Ejection Handle methods?

[thekow]

I am looking at everyone's methods of making an ejection pull to eject switch for my rig.
Few people have made an Arduino sketch some use a BBI board with relay.

Is there a diagram and sketch using a Arduino Nano around? Was thinking about either a 3.5mm jack pull or a mag sensor switch pull.
It's just going to hold a keyring not a full pull handle! Any guides would be appreciated thanks! Not sure what the better method is.

 

[Savvy]

If you had a Micro with the ATmega32u4 then you could make it show up as a USB Joystick which makes it easy to map to a joystick button in DCS.

nullI had a small plate contained in a box, when the ejection hoop is pulled it raises the plate/bar and activates a microswitch. I added some springs to the bottom so it requires a bit of force to activate.

Here's my impressive freehand drawing of it:-

 

[Ala12Rv-Tundra]

11 hours ago, Savvy said:

If you had a Micro with the ATmega32u4 then you could make it show up as a USB Joystick which makes it easy to map to a joystick button in DCS.

nullI had a small plate contained in a box, when the ejection hoop is pulled it raises the plate/bar and activates a microswitch. I added some springs to the bottom so it requires a bit of force to activate.

Here's my impressive freehand drawing of it:-

 

you're very gifted sir

[No1sonuk]

As we're sharing "Crap-O-CAD", this is an idea I had a while ago for a mechanical solution. 
I'd personally use an Arduino and code it, but that's not desirable for some.

[thekow]

I have nanos and mircos and esp.. So any solutions for those would be great i was thinking a magnetic pull on a keyring but i didnt see any specific code to detect the pull. I have a 3d printer too so i could print something. 

 

Edited July 14, 2022 by thekow

[Scott-S6]

Here's a way to get pulses from a simple switch without an Arduino or any extra software. 

https://forum.dcs.world/topic/299916-guide-simple-cheap-standalone-electronic-solution-for-single-pull-ejection/

The most mechanically simple method, imo, is to have a mag switch which is open when the magnet is close. All your handle mechanism has to do is move the magnet away which is easy since you're pulling on the handle. You connect that to your Arduino as a switched digital input.

 

Edited July 15, 2022 by Scott-S6

[No1sonuk]

4 hours ago, Scott-S6 said:

The most mechanically simple method, imo, is to have a mag switch which is open when the magnet is close. All your handle mechanism has to do is move the magnet away which is easy since you're pulling on the handle. You connect that to your Arduino as a switched digital input.

A microswitch held down by the handle would be more reliable. They can usually be wired as normally-open or normally-closed, making the electrical connection easier than a magnetic switch.

[Scott-S6]

9 hours ago, No1sonuk said:

A microswitch held down by the handle would be more reliable. They can usually be wired as normally-open or normally-closed, making the electrical connection easier than a magnetic switch.

I dislike a mechanical switch for this application. If you have a decently stout spring then that switch will get thumped anytime you don't lower the handle very carefully. A mag switch does not have this problem, it's easy to setup your handle so that nothing touches the mag switch.

In what way do you feel that a mechanical switch will be more reliable?

[No1sonuk]

I've found reed switches to be a PITA to get to work well.

If you run too much current, they weld together, and I've had at least one stick magnetically.

A microswitch with a lever bent for strain relief has more reliable contact, can handle more current, and can be wired NO or NC depending on the application. 

If I wanted non-contact, I'd go with beam-break optical.

[thekow]

On 7/16/2022 at 9:41 AM, No1sonuk said:

I've found reed switches to be a PITA to get to work well.

If you run too much current, they weld together, and I've had at least one stick magnetically.

A microswitch with a lever bent for strain relief has more reliable contact, can handle more current, and can be wired NO or NC depending on the application. 

If I wanted non-contact, I'd go with beam-break optical.

Thanks.. I could even have a 3.5mm plug to pull. Maybe i can make a contact switch pull with 3d print. I would like to pull a tag off something i think would be the best for me.

[No1sonuk]

3.5mm sockets usually have switch contacts to disconnect speakers when you plug in headphones.

DC power connectors usually have something similar to disconnect the battery.

You could use that, or just connect two of the plug contacts together and program the electronics to react to the contact being broken.

[hrnet940]

On 7/15/2022 at 7:41 PM, No1sonuk said:

I've found reed switches to be a PITA to get to work well.

If you run too much current, they weld together, and I've had at least one stick magnetically.

A microswitch with a lever bent for strain relief has more reliable contact, can handle more current, and can be wired NO or NC depending on the application. 

If I wanted non-contact, I'd go with beam-break optical.

I don't understand why you NEED to run current of any type through your magnetic reed switch.  Please explain this.  I use a magnetic reed switch for my SEAT SAFE/ARM switch hooked directly to my Mega 2560 board using DCS BIOS and it works like a dream.  It took very little to get everything setup and the magnet in a good place, but it still works perfectly.

