Triggerhappy69

kA-50 Pedals drawings continue And here is the Pdf file: Ka-50 Pedal Center Side Right.PDF And here is the Pdf file: KA-50 Pedal Bottom Plate.PDF

I got arround to making the new back walls for the pit yesterday..! Now the Collective is 100% free of play, and the back walls are made out of MDF. MDF has a much finer surface, and is more easy to make details in with a router.. And as you maght notice I have cut out holes for the Fans so they don't protrude from the front like before.. Now I just have to scetch up the details, and cut out holes for the panels on the right side rear wall, and then it's time to paint and re-assemble it..!

Coming right up mate..! :thumbup: I'll be back home tomorrow. and I'll send the files over to you. ;)

Ka-50 Rudder Pedal Drawings Part 1 Almost done now Cat.. Would you look'em over for me? Naturally the mechanics will be added as soon as I get it in house..:music_whistling: And the PDF-File is here: [ATTACH]23554[/ATTACH] And the PDF-File is here: Ka-50 Pedals Cross Bar and Center Hub.PDF And the PDF-File is here: Ka-50 Pedal Footrest Sandwich layers.PDF And the PDF-File is here: Ka-50 Pedal Footrest Sandwich Layers 02.PDF And the PDF-File is here: Ka-50 Pedal Footrest Sides.PDF Are these do-able? Could you build the Pedals from these, or do you want me to change them/add more info? I mean, I made the Pedals simultaniously as making the drawings, so your input is welcome..:thumbup:

I'll see if I get it over to you later tonight...,:thumbup:

You still need my drawings of the pedals mate? They are done now..!

No Problem Mate.. I'll send the drawings I have over ASAP..

I GIVE UP..! :cry: I just can't seem to be able to get the dampener cylinders completly sealed. And after what can only be described as near-death frustrating weeks I have chucked the whole system in the bin..! If I made a couple of more prototypes, refining the procedure as I webt along. It would guaranteed work.. But I want to start using my Collective NOW..! So I did a one-eighty-turn and got me a couple of these: They are Air actuators (douple action ones). So with these, a 12V solenoid valve and a oneway valve to top up the preasure in the system every now and then (maybe a fillervalve from a car or MC), I will have a Rotorbrake that works 100%.. Here is my initial plan. Loose all the bothersome mechanics and boxes. Use the doubleaction cyclynder and Solenoid valve (blue thingie above it to the right) And the setup looks cleaner. Has no play at all, and (fingers crossed) it works with little or no maintanance.. The Solenoid Valve. .. ready for your close-up Mr. Double Action..? Tonights building result.. That being said most of the night was spent designing and making sure I had all the dimesions right before cutting and sanding).:pilotfly: And since everything is fixed to the same point now, I should get rid of all play.. Naturally I use ball bearings on all moving parts.. ROTOR GOVERNOR HANDLE: Well I think the pictures speak for themselves. I redesigned this whole thing mainly because may initial design was not like the original. But also I found that it felt to "flimsy" and needed to be tightened up..! .. Pull handle out to release.. ..like this.. .. Set new position.. .. release, and it locks into place.. And the whole procedure from the other side: .. Lift handle to release.. .. set to new posision. The inner plate releases one microswitch and activates the next one.. .. And release to lock in new posision.. Naturally there is a spring missing in the drawings.. mainly because drawing coiled springs from scratch in 3D is more work than it's worth.. But you get the idea right?

TWO CENTS...? That Setup is a LOT more than two cents if you ask me..:thumbup:

This find is a GEM..! Am i mistaken if I say that this would serve as a way to edit direct inputs between several DirectX devices and DCS/BS..? For all of us that use more than one joystick controller? And could eliminate the need for additional software like SIOC and such? If so, could someone please make a translation to english and give the guy who came up with this a HUGH CIGAR..! Because that would mean that we can cut short a lot of hours in our pitbuilding projects.. GOOD FIND..!

It's Christmas, and after all that food and good wine seeing this just makes my eyes water over.. And I have to say I like your approach to building the pedals.. I REALLY like it:thumbup:

I is done my friend.. :music_whistling:

Are U running the Force Feedback software? I am running in a Windows XP Pro enviroment, and I actually had to search for the software and install it by force to get XP to accept it. Now I have the options of FFB Strengh and Return Spring Force.. PM me and I can send you the software.. MSFFB2 has a sensor in the stick handle that can detect if your hand is on the stick or not. If you let go of the stick it automaticly disables the force feedback motors and the stick feels "dead"..

