MilesD

Has anyone else noticed that the grass in 2.1 is a significantly different color in each eye.? I only notice it down low, but it is very distracting. I thought my lenses were dirty until I alternately open and closed each eye.

Did you get the dome light in the overhead panel?

Hey Sokol1, I really do need to look at MMJoy2. I am so used to coding the arduino I never bothered, but it does sound like a great package.

You don't have to necessarily bother with I2C? I would just run each one as a separate controller, just like the Thrustmaster MFDs do. Like CrashO said, you will run up against the max buttons of only 1 joystick controller even though you have multiples arduinos linked. Don't discount using the diode matrix. Often it can make wiring simpler if you put the diodes right on the switches. If you are going to have only a few buttons on each box then you can just use one arduino and run multi conductor wire or even Ethernet cable wire with connectors. I like to use 5 conductor solid strand copper phone wire that is available here in the U.S. for these types of projects. It is easy to screw to switches and terminal board like this one without the need to tin the ends with solder to keep them from fraying. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-Set-Terminal-Adapter-Board-for-the-Arduino-Nano-V3-0-AVR-ATMEGA328P-AU-Module-/171772068561?hash=item27fe69c2d1:g:GNIAAOSwgkRVUhfe With (2) of these 5 conductor cables you can make a 5 x 5 matrix that will give you 25 separate SPST switches and 50 corresponding joystick buttons, or just use (1) 5 conductor cable will give that will give you 6 switches. You can also easily wire a three position switchs (on off on) to give you three separate joystick button presses for each state. You can be creative with your matrix. Example being: 3 button boxes each with a 5x5 matrix would require 30 arduino inputs. The arduino only has 20 inputs. By combining the rows of each matrix you end up with a 5x15 matrix which only requires 20 arduino inputs put gives you 75 switch inputs. While not as efficient as a square matrix (10x10 matrix equals 100 switches with 20 arduino inputs it often makes wiring easier. Miles

Hi Robin, There are many ways to add what want. I find the easiest is to use a pro micro http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Pro-Micro-ATmega32U4-5V-16MHz-Replace-ATmega328-Arduino-Pro-Mini-/140972980117?hash=item20d2a4f795:g:MTwAAOSw241YfeGn or the Leonardo if you don't want to solder on a small board http://www.ebay.com/itm/Leonardo-R3-Pro-ATmega32U4-W-Cable-For-Arduino-Micro-USB-/262724799722?hash=item3d2b9e4cea:g:BL4AAOSwux5YL3Jo They both use the ATmega32U4 and are natively recognized as USB HID devices. I find this libriary works very well and is simple to use. https://github.com/MHeironimus/ArduinoJoystickLibrary I would start with just basic button inputs until you get familiar with it. Once you get the hang of it, it is very versatile. We just built a VR panel for my friend using a 5 x 8 diode matrix that can read 40 switches as 80 separate joystick buttons. the 5 X 8 matrix was done for simplicity of wiring because it closely matches the panel layout. A SPST switch is read as 1 joystick button when switched ON and another joystick button when switched OFF. Here is a good reference on switch matrixes http://pcbheaven.com/wikipages/How_Key_Matrices_Works/ Like I said, there are many ways to this, but, I like this one because it does not require any other software or updating any firmware on the micro controller. The MHeironimus library can read up to 128 buttons, 2 hat switches and 6 or 8 axis. The pro micros also easily reads shift registers. Good luck

LTC Android, You have been very patient and you will certainly be in the next batch. Thanks for the manufacturing suggestions. I have 5 cnc mills, from a small sherline that I make my PCBs on to larger machines with automatic tool changers. I also have a 3d printer but it can't match the quality of machined parts. While these look simple, they take time to make. The magnet holder alone for the joystick takes 4 separate operations that require refixturing between each one. While they are tedious to make I do enjoy it. Apologies for the delays, I just need to get my ass back in gear refocus on sim products. Miles

Sorry that I have been absent from this thread. Every time I try and put some time aside to do another production run of these kits, something comes up. I really do want to make these again soon, but I have given a few time estimates and I was never able to meet them. I promise I will post here as soon as they are ready to go. Miles

I had the same issue. It turned out out that the cursor on the 2d monitor was going into the windows toolbar on the bottom of the screen which would cause it to become deactivated in the rift. I moved my windows toolbar to the right side side and it never happened again.

