acemark

I took the plunge with 70 min left in kickstart. Pro pack. I hope this pays out for home pit and dcsw. In a year i hope to know. Mark

Hello, would like to report that I am experiancing this problem alot with 1.26. Ive had this problem for a long time and hoped that removing the last piece of Saitek hardware [X-52 pro throttle ] might help. Nothing seamed to change.Saitek software was never installed. So now Im using home built cyclic and collective wired to Brydlings B256-A13 board for all axis, Hat switch is assigned to the boards hat function. The problem is allways eliminated with weapons reset button , but its happening more offten now. Thanks Mark.

Hi Deadman, first, oh what a find you have made.I, and Im sure many, are soooo enveouse. I am using those features with BS2 DCSW .Works very good. Note; You have to use helios if you want to use Phidgets led board with DCSW for indicators. What year was your simulator made? I can imagine finding parts will be a killer.Thanks Deadman and KEEP UP THE PICs. Mark. Ps I have a second B256-A13 on the way and will get second Phidgets led soon and I expect them to work all together.

This looks very promising and about to go for one. Imagine the glasses with the lens clips on,in see through mode,displaying cockpit. Your are sitting in your refective fabric "Cube" ,with the outside world projected. Cant find price of fabric, could be costly. I think the max 720p will help FPS. Most important, will it work with D.C.S.W. They dont seem to be limited in supply so will wait till atleast sunday night before deciding. Its only been 1 hour since I heard about this device. Must add that I thought Leapfrog was going to be wonderful , But I had not the erge to get one. Thanks for pointing this out Geneb.

Looks good Frank. You have done a good job. Congrats on compleating a cockpit.

Hi nobrot, I just got some of those PWM to use for my white pannel lighting and blue cockpit lighting in my KA-50 pit. Test tryed with 12 volt led strip lighting and seams to work very good in test. There is a slight humming that can be herd when in either the bright or dimest setting,cant remember which. The led strip is 5 meters long and draws 4.2 amps max.with 600 + leds per strip. Strip can be cut down to a min. of 3 leds. I intend to use 1 and 3/4 rolls for white pannel backlighting. This should keep below the 8 amp rating on the PWM.This will allow me to control pannel lighting briteness with 1 knob. I Hope . Note. when led strip is cut you have to soulder new wires on. each strip is wired in parallel to the PWM. For Blue lighting I estmate 1 to 2 meters will be needed.

I am trying to figure out the sorce of the Blue night cockpit lighting in the KA-50. I want to incoperate both day/night lighting in my pit. The cockpit seems to just glow in the sim. no real sorce that I can tell. So please help me find the light :megalol: I was going to parallel the lighting, If its white in the day then blue at night but now I wonder?

Pannel looks very good, congrats. Any Info on using the Ardurino mega with DCS would be great as I too am looking to try it. TomDK Video in is what you want. If the input is RCA [you did'nt say] then you need a RCA to VGA converter,not to be confussed with RCA to VGA adaptor. I got mine online for about 25 USD. You then use a VGA / DVI or VGA/HDMI adaptor to connect to graphics card. Unless you have VGA connection on graphics card. Mark.

Ivank , The data from USB. The power from 120 volt ac/adaptor. On hi setting, it stings you. I to am using both Helios and TFS-3.

After 4 days it works again. bs2 + helios+ tsf 3. The upgrading of D.C.S. W. can be a very frustrating ordeal at times. The previous one went so well that I was looking forward to this one.This was the first time I used auto update. I tried the export file from Ivibe download site . allows TSF 3 to work but will not allow DCSW to run if TSF 3 is off? Problem was solved by getting helios to run with BS 2 , find helios export lua. and add the line intellIVIBE = true to the top of the lua. file. Note , Almost all of my button bindings in helios profile are not there , lost? I will put them back . Thanks for help Mark. EDIT; On second look found bindings still there. Turns out I have a delay , a 5-30 second delay between switch press in pit to screen display.

Your Pits really progressing Showtime, good job.

