RustBelt Posted January 19 Posted January 19 Isn’t that already available? I have one or one very much like it living in my “Someday when I get a 500x500x500mm Core XY” folder.
Jar72 Posted January 19 Posted January 19 (edited) Hello everyone, Quick update as Step 2 is complete on my side, all panels, VDI... OK, all but clock, bingo and G-meter. That will wait. I am happy to share and attach my designs. They are functional, with basically the bare minimum to my liking, and certainly far from being as accurate nor beautiful as other ones (such as @AusMumbles's, etc...). But I figured that as a quick and low cost approach, this will do the job. So maybe other people would be interested. I also attach some support for the Arduino Mega and my wheel version (very easy to install with a rotary encoder from Amazon). Quick advice. I had to re-adjust the joystick position, it was a bit too high and forward. The stick still touches the HSD when going extreme top left. But without the same stick as irl, it is a pain to adjust angles and height. So if you have exact location measures and methodology to adjust, I'll take it. Step 3 will be wiring and Arduino coding. I'm not found of that part - 100+ switches :-). Step 4 will be replacing the throttle with the real one, and also the rudder. When I compare with the game by removing my VR headset, I can say center frame is basically in position. But sides panels are a bit moved to the rear, maybe 1 inch (2.5 cm). Having panels cut by CNC should provide better accuracy. Or maybe it's because of VR and there is "some distorsion". Overall, it's really really good enough when playing. Cheers ! JAR Arduino Mega support.STL Wheel - v2.STL Center.zip Left.zip Right.zip Edited January 19 by Jar72 5 6
Gunslinger22 Posted January 19 Posted January 19 1 hour ago, Jar72 said: Hello everyone, Quick update as Step 2 is complete on my side, all panels, VDI... OK, all but clock, bingo and G-meter. That will wait. I am happy to share and attach my designs. They are functional, with basically the bare minimum to my liking, and certainly far from being as accurate nor beautiful as other ones (such as @AusMumbles's, etc...). But I figured that as a quick and low cost approach, this will do the job. So maybe other people would be interested. I also attach some support for the Arduino Mega and my wheel version (very easy to install with a rotary encoder from Amazon). Quick advice. I had to re-adjust the joystick position, it was a bit too high and forward. The stick still touches the HSD when going extreme top left. But without the same stick as irl, it is a pain to adjust angles and height. So if you have exact location measures and methodology to adjust, I'll take it. Step 3 will be wiring and Arduino coding. I'm not found of that part - 100+ switches :-). Step 4 will be replacing the throttle with the real one, and also the rudder. When I compare with the game by removing my VR headset, I can say center frame is basically in position. But sides panels are a bit moved to the rear, maybe 1 inch (2.5 cm). Having panels cut by CNC should provide better accuracy. Or maybe it's because of VR and there is "some distorsion". Overall, it's really really good enough when playing. Cheers ! JAR Arduino Mega support.STL 212.39 kB · 1 download Wheel - v2.STL 24.5 kB · 1 download Center.zip 179.87 kB · 1 download Left.zip 260.5 kB · 2 downloads Right.zip 517.37 kB · 2 downloads Mate this looks phenomenal! Crazy what you blokes can make with 3D printers, while I have no regrets with the pit I made, it sure would have been nice to be able to 3D print a gauge here and there! 2 "I'm just a dude, playing a dude, disguised as another dude."
BULLITT83 Posted January 19 Posted January 19 (edited) @ITR1102 I look on my pit . Angle of side panel is around 24 Degrees Edited January 19 by BULLITT83 5
BULLITT83 Posted January 19 Posted January 19 Guys I have modified my wheels casing adding a small system to make some « feeling » when changing the value I will put the stl on the post I made few days ago DF0F1EAB-367D-4EFF-8F3B-903186A79E6C.mov 2 1
Hagen Posted January 20 Posted January 20 (edited) Puisque nous sommes dans les roues, j'ai terminé celui du panneau d'oxygène. Edited January 20 by Hagen 4
AusMumbles Posted January 21 Posted January 21 On 1/19/2025 at 12:31 AM, Hagen said: That's beautiful, @AusMumbles , Great design, will they be available in this topic? Hey @Hagen, If you mean the 3d models for all the parts then yeah they will. @Ltdan853 has been my testing offsider to make sure they work on other people's setups. The amount of work on the pits this year has been incredible. Everyone's pit is look amazing. 8
BULLITT83 Posted January 21 Posted January 21 @AusMumbles holy…. Amazing ! Guy you made the ejection seat switch !! ?? Can see it on top of your seat !! can we get closer pictures please ? @hagen your lighting system is great ! 2
Hagen Posted January 21 Posted January 21 (edited) @AusMumbles Thank you, these pieces are really perfect This weekend I was just on the modeling the ejection seat switch. For the small shock absorber I ordered this small shock absorber : Aliexpress Edited January 21 by Hagen 3
AusMumbles Posted January 21 Posted January 21 (edited) That switch is about 1000% nicer than mine. I'll take 2! Got the screens exporting this afternoon. Edited January 21 by AusMumbles 8
Ltdan853 Posted January 21 Posted January 21 23 minutes ago, AusMumbles said: That switch is about 1000% nicer than mine. I'll take 2! Got the screens exporting this afternoon. Amazing!!!! 2
Hagen Posted January 21 Posted January 21 (edited) 41 minutes ago, AusMumbles said: Ce commutateur est environ 1000% plus joli que le mien. J'en prendrais bien 2 ! J'ai exporté les écrans cet après-midi. It looks really good. As soon as I receive the small shock absorber, I finalize it and post it. Edited January 21 by Hagen 2
