rel4y
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Everything posted by rel4y
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Yes, it will work! :)
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HOTAS Cougar - Throttle => Broken Radioswitch..........
rel4y replied to TheCabal's topic in Thrustmaster
You can easily drill 20mm into the pin. Just take it out, it is only held in by the round plastic "lid" with the 2 side cut offs. You can simply crank the lid out with a small screwdriver and the remove the pin. -
I am certain it would, as you will replace all of the electronics and sensors in the pedals. You could initially try a sensor upgrade first, because it seems unlikely the mainboard would cause such behavior. Nice! Are the spade connectors inserted fully on the sensor, because I believe on my CHF they go in further. Dont break them off though! :D I just answered your emails btw. Was on the road yesterday.
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Thanks Gary, you're the man! :thumbup:
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I fear I have overengineered the CH sensors, as I have trouble producing any significant numbers of them. :( They do work marvelously however.. I have 8 new upgrade mainboards and like 14 sensors ready. I will start to ship these out at the end of the week. I am also awaiting some pictures of them in USB CH devices (I only have gameport ones with different colored cables), so I can make a detailed and accurate installation guide.
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I am afraid I dont quite understand your question. I am trying to make replacements for many different sensor types. The CH style ones work on a whole lot of gear. CH Fighterstick/ Combatstick CH Pro Throttle CH Pedals TM F-22 Pro TM F-16 FLCS TM F-16 TQS
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You plug the hall sensor into the little board. The board circumvents the voltage supply line on the mainboard and therefore also the resistor that causes the voltage to drop from 5V to 3.8V. So the hall sensor is then fed with full 5V that it needs for correct operation. The rest of the pins are simply passed through. Maybe you can post a picture of your installation and I can check if everything is fine. :)
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Ah yes, in the December batches I simply copy pasted the shipment notice and adjusted the tracking number. The PDF is meant for the USB standalone adapter. The voltage conversion board is inserted with the white JST connector pointing towards the diodes on the Throttle mainboard aka the side with lots of space. :) Are all other axis working? You can check if you pinched a wire of the Microstick in the Throttle grip, that happens rather easily. Also check if one of the pins on the pass through board is maybe bent outwards and doesn't sit correctly in the connector. (I know this is rather unlikely.)
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Which throttle mod do you have? If you have the Throttle hall sensor, it has nothing to do with the Microstick axis at all. If you have the USB standalone adapter mod you shouldn't combine it with a Tusba. I'm confused.
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No no, I know of the too high USB data pullup resistor on the blue pill boards. I have soldered a 1,8k resistor in parallel over the usb input R10 and it works no problem. Not all USB sockets will cause problems with the bad pullup anyway. The nominal resolution of an ADC is not the only metric you need to look at. There is also sample rate & SNR of the ADCs. Said bluntly, the two internal ADCs are really cheap. There is so much noise, that your effective resolution will be more like 8-9 Bit. If you have your axis in idle at an ideally steady voltage output, the digital read out of the ADC will still fluctuate quite a lot. Let's be optimistic and say you can't differentiate +-1 digits of your nominal value because of ADC noise. That means of your nominal 12 Bit resolution (4096 points), you can effectively only differentiate ~1365 absolute points. This means you have an effective resolution of only about 10,4 Bit. One solution is digitally averaging the input while sacrificing output sample rate.
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I have played around with this piece of Software since October (https://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=4065934&postcount=6) and it has come a long way since. Such great work by vostrenkov! What it really needs is an external ADC like the MCP320x (because the internal ADCs are sadly not very good) and adjustable VIP/ PID. I hope the developer can add these features in the future! :)
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Yeah, the mantra seems to be the more, the merrier. But OK, that's a trend I can at least relate to and which makes some sense. :) What really gets me is that people love 100% real cockpits, but then want shitty heavy zamak grips when all modern fighters use light weight much higher quality resin grips. I even feel bad calling zamak a metal, because it has the mechanical properties of horsepoop... But like you said before, the heavier the more real people think it is.. TM should simply rererelease the zamak F-16 err Warthog grip with lead weights. People will love it! :D
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I just checked, I don't have any unanswered emails in my account. Can you please resend it, I may have deleted it accidentally or something. :o You can only unplug the whole "input" PCB including the Microstick, so the Throttle wouldn't be of much use without it. You could still adjust the Throttle, but there would be a gaping hole on the thumb side. :P
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Do you mean the Microstick? I think you know about my Pro Throttle index finger slew already. :) I only have a Gameport Pro Throttle, which has no analog Microstick at all. So it's hard to make proper mods for the USB version. If someone wants to borrow me the part (it's easily unplugged), I may be able to come up with something. Glad to hear! Dual stage trigger and gimbal mod are in the works. (CAD is done.) I have to test around which works best for the gimbal, as I want to modify as few parts as possible. I will post a bunch of pictures when I am satisfied with the design. :thumbup:
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Hey, I have made a complete 3D printable 4 way hat for the CH sticks. I haven't uploaded it all yet, but it's done and tested. (Went through 5 iterations from Shapeways till everything fitted perfectly.) I didn't consider 5 way as the real F-16 has a 4 way CMS afaik. For converting Combatsticks to a Fighterstick I also made a PCB that lets install the fourth 4 way hat (DMS hat). I have also made an upgrade mainboard and small shift registers for the CH products, so you can upgrade to 12 Bit resolution and add all the buttons you wish for. The upgrade mainboard is completely plug and play, but also has a lot of expansion capabilities. :) Next is a Fighterstick/ Combatstick gimbal upgrade and a plug and play dual stage trigger mod.
