WildBillKelsoe Posted June 23, 2015 Posted June 23, 2015 Hi, I just got my TMWH and my first gun run was something like: B.... Br.. Brrrrr. BRRRRRRRRRRRRR. I think there is a problem with my 2nd stage unless I need to really squeeze it inside without fear of breaking the stick or a component inside. Is this a modeled behaviour? I don't want to snap the most important part of the stick (the trigger). Also, I noticed that the stick is very hard at center (or maybe because I lean towards it (its at desktop level so you can imagine the back pains).. is this normal or do I need to apply Molykote blah blah blah... ? I'm very chickenshit when it comes to dissecting anything without proper documentation, and especially expensive as the WH... If its CH, I have no problem doing it. AWAITING ED NEW DAMAGE MODEL IMPLEMENTATION FOR WW2 BIRDS Fat T is above, thin T is below. Long T is faster, Short T is slower. Open triangle is AWACS, closed triangle is your own sensors. Double dash is friendly, Single dash is enemy. Circle is friendly. Strobe is jammer. Strobe to dash is under 35 km. HDD is 7 times range key. Radar to 160 km, IRST to 10 km. Stay low, but never slow.
Boltz Posted June 23, 2015 Posted June 23, 2015 The trigger is very heavy and so are the other buttons when you are used to a plastic stick. It becomes a very nice feeling though when you are used to the force. Now I worry when I use a plastic stick that I will break it :) A-10C Cockpit Build Thread My YouTube Channel
WildBillKelsoe Posted June 23, 2015 Author Posted June 23, 2015 haha exactly my thoughts (Y) So no fear of breaking the warthog with excessive pulling in of the trigger? wont that ruin the trigger pot at least first stage? I dont want to stare at a single detent after 6 months if you please AWAITING ED NEW DAMAGE MODEL IMPLEMENTATION FOR WW2 BIRDS Fat T is above, thin T is below. Long T is faster, Short T is slower. Open triangle is AWACS, closed triangle is your own sensors. Double dash is friendly, Single dash is enemy. Circle is friendly. Strobe is jammer. Strobe to dash is under 35 km. HDD is 7 times range key. Radar to 160 km, IRST to 10 km. Stay low, but never slow.
TomOnSteam Posted June 23, 2015 Posted June 23, 2015 Squeeze away my friend, the buttons are very strudy :) (I have been pretty rough with mine for well over 3 years (long enough for some of the red paint to come off the trigger) and no sign trouble yet). I felt like a baby when I first got mine because of how much force the buttons required haha. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Cockpit Spectator Mode
Sokol1_br Posted June 23, 2015 Posted June 23, 2015 (edited) So no fear of breaking the warthog with excessive pulling in of the trigger? wont that ruin the trigger pot at least first stage? What are under the trigger is two micro-switchs and coils: To press the second stage is need press agaist two coils, with the first near his maximum compression. For WW II sims people use put a screw in the place of blue draw lines, bypassing the 1st (or 2nd...) stage, as this extra "realistic" pressure for the second stage can ruin their aim. :) http://theairtacticalassaultgroup.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=3903&d=1377789438 Edited June 23, 2015 by Sokol1_br
WildBillKelsoe Posted June 24, 2015 Author Posted June 24, 2015 Ah ok. This settles it then. Thanks guys AWAITING ED NEW DAMAGE MODEL IMPLEMENTATION FOR WW2 BIRDS Fat T is above, thin T is below. Long T is faster, Short T is slower. Open triangle is AWACS, closed triangle is your own sensors. Double dash is friendly, Single dash is enemy. Circle is friendly. Strobe is jammer. Strobe to dash is under 35 km. HDD is 7 times range key. Radar to 160 km, IRST to 10 km. Stay low, but never slow.
GurbY Posted June 24, 2015 Posted June 24, 2015 What are under the trigger is two micro-switchs and coils: To press the second stage is need press agaist two coils, with the first near his maximum compression. For WW II sims people use put a screw in the place of blue draw lines, bypassing the 1st (or 2nd...) stage, as this extra "realistic" pressure for the second stage can ruin their aim. :) http://theairtacticalassaultgroup.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=3903&d=1377789438 I wonder why you should do that...?? Why not define the first stage trigger as main trigger, and work with a modifier to move the function of the second stage (cannon?) to the first stage with modifier..?
7rooper Posted June 24, 2015 Posted June 24, 2015 The trigger is very heavy and so are the other buttons when you are used to a plastic stick. It becomes a very nice feeling though when you are used to the force. Now I worry when I use a plastic stick that I will break it :) Correct! I had the same fear when was squeezing my WH buttons 'cause I was accustomed to plastic sticks but then you'll notice how realistic is to operate a trigger with this force and how satisfactory it is to feel it that way My rig specs: Intel Core i7 4770 @3.4Ghz // Corsair 16GB DDR3 // MoBo Asus Z87K // HDD 1TB 7200RPM // eVGA Nvidia GTX 760GT 2GB DDR5 // LG 3D 47" 1920x1080 // Thrustmaster Warthog HOTAS // Saitek Combat Pro Pedals // Thrustmaster MFD Cougar pack // PS3 Eye + FTNOIR
Svend_Dellepude Posted June 24, 2015 Posted June 24, 2015 Got one of the first ones. All the paint has almost come off the stick, but the buttons still works. [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Win10 64, Asus Maximus VIII Formula, i5 6600K, Geforce 980 GTX Ti, 32 GB Ram, Samsung EVO SSD.
WildBillKelsoe Posted June 25, 2015 Author Posted June 25, 2015 If only thrustmaster would add a shaking or vibrating effect to the cannon. That would be awesome! AWAITING ED NEW DAMAGE MODEL IMPLEMENTATION FOR WW2 BIRDS Fat T is above, thin T is below. Long T is faster, Short T is slower. Open triangle is AWACS, closed triangle is your own sensors. Double dash is friendly, Single dash is enemy. Circle is friendly. Strobe is jammer. Strobe to dash is under 35 km. HDD is 7 times range key. Radar to 160 km, IRST to 10 km. Stay low, but never slow.
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