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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Hey Debolestis! Which of these HAT buttons fit to ALPS RKJXL switches? This one eg? click Can you recommend the high def acrylate material over the normal nylon SLS for buttons? Also where did you get the info about 10% off from?

Cougar, CH and Saitek PnP hall sensor kits + shift registers: https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=220916

 

Shapeways store for DIY flight simming equipment and repair: https://www.shapeways.com/shops/rel4y-diy-joystick-flight-simming

Posted (edited)

Well I read nothing about 10% off tomorrow. This makes the difference of ordering today or tomorrow, hence I am asking.

 

Edit: Ok going for tomorrow.

Edited by rel4y

Cougar, CH and Saitek PnP hall sensor kits + shift registers: https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=220916

 

Shapeways store for DIY flight simming equipment and repair: https://www.shapeways.com/shops/rel4y-diy-joystick-flight-simming

Posted
Hey Debolestis! Which of these HAT buttons fit to ALPS RKJXL switches? This one eg? click Can you recommend the high def acrylate material over the normal nylon SLS for buttons? Also where did you get the info about 10% off from?

 

All knobs fit with THIS adapter. There are photos of it HERE.

Posted (edited)

Hi Debolestis,

I've had a critical breakup with my Warthog.

Something very similar to this user -> https://imgur.com/a/RYg3q

 

The Pictures of my accident can be seen here. https://forums.mudspike.com/t/the-5-stages-of-hardware-loss/632/15?u=komemiute

 

I intend to buy this product here https://www.shapeways.com/product/DCM5AA9W3/thrustmaster-joystick-tailpiece?optionId=58829277

as a replacement.

 

Can you confirm me that the plastic is not going to be break in a year?

 

Note: I removed the big strong recentering coil from the bottom of the Stick so there's not so much stress applied to it.

 

Also, being in Europe, is there a way for you to print parts over here so there's no import taxes?

Edited by komemiute
Posted

I stared to experiment with new tail piece. X36 to Warthog/Cougar. I think that X45 could also be used with it but I am not 100% sure.

 

Here is version 1.

zUtZfGH.jpg

 

And here it is installed.

eTNVK6h.jpg

 

Why I did this? I kind of like this grip, maybe it will be useful in the future. It also looks a lot like flight stick from elite dangerous. I still need to design new PCB for it.

edi8.jpg

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

I always thought the Elite dangerous stick was modelled after the X52.

My controls & seat

 

Main controls: , BRD-N v4 Flightstick (Kreml C5 controller), TM Warthog Throttle (Kreml F3 controller), BRD-F2 Restyling Bf-109 Pedals w. damper, TrackIR5, Gametrix KW-908 (integrated into RAV4 seat)

Stick grips:

Thrustmaster Warthog

Thrustmaster Cougar (x2)

Thrustmaster F-16 FLCS

BRD KG13

 

Standby controls:

BRD-M2 Mi-8 Pedals (Ruddermaster controller)

BRD-N v3 Flightstick w. exch. grip upgrade (Kreml C5 controller)

Thrustmaster Cougar Throttle

Pilot seat

 

 

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Hello Debolestis

 

Some time ago I ordered from shapeways your hotas cougar locking nut in metal

This morning I had a chance to finally try it on my cougar but no joy

The two slots were too small compared to the original and needed to be enlarged, but this is not a big deal

The real problem is the thread of the locking nut

It's not correct and it will not screw on the cougar base.

I even tried to correct the thread a little bit filing here and there with my dremel but there is no way, it will not screw.

It doesn't matter since the shapeways guys were so nice to offer a refund but I really like this part and I would like to buy a working one

Is there any way you could review this part and adjust where needed?

on shapeways store it says the part is untested but I just had a look back in this thread and I saw the cougar locking nut mounted and screwed on the cougar base

So how come the part is untested?

do you have any idea why mine didn't work?

Is it possible some printing defect?

may be because is metal?

sorry for the many questions

Just trying to find a solution

Posted
Hello Debolestis

 

Some time ago I ordered from shapeways your hotas cougar locking nut in metal

This morning I had a chance to finally try it on my cougar but no joy

The two slots were too small compared to the original and needed to be enlarged, but this is not a big deal

The real problem is the thread of the locking nut

It's not correct and it will not screw on the cougar base.

