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Posted

Hi,

 

Yesterday, my Left Throttle Button (responsible for Autopilot on/off) stopped working. I noticed that there is not "click" sound when I press it so it's definitely the button only (not wires or anything else).

 

I am devastated... It cost me so much, it's freaking made of metal, I took soooo much care operating this fancy toy and yet... it broke down...

 

The Windows Input Controller Preference page (or whatever it's called) shows button 15 in red meaning it is "pressed" all the time. I opened this part of the throttle and took the button out but I cannot get to the inside of the button (if that makes sense) at all as it's firmly closed shut with snaping plastic locks (sorry, I cannot describe it better). I tried pressing both of the "thingies" at the same time to open the small button "barrel" but they don't react to any force... I don't want to damage them.

 

I bought it off Amazon and it would probably be a real pain to retun it. I feel I'd be able to fix it if only I could open that button...

 

Has anybody done it? Please, help!

Never say never, Baby!

 

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

Posted

Yep, what PeterP said.. They will ask you to provide a video of the problem before they will do anything tho.

 

I have a problem with my pinky switch, its doesnt "click" in the forward position.. I dont have the capacity to video record so didnt do anything more about it as it still works (for now).

Posted

Hi,

 

I have been mailing Thrustmaster since Friday and they seem to be quite OK with helping me, however..... I was told that my faulty button cannot be fixed by me and that I need to send the whole throttle (without the joystick) to their "local" technical support site which is in......... France! I live in the UK and I cannot believe this is the closest site! Has anybody had a similar issue? We all know that HOTAS Throttle is not feather-light and the size of a thumble... Nobody mentioned it so I guess they expect me to cover the shipping expneses... What about insuring the parcel? It's quite a fragile package...

 

I don't know what I should do. What do you thin about this?

Never say never, Baby!

 

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

Posted

If I remember correctly the UK is still in the EU...

 

 

So here are the facts:

Article 5 of the EU Product Warranty Directive (1999)

Article 5

 

Time limits

 

1. The seller shall be held liable under Article 3 where the lack of conformity becomes apparent within two years as from delivery of the goods. If, under national legislation, the rights laid down in Article 3(2) are subject to a limitation period, that period shall not expire within a period of two years from the time of delivery.

 

They also have to pay you the shipping costs - let you confirm this by a e-mail!

-Ask exactly how to send it in and with which service.

It is their responsibility to tell you this in detail.

 

-And no - there is no closer place.

 

But here is another suggestion what you should do:

If I where you I would explain them again in a very polite way that you are able to replace this button yourself (as you have already opened the throttle) - and ask them if you can just send in the faulty button so they can check it- and return you a new one.

And say them that this is cheaper for both of you - and when doing it this way you are still able to use the Throttle instead of waiting about a Month for the return.

(And maybe also say that you don't want to get back the shipping costs for this button you send in.)

Posted

He bought it online via Amazon - and Mangaroca is right - when he would try it to fix this via Amazon he would probable wait several month before "something" returns....

 

 

 

I bought it off Amazon and it would probably be a real pain to retun it.

Posted
Hi,

 

Yesterday, my Left Throttle Button (responsible for Autopilot on/off) stopped working. I noticed that there is not "click" sound when I press it so it's definitely the button only (not wires or anything else).

 

I am devastated... It cost me so much, it's freaking made of metal, I took soooo much care operating this fancy toy and yet... it broke down...

 

The Windows Input Controller Preference page (or whatever it's called) shows button 15 in red meaning it is "pressed" all the time. I opened this part of the throttle and took the button out but I cannot get to the inside of the button (if that makes sense) at all as it's firmly closed shut with snaping plastic locks (sorry, I cannot describe it better). I tried pressing both of the "thingies" at the same time to open the small button "barrel" but they don't react to any force... I don't want to damage them.

 

I bought it off Amazon and it would probably be a real pain to retun it. I feel I'd be able to fix it if only I could open that button...

