Logitech G940 advices?

[betterstranger]

Hi lads!

 

Any profiles for Logitech G940? I'm waiting for delivery of recently bought set...

 

Earlier I was flying on Saitek Cyborg Evo... so it will be a 'little' change ;)

 

Btw. is there a possibility of assigining rudders somehow to throttle?

I'm not sure if I want to use pedals all the time for the rudder :P

 

Regards

[Ovenmit]

Dont use the logitech profiler. Assign buttons and axes in DCS itself.

 

You can use the throttle's R1 & R2 wheels for rudder if you want... IF you are lucky enough to have ones without TERRIBLE spiking...

[Joe Kurr]

Don't fly for more than 2 hours on end, the FFB motors will overheat and stop working without warning.

[Abburo]

I would like to reinforce Ovenmit... DO NOT USE Logitech's piece of crap software. Use DCS ingame options which are very very powerfull and granular. It will take some time, but you don't have to do all at once. More than that, be sure that Logitech's profiler is completely stopped... forever!

 

Regarding heating.... well this can be true only if you are using 100% force feedback strenght. I found myself this value to be too powerfull (I am not a sporty :D) and use FF somewhere between 75-80%. In this case the heat issue is not present anymore.

 

Accelleration pedal is not very ergonomic to be used, the feeling is pretty different then the expected car pedals.... so, yes can be used but the feeling is outside the expectations.

 

For mapping buttons to your HOTAS you can find various posts in "Input Output" forum section that can be a good start for you. Finally, you will be the only one which will know best what is needed and how.

[Ovenmit]

Yeah.. I've NEVER had FFB oveheating issues in DCS or Falcon 4

 

Edit: 70% main FFB strength. I am using the "tape" trick on the sensor too. So FFB is on constantly

Edited October 17, 2014 by Ovenmit

[upupandaway]

Don't fly for more than 2 hours on end, the FFB motors will overheat and stop working without warning.

 

Never had any problems with overheating and I have taped my sensor as well.

 

Would not recommend the use of Logitech software either.

 

I cannot recommend the throttle unit of the G940. The joystick is just fine, but I switched the throttle for an X55 and I´m much happier since.

 

One question I have though is:

 

Why does the FFB in IL2-BoS feel so different (and in my eyes better) than in DCSW? In BoS, the motors produce a far less "grainy" or "grinding" feeling, even at higher FFB instensity settings.

[Ralphk]

i love this thread.... please more input and advices on the g940 :)

[Aginor]

I use the Logitech software only for a few function (cycling external lights in the A-10C and the MiG-21 with one button, for example) and when I use axes for buttons (trimming the A-10C).

But if possible I don't use it. I still think it is better than its reputation.

 

I also taped the sensor on the stick.

I had overheating problems in one DCS module, I think it was the P-51. After hours of flight. But otherwise no problem.

 

I fixed the throttle myself, I opened it and replaced the cables inside it, so the axes stopped jumping. Otherwise the throttle works fine for me.

 

The pedals (the toe brakes to be precise) died after three or four years of using. Now I have the Saitek pro combat pedals. But actually I was pretty happy with the Logitech ones while they worked. Some people complain about them but I could control my planes pretty well with them.

 

All in all I still don't regret buying the G940 back in... can't remember when.

I never had FFB before, and probably will have it never again, so it was nice to try it.

The stick is not too much targeted towards a single aircraft, like the TM Warthog, you can use the switches for whatever you want without getting confused because they are already labeled.

It has enough axes for everything (of course you could always use one or two more, regardless of how many you have), and it has a two-stage trigger, which is nice, especially in the A-10C.

 

 

I am going to replace it in the future I guess, but.... well.... I had hoped for the X-55 to be a cool replacement, and I think it isn't (not much that bothers me but a few things like no dual stage trigger), and the TM Warthog is pretty expensive and it doesn't fit into the attachments I mounted on my desk (I fly F-16 side stick style, which I think doesn't work with the TMWH so well), so I would have to change my "home pit".... Meh. I guess I will keep the G940 until it breaks, and hope for a cool replacement in the future.

 

EDIT: One thing I forgot: You can feel the trim, which is awesome, especially in helicopters. The stick really moves.

Edited October 17, 2014 by Aginor

[SFAL]

Start looking for some one to replace all the cableing in the throttle. It has a design flaw do eventualy it will spike badly!

Tape the stick.

Make sure if u have 100% FFB you mount the stick firmly.

 

Other than that is great. It will be a new level of flying in almost all ac

the trim in choppers is a efin cool thing!

[Ralphk]

I learned recently about the sensor taping thing and it was a God send... now if only dare to rewire the thing... i am afraid of breaking it...

[upupandaway]

the trim in choppers is a efin cool thing!

 

+1

[Abburo]

Planes trimming feels real nice also... SU25s, mustang etc...

 

Despite its flaws is a great hotas and I would not replace it even with the warthog. Of course, I have tuned it with a leo bodnar board and several other extensions. FFB is simply priceless.

[Demon_]

I set the strength of the force feedback to 85%, no "centering spring strength", and i use an icepack :D

[betterstranger]

Thanks for so many answers lads!

 

Well, I've got 2 stupid questions (for now). What the wheel between pedals is for?

And what the wheel on the bottom (under the throttle) of the throttle is for? The black one with +/-

[Demon_]

For adjusting the resistance in the axes.

[betterstranger]

Thank you gentlemen!

 

Is there a possibility to use this MODE switch (1,2,3) on throttle? Because I see my FC3 does not recognise it... :-/

 

Any ideas which buttons should I use as modifiers?

 

And question about mini-joy on the stick. I don't have TrackIR and I would like to use it as camera view joy (something like mouse)... could anyone suggest best solution?