Yes.

1.5 frame rate drop in Rift Same here with the Rift. When things get busy the frame rate drops significantly, even with i7 6700k and 980ti. Miles

I hope I can finish my current project up so I can make these kits again. The feedback has been very positive and I know there is a lot of frustration out there with people wanting to upgrade there sticks and throttles. I really am looking forward to filling your orders, but every time I say next week I have a delay with my current project. Thanks for your patience, I have not forgot. Miles

Hey T You should have tracking info in your email. Sorry about the delay. Miles

Same Here, only embarking option available and that does not function. Troops don't stop at waypoint to be loaded, They just go on their merry way to the next waypoint.

Production Run Sorry to all of those that have been waiting for me to send a invoice. I really hope I can do another production run next week. Every time I try and set aside a few days to make more kits life keeps getting in the way. I have all of your pm's and as soon as your order is ready I will send paypal invoices. All I require is your email and which products you would like to order Thanks again for all of your support and patience. Miles

Definitely check and if its the old board the trace cut mod should be something you are comfortable doing. Thanks for the interest Miles

location with timezone: North Eastern USA native language: English other fluently spoken languages: None fluent have an accent, which one: none experience as voice actor & recording equipment:see below kind of voice i.e. low, high, strong, soft, etc,: average No experience as a voice actor, but spent 24 years on the ground as a 18B and 18Z (Green Beret). Complete knowledge of RTP (radio telephone procedures) for everything but naval gunfire. I always thought it would be cool to try and do a "talk on" DCS mission. ( talking the pilot on target through visual references ) Also marking targets with tracer fire. Miles

Hi Roland, Do you wan't just a connector to replace the one that got pinched in the case, or do you want a the whole sensor and connector? Miles

Since I have steel rods and screws in my neck I have limited head movement. So what I do is if I have to look beyond my head movement is this: Down: look up as far as I can then recenter view button, look down again. Left Down: Look up right then recenter view button, look left down again. Essentially look the opposite way you want to look then recenter view button, and then look the way you want to again. When done look forward and recenter view button Miles

DIView also, per Sokol recommendation.

I would clip the cap and try it, Its not really required. I just made up some more sensors and I will get one out to you in the morning. Sorry for the inconvenience. Miles

Drahkken, Red = 5 volts Yellow = Ground Black= Output (test leads between black and yellow wires should vary voltage when magnetic field changes) Good luck Miles

Drahkken. I am sorry things are not working out. Your right, it does not make sense to me either. I would be surprised if it was the sensor but I am going to send you out another one before you spend to much time on it. If you want to test the sensor independently of the throttle and have access to 5 volts you could test the sensor only hooked up to a external power source and the Vout (signal) pin hooked up to your meter. Don't worry about damaging the sensor if you get it wrong, I have more. On a positive side the best way to learn is when things don't work. Miles

Drakken, If you could check both end of the wiring, it should look like this. http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=160613&page=5

Drahkken, You are right, it would not work. That picture was to just show the old board. The mod is shown here http://www.bmsforum.org/forum/showthread.php?24707-Cougar-Throttle-Hall-Effect-Potentiometer-Cubpilot-Reincarnated!&highlight=cub+pilot but I don't know if would work or not. I do find it interesting that you are having problems and have the old board. I am still waiting to hear from someone else who had the same problem. Can you check the voltage before and after the resistor? The pinout appears to be the same.

Possible throttle board incompatibility I have had a few customers that have had issues with windows not reading the hall sensor. In doing some research into this it appears there is 2 boards for the cougar throttle a 3.8 volt and 5 volt version. The 5 volt appears to be the newer one. While I have been unable to confirm it yet it looks like this may be the problem. Drahkken and USMC if you can check your boards with the pictures below and let me know which one you have that would be great. Before anyone else orders the kits I would check to make sure you have the newer board. This looks to be the old board that may not work. The posted did a mod and it worked for him. This one works(pic from AV8R) Back of one that works, no resistor