Triggerhappy69

The croud is chanting: WE NEED UDTATE PICS..! WE NEED UPDATE PICS..! WE NEED UDTATE PICS..! WE NEED UPDATE PICS..! WE NEED UDTATE PICS..! WE NEED UPDATE PICS..! WE NEED UDTATE PICS..! WE NEED UPDATE PICS..! C'mon guys.. I know I haven't been available on MSN either lately.. (damn chick keeps bugging me EVERY TIME I log on.. I feel a restraining order is forthcoming LoL..!) But I'm dying to see how you all progress.!?

Join the debate mate..! We're all thinking about it..! (well maybe not me, I kinda staked my course out some time ago) http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=30253

Even though I am a Cougar user myself I would go for the Saitek in that case..! I used to have an old Satitek X-somethingsomthing (was it 32 or 42.. can't remember) And I really liked it.! Only reason I converted to the cougar was because I suffer from "modding madness" and the Cougar is perfect for modding. Come to think of it it actually has to be modded to some extent to be perfect. And the software for programing it (Foxy) is just amazing.! But Saitek's sofware wasn't far behind when I let mine go. So I gues they should be more than up tp par by now..! It breaks my heart, but balancing value and versatility for money I lean towards Saitek.. (crying)

Dude.. You made my day..! Was was really good news, and I just love starting the day with good news..! And I can imagine the days can't go fast enough for you before you go to see her .. I'm glad for you both..!:thumbup: Actually I have a question for you. So far I have used REED relays (MEDER electronic SIL12-1A72-71D) to trigger the 12V current for the backlight LED's. But it seems They are not up for the job? According to the specs they should be able to? http://www.meder.com/upload/produkte/46_en_1_Relay%20SIL%20Series%20e.pdf Could it be that me making this first panel with just one resistor for 14 LED's is the problem? (BTW Alex.. I am going to follow your suggestion for the other panels.. One resistor for each LED. Because the one on my APU Panel gets REALLY hot after only a couple of seconds..) And again.. Really glad for you.. and her naturally..! :D

(..blushing..) Thanx mate.. I'll do my best to deserve it..! Solidworks 2008.. I tried Autocad and then TurboCad, but I have to say that Soliworks by far is the best for me.. I have no formal education in CAD apart from taking a course in programming CNC machines with G-Code back in -92 (had a year leave of absence from the Army after a "routine" mission somewhere not far south from Hungary). And learned two very important lessons from that. 1. War sucks! 2. CAD is much more fun! I would like to have a go at both Solidedge and the new Autocad Inventor, but for now Solidworks wil have to do.. Maybe after I finish the pit? (As if I'll EVER be able to lean back and consider it finished... LMAO)

Thank you guys..! You've helpep me moe than you know..! If I'm not missunderstanding the info there ARE two triggers. I started working on drawings for making a "correct" trigger mechanism some time ago, but I never quite understand how the mech of it also worked as a "fail-safe" for misfiring the cannon/ordanace. And now I am i awe of russian designers.! Time and time again it baffels me how they manage to solve a multi complexed problem with simple, reliable and just ingeneous sollutions.! Controlling 4 different functions that has to be executed in theyr correct sequence by the use of two moving parts.? And not a lot of computers and electronics.! Now that is what I call engineering with brilliance.. This what have so far: And my first (guessworks) of the trigger mechanism: My ambition is to go all the way with the Cyclic Stick and its Force-Trim mechanics, and the same for the Tailrotor Pedals. The Collective Stick's mechanical collective brake system has already been designed. And are undergoing production (read as me swearing over 5mm Alu plates and a fine grinder) and as soon as I have tested it, I'll post an update... As it looks right now though, there's a 50% chance it will have to undergo some re designing. It works all right, but the feeling of it is to "plastic" for my liking.. I can't wayt to get started on actualy making this now. An "authentic" cyclic stick..! I know I may have mentioned this before in another thread? But again I would like to extend my thanx to all of you for your help... (could someone please stop me before I go all "mushy" here...!!? Michael Bolton playing in the background ) Ps. My version of "authentic" obviously isn't on the level of HPO and Wasserfall and that bunch. But maybe one day I'll reach they're level... (dreaming)..

Does the x-52 use potmeters and the PRO Hall effect sencors? Or do they both use hall effect?

Started working on the pedal arm drawings today..

I see you have a picture of the cockpit as well? I came across these on another forum the other day: Dunno if they are of any help, but I thought I'de post them just n case! BTW.. The new A-10 model... M-m-M..! It's gorgeous..! (it will not make me give up my frog, or spend less time in it. But still... gorgeous..!)

