Jinja

If a software company continues to focus on last-generation software and deploy resources on updates and new features in order to infinitely refine and update any given software forever and ever, said company would go bust, and the speed of it's demise would increase proportionally with the number of titles in it's stable. That's the commercial reality...

Hardcooooore!

Here's the photos, highlighting the various things in the previous post....

Thx! Oh yeah, and another idea along the same lines as the table-cloth idea. I'll show it in the photos tonight... but you see the whole console that the throttle sits on? All the sides of this wooden console are all finished in B&Q (that's a UK DIY store) black-leather-textured wallpaper (God knows what sort of EMO puts this on their bedroom walls!!), again just applied with PVA glue. This technique is REALLY effective. It really does look and feel to touch like a car-dash (whereas the vinyl table-cloth looks a bit shiny and plasticcy to totally convince). The only downside is the wallpaper would tear easily so it's is only suitable for completely flat sufaces, thus it wouldn't have been suitable for the arm-rest which has curves and angles where I've used padded-form between the vinyl and the wood for a proper-cushioned arm-rest effect.

Ok, will do tonight. I went for simplicity on the board. Took a 3-mill (maybe 5, would need to check) piece of ply. (At the time) I decided I needed a main-panel DCS:BS use, with generic compatibility for use by FSX. So I marked holes and drilled/filed away for a couple-hours. Next is my cheap-and-cheerful solution #1: Take a PVC black dinner-cloth (3 dollars off Ebay) and used PVA glue to attach this snugly over the front of the panel. The end-result is that the panel looks like it's made of plastic/acrylic like the plastics used on car dashboards... much better than painting a piece of wood black. Next pierce the cloth where the holes are and fit my switches. On the rear do all the wiring and connect to a Leobodnar board. Then to finish it off, c-a-c tip #2: Buy some Letraset letter transfers off the internet in different font-sizes. Rule lines in pencil and apply the transfers for symbology. The result is really effective. Sure I'll never have the time/space/money to start milling aluminum, so it's as good as it's going to get for me! Although at this stage I'm ready to rip it up and start again.... I don't see myself going back to BS in any extended basis, so I'm currently deciding how to refresh this for WH in mind...

Yeah, you'll need a good wife, mine understands and encourages my creative bents, so I'm lucky there! ....I think she thinks she's training me up till I'm building custom furniture for the baby... ...and I'm not going to stop her from dreaming.... ;-)

Took some photos for another thread talking about removing bezels from monitors.... http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=64930&page=2 I took a video at the same time and thought I might as well post it here. My pit consists of: TH2GO connected to 3 19" Smasungs with their bezels removed and inserted into a custom wooden frame. 17" no-brand monitor displaying MFDs and Helios. This monitor attaches via swappable jig and wingnuts to the underside of a custom-shelf so I can easily replace it with a G25 for driving. TM:Warthog (nice and cheap courtesy of Amazon ;-), replaced my X52 which needs to go to Fleabay soon! Central wooden jig to hold stick, angled at 15 degrees appropriately. I put 2 diving weights on the wooden base, and that supports it sufficiently so I can deflect the stick without having to compensate to prevent the whole stand from toppling over. Custom button console for leobodnar board, TM throttle. Quite successfully upholstered with cushioned arm-rest and finished in PVC finish (the skills I learnt for this damn simpit!) Seat was bought from a wreckers yard after I removed it from a dead-Citroen. Fully fitted on car slide-rails to wooden platform. Buttshaker bass-unit attached to rear of seat. You can see a visible shake from the camera (resting on the headrest) when I fire the GAU. Anyway, there you go!

Wee, my 1st reputation,now I feel like a proper member! :)

Yeah, very interesting and would be awesome, but when I did this last year they weren't available in UK and were VERY expensive. Don't know whether either of those variables have changed since then.

Thx :) I used 19" Smasungs with native resolution of 1280x1024. They were expensive 'cos thy were the only monitors I had in the office that I could nab at that spec... but they were portrait-rotating ones, which meant I paid well over the odds for something I have ripped off them! I could have used larger monitors with native resolution of 1680x1050 (or whatever TH2GO maximum per-monitor allowed is), but I knew I was going to start crippling my graphics card as the pixel count shoots up, hence my conscious decision to be happy with an overall screen size of 3840x1024

The frame is just simple pine beams tenon+morticed (jointed) at the ends, and a large biscuit-joint in the middle (enlarged photo of this). The frame has no supporting cross-beams to the rear, but with care there is surprising strength in the frame before I inserted the panels. Then using Google Sketch from the start-up, next was to route trenches so the panels can simply slide into the middle of the frame (the LCDs just aren't simply bolted to the rear of the frame, they actually slide into grooves so strength of the overall completed structure isn't compromised. This project was a real undertaking, maybe 60 hours?? I actually got 60% through my 1st attempt (maybe 30-40 hours), and I aborted and started again when I realised there wasn't enough strength as I had made the beams too thin. The routing was complicated and took alot of hand-work afterwards with chisels and files. Dimensions needed to be mm perfect and there was alot of test/dry-fitting involved during the process. You can see the left-bezel is extremely successful and is razor thin. The right one isn't as successful, because of the method I use to sequence the insertion of the 3 LCDs into their respective 'slots'. It was a very risky exercise with 3 expensive Samsung monitors, and I indeed broke one monitor in the process by ripping off the LCD-attached circuit board when test-fitting the monitor. I didn't make the same mistake twice, protecting that part with a plastic sleeve. The end result is just about perfect for me. Love it and looks great!

