Baz000 Posted August 20, 2017 Share Posted August 20, 2017 I ordered the warthog throttle detent and it works like a charm... Very pleased with it. No more pull up and push for afterburner, just push through now, perfect solution Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
debolestis Posted August 20, 2017 Author Share Posted August 20, 2017 You should make it the model with the pinky trigger on it (C model?), and perhaps adding a faux collar (the nut with the knurling) Yes I'll do that, probably nobody's going to buy it, but it doesn't matter. Save - Debolestis' Shapeways store - Debolestis' Facebook page - Suncom SFS and Talon restoration and mods - Cougar replacement gimbal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
debolestis Posted August 20, 2017 Author Share Posted August 20, 2017 I ordered the warthog throttle detent and it works like a charm... Very pleased with it. No more pull up and push for afterburner, just push through now, perfect solution I saw Warthog throttle only once, I remember that levers must been lifted before throttling up. I don't remember afterburner detente. Does this part removes both? - Debolestis' Shapeways store - Debolestis' Facebook page - Suncom SFS and Talon restoration and mods - Cougar replacement gimbal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baz000 Posted August 20, 2017 Share Posted August 20, 2017 The part on the shapeways store makes it so you no longer have to lift up, now you just have to push past resistance at the military power detent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranma13 Posted August 22, 2017 Share Posted August 22, 2017 Would it be possible to get a tailpiece that has a 13-degree tilt forward and a 15-degree offset to the right? According to this schematic: http://www.aerotronicsllc.com/f16ssc.htm The F16 sidestick is supposed to have a 12-degree tilt to the right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rel4y Posted August 22, 2017 Share Posted August 22, 2017 Hey Debolestis! Which plastic would you recommend for the mechanical parts? I dont want the plastic breaking anytime soon... Cougar, CH and Saitek PnP hall sensor kits + shift registers: https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=220916 Shapeways store for DIY flight simming equipment and repair: https://www.shapeways.com/shops/rel4y-diy-joystick-flight-simming Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deadman Posted August 22, 2017 Share Posted August 22, 2017 Aluminum https://www.shapeways.com/shops/a-10c-warthog-supplies https://forum.dcs.world/topic/133818-deadmans-cockpit-base-plans/#comment-133824 CNCs and Laser engravers are great but they can't do squat with out a precise set of plans. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
debolestis Posted August 22, 2017 Author Share Posted August 22, 2017 Would it be possible to get a tailpiece that has a 13-degree tilt forward and a 15-degree offset to the right? According to this schematic: http://www.aerotronicsllc.com/f16ssc.htm The F16 sidestick is supposed to have a 12-degree tilt to the right. OK, I'll do it in next day or two. - Debolestis' Shapeways store - Debolestis' Facebook page - Suncom SFS and Talon restoration and mods - Cougar replacement gimbal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
debolestis Posted August 22, 2017 Author Share Posted August 22, 2017 Hey Debolestis! Which plastic would you recommend for the mechanical parts? I dont want the plastic breaking anytime soon... Shapeways has material that is called "strong and flexible". It is actually nylon. It is very strong, you'll see. I don't know what do you want to build. Metal prints are very expensive compared to nylon and are usually overkill. - Debolestis' Shapeways store - Debolestis' Facebook page - Suncom SFS and Talon restoration and mods - Cougar replacement gimbal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rel4y Posted August 22, 2017 Share Posted August 22, 2017 Shapeways has material that is called "strong and flexible". It is actually nylon. It is very strong, you'll see. I don't know what do you want to build. Metal prints are very expensive compared to nylon and are usually overkill. Baur BRD DS to warthog adapter. Or basically I just want to use the TM M36x2 system, as pretty much anybody offers warthog adapters for their sticks and Gardena nuts are awesome! At the moment I will use it with a CH Combatstick and will design another adapter aound a Gardena nut, which should arrive in the next few days. Do you know if I can accurately print M4 threads with nylon SLS btw? Earlier in your thread you said you cant print M2 or whaterver it was, as its too small. Cougar, CH and Saitek PnP hall sensor kits + shift registers: https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=220916 Shapeways store for DIY flight simming equipment and repair: https://www.shapeways.com/shops/rel4y-diy-joystick-flight-simming Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
