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This was suggested 6 years ago and still is a good idea. Make this part of rearm/refuel menu. Also for the Spitfire (and german planes?). This wouldn't break realism. Ground crew routinely switched crystals didn't they? Radio works in Hoggit training map I just confirmed (Spitfire and P51D, TF51D) but none of frequencies are particularly useful (Krymsk, Soganlug). I can only see the frequencies with the help of SRS radio overlay, which is fine, SRS cannot switch frequency in air or ground (also fine).

You can listen for them. Takes maybe 20-30 secs. I don't remember exactly. And no, this doesn't work so good with engine running (never even tried but ...). Engine off you can hear buzzing sound while flap actuator operates. Take a listen with a stop watch. You may need to turn up the volume. You can also go external mode and watch. Just verified this is possible. Click and hold Open or Close and then while holding mouse button hit F2 and rotate camera view with numpad keys so you can see flap move.

Sorry, forgot to include them. Stabilized at 332 Knots at about 700 feet after 5-10 minutes.

I changed it to only have the lua and the five modified files (from NAKE350's cockpit mod) in the directory (C:\Users\myusername\Saved Games\DCS\Liveries\Cockpit_Spitfire_LFMkIX\default) and edited Automan's "description.lua" file (by commenting out as you suggested). Works it seems and pass IC. But I found if I edited out the in Automan's "description.lua" the mirrror would show a blue/yellow cross so I didn't comment that line out. I expect the coin will drop eventually to why that is. The mirror is obviously different in that it can be an active surface. -Found this nice webpage to easily check Lua syntax (without having to learn Lua): https://www.tutorialspoint.com/execute_lua_online.php If EXECUTE shows no error syntax is (probably) correct. -The ubiquitous NotePad++ editor also color codes Lua syntax. -Found this Ed Forum thread: Tutorial: Introduction to Lua scripting.

Excluding a detailed description of what I did wrong I got it to work (online/offline, IC pass) by patterning after how the Su-25T cockpit english mod is structured. -I used "Spitfire Cockpit Reburb" -I copied and then modified (*1) the original DCS "Cockpit_Spitfire_LFMkIX_Textures.zip" zipfile archive located: with the files from "Spitfire Cockpit Reburb" (overwrote the five originals) -I placed the "description.lua" (automans version) in the folder together with _all_ the unzipped files (*2) from the modified "Cockpit_Spitfire_LFMkIX_Textures.zip". I also tried unsuccessfully to place only the modified files from "Spitfire Cockpit Reburb" (as it appears how the Su-25T mod is done) into this folder. Didn't work but your question 4) implies the answer to how to make that work. Note, the original "Cockpit_Spitfire_LFMkIX_Textures.zip" is untouched. Therefore I can switch between the original Spitfire textures or the modified textures by simply moving the entire "Cockpit_Spitfire_LFMkIX" folder structure in or out of ~ You can do that? Makes sense. Thanks, I will certainly explore this. ~ *1) Modifying a zipfile is very easy with Windows Explorer. No need for command line procedures as I've seen suggested in other ED Forum threads. Just a) doubleclick the zipfile b) copy files to add/replace into the expanded archive. c) done *2) Tested to place the zipped (not unzipped) archive here. Didn't work.

I copied description.lua to: "\Saved Games\DCS\Liveries\Cockpit_Spitfire_LFMkIX\default" Integrity Check (IC) passes but I get the yellow black texture missing online and offline. Removing "\Cockpit_Spitfire_LFMkIX\default" folders texture works offline but I can't go Multiplayer because IC fails.

Thought the lights would drain the battery and hence it didn't make sense that they couldn't be shut off with less than unscrewing the battery terminal. One can see how the throttle push on the switch when moved forward. Had to check if this was a battery on/off switch. It's not. What else runs on electricity? The gunsight, the fuel gauge and the radio. None of which is connected through this switch. They must all be shut off separately.

1) Why does A-10A pitch shift when selecting cannon in Air to ground mode. Why does this happen? It's NOT when shooting the cannon. Just hitting 'C' to select cannon causes pitch down with cannon selected and pitch up if 'C' hit again (deselecting cannon). Only happens in Air to Ground mode. 2) Max airspeed below 1000 feet, clean (no flaps, no ordinance, 7000 lbs fuel) seems slow. Is it? 3) Why does the HUD ladder shift to right or left when flying? What does this indicate?

I wondered about this, been looking for the off switch etc ... The landing gear and fuel pressure lamps remain on draining battery. In spawn they're off. For practical purposes, few are the scenarios (I think) when you want to park the spit for a few hours and be able to start it up again (without ground power).

After each disassembly/reassembly one should recalibrate the Joystick. Noticed something new today. When calibration program (version 1.13) says: Move Joystick SLOWLY to reach up Then press "SPACE" do exactly that. Do not wiggle sideways. I used to wiggle sideways to get to the absolute max positions. I found I had to wiggle sideways in Device Analyzer also to get to 0 and 65535. I was still happy because I did get to 0 and 65535. But don't wiggle sideways. Just move it slowly up to stop and hit space. If one thinks about it. There is no concept of X and Y axis, either mechanically or for the Hall sensor. How you move the stick when calibrating is what you get. Doing exactly what the programs says, I get straight to 0 and 65535 in the four directions while previously I didn't. ~ If 1.13 isn't the latest calibration program I'm interested in any later version. Reading these forums, it cannot be downloaded from Thrustmaster. Version 1.13 here is from another member who uploaded it in 2011. TM Joystick Calibration tool 1.13.rar

I was thinking of using my thumbnails to get the O ring off and leave the circlip in place (just a little afraid of damaging it). Because of the jumping thing, and my thick mat, I know for a fact I would never find it if it jumped here. Hence I prefer to leave it in place. Have a couple of lock ring pliers but none small enough anyway.

Worked when I tried again today. No idea why it didn't work yesterday. Ed/add Found out why. Drop Tank will only drop if drop tank fuel cock (right of pilots seat) is set to off.

I received a replacement CMS switch and instructions from TM on how to install it. Hotas_Warthog_joystick_handle_Exchange_CMS_SWITCH.pdf Instructions suggests in Step 3 to use "needle nosed pliers" to remove the rubber ring and circlip: Needle noose pliers seems blunt to use for this and might leave scratches. The rubber ring seems easier to remove and if this is removed does the circlip need to be removed? Because the rubber ring end is to be pushed in according to TM instructions (Step 4). Anyone disassembled the pinkie switch and what tools did you use? If I use a jewelers screwdriver as one video suggests I fear destroying the rubber ring and leave scratches. Found video of joystick disassembly but no details for removing the rubber ring or circlip. Bad quality video of CMS switch replacement (what I want to do). https://drive.google.com/file/d/1u3Vo0s-3NDh6sufjED5b1ksXqD56X2jx/view Hotas_Warthog_joystick_handle_Exchange_CMS_SWITCH.pdf

I believe version 1.13 is the latest (for Joystick). Found here: https://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=1293634&postcount=36 Earlier versions of the calibration tools can be found in that thread. I do believe I found both Throttle and Joystick calibration tools from TM in that thread. I used 1.13 and it works. Also tried earlier versions that also worked (1.11?) before reading up to post #36 in the thread.

Landing bay doors and flaps rise up when the Merlin starts up and produces hydraulic pressure. So flaps and doors should drop when engine is turned off and hydraulic pressure lost, right? I spawned on RWY, shut off the engine, pulled the red "Landing Gear Fairing Door Emergency Release Handle" and the hydraulic pressure gauge dropped to zero. Then I waited 5 hours to find the flaps and doors still up. ~ Tested for science. Doors and flaps starts go up as soon as the propeller spins. Ignition off, just the starter engine will do this. Doors go up quickly, flaps much slower.

Jettison Drop Tank work with mouse click on Drop Tank handle but not by keyboard command. Mouse click the Drop Tank handle makes it rise and fall back on click release, Drop Tank falls. Keyboard command: LShift + LCtrl + T, Drop Tank handle rises but does not not fall back on keys release. Drop Tank doesn't fall. Ed/add Worked when I tried again, today. No idea why it didn't work yesterday. Ed/add2 Reason is droptank only falls if drop tank fuel cock is off NOT A BUG. Moderator feel free to delete all this thread. Or add [NOT A BUG] to title. I would if I could.

Speaking of drop tanks. Jettison Drop Tanks seems to work with mouse click on handle but not by keyboard command. If I mouse click on the (red) Drop Tank handle it will rise and fall back when I release mouse click. Drop tank falls. If I do the keyboard command. LShift + LCtrl + T it will rise but not fall back on releasing keys. Drop Tank doesn't fall. Doing LShift + LCtrl + T twice, handle will still stay raised. Known error or am I missing something?

