crash test pilot

Yes, thats the hub version - has not been maintained for years now. Better switch to the Flightpanels fork: https://github.com/DCS-Skunkworks/dcs-bios Have fun!

This will make all your 5-way-switches behave like a single one. All of them are wired the same, so they will do the same. In terms of a button matrix, you only have rows but no column. I guess black is common ground for your switches, draw each of them straight down and you have a 5x4 matrix ( instead of a 6x0). Diodes go where you want them, they just need to be the right direction.

Tried that on my DIY collective: https://imgur.com/gallery/huey-collective-v-2-ymtrg8e Was not very satisfying,so changed it later to a steering dampener like i have on my pedals

A FFB stick surely adds a lot to the immersion and is nice to have, but I cannot tell you anything about the moza or ww ffb bases. The Rhino is a well-engineered piece, I got the DIY version and it took me less than two hours to assemble. Doesnt turkey have ridiculous import dutys on electronics? The WarBRD base is definetely a big step up from the tm base, so decision is up to your guts and wallet. Have fun!

The WarBRD base accepts the tm stick just fine, you even can change the VID/PID to match the tm base so you can use it with the target software. Ask the seller if the stronger springs are part of the package, as the heavy tm stick tends to wobble with the light springs. Its a fantastic combo imho and I just put mine away after I upgraded to a Rhino.

The code for the HSI course knob should be: typedef DcsBios::RotaryEncoderT<POLL_EVERY_TIME, DcsBios::FOUR_STEPS_PER_DETENT> FourStepRotaryEncoder; FourStepRotaryEncoder hsiCrsKnob("HSI_CRS_KNOB", "DEC", "INC", PIN1, PIN2);

The most usual type of rotary encoder sends 4 pulses per detent. You may want to try this: RotaryEncoder · DCSFlightpanels/dcs-bios-arduino-library Wiki · GitHub

Have a look at "The Warthog Project": https://thewarthogproject.com/ He is also here in the forum as romeo kilo. Its about an A-10 cockpit, but much of the process is adaptable. He inspired me to build my own A-10 Simpit.

You may need to use the "two steps per detent" argument. See here: https://github.com/DCS-Skunkworks/dcs-bios-arduino-library/wiki/RotaryEncoder

No. As all your switches are connected to ground, your microcontroller cannot discern between any switch on the same row. See Example below: All connections must go to digital pins (most analoge pins are usable as digital) so when sending voltage to the column it can be sensed on the corresponding row. Diodes are not shown but as you want to use several switches at the same time they are needed. It does not matter if they are attached to the columns or the rows. as long as you pay attention to the direction of the flow of electricity (comes from the column and goes to the row). Three-position-switches may be confusing at first, as each is connected to two rows and one column (or two columns and one row) but with a little understanding of the principle of matrixes you will soon master this. Have fun and something to read: http://pcbheaven.com/wikipages/How_Key_Matrices_Works/

In the end i used 180 ohm resistors - just what i dialed in my variable resistors.

Windows only sees 8 axes from one game controller. You can split your device into two virtual devices with software like joystick gremlin.

The Apem switches do have this, albeit they are a bit expensive... But sometimes you find them on the bay... https://www.reichelt.de/hebelschalter-10-4-a-400vac-1x-ein-aus-hs-631-h2-p105644.html?&trstct=pol_10&nbc=1

Whut?

I managed to open and repair it with the help of someone on reddit. Here are some pics of the disassembly: https://imgur.com/gallery/AUc0ARj

Yes, it was sold as scrap. I was very delighted to see it light up - when i shake it. The 28v bulb was already replaced by a 12v bulb, which i really appreciate, because my homecockpit has no 28v - only 12 and 5v. If i cannot open it without destroying it i may better leave it as is.

Hi! I managed to to aquire an original grimes cockpit utility light. https://imgur.com/gallery/ZSVYSzH Sadly there seems to be a bad connection somewhere in there. I fail to open it to have a look and all i found online are manuals to purchase. Can someone point me in the right direction on how to open this little gem in a non-destructive way to get it fully working again? I can take out the lens and the bulb, and the little screws at the back - the dimmer unit the rotates freely but does not come out. The screws at the pivot do not come out sadly. Thanks!

There WAS the super taurus from winwing, which was about 98% actual f-18 throttle, but it is no longer in production and sold out a long time ago. I have seen many people asking to buy a used one , but no one selling one. Rumour says winwing is working on a succesor, but dont take my word for it. At the moment your best option is to build one yourself - openhornet project has a lot of plans to offer.

If you have a 3d-printer (or acess to one) you could use this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4543158 Alternatively you could use the alps rkjxm/rkjxl/rkjxt switches or these: https://pcflights.com/navigation-switch-joystick-2-axis-4-ways/

I always use the latest, dcs-bios doesn not seem to care about open beta or stable...

The zip file contains all you need. Under releases you can find older versions (if you ever need them) and you can download the arduino-library (DCS-BIOS_0.7.48.zip) if you want to program your modules on a computer without dcs.

Any news on this? Just found the arc-210 display in the newest dcs-bios reference and wanted to get out the tank hunter again, but nothing works. The "old" Hog works in with dcs-bios, but not the new one.

Hi! I was looking at your pcb and two spots hit my eye: 1. Is this a shorting? 2. Is this contact ok? Maybe you check with a multimeter... Good luck!

Hi Lesthegrngo, the hub version has not seen updates in 4 years. Active Fork is the Flightpanels one: https://github.com/DCSFlightpanels/dcs-bios