X-31_VECTOR

Thanks for sharing the mission file, Jafergon! Hopefully Super Carrier will come with a number of quick start missions with crowded decks and full launch and recovery cycles.

Thanks Draconus, that was it exactly! The "friction" axis on my TM Warthog Throttle was default mapped to zoom view and happened to be at full forward deflection (hence zoomed all the way in). You saved me a lot of time and frustration.

Thanks, and understood on that part. I didn't explain it well, but my question is more about within what mission he is ejecting. In other words, all those AI aircraft doing cyclic ops are generated by some mission, either user created or included with a module (Hornet most likely).

Possibly a dumb question, but... What mission do you load to see sustained carrier ops like that with a moving carrier? Or did you create your own? Thanks!

I'm reviving this old thread because I just bought F-15C and have this exact same issue, specific only to this module (so it's nothing to do with my TrackIR or RL seat position etc). I have Zoom In/Out Slow mapped to my HOTAS, but zooming out only works until I release the button, at which point the view snaps back to tight-zoomed in on the HUD. This doesn't happen in other modules (even other FC3 modules) with the default view, regardless of where the default view is set. In other words, in nm other module, if I zoom in or out from the default view with my HOTAS buttons, the view stays at the new zoom until I change it again. @AeriaGloria, were you able to solve this? Many thanks!

That looks extremely promising -- thanks for the tip!

That's a strange one. I have two Stream Decks I use with DCS and Adobe CC (never tried them in IL-2), and I've never had the issue you describe. It sounds as if the Stream Deck is essentially sending (or IL-2 is receiving) the L key longer than the modifier key. I would suggest you first test what Windows is receiving using one of various applications that show key input duration (of course I am forgetting the names of the common ones at the moment, but hopefully someone smarter on this forum will chime in). These should allow you to see the key down and key up sequence, and hopefully duration in milliseconds, that the Stream Deck is sending. Unfortunately, Stream Deck does not currently support press-and-hold functions, but I've seen talk of Elgato adding this functionality in later software builds. If/once they do, a work-around would be to set up a multi-action sequence where you could separately specify exactly the duration of the modifier press and release and the "L" press and release, such that you could guarantee the L is released before the modifier is. Failing that, I guess you could always remap the cockpit lights in IL-2 to some other key or key sequence, e.g., LCTRL-L. Annoying to have to do that, but should work.

File this under the category of stuff that shouldn't matter but still somehow does: I really like the design aesthetics of my MFG Crosswinds. I wouldn't care about that if they weren't also excellent to use (including ease of adjustability), but since they check all of the actually important boxes... they just look damn good under the desk. I appreciate them as a well-designed piece of machinery, and more so for having been developed by an individual, not a large corporation.

I guess that was my original point... there seems to be no good reason not to make the manuals easily accessible. Can new users find them where they are now? Sure. Should new users assume they exist and go to look for them? Eh, maybe. But why not have the manuals be an actual, honest-to-goodness part of the game? ED and the module developers (well, most) have put so much time and effort into creating thorough manuals... why not put them front and center? I know ED cares about encouraging new users -- witness Wags' excellent familiarity videos -- but that initiation process needs to begin within the game itself to set the hook. Otherwise we risk losing the noobs who download the free version and might give up in frustration rather than taking the time to find the answers to their questions. We might be tempted to deride those folks as not being worth pandering to, but we need ED's (and developers') customer bases to be growing if we want to get all the cool stuff on our never-ending DCS wish lists.

+1 for the Delta Sim upgrade. It is basically just a thumb stick from a console controller, with a lot of throw so much finer control. It was an easy install (no soldering) and makes a big difference. My only issue with it is that I find it hard to push and click without moving the controller in a direction at the same time. I'm sure that will get better with practice.

That's certainly a valid perspective QuiGon, and may in fact be the majority view. (I meant it when I said I was embarrassed to admit how long I went without realizing there was a manual.) But anecdotally, it seems to me that I've seen a lot of newcomers not reach that conclusion on their own. I'm curious to hear other views on both sides of the argument.

