt supply, which appears to be overkill for this but I had it laying around so why not. I read the data sheet for it which showed me what the maximum amp on each rail is, which is all I was really interested in. I made sure to keep each circuit well under the max. Checking with a multimeter the backlight circuit for the entire right console draws under 8 amps at full brightness (which it will never be at), so well within limits. It's about half that at the brightness I will use. The left console and MIP will draw less because they have less leds in them. Nothing in the pit is really drawing much power, in fact most of my I/O cards actually get their 5V power via USB straight from the PC. The only thing I was worried about was my electric seat rails, but turns out even they only draw about 7 amps with every motor moving at the same time (which will never actually happen anyway). Having said all the above know this - I'm an amateur and am winging this...

I've got lagging problems with my Helios set up as well. Even on a fresh Windows install, and only Helios and dcs installed I get issues. Never found out how to fix it. Are you using an Nvidia Graphics Card? I figured mine was a driver issue.

Basically yes. I'm using a Computer Power supply to run the whole pit. It's actually a quality one from my old gaming PC - Antec CP850. It has four 12v rails- each can handle 25 amps. All the PC cables were stripped, grouped into each colour, cut to length and end in terminal blocks. Ill take some photos and add them here once the wiring has been tidied up- it's a mess at the moment and looking at it now will just confuse everyone! Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Seat paint finished. Sneak preview.. Next post should be seat complete (minus fabric work) Decals ready to go on Just finishing up the parachute container details and painting the ejection and chute handles.

Seat is getting its detail work before final paint. Its not a replica so a bit of artistic license has been used in the rivet work. Also- it's got an F16 style Flight Data Recorder on it. I'm aware the A10 doesn't have this- but it's there for a reason. Plan is to conceal a wireless charging coil inside! I can hang my headphones on it and charge them! Ignore the top part- the parachute container will cover it all anyway. Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

And another just because I can... Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Both consoles construction and paint finished. The seat is up next for final paint and detail. Starting to wire the left console now. Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

PSU and wiring for backlight, floodlights and I/O cards done. Intent was to make my own replica grimes floodlights- It's on my list but I'll do it later on. I'm using cheap ebay 'motorbike number plate light posts' for now. Works well. The emergency flood light switch works as well, bypassing the dimmer. More detailed photos to come once I tidy up the wiring. Excuse these ones- hard to photograph. Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk