

-0303-
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Does the night flying U/C blind look right?
-0303- replied to -0303-'s topic in DCS: Spitfire L.F. Mk. IX
Neither did I, assigned the wrong key to the throttle switch (wanting to be able to shut off *everything* battery connected). Never seen before.- 10 replies
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It doesn't look right to me. Does it look like this to everyone? Has it always looked like this? Normal and blind pulled down. The blind looks like a graphic glitch. No key assigned. Front dash category: U/C Indicator Blind
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After finding out how to extract images from a PDF and create new bitmaps I then tried to reinsert an edited image into a flight manual pdf. I placed an image and corresponding drop shadow (same dimensions, two bitmaps) inside a pdf using "Replace Image" action in both "ApowerPDF" and "PDF-XChange Editor" for the same result. Shadows in lower right corner are longer than shadows in the upper left corner. As if the shadow-drop map has been stretched and have different dimensions from the image. What is happening? Merging the bit maps in GIMP looks fine. Image merged in GIMP. Drop shadows are fine (equal all page). Same two bitmaps inserted into Flight Manual. Drop shadows elongates towards lower right corner.
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So I found a good way to extract images from a PDF and then create new bitmaps with selectable resolution (suitable for reinsertion into PDF): import PDF to Inkscape export SVG from Inkscape import SVG to GIMP (where choosing DPI allows limitless choice of resolution) Inkscape Step by step: "open file" CTRL + O, choose PDF file "PDF import Settings": Select PDF page no and select Poppler "ungroup" Rightclick high on canvas (to include all objects I think), chose "ungroup" (make sure no "ungroup"ed is left) Select the object(s) to export "Resize page to drawing or selection" (File → Document Properties) or Ctrl + Shift + R "Invert selection" (Edit → Invert selection) or !, and Del all other objects. "Save As" with Ctrl + Shift + S, choose name and save GIMP step by step "open file" CTRL + O, choose SVG file "Resolution" select DPI (higher number, higher resolution), hit RETURN Done, object(s) is on transparent canvas Going by way of Inkscape is better than direct import of PDF to GIMP because Inkscape allows choice of which object(s) (one or more) to import whereas GIMP takes every object on the pdf page every time.
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Page 178 in manual. I was extracting here: pdf to jpg. I've since discovered that GIMP can import PDF directly. GIMP asks for pixels / inch when importing. Setting it to 600 I get a beautiful smooth picture. GIMP has a problem though. There's the image and there's a second image, a drop-shadow. For some reason GIMP merges them instead of doing the sensible thing and giving me both. I found a workaround. I opened the PDF in an PDF editor (freePDF-XChange), deleted the drop shadow and saved the PDF. Opening it again in GIMP, I get a white-background clean image, without drop-image 3D effect. I've never edited PDF's before. I've just realized that PDF operates with vectors, only bitmaps when it has to. I noted when I asked GIMP to save a PDF it wanted to "convert as much as possible to vectors". If you know good ways (free software) to edit PDF's I'm interested (like extracting images). I know I can do what I want to do now, using GIMP, but there may be easier ways to do it.
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I wanted to edit a graphic flaw in the F-86F Flight manual PDF (using only free software). Any method I've found to extract the image, the image is pixelated. Comparison: Left: Original image in pdf reader magnified 1600% (Ignore drop shadow) Small inset: Original image in pdf reader at normal viewing magnification 100%. Right: Modified (added red dot) reinserted image in PDF reader magnified 1600% The diagonal edges are smooth in original, but pixelated after replacing the image inside the pdf. More precisely, any image I manage to extract from the pdf with any method I found is pixelated. True, the pixelation is hard to see un-magnified but the result is a degradation (and texts becomes less legible). What I did: I extracted the image from the pdf. Added a single red spot to identify the changed image. Changed image within the PDF using the free ApowerPDF editor with the "replace image" command. I get the same pixelated extracted image using either an online webpage (pdf to jpg) or using the free freePDF-XChange pdf editor to extract images from the pdf. ApowerPDF editor don't allow image extractions. I don't think I get a 'bad' image, I think filtering is applied somewhere within the PDF format that I need to activate. Is this what's is happening? Could I apply some filter on the image before adding it to the PDF to make it look better? ~ What I want to do is to edit an image within the pdf, however so slightly, and have it look as nice and un-pixelated as the original.
