acemark

Thank you Adrian . We share somthing in common. It was Badcrc and Triggerhappy that made me crazy.:D To anyone intrested in KA-50 pits ,you should Check out their threads. And of course Simulatorregp who is building at present. Mark.

Thanks Towsim, I will give it a try. Mark.

Does anyone know where the export/configure lua. has gone to in DCSW, V:1.28. I just upgraded from V:1.26 and now my TFS-3 seat wont work. Thanks. Mark.

Hi Doverman. You should decide how you are going to connect the encoder to the sim.(interface). The manufactor of the interface board will state what type encoder to use. I am using a bodnar button box with use machanical gray code encoders. You asked in a previous post about dual encoders. Did you mean rotory with push button. If so , the shark uses one on the abris right side. Mark.

Hello , I have installed my APU panel. Real indicators,Fake guage for now. here are some pics.

Hi Grainny ,you bring up some good points. I had to google acrylic fabric, never heard of it. I suppose you wood use it instead of canvess ? Intresting stuff. I have no intentions of selling my pit, but at the same time realize,it could happen. I think the pit building buissness is a tough one, and have no intentions of persuing one. Must addmitt the idea crossed my mind. The test of time. I think to swithes ,moving parts will go first. I am considering , right now, of making a modification that will use sheet aluminum.Will see. The butt kicker will be in the g-seat. I have a TSF-3 (I-vibe) seat right now. Tactile feedback adds volums to the siming experiance. If your wondering, so far I have $2500.00 invested in the pit.Before I started the pit. The PC and hardware I was using (and still am) before construction was $4000.00 . Oh and 2.5 year of most of my spare time. Probally just going to keep on adding untill its done or I start a new one. Mark.

Here are a few more pics.

Hello Grainny. Thankyou . Yes to questions. Anyone please feel free to ask questions. 1) See my thread here http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=99274 ITS all about the cyclic. 2) I used Flat Black. Acrylic enamel. Brush on and spray.Up untill a year ago I was buying it from Rona,There line but I think it was made by Rustoleum.They discontinued it to my horror . Im now using Tremclade brush-on flat black and Krylon Fusion for plastic, black, spray on. But its not flat enough so I top coat with tremclade. Krylon makes a flat black Its for camouflage and comes with 2 coulors that I dont need,But its flat and Thats what I will Buy next. Dont have spec #. 3)I used a power saw and drill press. No CNC. 4)$$$$$$ moola man. Im to cheap.I use metal when I must. I think wood is easier to work with and the 1/8"x 4'x8' plywood is $16.50 a sheet. 5)Generaly no But prolonged squatting causes constant pins and needels effect in legs that stops when squatting stops. 6)Depends what you mean. A real one,I dont think so. I am presantlly thinking of building that wonderfull" DIY-G- seat" that Bergison posted here recentlly.heres a link http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=122577 7)I made them, But that was before I decided to build a pit.They were originally chained to my saitek pro rudder pedels,but now have a hall efects sensor in them. No center detent,and no resistance to movment. Will try and find my old rig pic and put here. The pic is gone but my post is still there.? Mark.

Thanks guys I appreciate the good words you say. Hi Guitarxe, Yes I made the cyclic. I have a thread on it here Will post a link http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=99274

So with a little methel hydrate the blue film is removed. I recall now that it was in 1995 , a power smart upgrade at work, where this reflector came from. No wonder its hard to get off. here are some pics of the mirrors. I have pre orderd the Cast AR ,and will cover the mirrors with the reflective fabric. Hope it works,only 3 more months to sept. release date. Mark.

Fantastic job on the seat Burgison.:thumbup: I want one too. :cry: 2 weeks is nothing for a seat like you have. Im setting aside 2 months . and if need be 2 more. Thanks for showing us excellent stuff for pits. Mark.

Thanks Skulleader. Ran into a snag with the mirrors, the protective film on the reflective surface wont peal off. Its too brittle. Old stuff. Will try lacqure thinner when I get some, and see if it will melt it. The balast bucket has be replaced and the roof is really taking shape now. Here are some pics. This is the film that is resisting removal. ITS an aluminum reflecter for florescent lighting. I contact glued it to some 1/8" plywood. The new balast weight. Its about 15 lbs. needs paint.

Here is a link for Helios. It will solve the toggle problem and much more. http://www.gadrocsworkshop.com/forum Mark.

Hello all, here is an update. I got my compasss installed, and a 5" dia. spy hole cut in the back wall for taking in pit pics. Also, I have added some rivets to the roof section for looks. I used upholstery nails . the above pic is looking through the rear spy hole .You can see the compass installed and my head tracker is mounted ,was just held with tape. Now the pics will be centered. I should have thought of this sooner

Thanks Guys. I am happy to show my pit to you. I have Pics of the fwd roof section . will be working on mirrors today.

Hello. I read in ED forum somewhere that the trim cant be moddeld correctlly without a FFB joy stick. To compesate you get to do the " trimmer dance" as I recall it. This is not broken. ED is a stickler for authentisity, so wanting something thats not in the real A/C is unlikly. Also the collective brake has not been mentioned here. It needs to be used to tell the FD what alltitude you want to fly. If you havent pressed it since takeoff ,the FD will try to return to take off elevation. Upon reflecting on how I trim, first thought I use click method. No, I move the cyclic, A/C responds,press trim , return cyclic to exact center position,and release trim. SO not clicking, and not holding through complete manover. If I used/changed rudder position, It to is returned to center with the cyclic. Trimming the KA-50 is a skill that must be practiced. In reguards to shkval not working in rain, I havent ever noticed 'seen " actual rain. Please what mission is it in. EDIT Sorry FFB should read Force trim. Mark.

I got a coat of paint on now and wow its a black shark pit now. Decided to do the front now too . I want to get all the roof mounted "wieght" on now and most of the wood was allready cut. some pics.

Had a long day wresteling with the door.What a bugger to fit the door gap. Well It worked and on with the Pics. Will Paint the outside Black for now. Green camo in the future.

Thanks Simulatoregp, I am happy you like. Also I am about to FINALLY start the actuall APU Panel. Pit building is slow.

Here is the extent of the frame work for now. Will concentrate on skining whats made, and in the future will do the other side,and fwd section of the roof. heres the pics.

Thanks. I wanted a name that had'nt been used, I think, I hope.

Heres an update. the skin is 1/8" plywood,and the frame is 1"x2".

I think the feilds you are seeing have been set in a differant catagory. At the top of the pic that Cresendo posted there is a black bar. In it , you can see that you have "ALL" selected. Click the drop down box and select one of the many catagorys and check if this is where the binding is. Note, when you change the catagory, then want to change back to original "ALL"catagory, IT will be hiden at the top . You will need to scroll up to see it again. The double lines dont seem to be a problem, so Im not to concerned with those.I just select one or the other . Mark.

Hi Crescendo, I have noticed this myself. I also have Identical lines in pairs ,thats two comand lines for one input. IN your example , Change the top category to THROTTLE And see if you can change it there. I have a limmited memory of someone saying that on a new install you should manually deleat all collunms first, EXCEPT Keyboard entres. Mark.

Heres anougther ,Inside view. This is the part that will open for enter/exit. Fake door.