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Yes I use caliber, but not digital one- no way to get this precision, the piece is very irregular, did this more to you compare with your piece. I will try use a digital.

Yes I use caliber, but not digital one- no way to get this precision,

You can get easily get 0,1mm precision with regular "analog" calipers. That's what the small (Vernier) scale is for. :)

First you read the main line. So in this image, 20mm.

Then you check the smaller scale and see at which number it lines up the most. So 0 is a bit to the right of the line above, so is 1 and 2. The line at 3 seems pretty straight. One bar left from it seems the most straight. So 28.

So this scale reads 20,28mm == 2,028cm :thumbup: (technically the caliper I used in this image has 0,2mm precision, but with some good eyework you can work out pretty accurately the 0,1mm difference)

You can get easily get 0,1mm precision with regular "analog" calipers. That's what the small (Vernier) scale is for. :)

 

 

First you read the main line. So in this image, 2cm.

Then you check the smaller scale and see at which number it lines up the most. So 0 is a bit to the right of the line above, so is 1 and 2. The line at 3 seems pretty straight. One bar left from it seems the most straight. So 28.

 

So this scale reads 2,28cm :thumbup: (technically the caliper I used in this image has 0,2mm precision, but with some good eyework you can work out pretty accurately the 0,1mm difference)

WOW! That is cool I learned something today! Thanks for sharing. Of coarse I do have a digital caliper.

You can get easily get 0,1mm precision with regular "analog" calipers. That's what the small (Vernier) scale is for. :)

 

 

First you read the main line. So in this image, 2cm.

Then you check the smaller scale and see at which number it lines up the most. So 0 is a bit to the right of the line above, so is 1 and 2. The line at 3 seems pretty straight. One bar left from it seems the most straight. So 28.

 

So this scale reads 2,28cm :thumbup: (technically the caliper I used in this image has 0,2mm precision, but with some good eyework you can work out pretty accurately the 0,1mm difference)

The caliper shows 20,28 mm, or 2,028 cm. :)

The caliper shows 20,28 mm, or 2,028 cm. :)

You are absolutely right. Guess I messed up because I wanted to explain it in cm's (serves me right for using centimeters instead of millimeters :cry: ).

Corrected my original post (and grabbed a cuppa joe) :music_whistling: :D

LOL, never pay attention in this small scale. :)

Thanks for the tip.

Measure again - this time in mm.

The only critical dimensions are tube OD diameter and bolt location - in red numbers.

The yellow areas can be add in tabs for reinforcement, if needed.

Great work Sokol! I'll do it in next few days.

Can you just verify that it is Top Gun?

Can you make photos of inside of top gun stick?

Picture of inside grip or base, or both?

I have only Top Gun base (sell their grip).

The grip that I use to take measures is from Tm FCS Mk.I or II (seems that difference between I and II is in gimbal, at least different rubber hood in II), this stick don't have base anymore - was dismantled by their owner to make a "MOD".

Top Gun seems use the same grip of FCS MK II and I believe same base.

Interesting from this older Tm B-8 is PFCS - metal case with metal gimbal, better made than in Cougar:

http://retroflightsim.blogspot.com.br/2014/10/thrustmaster-fcs-pro-and-wcs-mark-ii.html

These things were expensive at the time, see the sales note.

I need photo inside grip

https://s15.postimg.cc/6z8wlqg0b/FCS_Mk_I.jpg

https://s12.postimg.cc/g8wzlaee5/FCS_3.jpg

Some Epoxi putty as bolt base reinforcement. :)

Here is what you need to make B8 grip from X-fighter compatible with Warthog:

Material:

Tailpiece

2 x 4021 shift registers

2 x 9pin 10k resistor networks

1 x 5pin mini DIN connector

1 x 16 bit shift register PCB

1 x 10k resistor

Gardena nut, metal or plastic

These are not necessary but I strongly recommend them if you are going to be in joystick modding business.

Dupont rainbow cable 20cm

Dupont connectors I simply cut them to size

Male header connectors

heat shrink

First of all PCB. I thought of using 1 chip 8 bit shift register, but then I found out that 2 chip 16 bit shift register should be used. This way when B8 grip is plugged into Warthog base its switches will correspond to Warthog switches. POV hat will be POV hat, trigger will be trigger. Problem is that 16 bit PCB is bigger and it fist inside grip only with some modifications. Nothing too difficult.

Then disassemble the grip. Remove all the wiring except solid core wire that can be seen in photo below.

That is common or ground wire for 4 buttons. POV hat is removed but it has similar wire soldered that is also common.

