crash test pilot

Ok, here is my landing gear panel scetch, but beware: it is a slave scetch for a rs-485 network. Both lines beginning with #define should look different in your script. Maybe you forgot to include servo.h? Edit: when i comment out the servo.h i get your error message so this is most likely missing in your script... f1.ino Edit 2: ah, just saw your edit. yes, you need to #include "Servo.h" Edit 3: The servooutput line needs to go where /*your code here*/ stands.

You can use as many dcs-bios commands in one scetch as you have pins available on your arduino. For the servo: it gets position info via pwm - pulse width modulation. Means in this case: A pulse with a length of 2400 ms for minus 90 degrees from center (the up position) and a lenght of 544 ms for plus 90 degrees (the down position). You have to try how to make it fit for your needs, as the flap indicator turns only 90 degrees in the real aircraft. My servo is mounted with the gear wheel up and the needle directly attached to it (no gears) and my setting is: DcsBios::ServoOutput flapPos(hexnumber, pin, 2400, 1472); Do not let this pic fool you - you can set the servo to -90 degree and then stick the pointer pointing to the right - it will turn clockwise from right to left.

Are you using the dcs-bios hub version? If so, it will occupy the com port, making it impossible to write code to the arduino via the ide. Quit the dcs-bios hub ( or use the disconnect option) and you should be good to go.

Yes... By reading it can be a bit overwhelming at first. I got myself a cheap arduino learning kit and had a good time trying and learning. It also gives the benefit of having resistors, leds, pushbuttons, pots and more stuff for testing bigger constructions. I would recommend one with a mega2560, because if you want to build a rs-485 network (great for using multiple arduinos on one usb-port) you will need one for the master-role. The time i started, i wanted just a landing gear lever - now i have a complete cockpit. Beware! Highly addictive! Have fun...

Welcome to the rabbit hole! Have you found the wiki? https://github.com/DCSFlightpanels/dcs-bios/blob/master/Scripts/DCS-BIOS/doc/userguide.adoc I recommend to start there, wether you are using the hub version or the flightpanel-fork. Installation is different for these; usage is the same. As agrasyuk said: Try the master caution example script (arduino ide: file menu, examples, dcs-bios) and work your way up. For the leds dont forget resistors! The uno may not take damage using leds without resistors, but the leds will burn. Edit: Heres the hub-version wiki: https://dcs-bios.readthedocs.io/en/latest/hardware.html

Yes. You just need to look up the vid/pid of the tm base and put that into the virpil configurator software when you initialize the virpil base.

Have you heard of the deltaalphlima mod for the warthog throttle? It replaces the much hated slew-nubbin with an analog joystick. Its not really expensive, easy to install and works like a charm! https://deltasimelectronics.com/products/thumbstick-slew-sensor-adapter

The TFRPs are very narrow, they gave me cramped legs even before i switched to a center-mounted stick. After that folding my legs around was nearly impossible, so i had to get rid of them. Recently i had the opprotunity to disassemble a set of logitech pedals, and found they were build so cheap, they had to break after a year. If you want something that lasts and dont want to buy new junk every year or so, get either ch pedals (not beatuful but build like a tank) or Crosswinds (fully customizeable in so many ways and also very sturdy) which are not cheap but worth everry penny.

Do you want to try helicopters? Then dont be cheap. Crosswinds are fantastic and sturdy. I got rid of my t.flights after some months and regretted wasting that money.

Just change language on main screen:

In the virpil sticks the connectors are to be pulled out a bit and can rotate, which the warthogs stick connector cant. On the TM base you can only use the stick facing forward, on the virpil base you can tilt it to the right or left for better ergonomics in a center-setup. To avoid damaging the plug in the tm grip you really should remove these screws.

The throttle is the best part of the set imho.

https://realsimulator.com/tusba/ A bit pricey, but works oob, else it is diy with mmjoy2 and a pro micro... May i suggest to have a look at the virpil warbrd base instead of tm´s warthog base? Much better!

Yes, you cannot use the mega with mmjoy2 because it has a atmega2560 chip. Have a look here for compatible boards: https://github.com/MMjoy/mmjoy_en/wiki/Controllers-(compatible-base-boards) Most i/o are on the teensy++2.0, cheapest are the pro micro clones. With button matrix even the small pro micro can handle 81 inputs, with shift register you can go up to 96.

For the Arduino way i would like to bring two different ways to ypur attention: DCS-BIOS: pro: can be expanded to an unbelievable number of inputs (via rs485-bus). I have my complete A-10 cockpit attached to my computer with only one usb connection. Con: Each module is bound to the plane it is programmed for, so no generic box. Also requires a bit of programming. MMJoy2: con: no mega, only boards with at90usb646 at90usb1286 atmega32u4/5V 16MHz (the pro micro being a cheap and available example). Pro: can be expanded with shift registers to 96 inputs and each board can be given unique names and PID/VIDs. No programming involved, full graphic gui.

Do you use your display with helios? That may be a more versatile solution than mine. I used an arduino-shield display because it was cheap but so it only displays the A-10 CDU.

Maybe a more easy example would be my A-10 TACAN. It uses a 1.3 OLED with a SH1106 chip instead of the SSD1306 chip of the 0.91 OLED. The if-clause was needed because the fuel display output of DCS-BIOS was meant for a servo and ranges from 0 to 65535 whereas i wanted to display numbers 0 -9 and needed to prevent a massive flickering. r8.ino Goddamn, how do i post code?

No, i had to cut it. It is not easy to make it fit because keys are very close to the edges but is manageable. edit: readability

@Kenpilot: Prototype board or strip grid board. @dukovac: What display are you using? I use this: https://www.ebay.de/itm/3-5in-ILI9486-Control-IC-TFT-LCD-Display-Module-320x480-for-Ar-Mega2560-16-Bit-R/133455625846 I can read it very clear even under the smoked cover plate from the pcflights offering.

As an example, here is my a-10 fuel quantity display sketch using the 0.91 OLED. It may not be the most sophisticated solution but works: f5.ino

Here is a good walktrough: https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-tca9548a-1-to-8-i2c-multiplexer-breakout/overview

An expansion cord with usb-b port mounted in your box, or desolder the micro-b usb port from the pro micro and solder an usb-cable directly to it, or use a teensy ( the have a more sturdy mini-b usb port).

The insert in the TM base does not allow to rotate the grip, so no need to remove the screws, whereas the virpil bases do not have a limiting insert, so you can set the grip at an offset (useful for center-setup). For this you need to remove the screws.

Short answer? Well - one. Long answer? One. I2C devices like these share the sck and sda pins ( on a mega d20 and d21) and are distinguished by hardware-set adresses, which you cannot change on these displays. But you can use an I2C-multiplexer for up to 8 devices. https://www.ebay.de/itm/TCA9548A-I2C-IIC-Multiplexer-Breakout-Board-8-Kanal-ErweiterungsplDC/233803958667

Last three points. Its intended for leds, but you can use the signal for whatever you want. It is just a logical high or low signal.