debolestis Posted August 22, 2017 Author Share Posted August 22, 2017 Baur BRD DS to warthog adapter. Or basically I just want to use the TM M36x2 system, as pretty much anybody offers warthog adapters for their sticks and Gardena nuts are awesome! At the moment I will use it with a CH Combatstick and will design another adapter aound a Gardena nut, which should arrive in the next few days. Do you know if I can accurately print M4 threads with nylon SLS btw? Earlier in your thread you said you cant print M2 or whaterver it was, as its too small. M4, no way, but you can easily tap that, for nylon you don't even have to use tap tool just screw the bolt into plastic. I printed M36, that works. What sort of Baur gimbal do you have, can you post a photo of it? Save - Debolestis' Shapeways store - Debolestis' Facebook page - Suncom SFS and Talon restoration and mods - Cougar replacement gimbal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rel4y Posted August 22, 2017 Share Posted August 22, 2017 Sorry cant post a photo right now, but it is the one from this thread here. https://translate.google.com/translate?depth=1&hl=de&rurl=translate.google.de&sl=ru&tl=en&u=http://avia-sim.ru/forum/viewtopic.php%3Ff%3D27%26t%3D889%26sid%3D03c28c3f4a0be5be908e87e2f6566c9d M4, no way, but you can easily tap that, for nylon you don't even have to use tap tool just screw the bolt into plastic. Shapeways quotes a layer thickness of 0.15mm for SLS, that would be 26 layers for M4, thats not very many. I have no experience with 3D printing so I will just listen to you. :) Could you tell me the top hole diameter of the Gardena nut and approximate top layer thickness please? Btw I can send you the 3D model of the CH Combatstick adapter, then you have the exact measurements for your projects if you are interested. Cougar, CH and Saitek PnP hall sensor kits + shift registers: https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=220916 Shapeways store for DIY flight simming equipment and repair: https://www.shapeways.com/shops/rel4y-diy-joystick-flight-simming Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
debolestis Posted August 22, 2017 Author Share Posted August 22, 2017 Top opening is 25mm, thickness is approximately 3mm. - Debolestis' Shapeways store - Debolestis' Facebook page - Suncom SFS and Talon restoration and mods - Cougar replacement gimbal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rel4y Posted August 23, 2017 Share Posted August 23, 2017 (edited) Thanks again! I am sorry if I am spamming your thread please tell me and I will make a new thread. I removed the M4 threads as you advised and went with the core drill holes of 3,3mm. Today I received the Gardena nut and finished the exterior of the adapter. I found some Mini DIN connectors on Aliexpress, similar to the Warthog. I will go with 6 pin even though the TM connectors are only 5 pin. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10PCS-MDC-S-Terminal-connectors-Mini-PS2-Socket-din-seat-PS2-6P-female-seat-straight-inserted/32822109240.html https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Mini-6-Pin-DIN-Male-Solder-Connector-With-Plastic-Handle-Soldering-cables-DIY-3pcs-lot/32730212630.html I am thinking about putting interlocking "teeth" on the opposing surfaces of the adapters to freely adjust grip rotation, eg in 5° increments. Do you think this whole thing is feasible in Nylon SLS? Initially I wanted to machine it from Aluminium locally, but then I need to wait 2 months and I wouldnt have the possibility to make a cheap prototype. Edit: like this! But I guess it doesnt make much sense for compatibility. :/ Edited August 23, 2017 by rel4y Cougar, CH and Saitek PnP hall sensor kits + shift registers: https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=220916 Shapeways store for DIY flight simming equipment and repair: https://www.shapeways.com/shops/rel4y-diy-joystick-flight-simming Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
debolestis Posted August 24, 2017 Author Share Posted August 24, 2017 Thanks again! I am sorry if I am spamming your thread please tell me and I will make a new thread. I removed the M4 threads as you advised and went with the core drill holes of 3,3mm. Today I received the Gardena nut and finished the exterior of the adapter. I found some Mini DIN connectors on Aliexpress, similar to the Warthog. I will go with 6 pin even though the TM connectors are only 5 pin. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10PCS-MDC-S-Terminal-connectors-Mini-PS2-Socket-din-seat-PS2-6P-female-seat-straight-inserted/32822109240.html https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Mini-6-Pin-DIN-Male-Solder-Connector-With-Plastic-Handle-Soldering-cables-DIY-3pcs-lot/32730212630.html I am thinking about putting interlocking "teeth" on the opposing surfaces of the adapters to freely adjust grip rotation, eg in 5° increments. Do you think this whole thing is feasible in Nylon SLS? Initially I wanted to machine it from Aluminium locally, but then I need to wait 2 months and I wouldnt have the possibility to make a cheap prototype. Edit: like this! But I guess it doesnt make much sense for compatibility. :/ I think it looks OK, when you upload to Shapeways model will be checked and you'll be informed if there are any problems. I don't know if teeth are necessary, it is up to you. Save - Debolestis' Shapeways store - Debolestis' Facebook page - Suncom SFS and Talon restoration and mods - Cougar replacement gimbal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
debolestis Posted August 24, 2017 Author Share Posted August 24, 2017 Would it be possible to get a tailpiece that has a 13-degree tilt forward and a 15-degree offset to the right? According to this schematic: http://www.aerotronicsllc.com/f16ssc.htm The F16 sidestick is supposed to have a 12-degree tilt to the right. It is uploaded to my Shapeways store, you can buy it HERE. - Debolestis' Shapeways store - Debolestis' Facebook page - Suncom SFS and Talon restoration and mods - Cougar replacement gimbal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranma13 Posted August 25, 2017 Share Posted August 25, 2017 It is uploaded to my Shapeways store, you can buy it HERE. Thanks! I'm planning to use it with the FFSB R3 force sensing mod. Will the plastic version be strong enough for this, or do I need the steel version? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vladinsky Posted August 25, 2017 Share Posted August 25, 2017 I would definitely recommend the steel print if you're going to use the full 13lbs, I felt uneasy even using the default warthog one. The 15 degree rotation is only for the actual input axis, not the grip. You can set this up with the FSSB software. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
