SrSosio

Hey there. I'm looking on doing this mod myself and bought a mini joystick (for the XboX 360) and a Pro Mini 3.3V, but then I thought of something. I don't like very much the touch and feel of the joystick, it's very tough and bulky, and also it has too big of an angle when fully extended (though I guess you don't need the full extension). But then I thought, is the slew pushbutton ever needed/used? It's not even mapped in the DCS. So maybe I could use one of these joysticks instead, couldn't I? https://es.aliexpress.com/item/32980616037.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.5.2a60194dRJ0PUV&gatewayAdapt=glo2esp I've used one of these to build an Apache TEDAC and works very well.

That's correct. It's about one full 1kg roll. The enclosure alone is about 2.5 days

You will be able to build a DIY TEDAC for way cheaper than $1200 (I estimate around $150 for mine, including the screen. Even cheaper if you don't need the screen). But as hannibal said, is a heck of a work. But if you are into DIYing like myself, you'll enjoy much of the journey of building something of your own. However, it won't be as much work, as you will have someone (me) that will guide you through every step of the process, and you won't have to worry about prototyping, coding, trial and error... if you don't want to make any changes to my design, which is a perfectly valid option if you are willing to deviate a bit from mine, as I did some unorthodox methods that I'll explain in the site, you will have a perfectly working TEDAC and the longest times will be the waiting times for the parts to arrive. FYI, I already started writing the build instructions, but that might take a while to get finished precisely because I'm waiting for parts mostly from China. Also, when I'm done I'll have two fully functional TEDACs, so I'll probably end up selling the prototype, if someone doesn't want to go through the work of building it themselves. Although a prototype, the only difference will be aesthetic. It's perfectly functional and it will be 99% the same as the final product. Glad you're excited with this project It's a DIY project, with mostly chinese parts, and 3D printed parts, so the quality won't be better, ever. But you can build it yourself, and it's going to be way cheaper. You pay $1200 for the work, but also for the finished product, probably mold injected plastic, and nicer switches and buttons feel.

Hi. I recently got a used TM Wharthog, and once I received it, I think I want to replace some of the buttons: - The left throttle button, because it's too stiff for my liking, and it's very hard to push with the pinky - The china hat switch, because it's too stiff too, and too clicky. It's also hard to click, even with the thumb. My question is for the second one, the left throttle button I think it will be easy. How do you disassemble the thumb switches? you are supposed to remove the lever hat, but I'm not sure how to do that. Any advise?

The display does work, but with the amount of wires and tight space, I managed to damaged mine, so it's not working right now, but it's a temporary thing. I had already tested it before that and was working normally. I'm using an Arduino Pro Micro + a Nano board. I didn't know there were Mega boards that were HID, but that would be probably way better. I will need to investigate that. Some of the STL files are already uploaded in thingiverse (link in the website of the original post), and if there are some missing, those are not needed to start building it, and will be adding them later. As I said, the part about sharing it with the community is still in progress. There are some files that I need to upload, the build instructions to write, etc. Gracias por tus palabras Sosio

Hi everyone. I've finally finished building my prototype and it's now fully functional, so I want to share the build process with the community for anyone to build it as well. Here's how the prototype ended up looking like (there are still just a couple of finishing touches left, like the knobs, but it's already fully functional): I've created a website where anyone will be able to see the materials I used and follow step by step instructions to build their own: https://srsosio.wixsite.com/ah-64d-tedac Since this was a prototype and I was changing some things on the run, I didn't document the process yet. There are also some missing STLs in the Thingiverse link that I will be adding soon too. I've purchased more components that will arrive in a few days, so I can fully and properly document the process, so the site is still under construction. But if anyone can't wait for that and want to start building their own, we can use this thread and I will guide you through as much as I can. I hope you enjoy this process as much as I did, and you can play CPG in a more realistic and immersive way.

