digitaljjd

The Swiss wouldn't mind. It looks fun to be neutral. It also looks like the cockpit cam was in a Super Hornet.

Your preaching to the choir Speed. I'd be very happy with a C.

Hey EtherealN, you forgot four of the other more important optional accessories.

Thanks for the link, lots of good info, but I don't think you or Frostiken have to try to sell me or anyone else on a Super Hornet or an F-15E for that matter. They would both be blissful in DCS detail. :thumbup: I'd like a F-16 personally, but any of the above will do if I had a choice. I understand the dilemma of not being excited about a F/A-18C model when the cool factor could be much higher. I felt the same way about the A-10A announcement before they got approved to do a C.

:D

Well, when you put it that way...a 1.04 thrust-to-weight ratio would be nice. (note this is WSO, not pilot) My question is, if someone gave you a F/A-18C would you refuse to fly it because of the same reasons? The F-18C is probably next, and I'm kinda' glad since my friend borrowed my Janes F/A-18 years ago and never gave it back, so I missed out. I still to this day when out of gas, go...(switch to betty voice)...Bingo fuel, Bingo fuel (sound FX) dur-dee-dur-deet!

I wouldn't call it a mistake if I'm indeed thinking of the same thing, but signs do seem to point very strongly to a F-18C, but nothing is for sure until ED makes an announcement, which could be sometime off. To quote Wags, " For now, the only new development that is certain is the continued patching of A-10C, Nevada map, the Black Shark compatibility patch, and our military projects." I'd also have to venture a guess that ED will ride out at least one X-mas before saying anything else.

I almost had a freak out, after finally getting to the pause/break screen, the key didn't work. AHHHH!!!! I managed to wipe out my default keyboard while loading my 52 profile. Duh. It looks awesome and I didn't think it was possible to make the GAU-8 sound any better then it did, but this new sound engine makes it happen. Very nice.

Find a way to make it work. Get a larger desk or add a table, or even a folding tray. I remember when I first saw a real HOTAS here in the US in the early 90's and thought why in the hell would somebody need all that, the fact is I can't live without it now. It depends on what your flying. You don't need it so much with WWII or WWI flight sims, but with anything modern, I'd say it's a must. At the very least, I'd get a joystick with a twist rudder and a TrackIR. Trust me, you'll be very happy you did.(after you go through the pain in the ass of setting it up) I'm currently using an X52 Pro and Saitek Pro rudder pedals. P.S. All HOTAS's have their own quirks and/or problems, make sure to do some research before you intend to buy one. Here is a good start: http://www.simhq.com/_technology2/technology_094a.html

It surrounds us, it penetrates us, it binds the galaxy together does it? I don't doubt that as I have FC2, FC and LOMAC, and I can see the potential for a larger multiplayer online experience. All I'm saying is, I'm ready for something new, à la DCS. It doesn't matter what flavor, be it hornet or tomcat or eagle to savor...be it falcon or viper they both taste the same, as surely as spooky and spectre share an airframe. I'd rather have a ten thousand foot view from Nevada and a new fighter jet, then a Flaming Cliffs 3 in the LOMAC quartet. Wow, I think somebody put something extra in my coffee. It is an excellent series...I don't know, I might consider it. How can you have parts 1, 2, and 3, without 4?

I guess I'm one of the few people who is not in favor of this. I'd rather have another innovative DCS module then a fourth incarnation of the same simulation.

Insert groan here...however, as delays go, it makes perfect sense. I can't wait to have my ass clenching T-handles lit again, they seem to increase the stress level when your trying to avoid becoming a flaming lawn dart. Anyway, congratulations ED on the upcoming boxed versions and thanks for all the continued hard work!

