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Everything posted by acemark

  1. Hi Nightcargo The opinion of ED is SLI is not supported so there is no reason why it would improve game play. I was using SLI on 3 x 22" monitors . In my opinion there was an inprovement in game play. I have 3 x evga GTX 570 oc cards conected to a matrox th2go . You are limited to a max of 60 FPS with a matrox. I am now running 6 monitors ,for my home pit, and cant use Sli in this configuration but I would if I could. Everyone is waiting for EDGE to be released , soon hopfully . I dont know if this will change how sli runs. So IF you have It use It, But maybe not buy specialy for DCSW at this time. Mark.
  2. From Ivibe forum. Upon rereading I see Its 4 years, OOps. http://www.ivibe.com/forum/showpost.php?p=7932&postcount=302 and here, http://www.ivibe.com/forum/showpost.php?p=7979&postcount=57
  3. Hi Hilok , Yes ,it only viberates. Dont think of it as one or the other,but instead use both together for increased effect. As to obtaining one, Buying Used may be your only option at this time. Rob , from Ivibe , Has recently stated production is going to start again. Will have to wait and see. They have 2 years of pattent left,then anyone will be able to sell them. I think that a few companys will pick up on this. Mark.
  4. Hi Uh1fan. I didnt check voltage. Im using Brydlings board B-256A13. Its analoge inputs read 0-5 volts. I check the output with Windows Device Manager, under HID . Your limited to about 1", the magnets max distance from sensor. Test this with your sensor on bench ,magnet in hand,to see when its moved too far away . try turning the sensor in the feild ,you will see sweat spots . I got better results when the sensor lined up with the edge of the magnet instead of the center of the magnet. Good luck. Mark.
  5. Hi Raven Morpheus. I have posted some pics in my pit thread regarding hall sensors. Post # 79 Link in my sig. bellow. Mark.
  6. I see a need for hall sensor info regarding mounting. Here are some pics of my rudder pedals hall sensor. One sensor,Allegro A1321 analog hall efects sensor. Two Rare earth magnets gluded to plywood disk cut with a hole saw. Full left pedal . Sensor does not touch magnet. center position. The gap between the magnets is 1.25". Full right pedal. The magnets are mounted with same poles facing each other, so they are trying to push away from each other.
  7. Not at the moment . There is talk on Ivibe forum of sales being up and runing soon. Mark
  8. It work. Just added that line to the export lua . and bingo. Thanks goodnight. Mark
  9. Im glad to hear this. Recoilfx, would like to see your export lua. Thanks. Goodnight ,I will try this tonight. Thanks. Mark.
  10. I am wondering if anyone has their T.F.S.-3 working with DCSW V. 1.28. I upgraded from v1.26 to v1.28 and it stoped working. The auto upgrade and manual upgrade would'nt work, so I had to do a reinstall of DCSW. Now my TSF-3 wont work .It runs but dosent recognise the game. Any help would be welcome. I posted on Ivibe forum , got a response from rob and then I wait ,5 weeks now. IF you can Please help. Mark.
  11. I congradulate you on your abillity to read a manual. Thank you sooo much. Oh, dont be so hard on ED. After all , without ED., I wouldnt be thanking you. :) Thanks for pointing out this manual too, I didnt know It existed . Mark.
  12. Hello Noumcea wellcome to the forum. My experiance with this problem has been somthing not set up right. When useing multi screens you must un check full screen mode in the options menu. 3 screen mode is for a "U" shaped setup, for very large screens, Projectors. The left and right screens are to mounted on the left and right side of your head, center screen is straight ahead. to look out the left window, you turn your head 90 degs to the left and peer at the left monitor straight on. at this point , your right monitor is facing the back of your head. You have 2 options. 1 Configure / edit your screen lua. , or 2, use Easy Monitor Cofigurator " EMC" This is in the mod section of the forum , you download it from the mod section of this forum. It makes setup easy. Hope this helps . Mark.