Here is how to connect switches to PCB:

Switches are named same as inTARGET. I connected common/ground wires to green pads. For this two you can also use any pad above or below, they are marked as COM.

H1U, H1R, H1D and H1L pads are for POV switch.

Next to POV hat is a switch that will correspond to Warthog's S2.

Pinkie corresponds to Warthog's S3.

Thumb switch I connected to Warthog's CMS press switch.

I connected trigger to Warthog's TG1. If you want that trigger corresponds to TG2 connect it to blue pad TG2.

Output wires are marked in same colors that TM uses.

Now disassemble 5pin mini din connector:

I used only 3 parts on the left. Solder like in this scheme:

This is why is good to have rainbow dupont cable. Remove header and simply plug connector like this:

And add just a drop of solder:

All connections are so close so some heat shrink.

This is other side of connector cable:

Inside grip:

It could be prettier but it works.

I haven't bought tailpiece yet. I'll order it in next week or two, but I have tailpiece that I improvised from original. I used Gardena plastic nut. Metal one feels better IMO.

Assembled:

I'll also make a model for bracket/holder for this connector. Same as in Warthog/Cougar. Be careful when removing grip since there is no holder and you could damage the connector.

Finished and tested it works as predicted. I'll test it on real Warthog and Cougar soon, but it should work.

Nice work, I like the idea with the 5pin din connector. I have similar ones I got off Ebay. One piece and heatshrink.

Just noticed Shapeways is running a free shipping thing through Nov 20... good time to buy some of debolestis parts!

I made some tests. It works!!! This is cougar with Über II NXT gimbal and Cubpilot hall sensors. There is a problem with Cougar, there is no CMS press switch on Cougar so it is not seen in windows as button press. Instead of H4P iIt can be connected on pads between TG2 and S3. Those pads are for S1 and S4 switch.

On Warthog everything worked normally.

That is it. Now I'll work on tailpiece for other TM B8 grips, like Top Gun. If somebody owns other models like PFCS or Mk1 and Mk2 and is willing to make measurements like Sokol1 did, I would be very grateful.

Seems like a very tall mod. I already have a 20cm extension on my stick

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It is tall, I improvised, soon I'll print a new tailpiece.

Guys, I don't know if this is a right place for that, but my CMS axis from a TM Warthog has broken, and maybe I can replace that by a 3D printer model. But can't found any data to create that.

Do you have something or know how can I do that?

Thanks.

Borba

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Guys, I don't know if this is a right place for that, but my CMS axis from a TM Warthog has broken, and maybe I can replace that by a 3D printer model. But can't found any data to create that.

Do you have something or know how can I do that?

 

Thanks.

 

Borba

 

 

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Please post photos

Please post photos

I'm out home now, but tomorrow I'll take some pics and post here!

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@Debolestis- I'm about to receive a 3D printer myself- could it be possible to have some of the 3D models so I can print my own stuff?

I know you could be afraid I just start to sell the prints but trust me I get a small-ish Tiko3D so I highly doubt it can be used comemrcially! :P

In any case, sorry for the bother.

Is there any Antenna Elevation mod for Thrustmaster HOTAS Warthog? I could forsake the Coolie Hat for one.

I am not aware of that mod. You need to sacrifice an axis for mod like that.

@Debolestis- I'm about to receive a 3D printer myself- could it be possible to have some of the 3D models so I can print my own stuff?

 

I know you could be afraid I just start to sell the prints but trust me I get a small-ish Tiko3D so I highly doubt it can be used comemrcially! :P

 

In any case, sorry for the bother.

I am sorry but I am not sharing 3D models.

I am sorry but I am not sharing 3D models.

It's cool. :)

Really understandable.

Thanks anyway for answering. :)

I don't own a Warthog but I think it is possible. You can do it like in F15 throttle. There is model for antenna elev. knob in my store. You need to drill a hole for a pot and add 3 wires in left grip.

I don't own a Warthog but I think it is possible. You can do it like in F15 throttle. There is model for antenna elev. knob in my store. You need to drill a hole for a pot and add 3 wires in left grip.

This got me thinking it would be useful/beneficial to make adapters for a ministick as well as single axis pot to make them fit the TM 4-way hole size like the ones you made for the Alps 9-way. That way they could be easily slipped into the same holes either on the stick or just easy mounting elsewhere.

There are some nice pots that are small enough to press into a flanged adapter sleeve, and the male/female miniDIN at the base of the grip could be changed to one with more pins for the passthrough.

I'll try to find a suitable pot and ministick for this...