I would say according to the specs of model "VPCEA16FA" that this would be your limiting factor for both KA-50 and A-10C: 500 GB (Serial ATA, 5400 rpm) Slower disk speeds translate into stuttering. You could get a faster hard drive, or even a super fast SSD, (not sure what SATA you have, probably 3.0Gb/s) but my guess is it should run as is. You'll most likely have to tweak it in between taking molds and adjusting braces until you find your happy median and put a frame rate cap on it in basically the same way as you did, or will do for Black Shark. Nothing to do but buy and try. :thumbup:

You'll probably have to cut one to be short, or find a flex shaft screwdriver small enough to fit. I'd buy a set like above, maybe two (pretty cheap) and cut one set's handles in half, or to their desired length. Then it's up to how much finger strength you have. Also be sure to make them short enough to allow room for the screws to back out. Last tip, one of my six screws liked to hang in the hole, there is nothing holding the top of the throttle together except the screws. It you think you have them all out and are unable to get it open, then you still have a screw hung. It will open very easy once they are all out.

I used a Stanley (66-052) 6-Piece Precision Screwdriver Set.

+1 What Sinky said. Use this program,(installer) to open this file, Program files/Eagle Dynamics/Ka-50/Config/graphics.cfg, Right click on graphics.cfg, select edit with notepad ++ go to line 404 Max FPS= *; (* change to desired number) go to file and save.(copying original and keeping as a back-up before changing is a good idea) You can also look at this tweak guide on BS for more info: http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=49434

Here is a guide to tweaking ATI Catalyst: http://www.tweakguides.com/ATICAT_1.html V sync is on page 8, but it's worth an entire read through.

Sure, I saw it here: http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=74071

LOL! Very true, but they work very well, have a good rep for service, you can get parts if you need to, and CH has excellent programming software from what I here. It's like the A-10, everybody says it's ugly, but I've always thought it was a very beautiful design, I've never seen the supposed "ugly" in it. CH may be a bit blan, but it's designed to be purely functional...that, and I don't want to have a closet full of HOTAS's that don't work for this or that reason. edit: Just read that HOTAS Warthog has a really crappy ministick. Why the hell is it so hard to get a solid ministick? I'd rather just have a 4-way hat that works.

Me too. I'll keep my Saitek Pro Rudder and 52 Pro until they die, but I think I'm going to go with CH products next time around. Hotas Warthog would be nice, but I have better things to put $400 toward.

I think unplugging it only recalibrates it, or is that only on a reboot? I used to be able to do that, but I'm afraid I was past that point, it had to be disabled all of the time. As for glue it might be possible but I doubt it, you'd have to put glue directly over the pathways, which is probably not a good idea. It has four nipples? that go through the mouse PCB (you can see two in the pic) that are supposed to keep it in place. My guess is it'll last a year or so before it moves again. It all depends on how much pressure you put on it. Now that the bastard rear screw is out, opening the top section alone is no problem now. I guess if you cut a short phillips or had a flex shaft screwdriver to fit the low clearence in the rear of the throttle handle, it would be really easy to check yours and/or correct it.

Just another quick note you'll need a small watchmaker sized screwdriver set, and possibly a solder iron and maybe a glue gun. I also was wise enough to leave the unreachable screw at the bottom base of the throttle handle out. 5 are plenty, and the next time I have to get into the mouse again,( I have a feeling the rubber pad will creep over again) I can just take out the five screws which are reachable with the smaller watch sized phillips, (#1 I think) without having to mess with taking the entire base apart again. Also for those who have not taken the throttle detent out, (very simple) don't forget to while it's open. I removed mine like 3 years ago?... and that is why I didn't mention it for those who are wondering, it's just a spring and a small plastic piece that you remove. Also, you might want to consider that your mouse has a different problem from mine, and what I did might not fix yours, which is very possible, however I think there is a good chance they all suffer from the same problem. The rubber pads are not held in place very well and will move/stretch out of place IMHO. Good luck.