This may be a dumb question, but why isn't the manual available through the game itself, as in a button on the home screen? I am embarrassed to admit how long I played DCS before I realized there even was a manual. I think this is one of those unnecessary barriers to entry for noobs who come to DCS. This community -- and its willingness to enthusiastically help newcomers -- is probably the single biggest asset DCS has in bringing new members to the fan base. But that's largely because new users don't feel supported within the game itself. How many times have you seen some variation on: Noob: How do I...? Salty DCS Vet: Welcome to DCS! Now RTFM. Noob: There's a manual? The same holds for modules. When I started with DCS and investigated where I could find answers to my aircraft-specific questions, everyone advised the same thing: download Chuck's Guides. From which I assumed there weren't official manuals. No one said, "Go to folder XYZ and you'll find a detailed 400-page manual." Hell, even just a button on the DCS home screen that opened the appropriate folder in a separate window might help us retain newcomers who get frustrated but never bother to come to the forums for answers. Feel free to tell me I'm the only fool for whom this is an issue, but if I'm not... how hard would this be to actually do? Seems relatively easy, but so does everything when someone else is doing the work. :)

Great point about the heat! I've used a soldering iron applied to the head of a screw to break red. Each one has a temp above which it will break down, and it's higher for the red -- 250C/500F. There should be support groups for people who have had to remove tiny, soft screws held in with red threadlocker. "The horror..."

IIRC, that is the trick -- you first select an autopilot mode (altitude hold, heading hold, orbit). Doing so will have no noticeable effect, but when you then turn the autopilot "on," it will engage with whatever mode you selected prior. I can't remember if you have to do that every time you use it in the course of a single flight, but I don't think so; I think it defaults after the first time to the last mode you were in. One other "gotcha" that I seem to recall tripping me up the first few times: before turning off autopilot, pay attention on the controls indicator window to the position of the autopilot's (aka your copilot's) flight controls, and make sure your own controls match them, or you may have a violent lurch when you take over and DCS immediately reverts to your control positions. Taking cyclic as an example: let's say you move your real stick (Warthog or whatever) left of center to set up an orbit, then engage AP in Orbit mode and let go of your real stick (which will immediately recenter due to its springs). You should see on the control position window one red diamond and one white; one is the position of your real stick and the other the position of the virtual co-pilot's controls. If you move your real stick to line up the two diamonds before you disengage autopilot, you should have a smooth transition. (The situation is complicated by trim, but the principal is still the same-- line up the white and red flight control indicators in the controls window and you're good to go). Hope that helps (and/or actually made sense)!

Teflon tape will actually make it easier for the threads to back out. Try blue Loctite (NOT red, which is intended to hold permanently). Start with a small amount and see if it prevents the loosening. If not, clean off the first application and reapply with a larger amount. Don't go crazy, as even blue Loctite can make life difficult when it comes time to unscrew something.

I've had a similar issue even with my Virpil grip occasionally loosening, and I've considered (but haven't tried) using Loctite or similar thread locker on the threads. If you do decide to use Loctite, use the blue, NOT the red, and start small (you can always add more). Blue is relatively easy to overcome when you want to remove your grip, assuming you don't go crazy with it. Red is intended for permanent uses, and is the devil itself if you want to get it off again. EDIT: Sorry, re-reading your post it sounds like the threads themselves are not loosening? Actually though, depending on where the movement is, Loctite might still be an option.

Thanks again, but unfortunately that's one of the fixes I've already tried. I'll try the EDID hack and USBdeview tonight though.

Thank you both! I'll give these both a try.

