F-14 Cockpit and instrument dimensions

[Hector45]

11 hours ago, hitmanalpha1 said:

Very nice! I’ve done the AoA Indexer. Haven’t printed the rest yet.  Let me know how yours comes out!

Getting closer! All console panels installed and tested! Gonna take a break and actually enjoy some flying!

Damn man that looks so good! Only thing you're missing is the VKB F14 stick!

[Woody81]

Just did a thing! 

Future videos will have explanations etc, but I'm so happy that this works. I do seem to have coded the wheels and brake lights back to front, but as that's the only issue I'll take it all day long! 

 

 

[RustBelt]

23 hours ago, Biggus said:

I'm quite space-constrained, so no cockpit for me.  I'm jealous of the quality of the work on display in this thread though!

 

I am building switch panels that are more for quality of life than a true 1:1 reflection of reality, but I'm mostly using PCBs to do it.  I print a basic enclosure and mount the PCB to it.  They're not pretty, but they work well enough, are cheap, do not take up too much desk space and are fast to design.  My Jester control board has been revised a few times now, as I've added features, taken away features, changed layouts, and finally changed from a Pro Micro running Mmjoy2 to a Raspberry Pi Pico running a modified sketch based on the Real Robots Configurator.  If I was going to build a cockpit, I'd be inclined to stick with the Pro Micro due to the ease with which you can add shift registers, but being able to mount the Pico directly to the PCB via castellated holes (not to mention price and availability) inspired me to change hardware.

 

I'm not quite finished building the display control panel, as I'm not happy with these particular switches.  But I'm pretty happy with how the panels have turned out so far.  Next panel is going to be for the AP panel (and I'll add an O2 switch and ejection seat arming switch because VR and lazy). 

 

Very cool solution for the Jester menu!

Edited October 1, 2021 by RustBelt

[punk]

Psyko,

Sorry for the delay. This coupled with lunatics work will hopefully help.

Lever length above face plate at rear most point is ~1.5" of the shiny part of the lever at the point touching the back end of the flap throw to the discolored portion on the lever (See photo Flap Lever 01). It then twists rearward and away at ~ 45o angle. From the end point of the first measurement to the end of the lever is ~ 2 " (See photo Flap Lever 01 and 04) .

 

The flap lever handle is secured by a single screw in the middle of the lever so that the lever reads FLAP down the center and is parallel to the throw of the lever (See photo Flap Lever 02) . Keep in mind the bottom of the handle is flat, the top is curved in an airfoil shape with the greatest amount of curve in the last 0.25' - 0.5' at the front of the handle (See photo Flap Lever 03). The trailing and leading edges are rounded (See photo Flap Lever 03). The dimensions of the handle are:

Length: 1.5"
Width: 1"
Rear Thickness:  ~0.5"
Front thickness: ~0.25"

 

Hope this is helpful and what you were looking for.

 

Mumbles,

Sorry for the delay. I am afraid what I thought might have been an ejection handle were ground pins. I may have one from another plane, I will look for it in case it is similar.

 

Salute,

Punk

Edited October 3, 2021 by punk

[PSYKOnz]

That’s perfect! Thank you so much for sending all this through! That’s plenty of info to start cracking on with the build  Is the height of the lever the same when the lever is in its full forward position?

 

thanks again for sending this through! I really appreciate it

[Woody81]

There isn't long left on this (under an hour) but thought I'd share it. Could be useful as a RIO stick? 

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/US-NAVY-GRUMMAN-TRACKER-S-2-AIRCRAFT-SEARCHLIGHT-CONTROL-GRIP-STICK-FLIGHT-SIM-/124928583347?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l6249&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0

[punk]

On 10/4/2021 at 3:25 AM, PSYKOnz said:

That’s perfect! Thank you so much for sending all this through! That’s plenty of info to start cracking on with the build  Is the height of the lever the same when the lever is in its full forward position?

 

thanks again for sending this through! I really appreciate it

No, the forward edge is ~3/16" or so below the point where the shiny part ends (See photo Flap Lever 01). The flap lever pivot point appears to be behind the center point of the throttles. I can try to take a photo of it if you like.

 

Salute,

Punk

[PSYKOnz]

That would be awesome if you could! Thank you so much for all the juicy juicy info!

 

also are there any detents/notches along the travel of the lever? If so can you send some measurements through of the distances? Same for any markings? 
 

if I remember right you said the full travel was 5” from emergency up ti emergency down, if I possibly can I want to work all the different zones into the lever travel 

Edited October 9, 2021 by PSYKOnz

[punk]

14 hours ago, PSYKOnz said:

That would be awesome if you could! Thank you so much for all the juicy juicy info!