Here is some inside info. The wire bundles are hot glued in places, and in order to get to that last screw in the back and bottom of the throttle handle to open it up...which is the only place I wanted to get to,(without dismounting the handle from the axle) I had to open it from bottom of the base by carefully remove two rubber pads to reveal 2 hidden screws in the corners,(total of 8 ) unseat the throttle,(pulling out axle yokes (2 more screws), tension knob (watch for rubber pad it will fall off), white lithium grease will get everywhere and I pulled out thee connectors on main PCB) so I could get the MFD out, but to do that you have to pull out the rotary PCB below the MFD which also seats and holds the two buttons, knobs and their 2 axle hubs in, so 2 knobs, 2 buttons, (reset goes on bottom) and 2 clear angled, orientation specific(take note of which end the rotary knob inserts into also, as they can be reversed incorrectly) plastic pieces fall out(axle hubs). Then you can pull the ribbon connector to the MFD out from the main PCB, and that comes apart in several pieces. The rear screen, LCD, and glass will separate. All that to have access to the the rear screw through the MFD hole, and it's still hard to get it out. If there is a next time I'll just pull it all apart completely. (some of the other PCB's are hot glued in place, easily removable, but I didn't want to have to break out the hot glue gun at the time) It would be easier then letting stuff hang off by wires. I didn't want to have to separate the throttle shaft from the axle, it just looked like a pain in the ass, but considering what I already had went through, it probably wouldn't have hurt anymore anyway. Also take note there are several different types of screws, so I would recommend when pulling apart to label duct tape and stick the screws on it in groups and fold over slightly, it'll be an extra step, but you will thank yourself come time for assembly. I couple notes, the axle hub screws for the throttle can't be too tight or it won't move freely, the same thing goes for the MFD rotaries, the 6 screws have to be loose enough to allow the click function, but tight enough to keep the 2 buttons high enough. Last bit of advice to those brave and stupid enough like me to go inside. The wires are very very very thin. Like super small gauge. If too much pressure is applied they will break from their solder points. I pulled the ground from the power on LED, or perhaps it was just barley on to begin with. Lastly, start on this in the morning, when you have plenty of time and excellent lighting. Do it at a table so you can sit, take pictures and label stuff. If you start to get aggravated, or when you start thinking why the hell did I do this? Take a break. You have the pictures to fall back on. It's better to take your time. One other thing I forgot to mention, the slider is attached to the mouse PCB, so you have to remove 2 screws to separate that from the mouse PCB, then 3 screws to remove the shroud holding the stick in place to get to the D-pad, and while doing that the smaller rotary wants to dislodge, it has cogs and gears that I didn't want to face really looking at at that point. Final bit of advice, make sure to seat the slider back into the slider knob before you close up and take note of where the wire bundles are so they are clear from slider operation. If I can think of anything else I'll make notes. I may need to refer to this myself later down the road. Also feel free to hit my rep up a point or two, if you found this info useful...I just noticed I got my first negative point last week from Wags of all people, claiming I had a lame post. :) I guess he was right, but now I still feel like I got in trouble and lost a gold star, and have to go sit in the corner or something. Too funny. Thanks Wags. Yes, that post was lame, but I hope this one can be considered anti-lame and they will cancel each other out.

I did the unthinkable and disassembled my X52 Pro throttle. I also fixed my mouse stick! The X52 is very complex and not for those without patience. I was reaching the limit of mine. The mouse stick is actually just a 4-way D-pad pressing device. What I think happens over time is the rubber starts to slip in a rotation axis up over the buttons making it drift as it begins to press down on the buttons. I noticed this when I reseated mine just the slightest bit. The prongs of the stick also had burrs on the ends so I filed those off, then I took a sec to snap a pic as proof. Word to the wise, just live without it and disable it in the device manager if yours is drifting too. I popped one of the many wires and had to do a quick solder job, but no biggie.

Has anyone that ever disassembled an X52 throttle remember how many contacts come from the ministick before I crack it open? I'm hoping it's 4. I may have found an easy replacement in the form of a Sony PSP thumb stick.