debolestis

What is that?

Does anybody has 4 way switch from Cougar or Warthog that is not working or that is not in use? It is different from FLCS/F22 switches and I'd like to make knobs for it. I just need it for a few days.

Added new version of paddle lever. I think it is now OK. Changed model a little, added more polygons to it. Adder new materials, I didn't notice before there is "matte black steel", probably painted stainless steel, like "black strong and flexible" that is painted white nylon.

OK, so everything is working now? Can you post some photos of finished stick? Is it OK that I post your photos on my Shapeways page?

Dammit, what a difference 1mm plays. Please take photo of adjustments and I'll correct mistakes. Sorry again.

Looks OK, some printing lines are visible. Some hand polishing would probably improve the looks of it. I corrected tailpiece models, widened hole for connector, added better description. Also version number with date. I think tailpieces should be OK now, I'll order one myself next week. Thrustmaster joystick tailpiece Thrustmaster joystick tailpiece-M Thrustmaster joystick tailpiece, 13 deg. angle Thrustmaster joystick tailpiece, 13 deg. angle-M Suncom to Thrustmaster joystick tailpiece

Do you maybe know thickness of your metal spacers? I didn't notice that problem in Cougar that I have. Does it happen often?

OK, great, that means a lot. I shall make changes to models. Was everything else OK? No other modifications?

Can you just take a photo of a bottom where connector is? No need for disasembly.

It is more or less same model. Second link is the same as first link but it has more material, it is suitable more for plastics, I left option for metal as well but I don't think it is necessary, because stainless steel is more than strong for the task. Stainless steel Plastic You can see the difference, it was also explained in product description. Can you please post one photo of your tailpiece? I just want to see something then I can change all the models. You are right about confusion, I'll explain better in description, add new version number and date for every model. I sold maybe 15 of these tailpieces, If somebody else is going to have problems whit it, it is an easy fix. I wanted that connector has tight fit so that adding two screws is not necessary. All you have to do is to find somewhere table drill and use M12 drill and widen the hole. It is not difficult, it is only maybe 0.1mm wider. If somebody want two screws then this must be used: and this, M2,5 tap drills

Can we continue discussion on THIS THREAD. I started thread where we can talk about my shop. Thank you!

Hi everybody! On this thread I would like to introduce my Shapeways store. First of all, what is Shapeways? Shapeways is online 3D printing service. On their site everybody can make their own shop and sell their designs. I was annoyed by the fact that I couldn't find all parts that I needed for my joystick mods so I decided to try a little 3D printing. I know how to work in Sketchup so design was easy for me. What surprised me was the quality of Shapeways' prints, they have powerful industrial printers, that are light years away from what "a normal person" can buy as desktop printer. They print plastic, metals (stainless steel, aluminum) and other materials. In the end it is what I need. I don't want 3D printer I just wanted something printed from time to time. When you buy something you are not buying a digital model but real 3D printed physical model. Shapeways has base price for every model and designer add markup price to that. I add 1 US$ for every model that I make it doesn't matter how it is complicated or what material it is made from. I am not trying to make a living out of this, maybe just a few dollars to finance my hobby. And I like to work in Sketchup. I started with my shop after discussion on THIS THREAD. People had problems with Thrustmaster joystick tailpiece. That part is made out of aluminum-zinc alloy and is not strong enough, and it could be broken easily. Thrustmaster will not send a replacement and you are stuck with shiny warthog that you can use as paperweight. This is how it works: First you go to my Shapeways shop Then select a model you want to print. Have in mind that plastics are about 5 to 10 times cheaper than metal prints. Then put it in your shopping basket and pay. I usually wait about 2 week for my prints to arrive, some people reported longer waiting times. Also if you want something printed that is not in my shop, I can draw it for free. I can draw almost everything but I also have limits in time and knowledge. If something is super-complex, maybe I shall not be able to make it. Stuff like knobs and tailpieces are easy. I CANNOT TAP THREADS in places where screw is needed. You have to do it yourself with a proper tool for that. There will probably be mistakes but everything can be fixed. I recommend that you order first plastic part if you are not sure if it will work. Some of my designs are in BETA. It is just a status, I cannot print all of models that are in my store and I wait for feedback from users. If feedbacks are OK then I remove BETA status. You can print BETA models, they should be 99% OK it just means that I am not 100% sure. If somebody reports a mistake I shall correct it. A few photos of my models:

I have old TQS that looks the same, but that is complex part, I can probably make it but it will take a lot of testing. We'll see about that one.

You cannot widen the hole with dremel. Stainless steel is to strong for that tool. I assure you that 60$ is not an error, it is easy fix and you will get something that will probably outlive your joystick. As I said until model has 100% feedback or when I personally test it I will remove BETA status.

I am sorry to hear that. I have no idea what model you ordered. Can you please post photos of it? I said to everybody that most of my models are in beta stage and that they should order in plastic. I changed that model and removed old one but it is still in beta because I didn't test it and nobody else posted anything so far. I mentioned in one of my post that I cannot tap holes (make threads). It is impossible to print M2,5 threads. I am sorry for 60 US$ but it is easy fix, and you didn't pay 60 to me. I got 1$ from that sale 59 goes to Shapeways. I know that everybody is eager to get these parts, but the hole process will take some time, I started this one month ago. I wanted to work with community so that everybody is happy in the end.

OK, here is alternative version. LINK

Youo need this: http://www.bunnings.com.au/gardena-18mm-repair-joiner-hose-fitting-connector-_p3110398 I bought it here in Croatia for 3 Euros, and you get 2 nuts.

OK, I made something, this is photo that Sokol1 posted: This is what I made: LINK to my store I used similar HAT from SFS throttle as a starting model, rest is eyeballed since I had no other dimensions. I made it to fit PS3 thumbstick, Cougar has probably different shaft dimensions, if somebody can measure, I can make that as well. I also made 2,5mm hole that can be tapped to M3 thread. Bellow you can se SFS HAT, on the right is PS3 thumbstick and "enclosure" that I printed, it needs some modifications, but this way it will be easy to mount it on SFS throttle.

Please post some photos. I cannot print threads inside nut. Gardena has also plastic screws that weight nothing.

Ok, thank you for suggestion, I'll make that model.

Good work Sokol. That is a great sensor, works great. I don't know why its not more used.

Good to know that everything works fine. Please guys, just post photos of your 3D printed models. I added a few other parts in my store: Antenna elev. knob. for 6mm shaft Antenna elev. knob for 1/4 inch shaft And washer thing that goes on top of it I wanted that it looks like this: Photo is from this post. I think similar or same knob is also on F-15 throttle, one more reason to make it. I am also looking to change knobs for switches on SFS throttle. Weapon/Mode switch knob Boat switch knob Speed brake switch knob If you have any suggestions please let me know.

You can find steel plate from other joystick or if you have somebody who can cut it. I've got mine from old TM X-fighter joystick. This is modified Flightstick pro. Bottom view, you just need a little longer screws. Flight stick pro don't have 4 holes in the middle but it is easy to drill.

Ok, this was the problem: There is something called minimal wall thickness. For metal it is 0.75mm, and you can see where it was 0.5mm (red). Now it is fixed try it now. Paddle lever for Cougar, FLCS and F22 - V2 Thank you Icarus for your feedback, that is exactly what I need. I cannot really print every version of every model, and your feedback helps me a lot. Thank you!

OK, I will the model in next two days.