Blue73 Posted June 4, 2020 Author Posted June 4, 2020 (edited) Hi All, Hood is on now. Edited June 4, 2020 by Blue73
lesthegrngo Posted June 4, 2020 Posted June 4, 2020 3D printed? If so, must have taken a while, and clearly your printer bed is larger that the one on my Lulzbot Mini. It makes nice prints, but limited to a 6 inch cube. For the dash brow on my A10 dash, I will have to use MDF and make a load of parallel cuts with a 30 degree engraving bits so that I can bend the curve around the edges, sort of lobster back style. I hope that it will be good enough, but will have to use the 'suck it and see' approach. Failing that I will have to use my old balsa modelling technique and steam bend a load of 1/32 balsa sheet and glue it like a ply. Hopefully the cut and bend method works as it will save a lot of hassle! Cheers Les
Blue73 Posted June 4, 2020 Author Posted June 4, 2020 Hi Les, yes the whole thing is 3d printed. The total print time would be huge. My print volume is 200mm^3 so that's 8in. I just print in sections and acetone together for big pieces. With the thickness we're talking about for these hoods I think you can gradually bend most woods? Maybe 3d print the shape you're after and bend wood around it? 3D printed? If so, must have taken a while, and clearly your printer bed is larger that the one on my Lulzbot Mini. It makes nice prints, but limited to a 6 inch cube. For the dash brow on my A10 dash, I will have to use MDF and make a load of parallel cuts with a 30 degree engraving bits so that I can bend the curve around the edges, sort of lobster back style. I hope that it will be good enough, but will have to use the 'suck it and see' approach. Failing that I will have to use my old balsa modelling technique and steam bend a load of 1/32 balsa sheet and glue it like a ply. Hopefully the cut and bend method works as it will save a lot of hassle! Cheers Les
lesthegrngo Posted June 4, 2020 Posted June 4, 2020 (edited) Thankfully the A10 coaming is pretty simple, with no compound curves, and seeing as I am not trying to make a 100% accurate replica, I think just using a simple radius and the cut and shut method *should* work. I used in an albeit smaller part for my son's HE111 throttle control quadrant for a game he plays (can't think which) and that came out OK once it was sanded. Ultimately I suppose, if it looks and works OK, it is OK! Les Edited June 4, 2020 by lesthegrngo
Blue73 Posted June 7, 2020 Author Posted June 7, 2020 Images in sim. Creating VR friendly buttons for UFC and DDI's. The DDI's are installed in these pictures. Does make it allot easier.
Blue73 Posted June 7, 2020 Author Posted June 7, 2020 Thanks Guys :thumbup: Now working back over the modules adding text.
NightShiftNinja Posted June 8, 2020 Posted June 8, 2020 3D printed? If so, must have taken a while, and clearly your printer bed is larger that the one on my Lulzbot Mini. It makes nice prints, but limited to a 6 inch cube. For the dash brow on my A10 dash, I will have to use MDF and make a load of parallel cuts with a 30 degree engraving bits so that I can bend the curve around the edges, sort of lobster back style. I hope that it will be good enough, but will have to use the 'suck it and see' approach. Failing that I will have to use my old balsa modelling technique and steam bend a load of 1/32 balsa sheet and glue it like a ply. Hopefully the cut and bend method works as it will save a lot of hassle! Cheers LesLes 1/8" birch plywood would be flexible enough to bend easily into a hood shape. And would be much easier to work with than MDF or self laminating balsa wood Sent from my SM-N975W using Tapatalk
NightShiftNinja Posted June 8, 2020 Posted June 8, 2020 John!!!! You are officially my hero!!!!! Looks amazing Sent from my SM-N975W using Tapatalk
DERacing Posted June 9, 2020 Posted June 9, 2020 Just a couple curious questions. What printer/bed size do you have? What brand/type of filament do you use? What is your nozzle diameter? The reason I ask is you mentioned that you are welding the parts with acetone... So it makes me think your not using pla. More awesome work done though. Looks fantastic! Intel i7 9700k, 64GB DDR4 (Corsair), Gigabyte Z390 Master, RTX 2080 Ti AMP 11gb, 500GB Sabrent Rocket (System), 1TB XPG Gammix S11 Pro M.2 (DCS), Windows 11 64-bit Pro, Samsung 49" 4K CRG9 Monitor (5120x1440), Samsung Odyssey Plus, TrackIR 5, Thrustmaster Warthog Hotas, Various streamdecks, button boxes, Logitech Pro Rudder Pedals, Corsair K95 Platinum, Iron Claw mouse. DCS OB, F-14B Tomcat, F-18C Hornet, F-16C Viper, A-10C Warthog, F-5 Tiger II, AV-8B Harrier, P-51D Mustang, FC3, Super Carrier Thrustmaster Warthog Hotas, (3) Cougar MFD's, Logitech Pro Rudder Pedals, (2) Stream Decks, (1) Stream Deck XL, (1) Stream Deck Mini, Misc Button Boxes
Blue73 Posted June 9, 2020 Author Posted June 9, 2020 John!!!! You are officially my hero!!!!! Looks amazing Sent from my SM-N975W using Tapatalk cheers mate :)
Blue73 Posted June 9, 2020 Author Posted June 9, 2020 Thank you DERacing :thumbup: Zortrax M200 Plus and Zortrax M200. Print volume is 200x200x180mm I buy generic ABS filament from http://www.3dfilies.com. Nozzle diameter is 0.4, except for the top faces with text, the new panels of my recent posts are 0.3 all the other text is using 0.4mm. cheers John Just a couple curious questions. What printer/bed size do you have? What brand/type of filament do you use? What is your nozzle diameter? The reason I ask is you mentioned that you are welding the parts with acetone... So it makes me think your not using pla. More awesome work done though. Looks fantastic!
