FR4GGL3

I had the luck to buy a 3080 for only a few bucks above the MSRP back in the days (10/2020) - so this was not cheap, but kinda okay. But I wouldn't throw more money on it because it has its limits. I have the 10 GB VRAM Version which is obviously limited but also the 12 GB Version wouldn't give you much headroom over it. If you keep this in minde, on itches like that a good scratch will do it.

If this is your current Hardware then you shouldn't have too much perfomance issues. Considering the Hardware Pricing atm I would say it is not time for an upgrade. You could easily wait a bit an see if there will be a bigger performance leap that justifies the amount of money to spend. Yeah, one could always wait and see. But atm I would guess that you could gain a few percent of performance. But you would have to spend a lot of money for just a few percent. So my thought is: it is not worth it, so it is not time to upgrade any of this hardware. If the prices wouldn't be so ridiculous, you could think about the graphics card. But as the prices are sky high and there are new versions very likely to come up this year... just wait for it and see if its worth it.

I use a quick Windows Powerplan Switch via the Desktop Context Menue (right Mouse Button). So I can really quick switch between "I have the Power" and "Sleep you all must now". It came as a .reg file - anybody can find it via google. It helps you to keep your Hardware cool and quiet when you do stuff that also a Tablet could do. Which is like 90% of the time. And when you want to play, all of the power is just a click away.

I am surprised about that, but numbers don't lie. Thanks for trying.

Plz try "Balanced performance" as a comparison. Because if there isn't much differnce, you will safe a lot of heat, noise and a bit on your electricity bill on balanced performance. Not in demanding games but in situations when you simply don't need all of the power. As I read somewhere fly pretty, anybody can fly safe ;)

Do yourself a favour and disable the civ traffic completely and as far as I know that chimney smoke should give you an extra headroom if you lower it to min. You could try to raise your preload radius as you have 32 GB of RAM and this should help you a bit in flight as I guess that the permanent loading while in flight could be noticable on your rather slow CPU (sorry to say, but this thing is a slug).

True. That won't hurt. And it is always worth it to look after stability issues. The strange thing is that DCS starts with okayish performance and then something falls asleep. That is why I thought about resetting all the messed up settings and give the High Performance Power Mode a try. But yeah... probably you are right - better have a look at the stability.

Okay now. One Problem solved. Now you could start in resetting your nVidia Control Panel settings to default and only disable VSync (or put it to "Fast"). And plz disable VSync ingame. Set your Powersafing Option to "High Performance" to loosen all the Throttles (you can put it back to "balanced" if that didn't help). Next thing to try: go into your UEFI and try to disable Hyper Threading. I have heared that this solved some issues with slowing down - although I never experienced this by myself. Also worth trying: disable the XBox GameBar. No one really needs it, but it can hurt. And if you have GeForce Experience up and running: deinstall it. And search for Motherboard hocus pocus tools that promise you overclocking and lightning bling bling. These are also often a source of strange issues.

The problem on issues like this is that there is a lot of systematic work to do. Step by step. And to help you in an efficient way, we would need to do this locally (same place) I would need to see certain things by myself. Just one thing in order to protect your upcoming system: Just to be shure

You are on liquid cooling??? I have a 9900k on liquid cooling which gets way hotter than your 7700k and it doesn't see such temperatures even on Prime95 small ffts (the ones that fit completely in the cache and because of this produce insane amounts of heat).* You know what: get back to standard and wait for your new components. And if you install this, have a really close look at the heatsink placement. It needs to sit flush and and needs to have a reasonable amount of thermal compount. I bet then your problems are gone. Also, you really don't need this magic nvcp settings. Just watch out for VSYNC as it can reduce the fps in certain steps if it can't match your monitors 144Hz (but in this case it usually will sit at around 50 fps). */edit: wait a minute... is this an AIO liquid cooling? Is your heatsink with the pump in it the highest point of the AIO (e.g. your radiator sits on the bottom of the case)? If this is true, don't do this. There will always be a bubble of air in such an AIO. And this bubble will place itself on the highest point of the system. If this highest point is your heatsink, then your AIO does literally nothing. It can't because of the air bubble.

