Improve your X52 precision with this MOD

TO make connection more unshaky inside the stick:

open the whole stick budy upperside. 4 scres for the bow and 4 for the grip. and pull hard ..no worry

the metal axis goes into the stick...metal to plastic connection and is fixed with a small metal BOLT <<< THIs connection and the next C-kind connetion to the rudder Poti u have to fix with superglue.... i mean SUPERglue like J-B WELD or somthing

to make it possible that u can pull the stick out, u have to remove cable by cable from the clip on the end of it ....otherwise u cant pull the cables through the axis....but dont forget the calbe-colors and their places in the white head-clip

THE FRICTION. <<< this u can make without opening everything

if u speak bout friction in pullings << THIS is only caused by the Black Plate scratching on the resting edge ( below the spring ) .. just keep it clean and grease it with teflon spray or graphitfat or silicongrease. The only sliding or scratching part in all movements is this black plate - outside and inside with the metalaxis.

/O forgive my non-coffee early morning english

I noticed ...

I noticed 1 major difference in the pro compared to vanilla

This chip maybe is changing the response but it would be nice if someone who ownes both can post his experience.

Hi folks, sorry to bring back this old dead thread. But the pics in the first few posts decsribing this mod seem to be gone. Can anyone repost the pics please? Thanks.

Also, does this mod still apply to the X52 Pro, or did they fix this issue?

:joystick:

I still didnt find the time to put the pics back, for that Im sorry. Im having a hard time NOT to crash into bed immidiatly after work. Been a tad tired lately, and it also reflects on my online gaming.

_Big_Mac_ has asked me in PM's pictures of this MOD. Mine were lost in a MBT corruption on my old PC. I lack some time to do this, and my stick is getting a little worn out to keep disasembling it every time I need to phtograph it after I dump the files.

Hi folks, sorry to bring back this old dead thread. But the pics in the first few posts decsribing this mod seem to be gone. Can anyone repost the pics please? Thanks.

 

Also, does this mod still apply to the X52 Pro, or did they fix this issue?

 

:joystick:

I now use the same Mod for my X52-Pro, as the 'issue' has not been fixed by Saitek. I am not sure if they are even aware of this.

Finally, I can post! :D Hello everyone.

So, does anyone have the photos of the modding process saved somewhere? They would help a bunch.

Great idea! I really don't understand why Saitek overcomplicated the sensor control unit.

Here you can see my way. I hope the pics speak for themselfs so you don't have to mess with my english skills:smartass:.

Excellent photos, even if this MOD is slighly different from mine. I didnt need to screw on that bit of tin can. Where the magnet is on the second pic, theres a hole underneath where you can stick in a thin screw to place the magnet, then drop a bit of glue in there to keep it in place, after centering the magnet of course.

hmmm.... My X52 goes out of warranty at the end of the month...

Ok here's what I got:

I've got a problem - when I move the stick, instead of a linear axis movement, at some point it goes back. While increasing the deflection, first it goes smoothly to the edge of the calibration window and then, while still deflecting, cause it's not the physical end of gimbal movement, it goes back a bit. Any help?

Also, polarization matters, at first try my X axis was mirrored. I've inverted the magnets and it helped.

Also, bump cause edition doesn't seem to up the thread.

EDIT: I gave up for now, reverted to the original internals.

Great Mod

Very cool find there Pilotasso. Works very good at getting rid of the physical "dead zone" that is inherent with the stick.

Big Mac, just a guess but maybe that square flat metal piece you have on top of the magnet is causing a problem with the magnetic field. I just stacked the two magnets on each other and even though the clearence is very close to the sensor, it works really good.

Thanks for the work here Pilotasso.

Between this and Teka Teka's mods for "no popup trees" and "structures visibility mod" , I can really enjoy lockon again in the A-10.

As I just successfully modded my x52 with the great ideas posted here, I give this thread a BUMP! :smilewink:

Hello, I'm new to the forum, i can't find the images in the Pilotasso post, can someone help me?

Thanks

I just modded my x52, how do you guys get the centering to be perfect ? You move the magnet while watching the output on saitek properties or you just center the magnet on the plastic part ?

I'm just a little bit of center with both axes, but still in the physical dead zone so it's not too bad anyway.

Hello, I'm new to the forum, i can't find the images in the Pilotasso post, can someone help me?

 

Thanks

Yep! I've got the same problem. Too bad.

I have used a wrong oil to lubrificate the friction cup - and it is now BLOCKED. I have to open everything, and I need photos and in the process I don't exlude to try a mod.

Ok guys, I'm attempting to multiquote all the posts with images in this one post. I can see the images on the forums in my MSN browser and I can see them here in this re-post. Let me know if they come through on your end.