 

also are there any detents/notches along the travel of the lever? If so can you send some measurements through of the distances? Same for any markings? 
 

if I remember right you said the full travel was 5” from emergency up ti emergency down, if I possibly can I want to work all the different zones into the lever travel 

 

I will put something together and send it to you, but it might be awhile. Not feeling well right now. I think the measurements you want have been done in a previous post that Mr. Lunatic based his calculations on. Remember, the F-14 doesn't have detentes per se, but uses cut outs in the face plates and spring pressure to hold the levers right.

 

Salute,

Punk

[PSYKOnz]

Awesome, thank you again, I’m not in any real rush for it so when ever you feel up to it is more than fine, I hope you feel better soon, take care and rest up

[Woody81]

On 9/19/2021 at 1:05 AM, AusMumbles said:

Good Morning Gentleman, the temperature is 110°

Holly shit it's Cobra.... Enough crap out of me for for one post.

 

Gunslinger, while the 3d printed stuff looks fancy, the skills required in comparison to you're amazing pit cannot be understated. If you ever do decide to change some of the parts out, all the electronics you have made can just be move over to the 3d printed parts if you ever decide to go down this route. 

 

Lt_Jaeger all the parts, drawings and whatever else you need to make my pit are/will be hosted here for anyone to use. I just like to idiot check my work before I post it to the masses.

3d printing ins't as expensive as you would think once you get your hands on a printer. PLA is about $15-20USD a roll and a decent 3D Printing with a bed large enough to do these parts is in the $550-650 USD dollar range. Something like the Ender 5 Plus isn't a bad option. Just do some research before you squeeze the trigger. 

https://www.creality3dofficial.com/products/creality-ender-5-plus-3d-printer

 

I finished off the HSD this morning. If anyone is going to try and make the screen work let me know if you find a OLED/LCD that fits. 70's era CRT's are a bit hard to come by.

 

I'm hoping by the end of next week most of the 3D designs for the front instrument panels and HUD will be complete. 

 

Punk, Doc Harley or anyone else who can help I would love to grab some measurements for the Gear, Hook and Canopy Jet Handles.

 

Cheers,

Mumbles

 

 

Would something like this be suitable? 

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/For-7inch-Raspberry-Pi-3-LCD-TFT-Display-1024-600-HDMI-VGA-Monitor-Screen-Kit-UK-/194330675030?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l6249&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0

 

I think I'm gonna go with a TV screen behind my MIP and use Helios to display the gauges etc. 

[AusMumbles]

Punk,

As always you are a gem. Hope you are feeling better soon. 

Woody,

I recon it will definitely fit the VDI, I'm currently reworking the HSD to have a thick peice of Acrylic in place and the screen offset to be deeper into the housing to possibly make it work. 

For what its worth the TV screen is a good idea, however the MIP design is very variable in depth and pitch. If you are following the dimensions to the letter you are looking at 4 -6 screens to cover all of them. 

In other news I pulled the trigger on a Flux Beamo. So now I have to teach myself a new machine and design process. 

Cheers,

Mumbles

Edited October 24, 2021 by AusMumbles
Words are hard

[Woody81]

@AusMumbles There are definitely worse problems to have! The beamo looks like a beast of a machine! I use inkscape and K40 whisperer for my K40 and found them pretty easy to use. Having almost finished my first panel (as my skills improve it will most likely be replaced) I've found it not too hard to use. I've done the faceplate first, saved it again as the middle plate and edited the holes, then saved the front again as the back plate and edited the holes so I know they all line up. Maybe give it another week and I'll have a second video up on yt. I'll post pics in here of course once the panel is finished. It's just waiting to be engraved but we've been doing quite a bit stuff in the house so it's been put on back burner for a short while. Those 3D prints looks awesome btw! Really nice! 

Edited October 24, 2021 by Woody81

[Rockerfeller]

@AusMumblesIt looks incredible. I currently building a simple pit, and I used your work as a base. I can't wait to upgrade it with these beautiful 3d printed parts  Thank you for your work.

[VF31_Subsonic]

New Gear Lever action.

[Gunslinger22]

Had nothing to do on Friday, so decided that I'd make the canopy with a functional ECS. The quality of everyone's panels has me jealous and embarrassed for my own attempts, thinking of possibly gutting everything and filling it with Mumbles awesome and accurate 3D stuff and buying my own printer. 