Do you know hwinfo? This Monitoring Tools can work in the Background and it can Show you If your CPU is getting throttled. But over 90°C is too much for being in a Game and Not in a dedicated stress Test. Something is wrong. Maybe your heatsink does Not sit right or your voltages are set way above. /edit: I am now at home and I had a chance to look at your Monitoring Info. I can see that your hottest (peak temperature) cores are CPU#3 and CPU#4. But at the time they hit about 91°C there was not much load. Around 40% on the one and 34% on the other core. The other cores aren't much better. One interesting thing is, that at the all time high, CPU#8 gets about 59% Load and "only" 75°C. So I really guess that your Heatsink doesn't sit plane or maybe your Thermal Paste doesn't do its job. You can check this by pulling the Heatsink. The "stamp picture" of the CPU-Heatspreader on the bottom of your Heatsink will tell you how good the connection between the two of them is. But there is one thing missing in your Monitoring Info: I can't see the Voltage Consumption of the CPU Cores. And I can't exactly tell what "CPU Power" is meant to be in this chart. So I need to use my understanding. My understandig of CPU Power is Wattage. If this is true on your chart, your CPU maxes at ~74W which is nothing. Because the TDP is 91W and I know they would consume up to almost 100W stock - and yours runs at 4,8 GHz which is a bit of an overclock. And whats more is that at this time (Power consumption 74W) the CPU Cores are alle within 78°C to 81°C which is quite a lot compared to the Power consumption. So all of this leads me to be a Cooling issue. And there is another thing I can see out of your chart: you are still using the maximum performance setting in the nvcp. Because your 3090 never drops below 1700 MHz even at no load. And it starves of data hunger. Because it only wants around 140W of power which is nothing for such a beast if it really tries to do its job ^^

Why do you use Image scaling and ultra Low Input latency? Both might Hit your Performance in dcs and i guess both might bei useless in dcs. I would also switch vsync Off in DCS as you have Limited your max FPS which i wouldn't do in the global settings. I do this only in the dedicated dcs Profile. Max Performance Mode could also be a Problem If the cooling of your 3090 and the cooling of the Case is Not top notch. If you want to loosen all potential brakes try the high Performance Power Mode in Windows. This could give you something as your CPU might bei a bottleneck. But make Sure that the cooling of your CPU can Take the 100% load all the time. Watch the temps closely! Btw my Smartphone correction Drives me crazy Edit: your CPU is too hot! You have found your Error. Please have a Look at the correct seat of the Heat sink and have a Look after the Fans. Are they Spinning?

Would it be possible to get screenshots from your nvidia control panel (general and DCS profile) and from the graphics settings of DCS? Oh and did you check the temperature of your CPU?

And my Friends told my that I am insane as I bought my 3080 as it came out - at only a bit over retail price.

Das schlimmste ist, ich schiele bei dir in die Signatur und ich erblicke die Dinge, die mir auch schon im Kopf herumspuken... HP Reverb, JetPad... Hinfort elender Versucher! /edit: und dann zieht sich das weiter. Ich hatte ja das Tomcat Virus unterdrückt. Seit meiner Kindheit. Aber dann kam es wieder dank DCS. Ich habe in der Zwischenzeit noch eine 1:72 VF-84 von JC-Wings, eine von Calibre Wings und eine aus Klemmbausteinen in 1:40. Nuts? Aber sicher!

du kannst nVidia NIS aushebeln und den Schärferegler von früher wieder haben, vielleicht lindert das etwas den Schmerz: Windows Registry Editor Version 5.00 [HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\nvlddmkm\FTS] "EnableGR535"=dword:00000000 Ich habe das mit meiner 3080 nicht gemacht (brauche es nicht, habe aber eben auch noch kein VR Headset), es soll aber auf der 20er Serie viel bringen. Wie immer: vorher die Registry sichern (im Idealfall vorher einen Windows Recovery Point setzen), damit man das alles wieder rückgängig machen kann.

Ausreichend schneller Rechner muss bei mir eh immer vorhanden sein. Allerdings ist DCS schon eine Zusatzbelastung. Gut... kauft man direkt 32 GB RAM. Und noch ne SSD. Und wenn man schon eine CPU kauft (damals) dann direkt die schnellste. Ist heute aber auch schon wieder abgehängt. Dann war der x52 pro zu wabbelig. Und wenn man schon in die F-14 einsteigt, dann muss man schon diesen "Switching to Guns" Moment haben. Also gleich mal bei Virpil bestellt. Natürlich wieder mit Twist-Achse, dann spart man sich die Rudders. Und wo wir schon dabei sind direkt noch das Halterpaket von Monstertech. Oh - und DCS ohne Headtracking geht garnicht, also braucht es ein TrackIR. So, jetzt haben wir alles - dann flieg mal die Tomcat (mit Twistachse). Herrjeh, ich brech mir das Armgelenk und das Timing kriegt man so auch nicht hin. Also müssen doch Rudders her (VKB). Und der Schubhebel vom X52 hat einfach zu wenige Knöpfe und auch nur einen zentralen Hebel. Also brauchts einen anderen Schubhebel. Nicht schon wieder Virpil, der Thrustmaster Warthog Hebel wirds auch tun. So, jetzt ist er da. Geht eigentlich ganz gut, aber der Minijoystick ist ja wohl ein Witz. Gut, da gibts ne Alternative... aus England... Mist, nicht mehr in der EU, jetzt also Einfuhrumsatzsteuer mit drauf. Na Hut ab! Und durch das ganze Homeoffice bräuchte es mal einen ordentlichen Stuhl. Ja naja... einfach nur Bürostuhl oder "Flugstuhl"? Ach drauf g*sch*ss*n... Dann halt wieder was von Monstertech... Kurzum: Ach hör mir auf. Ein Geldgrab dieses Hobby. Aber was willst machen? Ein echter Flugschein ist noch teuerer und eine Tomcat kannst eh nicht in Realität fliegen.