I am thinking of using the same switch for my ejection seat (get me outta here) handle.

[No1sonuk]

They're very fine, usually gold-flashed contacts. Even a small current can be too much.

There are many alternatives for the applications in question.

 

 

[Scott-S6]

On 12/19/2022 at 1:21 AM, No1sonuk said:

They're very fine, usually gold-flashed contacts. Even a small current can be too much.

There are many alternatives for the applications in question.

 

 

Being used as a sensor like this is exactly what they're for. There are many millions of them in use as window & door status sensors in security systems all over the world and they are extremely reliable. 

Yes, current passed through them should be low but that isn't a problem here. I've been running significantly more than just sense current through the one in my ejection handle for years. Just because you have misused them in the past (too much current or too powerful a magnet) and caused them to fail doesn't make them not perfectly fine when used correctly.

Also, let's post pics of our ejection handles to make the thread more interesting.

 

Edited December 21, 2022 by Scott-S6

[parkerfly51505]

I use a  magnetic reed switch with a Teensy 2 controller.  It's programmed as a USB keyboard using standard Arduino code and works very well.

 

[Scott-S6]

5 hours ago, parkerfly51505 said:

I use a  magnetic reed switch with a Teensy 2 controller.  It's programmed as a USB keyboard using standard Arduino code and works very well.

 

Very cool overhead handle.

[parkerfly51505]

19 minutes ago, Scott-S6 said:

Very cool overhead handle.

Thanks!  I had a heck of a time figuring out how to attach everything to the racing seat but it works.  

Your seat handle design is awesome.  Compact and out of the way... i.e you don't bang your head. Did you paint the yellow/black stripes?  I used the Flex Pet braid sleeve but it's nowhere near as vibrant as your design.  

[Scott-S6]

2 hours ago, parkerfly51505 said:

Thanks!  I had a heck of a time figuring out how to attach everything to the racing seat but it works.  

Your seat handle design is awesome.  Compact and out of the way... i.e you don't bang your head. Did you paint the yellow/black stripes?  I used the Flex Pet braid sleeve but it's nowhere near as vibrant as your design.  

It's a real handle (the loop). Martin Baker. The texturized rubber over steel cable is very distinctive in the hand. You can get new old stock pretty cheap, they're a stock spare part and they are far less desirable on their own because making the boss the ends plug into is a pain (square bores). Real seat box too. 

Edited December 20, 2022 by Scott-S6

[parkerfly51505]

15 hours ago, Scott-S6 said:

It's a real handle (the loop). Martin Baker. The texturized rubber over steel cable is very distinctive in the hand. You can get new old stock pretty cheap, they're a stock spare part and they are far less desirable on their own because making the boss the ends plug into is a pain (square bores). Real seat box too. 

 

It never even crossed my mind that something like that would be available to buy.  Sure enough, there's an overhead set for sale right now for $235 on eBay.  Tempting but I have to stop spending $$$ on this damn hobby.......... or at least prioritize.  haha

 

[Scott-S6]

21 minutes ago, parkerfly51505 said:

It never even crossed my mind that something like that would be available to buy.  Sure enough, there's an overhead set for sale right now for $235 on eBay.  Tempting but I have to stop spending $$$ on this damn hobby.......... or at least prioritize.  haha

 

Loads of tornado and jaguar parts available right now. I keep looking at control columns... It'd be nice to have a proper European style center stick (front back pivots at the floor, left right pivots right below the grip so you don't need to move your legs to get to full deflection - like on the M2000, for example)

Edited December 21, 2022 by Scott-S6

[parkerfly51505]

29 minutes ago, Scott-S6 said:

Loads of tornado and jaguar parts available right now. I keep looking at control columns... It'd be nice to have a proper European style center stick (front back pivots at the floor, left right pivots right below the grip so you don't need to move your legs to get to full deflection - like on the M2000, for example)

 

I took a quick look at those control columns.  That's a great idea, especially in a cramped cockpit.  Even in my setup I have to move my legs a bit and end up banging my kneeboard.  I found a lot of vintage gear in the UK eBay site but not a lot in the US.  Probably just not finding the right search yet.

[Scott-S6]

1 hour ago, parkerfly51505 said:

I took a quick look at those control columns.  That's a great idea, especially in a cramped cockpit.  Even in my setup I have to move my legs a bit and end up banging my kneeboard.  I found a lot of vintage gear in the UK eBay site but not a lot in the US.  Probably just not finding the right search yet.

Stuff comes and goes as the mil dispose of things. The RAF scrapped a load of tornado and jaguar stuff over the last couple of years so it's pretty plentiful at the moment.

[Tanarg]

I found the limit switch, in photo, works great and is very robust as its made for industrial use. Ignore the red straps they are part of the seat harness.  Allows a realistic pull force on the handle, which only moves about 5-10mm