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I tried this project last December back when it was just released. Very cool he added shift regs and TLE5011s. Looks promising, but sadly you can only use 3.3V inputs on the analog pins.
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The batch consisted of shift regs and TM mods. Like I said, I just finished testing the 12 Bit CH upgrade mainboards and new rev 1.3 CH sensors this weekend. I have only made two of each so far, but it will be going full steam in a few days. Dont worry you are at the very top of my preorder list Cheetah. :)
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I shipped the first January batch today. Id like to apologize for taking so long. The tracking numbers will be mailed out tomorrow. Just wanted to give a few quick updates, while I am overall very busy with work right now. Last weekend I finished testing the 12 Bit CH upgrade mainboards and new rev 1.3 CH sensors. The new CH sensors fit every CH device plug and play and now finally have the correct spade crimps. :thumbup: This is what the final products look like: (Lower right is a rev 1.2 CH sensor board, these are the only ones to fit the CH pedals Z axis. This one goes to GaryR as replacement for the sensor board we grilled together. :)) Btw, can someone send me a broken Warthog (pinky/ thumb) switch? Id love to make a replacement with high quality japanese OMRONs.
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It honestly never seemed necessary to me as the stick sensors are really self explanatory to install. However, I believe there are some YouTube tutorials on Cougar disassembly which may help. Make sure to remove the small hex screws of the Gameport connectors to access the stick PCB, that may cause the only hiccup I can think of right now. What do you want to know about throttle sensor mounting? There is not much to it really, just remove the old pot, stick in the magnet axle, stick in the sensor and your done. Everything only fits in one way. :)
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I believe I just answered both your PM and email. On Sunday I only answered half of the emails, then I got distracted by something. The hall sensor is a plug and play replacement. It has the same connector as the original pot. You just stick in the magnet axle, seat the sensor and plug it in. Then recalibrate and done. I just received the shipping notice from Shapeways. That means the newest gen CH sensor housings are on their way to me. Yay. :) The final 12 Bit CH upgrade mainboards are also done and will go live together with the CH sensors.
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The throttle axis sensor is attached to the USB adapter and the corresponding magnet axle was either loose in the package or is wrapped in the bubble wrap beneath the adapter. Did you get the PDF? There are installation instructions with pictures, from there it should be clear which part is doing what. :)
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The USB adapter looks like shown in the photo on the first page of this thread. You should also have received a link to a PDF with installation instructions. Is there not a little device with a red PCB and colorful cables attached in the package? :o
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You might be interested in my Cougar Throttle hall sensor then. This will fix a jumpy pot. Check which mainboard type you have (instructions in the first post) and shoot me an email. While your at it you can also clean the Throttle mechanism and check if the resistance lever (operated by the little turn wheel) is seated correctly. It should be buttery smooth afterwards. My TQS SN is 8218. It might be the earlier TQS then which have the hex screws. I am talking about the red little laptop mouse thingy, I only know it as clit mouse. :D It is about the worst slew input I can imagine... There's no way in hell I will keep that thing on my TQS, not sure what the TM engineers were thinking.
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Geez, its driving me nuts! I finally managed to get one out, while wrecking one of my hex keys and I think its imperial 5/32 in. How on earth shall I get something like that in Europe... The ones on the grip itsef are imperial hex. So are you using the little red thingy? Isnt that totally akward? Edit: I will try that tomorrow. Thanks Sokol! :) Edit2: Hah, I just had my bright moment of the day. Torx T10 fits perfectly. :thumbup:
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Does anybody know which allen hex screws the Thrustmaster TQS uses? None of my metric hex keys seem to fit.. I wanted to make an ALPS microstick slew mod, but cant get it open. :(