Just missing some final touches, mine is finished and working. I will now be working on the website where I'll explain how to build it yourself: https://srsosio.wixsite.com/ah-64d-tedac It's still in progress, so feel free to ask me anything here if you need to in the meantime. Not many people realizes it, but in the real thing (and what's modeled in DCS) the cursor is a 4 position + center pushbutton switch, and the Man Track is a joystick. If it's of any help, for the cursor in my project I used a RKJXT1F42001. It's a little bit annoying becayse I haven't been able to find proper 4 way hat switches with center pushbutton. This one is that, but: - it's also a rotary encoder, so the shaft also rotates (but it's stiff, so I don't think it should be too big of a problem) - when pressing any of the 4 directions, the center push is also actuated. I've managed to correct that in the Arduino code You could also use: RKJXM: downside to this is that it's an 8 position hat switch, which is not too big of a deal, the wiring is different, and it also pushes the center button when pressing to any direction. The upside is that it does not have a rotary encoder function, so the shaft doesn't rotate. Something like this (I don't know the part number): upside is that it does exactly what it is supposed to do, with 4 way positions and a center pushbutton, the downside is that it's a little bit flimsy and wabbly in the center. I didn't like the feel of it. For the manual track joystick, I used one of these: https://es.aliexpress.com/item/32980616037.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.121.21ef194dTmc6Ue&gatewayAdapt=glo2esp And it gives it a nice and realistic feel.

I think you can't bail out of the plane anymore. I have done it in the past, but Ctr+E (3 times) in the ground, canopy open, engines off doesn't work anymore, not in the hornet at least.

Thanks, that was helpful

I was loaded with 50% fuel and 12 hellfires. I believe it was about 4000 feet ASL. For some reason, if I try to increase the collective slowly, it just rolls to the right. I'll try recording a clip later and post it here.

I'm sometimes having big trouble taaking off. As much as I slowly increase the collective, it wants to roll hard to the right and make me crash the blades against the ground even before lifting. And I mean roll, not yaw due to torque. What am I doing wrong?

What's the 200 GBP? For the empty shell, or a deposit?

I'm looking for a WH to WW adaptor, but unfortunately they don't sell it anymore. Any chance you would like to sell yours?

Good catch!! that was indeed important. I'm getting there, but there's still something off. The main screen is skewd, and the TEDAC screen is not properly centered (but I think I know what is that, I need to begin the screen a bit more to the right, since the 8 inch is 1280 but I want it to be a 768 x 768) **EDIT:everything fixed now

Hi. I have a 24 inch (1920 x 1080) monitor, and an 8 inch (1280 x 768) small LCD to which I want to export the Apache TEDAC screen. I've created the lua file in my Saved Games: \Saved Games\DCS.openbeta\Config\MonitorSetup\Apache.lua and it looks like this: _ = function(p) return p; end; name = _('Apache'); Description = 'AH-64D TEDAC Screen' Viewports = { Center = { x = 0; y = 0; width = 1920; height = 1080; viewDx = 0; viewDy = 0; aspect = screen.aspect; } } AH64_TEDAC = { x = 1920; y = 0 width = 768; height = 768; } UIMainView = Viewports.Center GU_MAIN_VIEWPORT = Viewports.Center However, it does not appear in the Monitor list: Here's my windows display configuration:

That did the trick, at least for the MT version, as it links directly to the DCS.exe file ("D:\Eagle Dynamics\DCS World OpenBeta\bin-mt\DCS.exe" --force_enable_VR --force_steam_VR) I still need to test if it will work with the single thread version, because that one is pointing to the updater: "D:\Eagle Dynamics\DCS World OpenBeta\bin\DCS_updater.exe"

Mine don't crash. It just won't load in VR

Hi. I've been playing DCS in VR for 2 years now without many issues. I'm running a Pico 4 with Virtual Desktop and up until this morning, everything worked as expected. This morning, Steam VR updated to version 1.25.7 and the headset connects properly to VD, then connects properly to Steam VR, but when I launch DCS, it launches in windowed mode, not VR. I've tried rebooting the computer, MT, single thread version, everything I can think of. Any hint of what could be happening?