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Found a DC loading chart. "Surface control alternate system return and supply valve at 0.7 Ampere" second from top in list, must be the Alternate System Transfer Valve. And no 6 from top is the Normal System Transfer Valve (it shuts off when the alternate open (and vice versa), therefore called "bypass" here?). Everything else on that list has another explanation (that makes sense). So the lamp is 4.76W/170mA and the solenoid is 19.6W/700mA The valve will not move (that would be insane to have the push lamp control the valve *1), but the lamp will shine (I'm pretty sure). Figure 7-4. D-C Loading Chart Sheet (2 of 2) page 467 (pdf 473) "F-86F Flt Manual + perf data" NO. ----------EQUIPMENT-------------MAX---MAX-POWER, REQ.D--------------------------------AMPS--WATTS The first at 48.5 Amp is the alternate system hydraulics pump of which the flight manual says it'll drain the battery in 6-7 min without functioning generator. So lose the generator and you have 6-7 min of controllable airplane? *1) The schematics say when you push the ALTERNATE TO push-test lamp it will connect in series with the Alternate Transfer valve (with the same polarity as when it's normally operated). It'll get max 170 mA since the lamp limits the current, it needs 700 mA so 170/700, it gets 24 %. ~ Ed/add. Lamp has 165 ohm (28 / 0.17) Solenoid has 40 ohm (28 / 0.7) It'll be voltage dividing. 28 x 165 / (40+165). Lamp gets 22.5 V, current is 137 mA (28 / (40+165)).
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[REPORTED] Exhaust Flame bug fixed in 2.5.5.32299!
-0303- replied to Shahdoh's topic in Bugs and Problems
Possibly the easiest, simplest way to make a film. Just hit Win + G on any Win 10 program. This starts the built in Win 10 Game Bar Recorder. How I made all films in this thread. No need to install anything. Possibly may need to record on replay because Game Bar gets keyboard focus (made me taxi over the edge of the Stennis Carrier after my first unscathed Spitfire carrier landing ...) I do mean ANY Win 10 program, just tested hitting Win + G on Sumatra PDF reader, works fine. -
I edited in this near top to my largish post. Found the lamp! AN3121-313 Can order it from Walmart ... or Amazon. Googling "AN3121-313" gives lots of aeropart firm hits. Ironically only Amazon and Walmart gives technical info. P = U x I 4.76 = 28 x I I = 170 mA as Walmart says. From "f-86f illustrated parts breakdown.pdf" page 2-342 & 2-342A (pdf 394-395) (again thanks drPhibes). The hydraulic Transfer Valves must be in there somewhere also. Panel (see 37): Se 37 in parts list and note lamp "AN3121-313".
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This is not advanced electronics in any way. It's switches, it's mostly about having the patience to figure out what happens and why. I did work for a decade and a half in electronics, years ago (I'm always vague on personal details on the internet). I seem to remember coils are DC short circuits. But there was never much reason to measure coils (for me). I did look a lot for short circuits, much more to find connections from the schematics in the actual hardware, than to find actual faulty short circuits. Again, I think I vaguely remember, coils were annoying in that they registered as short circuit even if there wasn't one. I have a solder iron, a multi-meter and a small breadboard laying around (I even have an oscilloscope, from the 70's, got it real cheap, but working last I checked). If I can find an old broken phone to find a coil and a diode, maybe I could show that a lamp would shine. But don't count on it.
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A shorter version of my previous post. In NORMAL boost hydraulic mode. Red is battery and primary bus connected to pin 3 of push lamp. Green is grounding connected to pin 1 of push lamp. Grounding through the ALTERNATE SYSTEM TRANSFER VALVE solenoid coils and the AUTOMATIC RETURN-TO-NORMAL PRESSURE SWITCH grounds the solenoid as long as Alternate pressure is nominal. Also, if in ALTERNATE hydraulic mode, lamp should go dark if pushed (see previous post). ~
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The numbering and lettering references on manual page 178 is about 80% wrong. For starters Normal and Alternate reservoirs are switched. I edited out my corrected page because: a) Original was even more erroneous than I noticed. Reference 8 for example is not identical both sides. I could swallow left side not having double bottles until I noticed both are referenced "8" when they actually are different. b) I want to make my correction 100 % consistent in only using naming/spelling from the original "T.O. 1F-86F-1" document. Edit edit: The F-86F-35 version actually does have a single bottle both sides (as opposed earlier 'block no') but they are still not the same or correctly referenced. Updated newfound errors: alternate return I'll just leave the (updated) errors and the "T.O. 1F-86F-1" document. Errors: Multiple F-86 docs uploaded by drPhibes 5 years ago. F-86F Flt Manual + perf data.pdf (pdf 46)
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[REPORTED] Exhaust Flame bug fixed in 2.5.5.32299!
