Headwarp Posted April 20, 2016 Posted April 20, 2016 I already opened up mine, both the pedal itself, cleaning the pot, and the lower board with the 20 screws. Probably my warranty is void now. The issue described in your OP sounds like a wire contact issue or a short. Could be the pot went bad but having replaced the pots on one of my bass guitars.. the old dirty ones still worked.. they were just noisy and replacing them seemed easier than cleaning old dirty pots and probably provided better results. Might be worth checking the soldering jobs. Spoiler Win 11 Pro, z790 i9 13900k, RTX 4090 , 64GB DDR 6400GB, OS and DCS are on separate pci-e 4.0 drives Sim hardware - VKB MCG Ultimate with 200mm extension, Virpil T-50CM3 Dual throttles. Blackhog B-explorer (A), TM Cougar MFD's (two), MFG Crosswinds with dampener. Obutto R3volution gaming pit.
Sokol1_br Posted April 20, 2016 Posted April 20, 2016 Why you guys don't try replace this Saitek Pedal potentiomters with this HALL sensor? [ame]http://www.bitechnologies.com/pdfs/6120.pdf[/ame] http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/4193506/Re:_MMJoy/MMjoy2_-_Build_your_#Post4193506 Cost 15$ and have similar physical size - important detail - and is wired like the pot, with 3 wires (+5V, Gnd, Signal).
SCU Posted April 21, 2016 Author Posted April 21, 2016 The issue described in your OP sounds like a wire contact issue or a short. Could be the pot went bad but having replaced the pots on one of my bass guitars.. the old dirty ones still worked.. they were just noisy and replacing them seemed easier than cleaning old dirty pots and probably provided better results. Might be worth checking the soldering jobs. I'm not very experienced in electronics obviously but I'll try checking the wires. By the way I did try cleaning the pot with contact cleaner but that didn't work. Why you guys don't try replace this Saitek Pedal potentiomters with this HALL sensor? Might give that a try. Is the model 6120 the best for saitek pedals? Cheers mate. HOTAS: Thrustmaster Warthog PC: it's much better now
Sokol1_br Posted April 21, 2016 Posted April 21, 2016 Look at Bi-Tech 612x line, are different axis diameter options. You need one that match the Saitek pot to avoid laborious adaptations. http://www.bitechnologies.com/products/RotarySensorsNonContacting.htm
Ramstein Posted April 21, 2016 Posted April 21, 2016 the plastic breaks off, and no fix for broken plastic... if it only needs the pot, then try it... ASUS Strix Z790-H, i9-13900, WartHog HOTAS and MFG Crosswind G.Skill 64 GB Ram, 2TB SSD EVGA Nvidia RTX 2080-TI (trying to hang on for a bit longer) 55" Sony OLED TV, Oculus VR
sigmoul Posted September 15, 2016 Posted September 15, 2016 Hi, I'm experiencing the same problem. One of my toe brake is not working anymore just after one year of use. No more input on axis :( I disassembled rudder and found that a wire was cut... Anyone know how to solder this thin weird wire (it's looks like a guitar string). I don't even know if it's possible to bare it... Regards.
Bearfoot Posted September 15, 2016 Posted September 15, 2016 Same here -- right toe brake died in less than a year. Except in my case, no signal rather than continuous signal. The "S" is "POS" is "Saitek". I ordered a set of MFG Crosswinds. Work of art that works.
Bearfoot Posted September 15, 2016 Posted September 15, 2016 It's like a 3-4 month wait time once you place the order and he doesn't bill you until it's ready to ship. The wait drove me crazy but only because I didn't have much else for rudder input at the time. If you look at the MFG review thread still on the first page you can see it seems like he's pretty busy making these things based on the serial numbers. It seems turn around times might be faster now? I placed order on Jul 12, shipped on Aug 25, received (US) on Sept 1.
Sokol1_br Posted September 15, 2016 Posted September 15, 2016 (edited) A broken wire for pot' is not motive for buy other rudder pedals set - but a good excuse. ;) What commonly is "terminal" for Saitek's is a defective/worm out potentiometer, because although pot are commonly and cheap and don't use "Alien technology" looks that ones used in joystick (30-60 degrees of electric travel) are made in a secret factory in the dark side of the Moon. You simple don't find then for buy. :huh: So, if the owner wallet, or his "Boss" (wife) :) don't approve a Baur, MFG, Slaw, VKB pedals "Next Gen" and he don't want buy again "more of the same" (Saiteks, CH, Tm TFRP pot' based pedals), need be creative. - Potentiometers, who make "joe brakes" brake, is wired with 3 wires: +5V Signal Gnd. You don't need use only that "capillary" wires find inside pedals. Saitek use then because are the most cheap they find, not because are the best or the only that work. Find a strong 3 wires cable, e.g. shielded microphone cables, mouse/keyboard cables... And replace all wire. Required solder tools and skill. ;) Edited September 15, 2016 by Sokol1_br
streakeagle Posted September 17, 2016 Posted September 17, 2016 I guess I must be really lucky. I have had my Saitek Pro Rudder Pedals since 2007 and have used them pretty much daily since then for countless hours. The only things that have failed are the spring locks that allow adjustment of the pedal length. So, both my pedals are free to slide and normally rest in the shortest length. They never slide or act loose with pressure applied since my feet provide friction and are secured at the heel of the pedal... so no problem unless I am barefoot and don't like having my toes dangle over the end. Looking at the calibration test, all three axes are still clean/linear. I really can't complain. [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]
Deceter Posted December 2, 2016 Posted December 2, 2016 Hi, I'm experiencing the same problem. One of my toe brake is not working anymore just after one year of use. No more input on axis :( I disassembled rudder and found that a wire was cut... Anyone know how to solder this thin weird wire (it's looks like a guitar string). I don't even know if it's possible to bare it... Regards. I have the right toe brake out too. I pulled apart the base and found this same cut wire. I don't think it's related but if someone that's familiar with the internals could confirm or deny that would be great! I've tried getting the pedal cover off but I'll need some better tools than a flat head screw driver!
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