Wheelyjoe Posted June 24, 2020 Posted June 24, 2020 Hi Blue73! Seems like you're doing amazing work! I'm sure you get a lot of people annoying you about this, but I'm 3/4 of my way through building a dedicated simpit and I would love to use some of your work here to really take it the extra mile. Is there any ETA on release? Could you see your way to releasing some parts that are more finished? Thanks! Wheelyjoe
MustangSally Posted July 9, 2020 Posted July 9, 2020 Looks great mate....would love to print and build the UFC Ryzen 9 7950X3D - MSI MAG X670E TomaHawk MB, ASUS ROG Ryujin III 360 AIO 64gig Corsair DDR5@6000, Gigabyte GeForce RTX 4090 AORUS Winwing Super Taurus, Orion2, TO / Combat panels, Collective with Topgun MIP Winwing Skywalker pedals, NLR Boeing Mil Edition Simpit, 55" Samsung Odyssey Ark, Trackir
Switch625 Posted July 9, 2020 Posted July 9, 2020 Now working back over the modules adding text. That panel looks NICE! How are you getting the nice black finish compared to the panels next to it where you can clearly see the 3D printer 'texture'? Are you painting it? using acetone smoothing? Maybe walk us thru what method you've settled on for finishing the text etc for the panels. Thanks, and great work!
Blue73 Posted July 11, 2020 Author Posted July 11, 2020 Cheers thanks. The top panels are airbrushed with a satin clear coat. It deapens the black and takes off the shine that accentuates the 3d printing texture. Also the tops are now printed with an ABS/Polycarbonate filament. I sand the tops of the text, clean with IPA, hand brush with white paint, air-brush satin clear coat entire panel. That panel looks NICE! How are you getting the nice black finish compared to the panels next to it where you can clearly see the 3D printer 'texture'? Are you painting it? using acetone smoothing? Maybe walk us thru what method you've settled on for finishing the text etc for the panels. Thanks, and great work!
Blue73 Posted July 24, 2020 Author Posted July 24, 2020 (edited) Hi All, I'm working on v2 of the panels, designing them closer to spec (MS25212). CAD work is almost complete. It's made to wrap around the Warthog throttle. Hall effect sensors on all rocket switch covers to sense when they're flipped up. cheers John Edited July 24, 2020 by Blue73
tekadept Posted July 24, 2020 Posted July 24, 2020 Looking very Smick "Lead me, follow me, or get the hell out of my way" (Gen. George Patton) https://www.tekcreations.space
Silver_Dragon Posted July 24, 2020 Posted July 24, 2020 Great Work :thumbup: For Work/Gaming: 28" Philips 246E Monitor - Ryzen 7 1800X - 32 GB DDR4 - nVidia RTX1080 - SSD 860 EVO 1 TB / 860 QVO 1 TB / 860 QVO 2 TB - Win10 Pro - TM HOTAS Warthog / TPR / MDF
Blue73 Posted August 31, 2020 Author Posted August 31, 2020 (edited) Hi, sharing some build pics from v2 of the left panel. Custom slave ccts. Header mounted to Nano. Bus boards Cable management loops, push fit to underside of top plate. FCS Panel Rocket Cover HE sensor Fuel Panel Fuel wiring complete. FCS and Fuel panel paired. IFF and Comms panel, Nano's here also drive Antenna and APU panels. cheers John Edited August 31, 2020 by Blue73 2
skygunner58203 Posted September 17, 2020 Posted September 17, 2020 Did you ever release the files for the V1 and/or the Upper instrument panel?
raus Posted August 27, 2021 Posted August 27, 2021 Sorry for bumping, but... @Blue73 how's the status of the project? Would love seeing where you have reached And, of course, if there are still any plans for releasing files, that would be helpfult for those of us starting similar projects. But first things first, I'd like to see the foreseeable awesome outcome of your efforts. BR GV5Js DATACARD GENERATOR
Bertrandp Posted March 29, 2022 Posted March 29, 2022 Hello @Blue73, great work, I have read all the thread and I am in awe of your work. Do you think one day to share your files (even if not finalized, it would be a great working base for makers) or sell them?
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