Can I get them back somehow? They really are immensely helpful in the Spitfire. Didn't even notice in other planes. Ed/add Respawn Hoggit map. No clouds even at first. Left server and rejoined, respawned. Still no cirrus clouds even at initial spawn before F2 F4, ESC or doing anything. ed/add2 Oh wait. It took a minute. Ed/add3 If I wait a couple of minutes they'll come back. I don't always loose clouds on F10, F2 or F4. I don't know if I do anything special to loose them or make them come back. Like watching boiled water, suddenly they're back. I think my low performance system is the reason. It takes a while to load and reload things.

How does that relate to Spitfire you may ask? Context: Multiplayer Hoggit training map. Also loose cirrus when going to Adjust controls and return. Spitfire is tricky with good resolution and good fps. I have neither. Having a reference point to look at on takeoff is very helpful. To see swerves early.

Just posted this: https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=232924 I wanted this in the Thrustmaster folder. Don't know why it didn't end up there. How to make it show in the Thrustmaster folder instead of the generic Input/Output folder? I wanted to add in suitable tags. Can tags be edited in? I wanted delete thread, reenter it with appropriate tags.Can thread be deleted? I very much appreciate the usefulness of tags. Where can i find lists of suggestions for appropriate tags? Every person just making them up isn't a good idea obviously.

Button 15 (15,16,17,18,19) in the CMS switch assembly on the Warthog became erratic (2 months after delivery). To their credit TM are sending a replacement CMS switch within 24 hours of my first email to TM Support. The CMS switch assembly (not my pic): I would like to replace the actual micro switch within the CMS switch and then I'll have a spare CMS assembly (as in pic above). Anyone taken apart the CMS assembly, taken pictures of it, or know what micro switches are used? I found this thread talking about switches but not the CMS switch. I used to work in electronics and am quite familiar with a distributor. Looking for for example a "12mm tactile switch" (as indicated in linked thread) I find 64 different "12mm tactile switch" on their website with prices starting at 27 cents a piece (!) (2.47 SEK). But I'm looking for a micro switch within the CMS assembly that I don't know what it looks like yet. I will take pictures but if someone already knows how to take the CMS switch assembly apart I'd appreciate tips (pictures).

Just noticed. The micro mouse on the throttle was connected to 'pitch' and 'roll'.

It's a Warthog, joystick + throttle. I searched for calibration before this problem occurred and found this: " Can You Calibrate Warthog?" thread: https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=65901 Summary: Thrustmaster doesn't have a calibration program on their web sites but sent a calibration programs to 'quinncidence' when he asked for it and it solved his problem. Thread is 7 years old. Maybe those calibration program from TM are still fine, maybe they are not. I need to read that entire thread. Calibration programs (one for throttle + one for joystick) are included in thread courtesy 'quinncidence'. In Microsoft Joystick test ("Set up USB game controllers" -> properties -> test) it's one pixel short of getting the same range up and left as down and right. No flickering. There's an calibration option with Microsoft that I hesitate to use for now until I understand it better. I've seen "don't use Microsoft calibration" for MFG Crosswind for example. In TM TARGET script editor "Device Analyzer" I get the full 0-65535 in both axes. No flickering. I trust TMs test more. It seems to work now so I don't touch it for now.

Something like that occurred to me. I deleted the keys (left, right, up, down) in DCS "ADJUST CONTROLS" but nothing changed. I put the keys back again. For some reason it disappeared. No other joystick is connected except the Warthog throttle. Interestingly the stick was also micro twitching (small movements) while centered. That is also not happening now. I like to think, I do think this caused a bunch of my crashes. There this weird, I could start and land reasonably well, reprogrammed the Warthog (inside from DCS) and suddenly I could barely takeoff or land without crashing. I reset the "ADJUST CONTROLS" settings twice now, starting over thinking I screwed something up in programming the "ADJUST CONTROLS". One specific time, this definitely must have been it. I had taken off but suddenly TF51 nosed down, I pulled the stick back, it rose again, then few seconds later it nosed down again, repeat a few times and I crashed. Seemed I didn't have rudder err elevator authority to keep the noose up. Now thinking about it, this flicking to center could have caused this if there wasn't enough up trim to keep the noose up with stick centered.

Now it stopped doing this. Have no idea what happened or why. Looked at it in "Device Analyzer" analyzer again before it stopped and again the joystick looked solid in Device Analyzer". Some software was confused somewhere I guess.