If not, I may be able to save the pics and insert them in a new post.

interesting idea Pilotasso, i have to give you some rep for doing this but IMHO there's a bigger problem with the X-52 when it comes to precision. Your first pic was a bit weird showing the X-52 moving around in a diamond shape- mine doesn't do that. Mine actually hits all 4 corners. I think saitek really screwed up on the centering on the stick. This is what i mean: You can take one finger and basically "wiggle" the stick and it shows little or no movement at all in the control panel. (This is without any deadzone.) For the X-52, it doesn't realize its being moved around because what's moving is actually the shaft itself connected to the friction cup below. If you would look closely, you would actually see some space around the hole of the friction cup to the shaft itself. This is why the X-52 can be moved a lot without any signal going into it. You may not notice this during normal combat but in close formation, aerial refueling, level flight...etc, this presents a big problem. In fact, take a look at these pic

normal

moved with one finger (this will NOT send any signal into the game)

the space difference

 

So as you can see, when you are trying to do aerial refueling for example, you would actually be pulling up a lot more than you should in order to get the performance you want. I'm personally looking into the problem and see if there's a way to fix it but kinda afraid i would ruin my stick. I was going to find something that would fill the gap between the friction cup to the metal shaft, but the problem is: what material? Can't be paper because it would suck up the oil. I was thinking about scotch tape. Have the sticky part on the walls inside the frinction cup and the smooth part on the metal shaft. I just gotta do a couple layers all around until the stick and the friction cup is at a tight fit.

Pilot the inside of pro is same EXCATLY

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

HERE WHAT I DID

These photos are only for compare purpouses between X52 a Cyborg Evo (that have a lot of problems also).

 

 

I have done it. Even without double sided tape or fitting screw or glue. I did it in MacGyver style, usingtwo paper clips.

 

 

Picture shows already attached paper clip (fixed with the sprocket's screw) and the attached magnets.

 

If your axis is inverted, just turn the araound. The magnets are not clued to anything, they are just held by magnetic force on the paper clip. So it is easy to adjust the magnet's position any time, very easily.

I was wondering if one of you boys could help me get to this stage

I unscrewed a lot of things but right when i got down to the last part, the metal shaft is connected firmly to some plastic thing and i was wondering how to remove it. I want to get to the friction cup so i can make it more precise.

I noticed 1 major difference in the pro compared to vanilla

 

This chip maybe is changing the response but it would be nice if someone who ownes both can post his experience.

 

Great idea! I really don't understand why Saitek overcomplicated the sensor control unit.

Here you can see my way. I hope the pics speak for themselfs so you don't have to mess with my english skills:smartass:.

Ok here's what I got:

 

I've got a problem - when I move the stick, instead of a linear axis movement, at some point it goes back. While increasing the deflection, first it goes smoothly to the edge of the calibration window and then, while still deflecting, cause it's not the physical end of gimbal movement, it goes back a bit. Any help?

 

Also, polarization matters, at first try my X axis was mirrored. I've inverted the magnets and it helped.

Hi,

I don't see the pictures, and really want to try your mod.

would you please send the pictures to me, or repost them?

Thank You much,

Mike ( glmino ) my email: glennnorris@msn.com

Hi Mike. you arent able to see any of the pics in the previous post (#68 )?

I had went back through the thread and reposted the pics and all but 4 came through (5 of 2009) and they are still viewable now on my msn browser. If you cant see them I can see it they will save and then e-mail them to you, except for the 4 that i dont see. let me know. If you want the 4 missing ones i cant help there.

Hi Mark,

I do see the pics in post #68

I don't know were to get the pics in the post #1, as when I click here: http://www.vimeo.com/9268230

Hi Mark once more,

I do believe this is it: http://www.mektek.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=139226

Let me know if you've seen this before.

Take care,

Mike ( glmino )

P.S.

If I confuse you guys with my name, Glenn Michael, but I go by Mike

rep inbound for Pilotasso and AS!)

This sensor HALL MOD procedure is describe in this forum, too:

http://orbxsystems.com/forums/index.php?topic=3176.msg22992#msg22992

This and tight coil MOD.

Need forum register to access tread. But is easy to do.

Sokol1

Does anyone know the exact dimension for the X-52 spring. I was looking to get a stronger replacement.

I'm getting the X52 Pro and I'm going through this great topic. I will probably MOD mine a day after I get it. Former tampon designers seems to be settled for good in the joysticks industry.

Anyway, what you say about the spring. I don't recommend it. Simply the parts of the joystick are not designed to retain minimal play on crucial working parts under increased load and parts could be seizing if you won't provide extra lubrication.

Edit:

Here are some more pics http://mission4today.com/index.php?name=ForumsPro&file=viewtopic&p=64593

I've just finished. I didn't use any screws. Just semi-elastic glue (butapren) and some pieces of plastic to adjust the magnet-sensor clearance. I went for stacked magnets. There's plenty of space and the problemm of not loosing obsolete magnets is gone.

I had a problem of inverted X axis so I had to flip the magnets. Also I had to delete calibration information from the registry

HKEY_CURRENT_USER\System\CurrentControlSet\Control\MediaProperties\PrivateProperties\DirectInput

I usually delete all the VID keys. Disconect first!