draconus Posted January 21 Posted January 21 On 1/16/2025 at 11:07 PM, Elo said: Where are this pics from? On 1/17/2025 at 5:21 PM, BULLITT83 said: that s not a D model .. what’s that ? Where are the weapons controls since the wcp dissepear ? It's a B(U) as (upgrade) - not yet announced by HB. Buttons are moved here: with the ACM switch on the left side (hidden in the picture). 1 Win10 i7-10700KF 32GB RTX4070S Quest 3 T16000M VPC CDT-VMAX TFRP FC3 F-14A/B F-15E CA SC NTTR PG Syria
Bealdor Posted January 21 Posted January 21 2 hours ago, draconus said: Where are this pics from? Heatblur Discord afaik
BULLITT83 Posted January 22 Posted January 22 Hi TOMCATERS ! I ve a doubt, and need your advice/experience, like @Jar72 my stick is too close from the HSD , @AusMumbles, @Hagen can you look at my pictures and tell me if my seat isn't too close from the central panel ? i'm thinking about printing a curve extension for my stick , do you recommend an stl ? there are many of them on thingiverse or 3D culte but which one ? Best regards Guillaume imageproxy.jfif 2
Hagen Posted January 22 Posted January 22 The stick is very close to the HSD, It seems that the right extension of your stick is causing problems, but I don't know of any STL 1
RustBelt Posted January 22 Posted January 22 (edited) On 1/19/2025 at 2:32 PM, BULLITT83 said: @ITR1102 I look on my pit . Angle of side panel is around 24 Degrees Ooo extrusion in place of DZUS rails, smart! 1 hour ago, Hagen said: The stick is very close to the HSD, It seems that the right extension of your stick is causing problems, but I don't know of any STL Needs a goose neck the real stick has a displacement from the pitch axis to get it back and out of the panel. Unless you’re using the actual mechanism, you need to adjust your stick situation to fit the grip in the place it occupies IRL. Each stick base being diffrent. Work from the top of the wrist rest DOWN to solve where the gimbal base goes. Also don’t be surprised if it’s tilted slightly forward or back. As long as you have full authority, it doesn’t matter. Edited January 22 by RustBelt 3
AH_Solid_Snake Posted January 23 Posted January 23 20 hours ago, RustBelt said: Work from the top of the wrist rest DOWN to solve where the gimbal base goes. Also don’t be surprised if it’s tilted slightly forward or back. As long as you have full authority, it doesn’t matter. The other problem with consumer sticks vs the real thing is that they deflect the same amount in both directions. The real stick is something like 2 inches full forward and 4.5 inches full aft deflection. My solution was similar, a 10cm extension with an offset 20cm aft to try and shift the stick back far enough and low enough to push full forward without hitting the HSD or bottom of the VDI. 3
draconus Posted January 23 Posted January 23 57 minutes ago, AH_Solid_Snake said: The real stick is something like 2 inches full forward and 4.5 inches full aft deflection. Why not make a hard limiter for the forward movement? Win10 i7-10700KF 32GB RTX4070S Quest 3 T16000M VPC CDT-VMAX TFRP FC3 F-14A/B F-15E CA SC NTTR PG Syria
AH_Solid_Snake Posted January 24 Posted January 24 22 hours ago, draconus said: Why not make a hard limiter for the forward movement? Its a reasonable question but I've never been able to make that work fully. My biggest problem most recently was going FFB (VPForce and now Moza) and using the axis limiter and even with the software adjusting the endstops to match the X/Y in windows it would not work at all with the DCS F-14 autopilot. As best I can tell the FFB outputs would not be adjusted for the axis limit so just the autopilot active motions would be enough to knock off any ALT HOLD mode for example. Best alternative I've come up with is just offsetting the grip aft.
MAXsenna Posted January 24 Posted January 24 1 hour ago, AH_Solid_Snake said: it would not work at all with the DCS F-14 autopilot. Did you choose FFB trimming in the Special Settings? 1 hour ago, AH_Solid_Snake said: As best I can tell the FFB outputs would not be adjusted for the axis limit so just the autopilot active motions would be enough to knock off any ALT HOLD mode for example. I've never had this issue with my MS FFB2 myself, but have you considered, or maybe you did, provide a track for HB to get to the bottom of this issue? More and more users are getting FFB, and it would be in everyone's best interest to have this issue solved. Cheers!
BULLITT83 Posted January 26 Posted January 26 Finally managed to fit at the good distance my tpr rudder control. … and perform the first flight . My son here on controls. For flights I will remove the windshield . So I make it removable 6
AusMumbles Posted January 26 Posted January 26 (edited) @BULLITT83 Dude!!! That's looking incredible! I'm so glad that my plans have worked for someone else. Suggestion for you, use AR like the warthog project so you don't need to take the canopy off and you can look around. I just got my Pico 4 Ultra delivered today. I'll post some shots soon with it working. https://youtu.be/8r8AUljZXo0?feature=shared What paint scheme are you going to paint on it? Your VDI and HSD buckets look great btw. Edited January 28 by AusMumbles
BULLITT83 Posted January 27 Posted January 27 @AusMumbles yes your plans are great ! You unlock my project which was one idle until I got your plans. thanks a lot again . I really think the community of F14 cockpit build owe you a lot ! i look at the solution you have for the frame of the windshield . It could be a great improvement ! sadly my thrusmaster die just after the picture . It was 10 years old I think… time to change . I m looking at the mongoose base as I got the vfx handle . see you !! 1
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