debolestis Posted August 25, 2017 Author Share Posted August 25, 2017 Thanks! I'm planning to use it with the FFSB R3 force sensing mod. Will the plastic version be strong enough for this, or do I need the steel version? I don't know. Only issue I had with my tailpieces was with FFSB R3 user who reported wobbling when tailpiece was installed. He used metal tailpiece. I don't know if that particular Warthog was flawed or there was problem with tailpiece. I had no other complaints, if you are not sure use plastic tailpiece and test it for yourself. - Debolestis' Shapeways store - Debolestis' Facebook page - Suncom SFS and Talon restoration and mods - Cougar replacement gimbal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
debolestis Posted August 25, 2017 Author Share Posted August 25, 2017 (edited) I added a few new parts. First I needed D-sub blanks/covers. Sometimes when I mod joysticks there are usually a few of D-sub openings that look ugly. There are many D-sub variants, I draw DE-9 and DA-15, I think those are the most common. DE-9 DA-15 For installation you need two M3 screws and nuts. Nuts fits into hexagonal slot on the back side. I have also made two versions of locking nut for Cougar or Warthog. One that looks like F-16 nut and one that looks like F-15 nut. They are not 100% the same, I had problems drawing knurled surfaces, I did the best that I could, 3D printers have restrictions. F-16 Version Original F-15 Version Original These models are not tested, I hope they'll work.Save Save Edited August 25, 2017 by debolestis - Debolestis' Shapeways store - Debolestis' Facebook page - Suncom SFS and Talon restoration and mods - Cougar replacement gimbal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thadiun Okona Posted August 26, 2017 Share Posted August 26, 2017 I added a few new parts. First I needed D-sub blanks/covers. Sometimes when I mod joysticks there are usually a few of D-sub openings that look ugly. There are many D-sub variants, I draw DE-9 and DA-15, I think those are the most common. DE-9 DA-15 For installation you need two M3 screws and nuts. Nuts fits into hexagonal slot on the back side. I have also made two versions of locking nut for Cougar or Warthog. One that looks like F-16 nut and one that looks like F-15 nut. They are not 100% the same, I had problems drawing knurled surfaces, I did the best that I could, 3D printers have restrictions. F-16 Version Original F-15 Version Original These models are not tested, I hope they'll work.Save Save Beautiful. Having a few of these I've machined for myself a word of warning when using a collar that takes up the full space under the grip: The threads will engage before the miniDIN. You need to go very slowly and feel your way to make sure the miniDIN goes in right. Unlike these, on the stock TM setup the collar is narrow enough to lift out of the way and plug the connector first, then bring the threads together. Don't ask me how I know! :p Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
debolestis Posted August 29, 2017 Author Share Posted August 29, 2017 These collars are of same height as Gardena nuts. Din connector can go first. I'll make some prints next month, collars are on top og my list. Shapeways has new version of nylon: black and grey polished. Black nylon parts were not as nice as other colours, now there is smooth black and finaly grey. Gray and black are in beta phase, I hope they'll be aproved soon. - Debolestis' Shapeways store - Debolestis' Facebook page - Suncom SFS and Talon restoration and mods - Cougar replacement gimbal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
debolestis Posted September 15, 2017 Author Share Posted September 15, 2017 Free shipping on Shapeways on all orders over 25$ until 24th September. - Debolestis' Shapeways store - Debolestis' Facebook page - Suncom SFS and Talon restoration and mods - Cougar replacement gimbal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
debolestis Posted September 20, 2017 Author Share Posted September 20, 2017 I made this print: It is cover for D-sub DE-9 connector. I print it in new material that is in test phase, black polished. It has more smooth look, not like acrylate but it is OK. I hope that it will be soon released for everybody, at the moment I can only print my own designs with this material. This is back side with slot for M3 nuts. Nuts installed: And mounted: I know nobody will print this, but that opening was annoying, and now I feel good. - Debolestis' Shapeways store - Debolestis' Facebook page - Suncom SFS and Talon restoration and mods - Cougar replacement gimbal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
debolestis Posted September 20, 2017 Author Share Posted September 20, 2017 New print!!! This is F-16 style locking nut, printed in new material gray and polished. It is a bit darker than I expected but looks nice. Finally there is real grey color, for now in test phase. I hope it will be released soon. The collar looks very nice, knurled parts are also very well printed, much better then I expected. Threads are also very well printed. Another view of knurled part. I don't have Warthog base but nut fits on Cougar, so Warthog should be OK. I have this part of Cougar base. It also fits on my 3D printed gimbal. I didn't photographed replacement procedure but it was easy. Just be careful when putting everything back together. There are many tiny wires inside Warthog grip. Here it is mounted on my 3D printed gimbal. - Debolestis' Shapeways store - Debolestis' Facebook page - Suncom SFS and Talon restoration and mods - Cougar replacement gimbal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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