Fakum

Hi all, I am struggling to get my head wrapped around how to get the water injection button to depress, then to lock in the depressed position using the T1 IN. Of course, to shut it off, I would want to press the same switch again. I cant figure out how to do it. The current config just presses the button in, but wont hold it in so the next command will lock it in place? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks BTN T1 /I /P /H Water_Injection_Button /R Water_Injection_Button_Lock_toggle

Thanks for the advice, I will do that

I have (2) Thrustmaster Cougar HOTAS's I am considering selling on EBay. They are used. (1) is OEM stock, the other is UBER 2 Modded by Ian Johnston. I can provide details if there is any interest. I am in the USA, Thanks,

Oh,, ok,,, I did look for one here, but obviously I overlooked it, thanks guys

I have been trying to get an answer over at Virpil Discord, but no lick yet. Ff my potential order total w/shipping from Virpil equals $ 868.55 US, how much will US Customs charge me for delivery to USA? Thanks

I am going to sell my (2) Thrustmaster Cougars. One is OEM, the other UBER 2 Modded. Would Ebay be the best place? Thanks

https://midoriamericaonlineshop.com/product/as_qp-2h/

Thanks for the feedback guys

I certainly agree with your logic, and I did take it apart again and inspect the hall sensor, spun the shaft quiet a few times. I didnt notice anything unusual. I then went ahead to try and figure out if it could be installed in more then one way, but i was only successful at getting a full insert in one specific position. Regarding Midori, I found the American site, and it has the part listed. I plan on calling them tomorrow. Not ecstatic about the cost though,, has me contemplating dumping the Cougar and going for other, especially if Im not 100% confident I need a new Hall sensor,,,, https://midoriamericaonlineshop.com/log-in/

So the feedback on this generally is that there is a bit of slop in the center? Im actually experiencing this free floating slop with my Uber 2 mod, and since it appears that one of my hall sensors is questionable, i need to come up with a solution, and this option is still on the table.

Im not clear as to what your saying, are you agreeing with me that it can only go in one way (fool proof)? I hope I am wrong in this case, but it currently appears to me to be the case?

Are you talking about this thread? https://forums.eagle.ru/forum/english/dcs-world-topics/input-and-output/thrustmaster-aa/221969-tm-cougar-sealed-magnetoresistive-hall-sensor-kits Because i cant find a thread labeled "magnetic sensors"? If that is the thread, no, those wont work for me.

OMG,,, I am dealing with a similar issue and I accidently found this thread. My issue is only with the "X" axis though (left-right).I always use manual calibration. The X axis only sticks to the left roll only, and it is NOT every time. Seems though if I gently push to the left it is more prone to NOT go back to center neutral. Any advice? Thanks,

Im back in the market again for a Hall Sensor for the Thrustmaster Cougar UBER 2. I forgot all about this thread. Does anyone know of any cheaper options other than the (~$100) Midori QP-2H/QP-2HC Hall 'angle' Sensors?

Thanks for the feedback. I had the same thought, so I took it all apart again to see if that was a possibility and found that the Hall Sensor has a flat spot in the shaft that lines mates to the gimbal shaft, so it appears that it can only go in one way only?

I have searched the forums for a SPECIFIC hall sensor for the UBER 2 MOD, I found a few sensors, but none that match the specific fit I need for my UBER 2 MOD from Ian Johnston. I cant see any part number on the sensor? Can anyone tell me where I can find a direct replacement? If not, Im probably going to sell both of my Cougars and get something new. Not sure if there is a market for them though? Thanks,

Do these hall sensors get stuck? I didn’t think they were capable, but I don’t really know? I just had to replace my springs in my Cougar HOTAS UBER 2, and I don’t know if it is just coincidence or not, but my ROLL axis gets hung up to the left Most, but not all, of the time? I have to apply force to the right to try and get it centered, sometimes I slap it around a little and it centers again fine. I have checked the spring installation and it looks fine. I did have to disassemble the Gimbels quite a bit to remove the spring posts, so there was some separation and re-install of the hall sensor shaft to the gimble. I made many calibrations with no change. I don’t know if hall sensor is now bad and can me sprayed down or what? Any thoughts? Thanks

Wow,, thats alot of pages there,,, I will look thru tomorrow,,, many thanks

Hey guys, I have the Thrustmaster Cougar HOTAS that is UBER Modded. If I need to replace just the joystick, and get one that is USB, and I still want to keep the throttle, can I? Since the Throttle plugs directly into the current joystick via a serial connection, how would I still be able to use the throttle if I replace the joystick it plus into? Thoughts? Thanks

I would be happy to. I have never done that before though. If someone would PM me and advise how to do so, or send me your email, I will send

Thank you sir! Outstanding work

I created a quick OVGME file for this, and it worked great! I jumped into a server that checks IC, and it passed.

McMaster Carr has a great selection. I just have to takes some measurements, but there is one choice that I would have no idea about, and that is the "Rate" & "Load". Anyone have a fair guess? https://www.mcmaster.com/springs/ext...h-hook-ends-7/ Oh boy, and music wire steel or spring tempered steel also?

MORE AWSUM! The 1st link is out of stock, the 2nd link will not ship to USA,,, now what?

Thanks, I was just steered to that by Lange (Thanks again Lange). Can you please follow up with me on my question in that thread sir? Thanks alot