Well, my idea is to build some kind of instructions manual to make it for others as easy to build it as possible. You will need a 3D printer though, or a friend who has one

What orientation did you print your grips on? that was quite challenging for me, specially the main body part. I had to "cut" the front button circles and print half circles separatedly and glue them together. Then I had to do a lot of dremel work to them. I would love to have the stp files of the grips to do some modifications. I wrote @hannibal on reddit but didn't get a reply. I've had to dremel a lot of things in the grips and the end result is not as pretty.

Hey there. I just found this thread now, but I'm also working on a TEDAC of my own. So far I used @hannibal's grips from thingiverse, a variation of @Lt_Jaeger's trigger assembly, and the rest I just did my own design to fit the screen and buttons I'll be using for the MFD. I'll share my progress here. This is how it looks as of today: For the joysticks, I used these: Potenciómetro de Joystick de J17 B10K, consola de juegos portátil, PSP, 5 unids/lote|Conmutadores| - AliExpress For the trigger assembly, I'm using a mini limit switch for the 1st detent and a standard 6x6 pushbutton for the 2nd detend. It gives it a really nice feel to it: I won't use a Leo Bodnar board. Instead I'm using an Arduino Pro Micro with a pcf8575 I/O expander board and a button matrix. For the screen, I'll be using a 1024 x 768 LCD screen (model HJ080IA-01E). The intention of this project is not to build a 1:1 replica, but to have something that can be used to play. Dimensions are not according to IRL TEDAC. This can be ignored if your plan is to play in VR or you are ok just using the main monitor to see the screen. @subseauk asked about the knobs in the MFD. Just as a reference, I plan on using two PT-10 pots for the Gain and Level knobs, and a 3 position rotary switch, similar to this: 3 Position 4 Pole MBB Make Before Break Rotary Switch 150mA 250V CK1042 5063200237657 | eBay for the DAY/NT/OFF knob. WARNING: this is a prototype and a work in progress. I will share the BOM, files, and instructions on how to build it after I've finished it and proven that it works. I might even build a final improved version afterwards for myself, and possible sell this prototype ONLY IF it works, and only by the approximate cost of the materials. It is huge work, and I don't plan of building and selling them. I'm doing it for myself. For that reason, I will share my files and project instructions for free. I'm sure @hannibal worked hard on designing his grips, so if he ever decides to remove them from thingiverse and sell them on etsy, that's his right and nobody can blame him. I for sure will not be including other's work in my shared files, but links to theirs instead. @Lt_Jaeger @hannibal please let me know if you don't agree with some of the above. I still have some time ahead before I finish, so I don't plan on sharing anything yet in a few weeks. If anyone wants to start this project before I finish and prove that it works, I'll be happy to help and guide at their own risk.

Hi. I used to use Opentrack with a DIY TrackIR in the past, until I switched to VR about 2 years ago. It worked as expected. I have recently wanted to swtich back to Opentrack for some games and modules, but this time I downloaded AITrack instead. I've set it up as well as Opentrack, and up until that point, it seems to work normally. AITrack reads my head movements as expected and Opentrack reads it and converts it to octopus movement in the preview screen. However, when I launch DCS, nothing happens. I can see this in the Adjust controls window: But no movement, and I'm not sure if it's normal that is greyed out or not. Output in the Opentrack is freetrack 2.0, which should be the one DCS reads. Opentrack version is 2022.3.2 and I've tried both the standard DCS version and the MT version with the same results. Any idea what else could I try?

Hey. I'm building one now, and I'm curious to know what 4 position hat switches did you use. I'm using some that I found in aliexpress, but they are a it flimsy and have quite some play in the center for my liking. I also found some military grade ones for about $37 a piece, and I need 5 of them, so I'm not buying those.

Not sure if this has been mentioned before, but I'm facing some issues that I don't know if anyone has already pointed out. The thing is regardless of whether or not the Mod is enabled in the Special tab of the Options window, it's always on. And regardless or not the chat box is displayed, the box seems to block whatever is behind it, so for instance, I can't sort the server list by ping if the chat box is in the top left corner, because it's blocking it, again, regardless the status of the box (enabled/disabled/shown/hidden). Is there any fix to this or is it just the way to be? Plan B: how do I uninstall this?

That did the trick, thank you!!