I had just read about the frame drops elsewhere on this forum, purportedly associated with heavy CPU utilization (hence not related to the rendering of viewports but attributed by the poster to Helios). I'm relieved to hear it's a non-issue.

derammo, how do you get DCS to send the view ports through the second graphics card? Is it an edit to the monitor.lua? [ <---pretending to know what I'm talking about]

IIRC, it can also be used in the case of an anti-skid brake failure. It happened more than once in both Navy and Marine Corps fleets that a pilot would get an anti-skid brake caution and not do what the NATOPS says, which was something to the effect of turn off anti-skid and then brake gently without anti-skid (runway landings obviously, not ship). If the anti-skid failed and the system was not turned off, upon landing the unlucky pilot would have no braking. Options then were to drop the hook and catch the runway arresting wire (if it was rigged and the pilot reacted in time); use emergency brakes; or put on power and take off again, then sort out the problem in the air. If the pilot did none of those things and just tried to stand on the brakes, he might hypothetically roll through a chain link fence at the end of the field and eject while doing so, with predictably injurious results. You can find that one somewhere in the Naval Safety Center records if you want the whole sordid tale. Anti-skid failure was mainly an issue when a/c that had been on the ship for several months were flying to terra firma. The electrical cabling that services the anti-skid system at the wheel ran down the outside of the gear strut, and could be damaged over the course of a tour with tie-down chains and the like. The first time the anti-skid was turned on in months (since it was not used aboard ship), one or more pilots might discover that the anti-skid was non-functional. The pilots I worked with regarded it as a non-issue if the NATOPS was followed, and were pointedly unsympathetic toward the few souls who had mishaps because they didn't follow it.

So what I hear you saying is that I am totally justified in upgrading to a 2080Ti even though DCS runs fine (and I'm sure will run fine even while creating viewports) on my 1080, right? Right? Me tonight: "Honey, BaD CrC says I need a 2080Ti. I tried to reason with him but he insists. Looks like patching the roof is going to have to wait, but that leak is nothing a little duct tape won't cure..."

I've seen lots of people on the interwebs talking about this problem (but have yet to find a solution that works for me), so I'm guessing some DCS touchscreen and/or Helios/Ikarus user may have had it too... Having finally decided to jump on the Helios train, I bought an HP e230t 23" touchscreen to use as an interactive cockpit below my main monitor. It was only giving me "limited touchscreen capability" even with new drivers, and I saw there was a firmware update available for this monitor, so... Not only did the firmware not give me full capability, it nuked the "HID-Compliant Touchscreen Device" line from Device Manager, and all touch capability went with it. And no amount of uninstalling drivers, reinstalling drivers, deleting ghost drivers, cleaning out registry keys, updating Windows or even reverting to a pre-monitor-installation Windows state has brought it back. HP tech support began by suggesting that -- I kid you not -- I confirm that I had actually bought a touchscreen, and then that I try... wait for it... cleaning off my screen. You know that feeling when the KA-50 autopilot sends you spiralling into the ground for the third time and you can't figure out why? Yeah. So if anyone can help me solve this problem, I promise to write to the Vatican and nominate you for sainthood. Thanks!

I love my MFG Crosswinds, but those Slaw pedals are proper beauties. My solution to the chair issue is a long Velcro strap I use to attach the center post of my Wheelstand Pro to the front leg of my five-wheeled office chair. And easier solution I guess would be to just take the wheels off my chair, but I try to maintain the illusion that I don't have a sim pit, I just have a desk for working... that happens to have a whole bunch of sim stuff all over/around/under it.

Thanks derammo, that's extremely helpful! I've been wondering about the merits of running Helios on a separate computer, and it sounds like they are minimal at best. (Now I just need to get my touchscreen working. I made the mistake of installing the firmware update for my brand new HP e230t, because it was only giving me limited touchscreen capability. Immediately my HID-compliant Touchscreen Device driver disappeared from Device Manager, I lost all touch ability, and no amount of uninstalling and reinstalling the HP driver, deleting ghost drivers, cleaning my registry or even reverting to a Windows install state prior to connecting the cursed screen will bring it back. Weirdest thing I've seen on a PC in a long time. Just when I had Helios completely figured out too...)