 

Thank you :-)

[Ralphk]

use the pinky switch on the Stick as a modifier... i dont recommend using the mini joy for view, instead use the hat switch below it.

[Ralphk]

and u should definitely consider buying a track ir... cant imagine flying without it anymore.

[Ovenmit]

Thank you gentlemen!

 

Is there a possibility to use this MODE switch (1,2,3) on throttle? Because I see my FC3 does not recognise it... :-/

 

Any ideas which buttons should I use as modifiers?

 

And question about mini-joy on the stick. I don't have TrackIR and I would like to use it as camera view joy (something like mouse)... could anyone suggest best solution?

 

Thank you :-)

 

Mode switch only works in profiler unfortunately.

 

also.. if you're going to be simming a lot... trackir (or some alternative) is more important than a fancy stick.

[Random]

The profiler software isn't THAT bad. It just needs each profile linked to the .exe of the game associated with it. So you may want to duplicate a small rarely used .exe a load of times so you can have multiple profiles for dcs.

 

You can either link the profile to the exe so it loads the correct profile at game startup, or set the profile manually. Manual is the only option for DCS really as you want a profile per aircraft.

 

Another minor issue with the profiler is that the mode switch tends to reset to 1 whenever you add a new command. So if you create the key command when you go to bind it it will usually need resetting again as it will have defaulted to mode 1. Ideally set up your commands 1st, then allocate them to buttons.

 

Other things to consider: Update to the latest firmware for the stick. This eliminates the reversal bug on the X and Y axis.

 

Set "hysteresis" options to minimum via "game controllers" "properties" in windows. This will minimise the reversal bug for the other axis.

 

Finally to completely eliminate the reversal bug you will need to run the axis through a seperate USB controller board like one from Leo Bodnar. This is a relatively big job though requiring you to open up the rudder pedals and throttle and replace wires + extend them outside of the casings.

[Flagrum]

The profiler software isn't THAT bad. It just needs each profile linked to the .exe of the game associated with it. So you may want to duplicate a small rarely used .exe a load of times so you can have multiple profiles for dcs.

 

You can either link the profile to the exe so it loads the correct profile at game startup, or set the profile manually. Manual is the only option for DCS really as you want a profile per aircraft.

 

Another minor issue with the profiler is that the mode switch tends to reset to 1 whenever you add a new command. So if you create the key command when you go to bind it it will usually need resetting again as it will have defaulted to mode 1. Ideally set up your commands 1st, then allocate them to buttons.

 

Other things to consider: Update to the latest firmware for the stick. This eliminates the reversal bug on the X and Y axis.

 

Set "hysteresis" options to minimum via "game controllers" "properties" in windows. This will minimise the reversal bug for the other axis.

 

Finally to completely eliminate the reversal bug you will need to run the axis through a seperate USB controller board like one from Leo Bodnar. This is a relatively big job though requiring you to open up the rudder pedals and throttle and replace wires + extend them outside of the casings.

"reversal bug on the X and Y axis"? Huh? :huh:

 

Never heared of that - could you explain, please? (You don't mean that X and Y axis are swapped sometimes - which is a DCS issue and can be corrected by the Axis setup in DCS, right?)

[Aginor]

As for the multiple profiles for one game thing:

There is another solution.

 

You can do it this way:

 

- Create a new profile

- open the folder where the profiles are (User/Yourname/Appdata/local/logitech/Gaming Software/profiles)

- open your new profile, find where it contains its name, save that somewhere

- open an existing profile you are using for another DCSW plane

- copy the whole content

- paste it into your new file

- replace the name in the new file by the one you saved (looks like the filename)

- also replace the description of course, directly after the name (I think it is called GUid or so)

 

You now have two DCSW profiles. You can't choose them the way you did before, though. You have to use the global profile setting from the settings of the software.

 

That's it.

Edited October 18, 2014 by Aginor

[Random]

"reversal bug on the X and Y axis"? Huh? :huh:

 

Never heared of that - could you explain, please? (You don't mean that X and Y axis are swapped sometimes - which is a DCS issue and can be corrected by the Axis setup in DCS, right?)

 

The reversal bug is THE biggest issue with the G940. It's supposed to be a feature to smooth out spiking pots. It ignores sudden changes in value. This means when you reverse control direction it "sticks" at the old value until a threshold is passed. At which point the new value takes over and you get a sudden control input.

 

Makes small corrections nearly impossible on some axis as you get no response... no response... and suddenly too much as you cross the threshold.

 

Latest firmware makes this threshold VERY small with X and Y (shouldn't be needed at all as X and Y are on a hall sensor!) so it's not noticeable on the stick itself. Unfortunately its still present on the other axis.

[betterstranger]

I think I've got problem with my throttle. Two wheel sliders and throttle interrupt each other.

By that I mean that when I've got throttle max to back or front and I'm using R2 wheel (zoom in this case) the view just jumps as if there was some kind of a problem with the joints of the throttle (right one) and R2.

Sometimes also R1 and R2 wheels gets messed up and when I use R1 (MFD) it changes not only the scale of the radar but also the view...

So definitly something is wrong with the joints or cabels...

Most of the time it's ok (if throttle is not in extreme positions)...

 

But any ideas how to solve these problems?

 

Regards!

[Ovenmit]

If you go into the devices -> game controller settings of the throttle. You will most likely notice the R1 and R2 axes move a bit when you move the throttle. This is due to a massive design flaw in the throttle.

 

There are a few ways to fix it. The easiest is to open up the base and you will see a small screw holding the wires down. Remove it.

 

Just google g940 throttle fix

 

EDIT: obviously opening anything up voids warranty's

Edited October 23, 2014 by Ovenmit