Next time you talk to her , let here know that she is a brave woman.! And those come far between. I am pretty sure I speak for the rest of us when I say we'll keep our fingers, toes, arms and legs krossed for her returining safely back to you ASAP..! (...thinking a while...) Come to think of it! It can't be easy on you either mate..! Hang in there..! These things always seem to have a tendency to sort itself out.. But I can imagine your frustration over not being able to do anything to improve the situation.. As far as me nagging about trivial PCB things.. Just asnwer whenever you feel like it.. It is no no great importance now. Girlfriend's safety comes first, Triggers nagging go waaaay back in the "to-do" list..! Let me know how things progress mate.. At least let me know when she's safely back with you again. My thoughts go out to both of you (and some warm blankets to her as well..)

Force feedback stick for Heli Sims... Check out the link.. : http://www.simprojects.nl/flight_stick.htm

I have corrected the pcb's now.. The resistor problem should be gone now.. Feel free to download and use at your own will..!

Hmmmm...? Thrustmster Cougar... Saitek X-thisandthat.. CH Fighterstick.. and even SunCom's.. They all work, and if you aske me they all need a certain dgree of modding to fit perfect for DCS Blackshark.! I use a heavily modded Cougar (stick extension, Hall effect sencors, added ballbearings to gimbals, Homemade pedals and some modding to the electronics). And STILL I build a complete new setup for the Blackshark... My advice would be to go for X-52 PRO with Urzes collective mod and any pedals... DO add a stck extension to the cyclic. Not just to have the stick in the "right" place, but most of all because it dramaticly improves the precise inputs being that your arm can move more with smaller increments of input. (again... look at URZE's mods) I have tried CH products briefly. And they seem to be really good to.! Pedals: If you can't find some old thrustmaster pedals (he's right you know.. they are really good), just build them yourself..! I'll post a complete How-To on making pedals from stuff readily available at any hardwareshop in a month or so under "tech discission". And my goal is to have them cost less than 30Ј..! Not counting the time spent building them of course.. To summarize.. They ALL make good HOTAS..! But what you need in Blackshark is a HOCAS.! If you plan on using your stick for several different sims My two cents are: Alt. 1 - Go down the Saitek lane, and give URZE a hollar on left side limited dot cum. Alt. 2 - Get whatever you want. Whip out the hacksaw and a soldering iron, and join the frantic, not so mentally stable world of modders (hail to you all fellow modders! May we all be spared from shortcircuits and parts that don't quite fit!) Alt. 3 - Join a Yoga class on work on fine-tuning you bodys motoric skills. And then just use whatever HOTAS you fancy.. But whatever you do.. Use Pedals..! Epilog: Having read through this I have serious conserns regarding my own mental health..! And my own abillity to provide actuall usefull advise. On behalf of me I appologize and retire to my dark and dreary corner for some tea.. (who said that?)

I hate to say that you are absolutely right mate..!:music_whistling: I am most definately screwed beond any hope of salvation..! But the way to damnation is quite enjoyable if I might be so bold and say so! LMAO.! I'll just keep improving my skills in PCB making as fast as I am able to. But still I ponder over a few things I'd like to ask you? 1. Your tracks are so narrow and elegant looking..! I use a toner transfer method to transfer the layout to the PCB. That's why I use 1mm wide track. It's just a lot easyer to get a good result that way. What method do you use? And is there an easyer, and more accurate way than Laser-print transferring? I have skimmed the "how-to" on photoetching, but It seems both expensive and complicated! Am I wrong? 2. As I told you, I'll use 12v to run the backlight LED's on the panels. Do I need to make the traces wider for these? 3. Where in the name of Chri.... is it possible to obtain an XY Coordinate machining table at e reasonable price..? A manual one is just super..! If I need it to be CnC controlled I'll just convert it myself.. I have been hunting on e-bay for ages, and found a bunch of good bargains... All in the US..! So with the cost of transporting it to Norway it amounts to a fortune..! Aaaaagrh!

I also use twosided boars. mostly because I cant seem to find room for routing all the tracks without a gazillion "vias".. If experience is what it takes to make them neatly organized like this? Then I just need to aquire that experience ASAP..! I will probably be nagging you with stupid (read as: .... stupid..) questions, if that's ok by you?

