crash test pilot

The VKB button tester shows all 128 dx-buttons You can find it in any mmjoy-package.

On the master as well as on the slaves. It filters noise from the power supply.

Between Vcc and Gnd of the max487.

Maybe a dumb question, but do your nanos have different slave numbers? I use no resistors in my rs485 bus, just a capacitor (100nF) for every max487 chip for power source smoothing/filtering.

User rel4y on this forum used to offer ready-made 4021 shift register boards, ask him if he still does. If not, debolestis boards and a bit soldering it is.

Are you using the hub version of dcs-bios or the flightpanel fork? Hub is more easy to use, but is no longer updated. Did you made the necessary changes to the export.lua? For the Hub version: do you see the "connected" lit green? For the flightpanels version: do you see the battery switch action in the socat window? Heres a link to the flightpanel version wiki: https://github.com/DCSFlightpanels/dcs-bios/blob/master/Scripts/DCS-BIOS/doc/userguide.adoc Another good tool to monitor actions from dcs-bios is the dcs-bios-debug tool: https://github.com/tldBear/dcsBiosDebug/blob/master/README.md Hope you find the error...

Mine is ready for the better part of a year now - well, the hardware. Its sitting in the shelf and collecting dust. For the moment, stay with the 164. Edit: The -210 will not replace the -164, but one of the -186.

Updating firmware is the same process as initial firmware flash. Yes, you loose all bindings.

Hi! You used the Input pins (for daisy-chaining more sr´s) instead of the output pins to attach the boards to the micro controller. "Out" means output from the shift registers to the micro controller.

Hi! The plastic stems are really stable, no need for a metal one. I have two sticks with plastik printed stems from shapeways and they hold up to anything I threw at them.

Its not iron but zamac (a zink alloy) so not very strong. You can get replacement in severall flavours here: https://www.shapeways.com/shops/debolestis Good luck!

I use mmjoy- no coding required. My last coding experience before dcs-bios was logoscript on a c64... Yes, i am that old.

Well - thats what mmjoy does. If i set joystick buttons in the control configuration within dcs, it works flawless. The 5pos-switch command in dcs-bios was written for rotary switches and only senses the change from an active input to another active input - so the return to center with no contact is not sensed. If i had the programming abilities to overcome this, i would have done it - sadly being able to solder, glue and paint does not make me a super hacker... I just found an easy way to come around this.

Hi! If you have acces to a 3d-printer you can print the ministick : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4543158 Sadly the dcs-bios implementation of this thing is a bit wonky - the 5pos-switch comand does not sense the return to center so you would have to press center for stopping the trim tab to run to max deflection. My solution was to use a pro micro with mmjoy as a generic joystick device so my left console now has three input ports (tm warthog throttle, emergency trim and rs485 for the rest) but at least it works as intended.

A rs-485 network is your way to go. One master connected via usb to the pc, up to 127 slaves on one bus (you can use up to three). Have a look here: Edit: Just re-read your question: I guess you want to use one arduino with multiple aircrafts? Thats not that easy. You could write code for all aircraft on one arduino but you will run out of memory fast and the stability could be affected as well. More easy to swap different arduinos or use something like mmjoy for a generic hid controller - maybe?

From DCS-BIOS Userguide: Aircraft-Specific Notes A-10C CMSP, CMSC and UHF Frequency Export in external view These values will not be updated by DCS when the cockpit is not rendered (e.g. in external view or HUD-only view). The solution is to assign another viewport to these indicators (through MonitorSetup.lua), so they exist even when the cockpit is not shown. You can make the viewport 1x1 pixels in size and place it outside of your visible screen area. For example, if you have no monitor above the primary one, you could place the viewport at coordinates (0, -10). Maybe this applies also to the F-16? Have not tried it but may be worth to try...

On the tm base you would loose all axis from the grip as the base only can read button presses. On a virpil base you can set axis to be read as button press, but the tm base cannot do that for you.

The tm base cannot read the axis of the vfx grip, so you lose the brake lever and the dlc wheel - which would be a no-no for me.

Hi, I guess you use the hub version? It is no longer developed, use the flightpanel fork instead. https://github.com/DCSFlightpanels/dcs-bios

Here you are: https://www.shapeways.com/product/6BCBQ9KQZ/warthog-pinkie-lever?optionId=60890650&li=shops

Assuming you use either the switch2pos or actionbutton command; you can use a "true" argument which inverts the output. Use like this: DcsBios::Switch2Pos starterCover("STARTER_COVER", 3, true);

The connector in the 50 mm extension is fixed, so it does not rotate when you screw it to your base and it will shear off the mini din connector in either the base or the extension. The longer extensions have a loose cable so you can use these with the warthog base. In the virpil bases you can unscrew the connector so it rotates with the extension during attaching it.

Hi! I found this online https://www.blunham.com/Radar/SignalsMuseum/PDFs/AP1095.pdf and pages 286 and following state it is a potentiometer, but your picture does not show the wire coil - maybe it is missing? Anyway, hope this may be helpful... Cheers!

Just out of curiosity: Why would you want to replace a contactless magnetic sensor with potentiometers? They suffer from collecting dust, degrade over time and produce rather noisy signals. Everyone wants to replace pots with hall sensors, so: Why going back? Edit: Sokol is right, the wh gimbal cannot be used with pots...

Hi Debolestis, I just ordered your PS-3 ministick amplifier board from oshpark and after reading this thread I got a little confused about the resistors. So to make it sure: Are the Values printed on the Board (4 * 100 k ohms, 2 * 1 m ohms and 2 * 4,7 k ohms) correct? Thank you!