-0303- replied to Shahdoh's topic in Bugs and Problems
I downgraded to earlier DCS version post#4 without changing anything. Earlier version had flames. I'd like to to know how many more have this bug? -
Just got the F-86F and was immediately irked by the non-functional 'Push-to-Test' of the ALTERNATE ON lamp. I've read this thread and looked at the schematics. Why did North American bother drawing all three lamp connections if the push test is non functional? Looking at the schematics I think Push-to-Test should work in NORMAL hydraulic boost mode. It also should work (except inverted, lamp goes out when pushed) in ALTERNATE hydraulic boost mode. Refer fig 2-26 "f-86f maintenance handbook". ALTERNATE ON lamp pin numbers according to schematics (symbol chart): Two situations, NORMAL and ALTERNATE boost mode. NORMAL mode. Pin 3 is 24/28V (connected to both battery and primary bus) and pin 1 is grounded through the ALTERNATE SYSTEM TRANSFER VALVE operating coil and through the AUTOMATIC RETURN-TO-NORMAL PRESSURE SWITCH. The paired pressure switches will connect to ground as long as the alternate system pressure is nominal (high). A small question mark here. I assume the solenoid coil DC resistance of the ALTERNATE SYSTEM TRANSFER VALVE is low enough (zero?) for the lamp to shine. By pressing Push-to-Test (connecting pin 3) one actually sends current through the ALTERNATE SYSTEM TRANSFER VALVE going through the lamp (pin 3 to pin 1). But it's a safe bet, I think, that the current limiting resistor in the lamp reduces current to a trickle, not enough to move the Transfer Valve (but the lamp will shine). Searching the internet for DC coil resistance: The only question for me is: Will the lamp shine if put in series with the Transfer Valve solenoid coil to ground? Yes, I think it will. Ed/add: Think about this. Think about how much current (a lot) the heavy operating hydraulics solenoid coil swallows then 28 V is applied to it. Think about putting a lamp in series with this. Think the lamp would not shine? I don't know what kind of lamp the push lamp is/was but I'm pretty sure it would be current limiting. The lamp would limit the current to not burn up itself. P = U x I. Imagine lamp is 3 W. 3 = 28V x I, I = 107 mA. If the coil was 20 W it would draw 714 mA. ALTERNATE mode. Pin 2 is ground (through the AUTOMATIC RETURN-TO-NORMAL PRESSURE SWITCH, pin 1 is 24/28V making the lamp shine. When pushed, pin 3 (24/28V) gets connected. Now the lamp gets 24/28 V in both ends (pin 3 and pin 1) and should go dark. Neither of those things happen in the simulation. Fig 2-26 (page 96, pdf 102) "f-86f maintenance handbook" and fig 1-24 (page 1-36, pdf 46) "F-86F Flt Manual + perf data". Both uploaded by drPhibes. ~ Here's the long version (not kidding), where I recounts things I figured out before arriving at summation above. Note, throughout this text I bold (and follow capitalization of) direct schematics quotes (all quotes from fig 2-26 unless otherwise specified). Everything can be read from the figure 2-26 schematics but it was very helpful looking at the overview (figure 1-24) to get the big picture. Fig. 1-24 makes it clear that the default (spring loaded) unoperated state of the two solenoid TRANSFER VALVEs is NORMAL SYSTEM open and ALTERNATE SYSTEM closed. One can also see that a single electric line energizes or de-energizes both TRANSFER VALVEs and the ALTERNATE TO lamp simultaneously. Ed/add: Note, the "single line" is a little different in reality on schematic 2-26. Both Transfer Valves