LMAO :thumbup:... I see your point mate.. I have added some HUGE heatsinks to each H-Bridge allready. And put a rather big 220V fan inside the cabinet (stolen from a discarded microwave oven) to keep it cool.. Are you saying that You think it might be possible to have steppermotors instead of DC Motors? If so I think that would be the first time I have seen that in use.. Actually I am hoping that is what you mean, simply because it would be cool..! Ps. Dont forget to resend the email mate;)

:cry:... okei.... (walking backwards while twirling my hat in my hands in shame) LoL

I found some info on how to use toggle switches where as a push-button for connecting to cards like Leo Bodnars or Opencockpits USB Axis card. The Problem All simulators have understandably been designed to work with a standard keyboard, meaning they want momentary contacts to switch things (you press a key and then let it go, giving the sim only a short pulse telling it to do something). The big problem here is that toggle switches don't work the same way. They are meant for the real world, where you don't want something momentarily on and then off again, but either on OR off. In other words, toggle switches use permanent contacts. So if you were to hookup a bunch of toggle switches to a keyboard card and try to use them with your simulator, this would result in a key repeat which is definitely not what we want (flying around with your landing light going like a party stroboscope is probably not legal!). The Solution So what can we do about this? Well, this simple circuit does the trick. Basically what it does is send a momentary contact to the keyboard card, even though all you see on your panel is a toggle switch. To understand how it does this, I will first explain some basic facts about the components used. If you happen to know all about this already, you may skip the next section. What almost everyone knows is that a capacitor can store electrical energy. What is often overlooked is what this does to its conductivity. A common comparison is that of the bucket: it can be filled with water, which can be kept there and then released when needed, just as a capacitor can be filled with electrical energy. But actually a toilet's water tank is a more accurate example. Just as with the bucket, you can store water in it, but there is one major difference: a bucket will overflow, but a toilet has the ability to stop the incoming water flow. And that is exactly what the capacitor is meant to do in this circuit, stopping the flow of electricity when it is full. As you can see from the schematic diagram (fig. 1), the circuit is made up of two loops, one with a power supply and the other without. Let's say you start with the toggle switch in the position without the power supply. The relay is in its rest position, meaning here that there is no contact on the keyboard card. As soon as you flip the toggle switch ("Positive rate of climb, gear up"), electricity will start flowing through the then closed loop (fig. 2). This means that the relay is triggered and will make contact on the keyboard card and that the capacitor starts charging. As soon as the capacitor starts to get full, there will be a decrease in current through the relay, making it break the contact. As soon as you decide to toggle the switch back again ("Roger, cleared to land"), the first loop is broken and the other one closed (fig. 3). In this case the electricity stored in the capacitor during the first process will be released, again triggering the relay momentarily and then letting it break contact again as soon as the stored electricity runs out. If you decide to switch again ("Declaring missed approach, going round"), the whole process starts over. Construction Before we actually start building, first the required legal stuff: You may use this design for your own purposes only. Feel free to change the design anyway you like, but please contact the author before republishing it anywhere else, in either its changed or original form. The author is not responsible for any damage done to any person or property! Now the fun bit: All you really have to do to build a proper version of this design (one switch looks kind of interesting, but doesn't really satisfy one's needs) is repeat it once for every key you want to hook a toggle switch to. Making a neat row of the components on a circuit building grid is probably the best idea, unless you are willing to make a full printed circuit board for it. The value of the capacitor is the main way to change the time the relay makes contact on the keyboard card. You might have to change it slightly to get the system to work best for your combination of computer, keyboard card and relay, but the shown value seems to work in most situations. I have read a number of ideas about the soldering of the leads to the keyboard card, but none of them really worked for me, so I came up with this possibility. You should be able to follow the tracks on the circuit board from the contact strips which stick out at the bottom (where almost everyone tries to put their leads) to the nearest soldering point. Believe me, it is A LOT easier to connect a wire to one of these soldering points than to the miniscule strips at the bottom! Copied from: http://www.flightsim.com/cgi/kds?$=main/howto/toggle.htm As far as my own seup with OC cards I'll know more by the end of this week. Just to make it hard on myself (and prepare me for the rest of the pit) I'll start using SIOC and all cards connected to a second PC from day one.. I will keep you posted.. (and as far as I know the use of L-CTRL vs R-CTRL and so on is no problem in SIOC?)..