[Lt_Jaeger]

8 minutes ago, Gunslinger22 said:

Had nothing to do on Friday, so decided that I'd make the canopy with a functional ECS. The quality of everyone's panels has me jealous and embarrassed for my own attempts, thinking of possibly gutting everything and filling it with Mumbles awesome and accurate 3D stuff and buying my own printer. 

Yeah, I think you should start from scratch. Just pack everything up and send it to me, I will get rid of it for you, so you got the room to do something new

 

Damn, I'm so envy. 

[LanceCriminal86]

On 11/13/2021 at 2:10 AM, Gunslinger22 said:

Had nothing to do on Friday, so decided that I'd make the canopy with a functional ECS. The quality of everyone's panels has me jealous and embarrassed for my own attempts, thinking of possibly gutting everything and filling it with Mumbles awesome and accurate 3D stuff and buying my own printer. 

1) Let me clean out my office so I can show you the ghettoest rig you ever saw, to make you feel better.

 

2) Has anyone found fabric close to the GRU-7 cushions? It seems like it's a coarse yellow or greenish fabric with square embossed pattern of some kind, probably designed to be tough and not comfy. I am slowly hacking up a cheap chinesium racing seat to get an ejection seat-ish look and feel, and was thinking about making or replacing the existing padded areas with something like that funky fabric. I'm also seeing that using it as dual purpose for work will drive me to add a layer of gel cushion or memory foam or something. Also need to chop the side bolsters off.

Eventually I'd like to take a crack at building the GRU-7 template that was provided here but I'm a fair ways off of that and plywood is now layered with gold apparently.

[Uxi]

I think I want to invent something useful every house will want one of so that I can buy that near complete GRU-7 on evilbay for 25k. 

Or might realistically settle for a laser cutter for Christmas. 

[Gunslinger22]

8 hours ago, LanceCriminal86 said:

1) Let me clean out my office so I can show you the ghettoest rig you ever saw, to make you feel better.

 

2) Has anyone found fabric close to the GRU-7 cushions? It seems like it's a coarse yellow or greenish fabric with square embossed pattern of some kind, probably designed to be tough and not comfy. I am slowly hacking up a cheap chinesium racing seat to get an ejection seat-ish look and feel, and was thinking about making or replacing the existing padded areas with something like that funky fabric. I'm also seeing that using it as dual purpose for work will drive me to add a layer of gel cushion or memory foam or something. Also need to chop the side bolsters off.

Eventually I'd like to take a crack at building the GRU-7 template that was provided here but I'm a fair ways off of that and plywood is now layered with gold apparently.

I found something very similar on some car seat covers, but it wasn’t the right Sandy colour. I ended just simply buying a course cloth that matches the colour and was happy enough. 

[LanceCriminal86]

3 hours ago, Gunslinger22 said:

I found something very similar on some car seat covers, but it wasn’t the right Sandy colour. I ended just simply buying a course cloth that matches the colour and was happy enough. 

I'm looking at "waffle pattern" fabric now, probably won't be perfect but some seem to have a decent enough pattern. Mostly used for towels apparently but maybe I can find a corduroy style, in some kind of mustard or baby poop yellow.

[Woody81]

On 11/13/2021 at 8:10 AM, Gunslinger22 said:

Had nothing to do on Friday, so decided that I'd make the canopy with a functional ECS. The quality of everyone's panels has me jealous and embarrassed for my own attempts, thinking of possibly gutting everything and filling it with Mumbles awesome and accurate 3D stuff and buying my own printer. 

That's nothing to be embarrassed about at all mate, you've clearly gone to great effort and I'd definitely be proud of it. If you feel like you do want to upgrade stuff, just go through it one panel at a time. I've still not finished my first panel  (the wallpapering and carpeting in the house are now done!) but I've already decided to change it. Hopefully I'll have the laser turned on today at some point to do engraving. Can I ask how you made the canopy bow? It looks really good and really sets your pit off. 

Edited November 20, 2021 by Woody81

[Woody81]

First panel fresh off the laser. I need to cut a thing for the rudder trim switch, and it could do with caps on the other switches, but all in all, James is a happy lad!

[Gunslinger22]

So I’ve being doing some work and have been able to add all the pots and encoders required for all the gauges with the VDI/HSD/HUD controls but we don’t have any binds for these yet, has anyone been able to add these axis/binds? 

[Woody81]

Obviously not that far forward myself, but is Helios an option for those inputs? I know that the Warthog project lad uses it for most or all of his inputs.