and the lamp are hard tied together, but this is on the side that only ever gets grounded (by the AUTOMATIC RETURN-TO-NORMAL PRESSURE SWITCH), not energized. The lamp and both Transfer Valves are also connected on the positive side except the Normal Transfer Valve coil can be broken up by a switch (FLIGHT CONTROL) and then reconnected by a second switch (NORMAL SYSTEM PRESSURE SWITCHES). Nominally the Normal Transfer Valve positive side coil is connected to the lamps and the Alternate Transfer Valve coil positive side except for very brief periods of transition between different switch configurations. The bigger point the "single line" conveys is that nominally both Transfer valves acts in concert, they are either both actuated or both are not actuated. I needed to look up some terms for figure 1-24. I made assumptions about which pressure switch operates on pressure rise and which operates on pressure fall. This probably can be read on the schematics (with a magnifying glass:(). There's three pressure switches. Top to bottom (figure 1-24, names from figure 2-26 unless otherwise noted): ALTERNATE PUMP CONTROL PRESSURE SWITCH feedbacks to ALTERNATE SYSTEM PUMP (on fig 1-24 named ELECTRIC-MOTOR-DRIVEN ALTERNATE PUMP). This switch closes on alternate system pressure fall. It simply maintains alternate system pressure. ~ AUTOMATIC RETURN-TO-NORMAL PRESSURE SWITCH, opens on ALTERNATE SYSTEM pressure fall. This will disconnect ground from both Transfer Valves and the ALTERNATE ON lamp. Both Transfer Valves goes back to spring loaded defaults (NORMAL open, ALTERNATE closed) and the ALTERNATE ON lamp goes out. The system switches to NORMAL SYSTEM hydraulics. ~ NORMAL SYSTEM PRESSURE SWITCHES closes on NORMAL SYSTEM pressure fall. This will energize both Transfer Valves and the ALTERNATE ON lamp. System switches to ALTERNATE SYSTEM hydraulics. If switch to ALTERNATE SYSTEM is initiated by flipping the FLIGHT CONTROL cockpit switch, then NORMAL SYSTEM TRANSFER VALVE operates immediately which in turn sequentially causes NORMAL SYSTEM pressure fall triggering this pressure switch to close and thereby energize the ALTERNATE SYSTEM TRANSFER VALVE and the ALTERNATE TO lamp. ~ Finally getting to the lamp (ALTERNATE TO), well almost ... First, a pedagogical generic Push-to-Test lamp design: It has 3 connections (NORMAL, TEST & COM) very similar (identical I think) to the F-86F PUSH-TO-TEST lamp: Figure 10-4. Electrical and Electronic Symbol Chart (Sheet 2 of 4)" page 680 (pdf 686) "f-86f maintenance handbook”, “LAMPS”. Note the “R” in this symbol chart just indicates color (red). ALTERNATE ON lamp is marked “A” for amber. Gauging from the no of colors listed on the symbol chart but not used on the instrument panel, was F-86F initially LGBT?:suspect:. I take the "TEST" connection on both the generic Push-to-Test lamp and the F-86F PUSH-TO-TEST lamp as the same pin, both serving the actual Push-to-Test functionality. Then pin 1. COMMON and pin 2. CONTROL are normally connected through the lamp (unpushed). Pin 1 and pin 3 would connect to the lamp when pushed. This is consistent with how another F-86F push test lamp works; the RUDDER TRIM & TAKE-OFF INDICATOR lamp, figure 2-21 (page 88, pdf 94) "f-86f maintenance handbook". Here pin 3 is hard grounded and pin 1 is hard tied to 28V primary bus. Assuming pin 3 has the push test functionality, the push test would function. Looking at the lamp on the schematics (fig 2-26) there's one connection going left (pin 2. CONTROL), one going right (pin 1. COMMON) and