I even tried to correct the thread a little bit filing here and there with my dremel but there is no way, it will not screw.

It doesn't matter since the shapeways guys were so nice to offer a refund but I really like this part and I would like to buy a working one

Is there any way you could review this part and adjust where needed?

on shapeways store it says the part is untested but I just had a look back in this thread and I saw the cougar locking nut mounted and screwed on the cougar base

So how come the part is untested?

do you have any idea why mine didn't work?

Is it possible some printing defect?

may be because is metal?

sorry for the many questions

Just trying to find a solution

 

Hi, sorry for that, but this is the reason why part is still untested. I removed metal nut from my store. I don't have time now to work on another version of it.

 

You cannot fix it with Dremel please don't do that. You need M32x2 tap to fix this problem. Like on this eBay sale. But that is expensive part, maybe you can find a metal worker near by who can do this for you. It will not be a big problem because only a a little metal must be removed. I am afraid that is the only way.

 

- Part is untested because of this reason, I always try to get confirmation for all materials. Metal parts have a bit different manufacture process, this happened because of that, plastic printing is more precise. I just cannot test all designs in all materials, especially not metals, metal is very expensive.

 

- You can ask anything you want there is no problem with that.

Posted

Thank you for your answer

Yes as you say there is no way to fix it with the dremel, i worked al the day on it and i just gave up now.

But i had to try.

So do you think if i order the plastic one it will work?

And do you think is it strong enough to screw down the Cougar grip firmly without braking?

Thanks a lot for your help!

Posted
Thank you for your answer

Yes as you say there is no way to fix it with the dremel, i worked al the day on it and i just gave up now.

But i had to try.

So do you think if i order the plastic one it will work?

And do you think is it strong enough to screw down the Cougar grip firmly without braking?

Thanks a lot for your help!

 

You cannot fix it with Dremel but you can TAP threads with a tool. I found cheaper tap tool on eBay. It will be easy I think, maybe there is a locksmith in your area who can do this. You can see how to tap holes in

. It is fixable but you need proper tools.

 

Plastic versions are tested and they work, I tested both versions myself on Cougar and Warthog.

 

Can you post a photo of your part?

Posted

Unfortunately it is not fixable anymore because as I said I tried with the dremel all the day

Filing initially a little bit, then a bit more, then more, then more

And I ended up damaging it even more.

 

I wish I had asked you this before starting to try and fix it by myself

Never mind, lesson learned, ask before improvising something...

Anyway thanks a lot for trying to help Debolestis

Posted
You cannot fix it with Dremel but you can TAP threads with a tool. I found cheaper tap tool on eBay. It will be easy I think, maybe there is a locksmith in your area who can do this. You can see how to tap holes in
. It is fixable but you need proper tools.

 

Plastic versions are tested and they work, I tested both versions myself on Cougar and Warthog.

 

Can you post a photo of your part?

 

That's the wrong size.. should be M36x2, that is m32.

 

A tap will not be able to clean these theads up unless you bot a special one called a 'bottoming tap'. Due to the shallow depth vs the large diameter, a normal tap is far too tapered to clean the threads up before bottoming out.

 

I sometimes cut tapered taps with a diamond tool/water to diy my own bottoming taps because they cost a lot more in most cases, especially m36x2!

 

I suspect the issue with printed metal is that there is shrinkage going from fusing temps to room temp. It can likely be compensated for by making models for metal printing say 5% larger, but without knowing the exact shrinkage ratio it would be hard to get right.

 

There is also some variance even using the same materials, depending on several other variables but once you knew the expected range it could be compensated for.

 

If you model a reference object and have it printed in metal, measuring it's actual dimensions vs modeled dimensions might give you a close approximation to go from.

 

If someone can precisely measure the metal one that's a problem, you might be able to figure out how much to compensate by from that. It needs to be precisely measured for this but comparing actual results to the modeled part should provide the answers.

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