I am in awe , what a great idea , What a big job, what a ... Very good. My 2 cents worth, Keep the nose fully exposed . Encase rear half as stated, and dish floor around the nose. Thanks for showing pics

I Have the T.F.S.3 working great in world,with B.S.2. Will wait to upgrade to latest Ver. Its a shame there are such wide opinions of the service of I-Vibe . My experiance was good. Craig told me what to expect, I agreed, It came. I urge anyone who wants one to be patient , and keep trying ,its worth it.

Hi rich, Are you able to make the hats for the KA-50 collective? Are the swithches complete or just the caps for switches being offered.Thanks Mark.

I run 3 monitors in sli sometimes for pure eye pleasure and frame smoothness, and would leave it on sli all the time except for; cant run additional screens for pit. So most of the time I want the pit, which is sort of the pits for eye pleasure, He He.The 3 monitors are connected to a single display port on GPU using a matrox th2go . This is a limitation to sli but it still works in my opinion, Mark.

The new Homemade cyclic . Its taken longer than planed, But its in and working sorta. First test was monday, working good 1.5 hours then somthing funny with controles. One of the hall sensors was pulled off its mount and staying sorta put in place with just the wiring ,but not allways. The rubber boot was coming in contact on extream banks.Fix with a 1/4" thick shimm. you can see it in the pic as its not painted yet. You can also see the acsess holes I cut on three sides . This makes seeing whats going underneath easier.Have made covers with black 1/8" acrylic sheet. When this stuff is sanded with steel wool ,it looks great. I dont think I will have to paint it. So I have some isues with buttons. I think between the test wiring and completed wiring I screwed up, Hopfully because this is easiest to fix.Will try to figure out this weekend. The trigger mech. is working good with one problem of cannon not allways abel to fire due to cannon ready switch not being fully pressed when operated.minnor problem and will be addressed with the new trigger design. As far as just flying, THIS THING IS GREAT. The atitude changes are gracefull, I feel like a pro. Its just amasing how smooth manouvering is . Extream movment of the stick is required to make sudden changes in direction. I am looking at the idea of forced trim now. THe Idea of it is really starting to intrest me now thanks to peter p. showing me the way. thanks peter my preconceaved notion of what it was about was wrong with regardes to force feedback sticks.

BEFORE PIC my well serving X-52 PRO, retired.

Up date : ALL swithches woking in windows Exept brake. Brake swithch on hold , problem with space restrictions. Last weekend, I disasembled my pedistal to install cyclic. I thought that it would be done in 2 days, but its still not back together.Had to redo one of the hall sensors due to it hitting the side of the opening in the pedistall.Last nite , tested axies in windows on installed stick and it is looking good.Still need to cut extra holes for ease of checking ,fixing,or adjusting stick in the future. as it is right now, if the cable needed replacing, I would be looking at a weekend of work to replace it . This means no flying my pit for a weekend, No good! It should take 1 hour, this I can live with. Hopefully all is done this weekend including putting the pit back together.

Here are the dimentions for the cannon trigger. The end where it mounts still needs to be rounded off. This will be done after the trigger is mounted to the arm that holds it.

clean the edges with steelwool . still needes rounding at the rear but I will wait untill I fit it to the arm. Some more detail will be in the drawing as to shaping the rear . The weapons trigger grooves are done the same way with minutlly slightly larger gaps between the grooves. Mark.

Here I have used a 8 " flat file to shape the slashes. Note :File is not smooth on narrow edges.Put the corner of the file into a groove ,file parrallel to the grooves while rocking the file from tip to rear, rear to tip and so on . do this for each groove untill you think it is finished. Note: If while fileing parallel to the grooves , you rock the file at the end of the stroke , You will acsentuate the teeth, make them look deeper than they are. This can be usfull if you feel the grooves are not deep enough.

Here I have used a hacksaw to put slashes across the trigger. Start at the tip 1/8" back, cut , space, cut untill you get to the back." I freehand this" If you look closly at the pic you can see that. Depth. Look at the pic and gage. asume the gaps are on 1/8" spaces between centers then extrapulate the depth from that. I just eyeball it.

Use the Half Round file again to shape the filler once cured.

Fill grove with Epoxy Putty. keep putty out of the rear area . Holes clear , remember the are fits here.

The curve is finished here. You can see the contact with the base at the low point in the curve.