one going straight up (pin 3. TEST). Pin 2 ------ Pin 2 is normally grounded via the AUTOMATIC RETURN-TO-NORMAL PRESSURE SWITCH (two switches in parallel). It remains grounded as long as the ALTERNATE SYSTEM pressure is nominal (high) and disconnects from ground only when this pressure drops. Pin 2 is also hard tied to both NORMAL SYSTEM TRANSFER VALVE and ALTERNATE SYSTEM TRANSFER VALVE solenoid coils. The AUTOMATIC RETURN-TO-NORMAL PRESSURE SWITCH grounds both Transfer Valves solenoid coils and the lamp when closed. Pin 1 ------ Pin 1 is hard tied to the ALTERNATE SYSTEM TRANSFER VALVE non-grounded side solenoid coil. It is also connected to NORMAL SYSTEM TRANSFER VALVE non-grounded side solenoid coil except for brief moments when the switch to ALTERNATE SYSTEM is initiated by the cockpit FLIGHT CONTROL switch. In the latter situation, the tied together pin 1 and ALTERNATE SYSTEM TRANSFER VALVE (non-ground side) are free floating until the NORMAL SYSTEM PRESSURE SWITCHES closes due to pressure drop. Pin 3 ----- Pin 3 is always hard tied to 24/28V (unless a circuit breaker pops). The ALTERNATE TO lamp will shine (pin 1 positive, pin 2 grounded) whenever ALTERNATE SYSTEM TRANSFER VALVE is energized because the lamp is hard tied in parallel with the Valve coil. The ALTERNATE TO lamp will also shine (I maintain) when pushed-to-test in NORMAL hydraulic mode. This because the Push-to-Test pin 3 is hard tied to 24/28V and pin 1 is grounded as I lay out up top in summation, through the ALTERNATE SYSTEM TRANSFER VALVE operating coil and through the AUTOMATIC RETURN-TO-NORMAL PRESSURE SWITCH. The ALTERNATE TO lamp will go dark if pushed while ALTERNATE SYSTEM is active. This because (again as layed out up top) pin 1 is 24/28V and pin 3 is also 24/28V. Some random observations -------------------------- Switching electrically to ALTERNATE SYSTEM is only ever possible while ALTERNATE SYSTEM pressure is nominal (high enough)) because the AUTOMATIC RETURN-TO-NORMAL PRESSURE SWITCH won't ground the Transfer Valves coils (both + the lamp) if it isn't. Switching mechanically to ALTERNATE SYSTEM is always possible by pulling the ALTERNATE HYDRAULIC SYSTEM OVERRIDE SWITCH. This will mechanically pull both Transfer valves and connect Battery to ALTERNATE SYSTEM PUMP (manual "if without generator ... run down the battery in 6-7 minutes" <ouch>. The ALTERNATE SYSTEM TRANSFER VALVE can only ever be energized by the closing of the NORMAL SYSTEM PRESSURE SWITCHES. Meaning a switch to the ALTERNATE system requires a pressure drop in the NORMAL system. A pressure drop in the NORMAL system can happen in least three ways: 1) NORMAL system gets damaged. 2) Engine RPM is low and vigorous stick jerking "uses up" available NORMAL system pressure. 3) The FLIGHT CONTROL switch (in cockpit) is switched from NORMAL to ALTERNATE. This closes the NORMAL SYSTEM TRANSFER VALVE and pressure drops. (Cockpit) First flipping FLIGHT CONTROL to RESET is required to change from ALTERNATE to NORMAL. On RESET both Transfer Valves looses power and starts going to spring loaded defaults. RESET must remain a small amount of time to allow Transfer Valves to go to defaults and let NORMAL pressure rise and ALTERNATE pressure fall until they affect pressure switches. Figure 2-27 is identical to figure 2-26 except system is shown in ALTERNATE mode. Chart reading. Crossed lines with little circles are connected (otherwise, not).
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[REPORTED] Exhaust Flame bug fixed in 2.5.5.32299!