  13. Thanks Dave. Hand painted, yes. White acrylic flat, For house and trim.Thined and applyed with a bamboo BBQ skewer. Head mount magnifyer and one letter at a time. Mistakes are erased quickly with a damp swab. I practised for a week before I did My cyclic, so I was experiance when I did the collective. I have most of the moduls and only the one pit. Flying time has been reduced as a result of pit building these last few years. I have flowen a P51 with a collective :) but at this time The KA-50 is my first pick. Mark.
  14. Here are some pics of the collective during construction.
  15. Dave, Your questions are wellcome. The guards are home made. I think, From 1" aluminum track. I made them a 1/8 " taller than the tip of the toggle switch. Here is a drawing of the ejection switch cover lower part. Its not completly visible in the pics. I dont have exact dimentions. What I remember. Its made from the same 3/4 " alu.track as single covers. The ends to the feet are the same as the single cover above , on the outside. The top and inside are cut back . The only need to extend past the plastic covers for good glueing surface. The Plastic covers are cut the same as the other ones. Only one mico-switch needed. I made mine about 1/4 inch too wide. Look at under side when open, left and right plastic covers should line up with left and right toggle switch. It allmost didnt fit. I used 1" centers for all my large toggles. Hope this helps Mark.
  16. Here are close-ups of the Ejection switch cover. you will need 2 plastic toggle covers for this one. This is style # 4 and the 5 one that I used is pictured above [bottom right] Its on the right panel. There are more pics in first post of this thread. All I did was paint the black base red. No outher mod was done. They dont look like the real ones, and they dont work in the sim. I really could'nt figure out how they work so I compromised here. I will make a drawing to help explaine the construction and post latter. Mark.
  17. Hi Mike. Thats a hell of a deal $0.69 for 1 . discount for bulk. My local guy now wants $3.75. I have seen them as high as $10.00 /each. Its buyer be-ware. Dave, The paint was Flat Black Acrylic spray paint. As to the time, about 4 hour each total. I did batches of 10 at a time. Add 1 hour for micro switch install. Add cost of material and $20.00 is not unreasonable. The problem with the real ones on E-bay is, they dont look the same. I will post some pics of the ejection seat switch cover with description latter. I dont have the exact dim. ,but you will get the idea I think. I see that I forgot to mention the lip of the cover needs to be bent up about 20 - 30 deg. I did this last. I put 4 in a vice at a time and bent them togeather, Remove and replace 3 of them , then bend the 3 the same as the first. Mark.
  18. more info on toggle covers. The pieces showen are left overs and are not exact. But they show the idea ok. here you can see the template for marking the cut line on the plastic toggle cover. Important to press it firmly down onto the covers base. The rear sloped side of the template is alined with the rear sloped part of the toggle cover.Use masking tape on the cover, mark the cut lines, repeat on other side and cut . The steel band has been allmost compleatly cut off in this pic.You can see the cut was almost an 1/8" too low. The template is not quite in position here, It needs to move back/to the left, untill the rear sloped surfaces aline. Here is what the cover looks like before cutting. The left over track is not enough to make one more. This track was 8' long when I started. I think I used about 3' for expirimenting. A key point here is that the track fits looslly over the cover. Take a cover with you to the store to check . You dont want to have to file of grinde the side to fit. Some of my trial and errors. Be prepared to make a few extras . Here are the 3 pieces that you need to make. The large piece is in the drawing above and is gluded on first. The piece to the left is gluded on next . It is 11mm long with 12mm sides or legs. The 3rd piece, lower one is , is one of the cut-outs fron the large piece. It needs to be trimed to fit on top . It is oversized a small amount, gluded on and finished by carefully filing to fit, top and 2 sides. The hole for the toggle switch tip ,1/4 " is slightly widend and elongated with a 1/4" round file. A 10 mm one is filed the opposite of a 20 mm. as they protrude through the hole from different angles. The 15mm goes basically straight through but the hole is still enlarged a bit. now drill 2 holes in center of base for mounting, I used #4 machine screws, and 1 hole for the micro switch pin if needed, exactlly where the left or right side of the cover contactes the base. Paint it. Last thing is to cut the 2 protruding " original feet" off the bottom of the plastic cover . Then cut the base with tin snips exactlly in the center of the original 1/2" mounting hole, removing the lower portion. Be careful as the base will close further and may bend if you snap it closed. Untill its mounted ,It wont work correctly "opening and closing the cover". Thats about it . Mark.