Anyone ..... ANYONE... have pictures that show the trigger mechanism and/or what function the triggers have? I have seen from videos and pcs that here are two seperate triggers. And I assume that they work kinda like the one on the Su-25-27-33 ..? One for the Cannon, and one for launching ordonance..? I seriously need some details of the front of the cyclic stick to be able to reproduce it for my pit..! Please help me guys..!

I have flown the Su-25 and Su-25T explusively since Lomac, and later FC, was released.. And I agree 100% with what TFlash say... The Su-25T is by my standards the coolest plane to dodge arround in, hiding in valleys from Pilatosso's all seing radar. And outrunning F-15's who quite wrongly belived it flies like a brick..! My beloved 'Frog' is and agile as hell, hard-hitting, full of surpices BEAUTIFULL plane.! I only wish more guys would give it's rarities and complex flight model (thank you ED for that.. I just love it still after all this time) a fair chance. And maybe be humble enough to take a step back from the more linear US groundpounder and US/RU fighter jets..? It will require a new and maybe more complex and fliud style of controlling the plane, but I for one can promise you that once you get to know the 'Frog', you will LOVE IT to..! That being said, Flying fighters are as complex as anything. Just on another level.! They vectorbased combat manouvers for lining yourself up for a perfect locktone, and power managing your jet while in close combat is like doing fractal mathmatics with real short time limit. And don't even get me started on the radars, comms, and flight-group tactics..! I preferre a 3 ship formation inside a real tight valley racing towards a heavily defended TA with fightercover in my "brick"..! And I can't help but smile everytime I manage out manouver, with quite ease, a figher to the pilots astonishment..! The frog doesn't fly like a brick.. There are pilots who fly IT like a brick, but who can blame fre 'Frog' for that..?

This does make sence to me.. I will change all the PCB layouts from now... BTW.. How do you get the wires all neatly organized horizontally like that..!? Me like A LOT..!

Update 11.05.08 Part 2. APU Panel finished with textplate and backlighting Judging from the look on my face I was starting to get a little bored from working on this ONE PANEL for so long! LoL First backlit picture with text face on.! Just a tiny bit of wire conneting now, and I'm done with the bloody APU Panel (at least for now)..! All detailed drawings and a short build description is on it's way.. Gimme a couple of days and I'll have it ready...! So what do you think?

Update 11.052008 APU Panel With PCB and Backlight Time for Baclighting the APU Panel.. Here's a couple of thoughts and experiences I made (and will not make again I hope): For some so far unknown moronic reason I designed the PCB in such a way that the solderpads were spread on both sides of the PCB... NOT A GOOD IDEA..! All the LED's had to be adjusted in height and then soldered on both sides. Now that in it self is no biggie.. LED's have looong legs that are easy to solder. The REED Relay on the other hand does not make for soldering on both sides.! I'll keep that in mind for the new PCB Layouts coming up! (I'll just exchange the ones in the original post, and make and edit note of it): The REED Relay in the bootom right corner triggers the 12V current to the Backlight LED's. Other side. The switches and rotary will be connectet by short wires to solderpads near to each switch, and then routed to the connection-side of the PCB.. Started adding some of the cables. ... more cables.. FINALLY...! First time the backlight LED's shine.. And Alex..? You're right..! The resistor got really hot, but I hope it will hold.. Print for backlit text are made up of two layers of identical A4 Paper glued together. And then covered with laminating film (the sticky type you use on school books).

The Backlight LED's (the 14) are switched on by a 5V output from my IOCards. This triggers a 12V supply, from a computer powersource, through a REED Relay (HAMLIN HE 3621A1200 in the top Left corner). The Warning light LED Is driven directly from the 5V output from IOcard.. They both have seperate resistors.. (one for the backlight LED's and one for the Warning light LED). Damn Alex..! Now you're scaring me a bit here..!

Like This..? Like this?? :

Good point..! They are all the same LED (5mm Ultrawhite, 30mA, 3,5Volt).. Is that what you would call "idealy matched" .. ? Or are you talking about something else..?:huh:

THIS.. is why I don't bother with any other sim..! Not only is it probably the best balanced gaming/filghtsim software so far. But with guys like Groove making up our comunity.... To Groove: This action say a lot about your personality.. You have my respect..! To Kusch: Congratz with the HOTAS..! Just make sure you don't use it to take me out..! 'Cause then I'll be comeing after Groove..! LMAO..! Can't write more now.. Eyes are watering over..!

You CAN find new Soncom Joysticks As I mentioned in another post, I have found a supplyer that has a batch of brand spanking "new" SunCom Sticks and spareparts.. Send a mail to these guys: http://www.computerpartner.no/frame_uk.html