-0303- replied to Shahdoh's topic in Bugs and Problems
No startup flames even in the dark. The small ones while running is something different. -
I'm looking to post a long post with multiple images. I would like to avoid having to re-scale every picture to appropriate size manually. This image for example is to large: The image is to small for the automatic size reduction resulting in: "This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized Y x X". I would want it smaller without having to do this manually (again, I have a lots of pictures). 1-2 pictures manually, fine, 10-12, rather not. It would be really convenient (as some boards can) to easily, quickly and even interactively, edit the size of each picture as it is shown when posted. Again, some boards have this functionality, has this board this functionality? I have found this old thread.I don't think it describes what I want to do. https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=77344&highlight=resize
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It's not just the ASI. The altimeter changes simultaneously, it can instantly gain or lose 1000 feet+. I'm not sure if the VSI acts correctly (or in concert). Something that could account for this. A common reference air pressure intake. A certain glider I know have a common reference static air pressure intake in the tail supplying the ASI, Altimeter and two VSIs (four instruments). When flying slow and turning as tight as possible, this static pressure intake gets in the shadow of the wing and becomes turbulent. Long story shorter, in this specific situation, all four static air pressure dependent instruments goes apeshit. They (ASI, VSIs & Altimeter) stutter synchronously with maybe 10 Hz frequency and a small amplitude. Not exactly how the Spitfire instruments act, yet similar in that multiple instruments are affected synchronously. Something like this is plausible for affecting all air pressure dependent instruments (altimeter, ASI and maybe also Spitfire VSI). An hypothesis, assuming the best efforts of DCS programmers. They have modeled the instruments to the best of their ability (including a common air pressure intake), and this is the result they get. The fact both ASI and altimeter acts synchronously indicates that the modeling equations have them connected. When flying fast (even a glider that Vmax at a relatively slow 170 mph) you don't jerk the stick. The G forces are felt instantly. Breathe on the stick (pitch wise) and you'll feel it in your spine. In an armchair with a joystick on your desktop otoh, you feel nothing and and you jerk the stick in a way you never would in real life and this causes air intake pressure differences (admittedly this assumes air pressures intakes are modeled to a possibly ridiculous detail). It would be convenient if the Spitfire had a G meter. The P51 has a G meter and as an experiment one could try never moving the stick more than resulting 0.5 - 1.5 G and compare how one moves the stick not watching the G meter. Note the difference between deliberately applying high G force and just flying normally. 2G, for example, is very noticeable in real life and 'normally' turning, climbing & diving you never apply this, unless you feel like it. I think (not having stared at the glider G meter) normally it's even less than +-0.5G. I struggle with this obvious bug, not being fixed for so long, so maybe it isn't strictly a bug. Or not a bug that can be fixed without compromises. ~ Edited sentences and wording for clarity "static", I just remembered the terminology for this glider intake was "static"
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[REPORTED] Exhaust Flame bug fixed in 2.5.5.32299!
-0303- replied to Shahdoh's topic in Bugs and Problems
Uh... Did you watch the videos? Flames. No flames. Huge difference. They are seen in daylight in real life as shown by last video (if anything even more prominent in real life in daylight). They have always been as visible as in last video in previous versions. Same time, same place, same angle. Even if they were visible at some lower light conditions, they are much much to weak. -
[REPORTED] Exhaust Flame bug fixed in 2.5.5.32299!
-0303- replied to Shahdoh's topic in Bugs and Problems
fxo and metashaders2 deleted (under saved Games/DCS). No difference. Flames not working. To provoke flames just do prime 10-15 times instead of recommended 5. Note real life instructions not verbatim, "if flames, keep turning over until engine catches or flames are out", to avoid carburetor fire. Current Open Beta DCS 2.5.5.32299 Open Beta A previous Open Beta (now stable) DCS 2.5.4.30386 Open Beta Works. But interesting, the first second of flames looks the same as non working above. Is there two layers, one underlying illumination and flames outside, of which the latter is wrongly placed/doesn't work? ~ Real thing. -
I am running Open Beta. Folder name doesn't say so because I used Updater to go from Stable to Open Beta (a long time ago). I was running 2.5.5.32299 Open Beta before downgrading. Note 2.5.4.30386 is also Open Beta (or was). I see 2.5.4.30386 is now Stable. ~ Wait ... Now I get it. Doing Chugging away, seems to work. Of course. Now the @openbeta versus @release makes sense.
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I downgraded temporarily to verify Spitfire flame bug. Did this: It downgraded as it should but when I tried to upgrade back to latest version using this: I get popup 2.5.4.30386 is not last version. Last version is 2.5.5.32299 Trying: gets:
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[REPORTED] Exhaust Flame bug fixed in 2.5.5.32299!
-0303- replied to Shahdoh's topic in Bugs and Problems
No, it's not. Shimmering lower right cockpit near fuel gauge seems gone (if it was related). No flames. -
Confirm. Still happens.
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closed Storm of War - DCS WWII / Historical Server
-0303- replied to philstyle's topic in Multiplayer
This video Storm of War - DCS WW2 - Modpack [time 1:31] states there is modpack to download. There's nothing there. Is is elsewhere? -
Because I'm a retard. I didn't read up carefully enough on fxo & metashaders and only deleted "fxo" & "metashaders2" under "Saved Games". I think it's fixed now after deleting three folders: Also did which I don't know if it was necessary. Cleanup and Repair. Note, it's Open Beta even if folder name doesn't say so. ~ EDIT/ADD: No, it is not a fix. Gun sight disappeared again.