 

Has anybody done it? Please, help!

 

Call Thrustmaster directly, I had the same button die on me as well, they are sending a replacement button. If that doesn't fix the problem they said I will need to send the throttle to them to fix, only cost for me would be to ship to them.

Posted
He bought it online via Amazon - and Mangaroca is right - when he would try it to fix this via Amazon he would probable wait several month before "something" returns....

 

I would rather do that....they may send him one back straight away esp if thrustmaster have corresponded to say they recognise the fault.

 

A couple of years ago I bought my cougar from RC Simulations in Bristol. The throttle developed a minor fault shortly after. Called them up, packed everything back in the box and the very next day I recieved an entirely new cougar and the courier took the faulty one back.

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]



64th "Scorpions" Aggressor Squadron

Discord: 64th Aggressor Squadron

TS: 195.201.110.22

Posted

I had the same issue with the Pinky switch.

I described the fault, told them via email that I was soldering iron savvy and they sent me a new switch and its enclosure free.

Mine was also purchased from Amazon, all I had to do was print my Amazon Order Info from my old orders and send it as proof of purchase.

Try again, I found them very helpful.

J.

Rig: Home Built, water cooled,i5 2500K @ 4.3Ghz, ASUS P8P67Pro Mobo, 8GB Patriot Viper 2 Sector 5 RAM, MSI Nvidia GTX970 4GB Gaming OC, 120GB OCZ Vertex 2e SSD Boot, 120GB OCZ Vertex 2e SSD Games (BS & WH), Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB other,

Samsung UE37D5000 37" LED TV,EloTouch 1600x1200 secondary, Thrustmaster Warthog No.467, Thrustmaster MFD, Saitek Pro Pedals, Track IR4 with Track Clip Pro.

 

Ex RAF Aircrew, Real Life Pilot, proud Geek and father of one :)

Posted

Jeeess, may it be that this super duper fancy toy has lots of weaknesses? I´ve bought an already used X-52 pro 2 years ago, cable was half cut away. That thing now is in service since roundabout 3,5 years and it still works fine. No Button makes trouble nore the axis devices are.

 

I want to buy the Warthog by the end of this year, are those buttons (as the decribed above) parts which actually always get broken quite fast? I hope not. From a device which has a price of more than 300€ one can actually expect that it´ll do it´s work for at least the warrenty time.

 

Speaking of warrenty, doesnt opening the Throttle become the warrenty deleted?

 

Memphis

Posted

Memphis,

I can't talk for anyone else but:

 

1. My Warthog is old enough to be out of warranty,

2. My Pinky Switch jammed when I almost dropped it and it hit my desk, nothing else was damaged, not bad from a 1 metre drop,

3. I have never owned a piece of sim kit thats given me the imersion, pleasure or problem free operation that the Warthog has, and I've gone through the Cougar, an X52 and a G940 before I got to here.

4. In a previous job I flew real, living military helicopters. Switches, comms cabling, soundproofing and all sorts fell off and had to be repaired all the time. Thats basically €30,000,000 of hardware. A smidgen more than a €300 for bit of computer gaming gear. That's why we had very well paid, well trained aircraft engineers working near 24/7. I didn't have an engineer available anymore which is why I asked TM for the replacement parts for mine and did it myself.

 

Make your own decisions if you want to pay, if you don't then you could buy a graphics card instead every year or so for the same price for what will probably be an extra 10fps that most of us cant even see. Your call.

Rig: Home Built, water cooled,i5 2500K @ 4.3Ghz, ASUS P8P67Pro Mobo, 8GB Patriot Viper 2 Sector 5 RAM, MSI Nvidia GTX970 4GB Gaming OC, 120GB OCZ Vertex 2e SSD Boot, 120GB OCZ Vertex 2e SSD Games (BS & WH), Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB other,

Samsung UE37D5000 37" LED TV,EloTouch 1600x1200 secondary, Thrustmaster Warthog No.467, Thrustmaster MFD, Saitek Pro Pedals, Track IR4 with Track Clip Pro.