I am thinking about using it to amplify the current from the FFB electronics, and use bigger motors on both the stick and pedals.. BTW I came accross this yesterday: Any thoughts Alex? And could you resend the e-mail you sendt me for my neighbour? I have had some problems with my hotmail account, and it got deleted by mistake:cry:..

Hands down any Joystick that can be programmed to suite your needs together with Urze's Force Feedback MOD is the best for blackshark..! I have a Cougar and I must admitt that the Cougar without modding is not my favourit.. WITH some modding however.. IT GREAT..! CH is quality through and through.. And Saitek is the preferred joystick for so many because it has good quality and centering (at least the X-52) and resolution. And also the programming possibilitys are good.. I've had them all and none of them suck. But for DSC Blackshark nothing beats Urzes MOD.. I use a homemade version of Urzes FFB MOD, but you get the general idea: As far as Pedals go I would say either build your own (all othe ones I have tested have the padals to close to eachother), or get CH or Saitek pedals.. But if your up for it.. Build'em yourself..! It's not that complicated:

Force Feedback rudder axis questions.. Give me i little more time my friend. I've been busy playing with the temporary cockpit setup these past days trying to get up to par on flying this thing..:cry: It will be up and running in a stripped version soon.. You are sooo right.. And my next module will be the sidepanel for sure.. Rudder axis I've got a Logitech 3D Force feedback joystick just sitting here. And it dawned on me that maybe I could use the electronics from it to run the force feedback Yaw axis pedals? But does anyone know if this will come in conflict with the Sidewinder 2 FFB in the setup? Or should I maybe just wait and get myself a FFB Wheel to hack? Ps. Also I have contacted Immersion (the makers of the Force Feedback HID electronics that most joystick manufaturers use) and asked them if it would be possible to use theyr electronics to build a completly new FFB Mechanics for all axis from scratch.. If they are kind and allow me to I'll definately go for this.. Keeping my fingers crossed waiting for them to reply..:music_whistling:

.. I'm guessing reading this make you guys responsible for DCS Blackshark really proud..? ..And you should be..! By far a whole new level in flightsimming..! He's got that right.. Nothing even close to it if you ask me. And I have'nt even started learning much about the details yet..! Thank you DSC and all the rest of the involved in building this sim.. I'm guessing press like this will be something your quite accustomed to in half a year or so..

No secret that I completly in love with helicopters.. LockOn was a milestone as far as flightsims go, but even that faded when I heard about DCS Blackshark the first time..:cry: And now.... well you guys know... I am a fan..! The RC Chopper you poasted a picture of is actually in production. I think it's made by a German company? Seem to remember reading about it in "ROTOR" (german Rc-Helicopter magazine), and also you might wanna try looking in RC Forums.. One of them have a thread dedicated to this model. But I can't quite remember what forum right now.. I'll look into it an edit the post..

I had my first evening playing with the finished modules of the Pit.. And all I can say is D**MN..! With only the Left Lower module and Collective and Cyclic working this is sooo much fun..!:thumbup: .. My new Yaw Pedals that will have Force Feedback buildt into them.. They will look a whole lot better after I have routed out the holes in the sidewalls and dressed them up so they look like this:

Triggerhappys Webpage under construction I have found a place where I can get 10Gb space for my webpage. It's not going to be pretty, but at least It's an easy way to give you access to all the files you want..:thumbup: http://triggerhappy69.hostrator.com/index.html

... you are so right...! ... I agree with you all.. It seems I need some kind of webpage where I can keep upgraded versions of the drawings and info for easy access for everyone.. But there is a slight problem.. I have no idea how to make a webpage.:music_whistling: I have been looking around a little for free webhotels (the kind that is financed with adds) to make this page. But none of them say how big my uppload limit would be? So far I have approx 700Mb of Solidworks drawings, pictures, How-To's and general info in my Ka-50 Pitbuild folder. And I expect it to grow to not much more than 150Mb more by the time i am finished? Anyone have some idea where and how I go forwards from here...? :helpsmilie:

I've used a Cougar with extention on it, a Logitech Force 3D, a MS Sidewinder2 USB and now a "hybrid joystick"... And I think you should go for the one you like best..! CH is really steady and precise.. And they hardly ever break down.! And with Urzes Collective add-on you're set..! Allthough if you ask me.. Or actually Urze again since he is the one who have bothered to aquire all theis know-how.. I'd go for Urzes MS Force Feedback paired with your joystick of preference... Just because you can't beat the best sollution.. .. but then again.. come to think of it.. I've never been absolutely 100% right about anything in my life..