  19. Drawing of toggle cover and the Template for cutting the plastic cover. Additional info will come Mark.
  20. Here are some close ups of my toggles see top right corner of base,pin head. This pin is conected to a micro switch mounted beneath the panel. When the cover is opened, the pin will be pressed, closing the micro switch. I am making a drawing to help explane construction. also found old, miss fit ,broken, bad,parts , that will do for explaining. hold questions for next post. The collective. will try to find some pics. If you check the forum ,The collective is relativly common compared to the info on the cyclic. So at the time of building, I didnt see the need , Sorry. Mark.
  21. Thanks Dave. Yes ,I made the switch Guards. As far as I know no one sells them. I have see a few on Ebay but only in sets of 2-4 at $20 - $30 range each. There are 27 in the cock pit in 5 styles including the ejection one. I used a toggle covers made in china for all of them and 3/4" aluminum track. http://img.dxcdn.com/productimages/sku_132176_4.jpg I got them locally at $3 each.I cut them down ,and glued the alluminum caps on. I dont have pics of construction but can give more details if intrested. Mark. Edit. I see the ones pictured are clear/see through. This allows you to see the part that cant be cut . The spring and steel band. If you cut this part the integrety is ruined.The ones I used where solid non see through so I ruined a few.
  22. Nice job Rich. I agree on the brake,should have one. Is the raw collective box going to be avalible for sale? Upgraders need to know this. look forward to more. Mark.
  23. Here is the rest of the indicator construction pics. after trimming with sharp sissors The diffusor glued on over the leds. here is the center piece glued on top of the green difusor and the 1/16" acrylic glued on top of the center piece. I found that if dont use the center piece,glue the acrylic directlly on the green difusor,then the indicator can be easilly read when not on. You need a gap between them. Note that in this pic, the back side is stiil un painted allowing light through.I want the indicator only visible when lit. visible part of indicator covered with tape, acrylic lightly sanded for painting. the top piece ,only peice to have chrome removed on both sides, ready for paint. I used an exacto blade to scrape the chrome off. (sand paper wont get into the corners) painted on all sides. A coat of glue for filler put on the edge side of the indicator with my finger. painted again. Top piece pre painted and glued on. Thats it. Note; All parts glued with 5min. Epoxy glue. Supper glue also knowen as crasy glue reacts badlly with styren. It frostes like a corroded battery terminal but takes a few days.So dont use it. Please ask any Questions you have. Mark.
  24. Hello all. I would like to show how I make an indicator. I have pics of the APU panel indicators construction. I used a florescent ceiling light diffusers . Piece cut out and chrome sanded off on outside only. The piece is cut horizontally, Twice. To make the cuts I used 1/8" steel guides and a hacksaw blade. 1st cut is bottom. Thick side. 2nd cut is top. Thin side. The material is a high density styrein, and cuts easilly. This is the diffusor. Its corigated plastic sheet, bisected. Bottom piece gluded to top of panel. 2mmx5mm White leds mounted with 2 holes each,an gluded to panel. I should have used green . The indicators are bluish green . I will live with it as the leds are not replacable with this design. An inkscape desighned transarancy ,printed with an inkjet printer is gluded to the bottom of 1/16" piece of acrylic . The piece must be trimed 5 min. after glue sets while it is still soft. It tends to pull away from the acrylic if its to hard, defeating the purpose of glueing it on. To be continued.
  25. Thanks Maximus Lazarus. I still leave a lamp on to see the swithes and buttons. I still need to make the 8 or so little lamps that mount through- out the pit. Then the lamp can go out.
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