 

Ex RAF Aircrew, Real Life Pilot, proud Geek and father of one :)

Posted
4. In a previous job I flew real, living military helicopters. Switches, comms cabling, soundproofing and all sorts fell off and had to be repaired all the time. Thats basically €30,000,000 of hardware. A smidgen more than a €300 for bit of computer gaming gear. That's why we had very well paid, well trained aircraft engineers working near 24/7. I didn't have an engineer available anymore which is why I asked TM for the replacement parts for mine and did it myself.

 

Wouldn't the TM set also have cables and switches falling off after a few years in a helicopter? It's kinda like saying the £3 keyboard you keep on your desk is SO much better than the €500 keyboard that breaks as you smash it into the wall, because the cheap one is a Logitec.

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

OK, I got them convinced to send me the part. Now, how the hell do you take the old one out??? (I got to it inside but there are two clips holding the button on both sides and i cannot press them simultanously to get it out...) :/

Never say never, Baby!

 

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

Posted

whatever you do...

make sure you have proper tools for this job.

 

I assume that a needle nose pliers like this:

c-k-spitzzange-gebogen-laenge-145-mm.jpg

is what you are looking for.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Hi,

 

Just letting you know that I got the parts from France and managed to fix the throttle button myself.

 

Thank you all for your help! Preparing for take-off... ;P

Never say never, Baby!

 

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

Posted

did they charge you for shipping/customs?

AWAITING ED NEW DAMAGE MODEL IMPLEMENTATION FOR WW2 BIRDS

 

Fat T is above, thin T is below. Long T is faster, Short T is slower. Open triangle is AWACS, closed triangle is your own sensors. Double dash is friendly, Single dash is enemy. Circle is friendly. Strobe is jammer. Strobe to dash is under 35 km. HDD is 7 times range key. Radar to 160 km, IRST to 10 km. Stay low, but never slow.

Posted
did they charge you for shipping/customs?

 

In my expierience, they don't. When i had to send in my throttle, they didn't charge me for sending it back and after 2 emails they recouped my expense for shipping it to france.

Good, fast, cheap. Choose any two.

Come let's eat grandpa!

Use punctuation, save lives!

Posted

I was not charged for the part nor for shipping it to me in UK. Their previous offer (I didn't go for it) was me sending the whole throttle to them and then having the costs returned but only up to £35... This means no insurance or couriering would be involved as the price then would probably exceed 35 GBP.

Never say never, Baby!

 

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

Posted

Can I ask the exact nature of the problem that you had with the button?

I think I may have a very similar issues :(

 

I have to press it in a very particular way, putting more pressure on the upper left side of the button in order to get it to register... Its quite unnatural and irritating so I've been juet cursing under my breath and relying on the AP switch on the base instead. Sounds like it would be worth my time to talk to Thrustmaster.

Posted
Can I ask the exact nature of the problem that you had with the button?

 

Sure. One sunny day, with no apparent reason, the button stopped registering. No matter how I was pressing it I could not get any effect. Something worth mentioning is the fact that shortly before it broke down it was taking more pressure to get it pressed. Also, when broken you could not hear or feel the "click" at all.

 

Hope this helps.

Never say never, Baby!

 

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

  • 3 years later...
Posted

I just purchased a brand new one and right out of the box the "autopilot engage" button is stuck in the "on" position. So disappointed. :(

--Maulkin

 

 

Windows 10 64-bit - AMD Ryzen 9 5900X @ 3.7 GHz - 32 GB DDR4 3600MHz RAM - EVGA FTW3 RTX 3080 - Asus Crosshair VIII Hero motherboard - Samsung EVO Pro 1 TB SSD - TrackIR 4 Pro - Thrustmaster Warthog - Saitek rudder pedals - Lilliput UM-80/C with TM Cougars

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