Peter_Pilot Posted May 2, 2013 Posted May 2, 2013 Hi All, I decided to make a new joystick for my helicopter controls based on a CH Fighterstick. The real helicopter grip is good but doesn't have enough buttons, only a hat switch. Hopefully this will be ready in time for the Flight Sim Convention at the Helicopter Museum 18/19th May 2013. Pete.
Stevos758 Posted May 3, 2013 Posted May 3, 2013 Very nice! Can't wait! Facebook Ripp's Garage Tech LLC
Peter_Pilot Posted May 3, 2013 Author Posted May 3, 2013 This is my old stick http://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=1193415&postcount=234
metalnwood Posted May 3, 2013 Posted May 3, 2013 Knarly man, or should I say knurly :) Nice to see another machinist around.
Peter_Pilot Posted May 3, 2013 Author Posted May 3, 2013 Yes, knurling! I've had the lathe a few years but that's the first time I tried knurling. I watched the Tubal Cain videos and tried to work out the pitch of the tool (21 per inch maybe), calculated the necessary diameter and turned as close as I could to that. I tried test impressions on the surface but no matter how many incremental cuts I took I couldn't seem to get a repeating pattern so in the end I just went for it and amazingly got something half reasonable. The knurl isn't fully formed 'cos I got worried it would turn out a mess so I stopped early. Maybe they know the secret in NZ? Pete.
Revvin Posted May 3, 2013 Posted May 3, 2013 That's a pretty comprehensive strip-down of a Fighterstick :)
Peter_Pilot Posted May 3, 2013 Author Posted May 3, 2013 Yes, completely stripped, but I have designed my project so that I could rebuild it if I need to, I havn't modified or broken anything (other than the warranty seal of course!). Peter.
metalnwood Posted May 4, 2013 Posted May 4, 2013 Yes, knurling! I've had the lathe a few years but that's the first time I tried knurling. I watched the Tubal Cain videos and tried to work out the pitch of the tool (21 per inch maybe), calculated the necessary diameter and turned as close as I could to that. I tried test impressions on the surface but no matter how many incremental cuts I took I couldn't seem to get a repeating pattern so in the end I just went for it and amazingly got something half reasonable. The knurl isn't fully formed 'cos I got worried it would turn out a mess so I stopped early. Maybe they know the secret in NZ? Pete. Well it looks good and it looks like it works so thats all that matters. I dont need to do much myself, I think my knurling tool has not been used in about six or seven years :) No secrets in NZ anymore, all our secrets have been found out, much to the dismay of sheep all across the world.
Peter_Pilot Posted May 4, 2013 Author Posted May 4, 2013 No secrets in NZ anymore, all our secrets have been found out, much to the dismay of sheep all across the world. I can't begin to think what you mean :)
Peter_Pilot Posted May 5, 2013 Author Posted May 5, 2013 A little more progress this weekend. I mounted the LED board, installed countersunk screws, started to paint the electronics enclosure and did a trial installation on the gimbal. Even though none of the switches are connected up and the paint was still wet I couldn't resist a quick test with the new Huey, it works fine, it'll be a big improvement once I get it all wired up. Pete.
metalnwood Posted May 5, 2013 Posted May 5, 2013 Nice work. Speaking of sheepskin, that one looks well worn in ;)
Peter_Pilot Posted May 9, 2013 Author Posted May 9, 2013 All finished and working now. Just for decoration I made some bezels for the hat switch and red button on the grip and painted the lower two buttons black, so now my CH Fighterstick is a little bit more hog like and less sheep like :smilewink:.
WildBillKelsoe Posted May 9, 2013 Posted May 9, 2013 FANTASTIC WORK!!! Subbed! AWAITING ED NEW DAMAGE MODEL IMPLEMENTATION FOR WW2 BIRDS Fat T is above, thin T is below. Long T is faster, Short T is slower. Open triangle is AWACS, closed triangle is your own sensors. Double dash is friendly, Single dash is enemy. Circle is friendly. Strobe is jammer. Strobe to dash is under 35 km. HDD is 7 times range key. Radar to 160 km, IRST to 10 km. Stay low, but never slow.
DieHard Posted September 5, 2016 Posted September 5, 2016 Yes, knurling! I've had the lathe a few years but that's the first time I tried knurling. I watched the Tubal Cain videos and tried to work out the pitch of the tool (21 per inch maybe), calculated the necessary diameter and turned as close as I could to that. I tried test impressions on the surface but no matter how many incremental cuts I took I couldn't seem to get a repeating pattern so in the end I just went for it and amazingly got something half reasonable. The knurl isn't fully formed 'cos I got worried it would turn out a mess so I stopped early. Maybe they know the secret in NZ? Pete. https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=how+to+knurl+on+a+lathe [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]
FeistyLemur Posted September 5, 2016 Posted September 5, 2016 (edited) Man I wish I had access to a machine shop. I went into the wrong field. That looks really great. Edited September 5, 2016 by FeistyLemur
Looney Posted September 5, 2016 Posted September 5, 2016 What kind of sensors/rotaries do you use? [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Commodore 64 | MOS6510 | VIC-II | SID6581 | DD 1541 | KCS Power Cartridge | 64Kb | 32Kb external | Arcade Turbo
Sokol1_br Posted September 5, 2016 Posted September 5, 2016 (edited) He use HALL sensor assembled in custom case per Mike Powell suggestion in "Building Recreational Flight Simulators"- the joystick project on this book is available in this sample PDF. http://www.mikesflightdeck.com/downloads/BRFS%20Sample.pdf HALL assembly in page 62. https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=54830&page=3 By "HALL Sensor" read Honeywell SS495A1 or Allegro A1324EUA-T - the best ones for DIY use. BTW - DIY HALL sensor use in joystick MOD/DIY was made "obsolete" by Russian "Magnet Resistance Sensors", eg. MagREZ, MMSens, Komaroff... ;) Edited September 5, 2016 by Sokol1_br
Recommended Posts