I've owned about 6 laptops over the years, and my current laptop is my 1st Acer. Damn fine it is too, 4820 TG, has been top of various review round-upsin UK PC magazines over the past 6 months. That dual-screen thing does look interesting.... price'll be key though

Here's the pic of my attempt with a B&Q finest pine frame ;-)

Purg, you don't even need to combine the brake and accelerator as combined axis.... Mavyalex, I setup my G25 recently to act as rudders. Clutch and accelerator are my rudder, and brake is... wheel brake. Just follow this: http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?p=877393

Hi, Yes I tinkered as much as Walker450, and turned to woodworking to fit a frame around all three: http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/attachment.php?attachmentid=110212&d=1275857065 I stripped 3 19" Samsungs, and they looked identical to Walker's LG once all the plastics removed. The results are absolutely worth it, but you will need to plan plan plan.

Can I delete Mark points once created with TMS right?

Vapour, I'm in Coleraine and mine arrived today, and it shipped on the 15th. Hang in there! Today's our last day at my work, where I got it sent to. I had a very impatient morning... If I hadn't got it, with a week off before work resumes on the 6th Jan, I'd have been piiissssed! BTW, THANKS AMAZON! :D

I nearly always never buy games until they're on sale via Steam (DCS is the only exception). Got Left for Dead 2 last week for £3.50. An absolute bargain! Pay £40 for Fallout 4??? No way, I'll wait for some 50% discount weekend....

wow, back to £299???? So was it a 2-day cockup on pricing then??? spotted by a massive spike in sales? Who knows, who cares, mine shipped this morning! :D

In the UK it would be breaking trading standards if these were refurbished repairs but being sold as new. ...and a company marketing extremely high-end, niche products would be taking a MIGHTY risk if there was a backlash from the community they rely on, if they were found to be doing this. I really doubt it, but I will be reporting my serial number to see how this ties in with serials reported by other existing owners in other territories. My feeling is that this might be a genuine mistake, UK PC hardware is NEVER cheaper than the US equivalent in my experience!

Thx for the headsup!!! I also immediately purchased... Just have to flog my x52 pro on ebay and it's a relative bargain! ;-)

Nice, Boot! I have found it hard finding suitable buttons for this via my usual online haunts in the UK (flea-bay / RS online / Maplin). only 63 USD for 1-off? I must not have paid much attention when I did some cursory designing to get me the ball-park figure that I quoted. What size is the panel you designed? And was that 4mm perspex? How about attaching the design file? ;-)

Cool, that's a pretty nice internet-based service there, nice and simple... looking at around 130 dollars for a 1-off perspex UFC panel (I slapped roughly 30 buttons and some text to give me a rough idea of the cost. I wonder is there the potential for a group-buy on something like this? 130 dollars is pushing it, but if there were >20 buyers, that'd be a 30% discount, and it says to contact them if needing 30> for more discount...... that starts looking like a bargain! I'd recycle an old Leo-board for this... I'd love a UFC to tie-in with my new monitor-overlaid MFDs... :thumbup:

That's a good idea, but it doesn't work. The reply still comes in at a fixed time period after the computer voice STARTS to repeat the command you've given, not a fixed time period after thecomputer voice FINISHES repeating the command you've given. I guess the other more important reason for my request (as opposed to immersion benefit), is the efficiency and speed of response from the unit commanded, ie. effectiveness of NPCs. When I am in a flight of 4, if I say in quick succession '2 break right.... 3 break left....', the overall response is glacial (relatively speaking). 1st there's a pause as VAC processes my speech.... then I see VAC driving the radio menu... pause.... computer repeats command .... pause..... unit responds in voice.... ...unit reacts. Anyway, this isn't a complaint, I just think it would be really cool if I could talk and units react as quickly as would happen in real life, and a new (simple?) setting in the future could help this. Oh and as an aside, whilst testing VAC and formations for the 1st time, I was in Finger 4 formation, I issued '2 break left; 3 break right in voice, looked over my shoulder, saw 2, 3, 4 peel off, think 'this is hella cool', and then guffawed as 2 and 3 flew smack bang into each other right behind me! That really made me laugh. It's now my preferred way of exiting a mission if I can't be assed RTB'ing.

Hi, I've only recently started using the fantastic VAC software, which for me has yet again added a whole new level of immersion (on top of TrackIR.... X52 pro... Leo bodnar boards... TH2GO.... Cougar MFDs.... WHAT A MONEY PIT! ;-) Anyways, I have searched but haven't found an answer to this question. When I speak the word and VAC translates that into keyboard input... A10:DCS then repeats what I said, and then I get a reply from whomever the message was intended for. This repeating of what I say by the game undoes a bit of the immersion. It's redundant repitition. Now of course I understand why it's there, but is there a way for me to turn off this repeating of the message I've just given? Many thanks!