Pretty much this. If you enabled UEFI Mode and have Windows on a GPT Storage (most People did because they wanted to use Resizable Bar / SAM), make sure that your new MoBo is in UEFI Mode.

Ich bin recht zufrieden mit meinen Monstertech Halterungen. Gut, für den Stick hätte ich direkt die Langversion nehmen sollen, aber beim Zeitpunkt der Bestellung hatte ich noch keinen Stuhl mit Ausschnitt zwischen den Beinen. Die Systeme sind durchdacht, alles ist stabil, Erweiterungen passen und zum Beispiel im Falle "ihres" Stuhls MFC1 (der Hersteller ist ein anderer, wenn man sich etwas umsieht ist es auch nicht schwer zu erraten wer es ist) ist es auch wertvoll, dass die Befestigungslöcher alle schon vorhanden sind. Egal was dir morgen einfällt, es wird passen. Ja, die Preise sind recht hoch und zum Teil ist die Kommunikation etwas nordisch kühl. Aber ich hatte 1x ein Problem und es gab eine für mich zufriedenstellende Lösung dafür. UND es läuft alles innerhalb von Deutschland ab. Damit hat man den Zollwahnsinn und den internationalen Versand nicht. Sehr cool fand ich, dass mir damals ein Eloxal Radierer mitgeschickt wurde. Das Ding ist der Hammer und unverzichtbar bei den schwarzen Halterungen. Denn die kriegen schon optische Macken nur vom Hinsehen. Ich bin mit dem Laden nicht verheiratet und wenn es sinnvolle Konkurrenz gibt, würde ich auch fremdgehen. Aber wer das Geld ausgeben kann bekommt keinen Mist - und das ist heute auch schon was wert und muss erwähnt werden (traurig eigentlich).

"everything default" means a lot of Settings on "Auto"? Well, there are OC Boards that do quite a bit of overclocking by leaving Settings on "Auto" (mine does for example). So you might find a guide for your Mobo of setting it up right. On the other hand there are functions that boost up the processors speed a bit farther than statet. There are Settings like Terminal Velocity Boost that can push your CPU a bit higher if the system is cool enough. But that should not lead your system to freezes. And it is really strange that you haven't had this issue on Windows 10. Sorry, I am afraid I can't help as long as I can't see what is going on on your system

This Wattage will produce huge amounts of heat. Even a decent custom Watercooling Loop would have a challenge to cool such a Monster - if we still talk about producing this Wattage out of 12V Rails. I remember what kind of a hassle we had to handle the Powerconsumption of Car HiFi Amplifiers back in the days (they easily double that Wattage out of 12V to 14V - but only for short burst times). But I don't want to lay a track of 50mm² Cables inside of my Computer Case....

Do you overclock or undervolt or anything out of spec? Because this can happen when your CPU goes into idle mode and then stalls because a Voltage (most likely VCore) drops too low. I have this happened on my undervolted machine. My Motherboard only allows an offset. And this offset is used through all the Performance gates. As soon as I go another 0.05V lower, my machine freezes in idle. But it can also happen if you finetune memory timings. But then you should see some other effects like crashes to desktop in certain games (most likely on frostbite engine games).

There is another Thing: power management of the CPU. If you have still some hickups or if you can see strange dips in Benchmarks like 3D Mark or real life Applications, you can tinker around with the power safing option in your UEFI. On my Gigabyte Z390, I need to disable anything lower than C1E (no C3, no C6 or even deeper). Because there are efficency functions that try to raise the efficency by forcing a fast sleep. And there are times when the CPU can't wake up fast enough - you can even see this at the GPU usage as it doesn't get its Data fast enough. Going to energy safing is fine, as long as this doesn't happen in nanoseconds. That is what helped a lot on my machine. But if it ain't broken, don't fix it.

Glad it worked for you. Keep that setting in mind - it works for some more Games with "older" Engines (sorry to call the DCS Engine old, but it mostly helps on older Engines - that is what I wanted to say).

Did you ever try to set VSYNC to "off" or "fast" at the nVidia Control Panel? I have had a similar issue. Since then I have VSync off in Game and at the nvcp - and I do set a fps limit for DCS. This way I could find a balance between performance and produced heat / energy consumption. With zero tearing issues. But that might not work for you. But you could try it.