FR4GGL3

The DP-Cable is locked in on both sides? Do you have another DP-Cable to make sure the cables are okay. I guess this is not your first monitor. So did another monitor get a signal of the DP of your EVGA 3080?

It might be the Liquid cooling - if the pump and the fans are connected to the Mainboard and the Mainboard does all the temp- and load-Management. Your friend should monitor the revs of the fans and especialliy the revs of the LC Pump. If the the Mainboard also revs down the pump on idle, then this could explain why the CPU gets warmer (it is definately not hot) on idle. This is a wild guess, I know. But the first thing your friend should do is monitor the behaviour of his system. Then you might have a chance to find out what is going on.

There are Issues with the LGA1700. It can bent and if it does the contact between the CPU and the cooler isn't good. This leads to high Temps. Roman "Der8auer" Hartung has described it on his youtube channel. He even sells a workaround mounting Plate for this. For furhter explanation watch this: And no, you shouldn't lap your expensive CPU. But this Frame can make sense.

Then thats a Bobby McFarrin Case

Gigabyte Boards have a capability that is called "memory training" if it does that, your PC completely shuts down and then comes up a bit slower than normal. But it should do this while on the AORUS Screen. And this should usually be only the case after UEFI Changes. It should not do that on loading Win 10. There is a chance that your PSU wiring on your 3090 is done wrong. Give every power connector its own power cable. Do not use two connectors of the same wire. The 3090 is a power hog and it can powerspike. Seasonic PSUs are a bit sensitive on such spikes. So you might have a look at your wiring.

Danke, sehr interessant! Die WarBRD Base hat tatsächlich Wobbel-Tendenzen. Ich habe bei mir die mitgelieferten, etwas strafferen Federn eingebaut. Damit wurde es etwas besser, aber ich habe auch nur den Vollplastik VFX Grip. Mit dem schwereren TM Grip ist das bestimmt noch viel extremer. Interessant ist für mich die Aussage mit dem Vibrationsmotor des WinWing Stick. Ist das wirklich nur Vibration wie z.B. an einem Playstation Controller, oder hat der Stick richtiges Force Feedback so dass dann der Stick beim Trimmen auch in einer anderen Position stehenbleiben könnte? Vermutlich ersteres, aber in der Frage spiegelt sich etwas Hoffnung...

Sch...ade... Sonst sehe ich auch nichts was das verursachen könnte. Du könntest evtl Mal shader und fxao Caches löschen. Aber wenn ich ehrlich bin, vermute ich nicht dass dir das helfen wird. Es tut mir leid, mir gehen die Ideen aus. /edit: wenn ich etwas tippen müsste, dann würde ich vermuten, dass deine CPU etwas schwach sein wird. Gerade für MP und VR. Hast du einen Unterbau, der die derzeitige Wunder CPU 5800x3d verträgt? Das wäre vermutlich etwas über dem was du brauchst, aber wenn man schon hinfasst...

Magst du mal versuchen im nVidia Control Panel das VR Supersampling (vorletzter Punkt) auf "AUS" zu schalten? Ich bin mir nicht sicher ob ich verstanden habe was es macht, aber wenn ich das richtig interpretiere, haut er auf deine Auflösung nochmal 4x SSAA (Limit = Max MSAA der Anwendung, bei dir 4x) drauf... UND du hast ja auch noch zu den 4x MSAA noch 2x SSAA in DCS aktiviert. Ich mag mich täuschen, aber das muss doch die Performance auf den Boden prügeln. Zum Vergleich: ich fahre mit meiner 3080 ohne VR nur 2x MSAA und kein SSAA. Außerdem wird da irgendwas konfuses beschrieben, dass abhänhgig vonder GPU (Leistungsabhängig?) dann einzelne Bilder gelöscht werden, falls es nicht reicht. Das könnte ich mir bei einer 3060 vorstellen - und das könnte deinen Tearingeffekt erklären. Auch wenn es etwas weit hergeholt ist... das gebe ich schon zu...

Servus, zu der Ethernet Frage: der Windows Taskmanager skaliert die Anzeige. Deshalb wirkt es manchmal so als wäre die Leitung voll ausgelastet, dabei wird nur 500 KBit/s "Grundrauschen" übertragen. Ich denke das dürfte bei dir der Fall sein und damit eben doch keine Vollauslastung. Das sollte kein Problem sein. Dein anderes Problem ergibt für mich allerdings weniger Sinn. Zum einen schreibst du von Tearing (zerrissenes Bild), zum anderen berichtest du aber davon, dass sich CPU und GPU langweilen. Letzteres wäre für mich logisch, wenn du VSync angeschalten hast, da ich vermute, dass DCS eine "interessante" Implementierung von Double Buffering hat. D.h. die Framerate reduziert sich soweit, bis sie auch in den schlechtesten Fällen stabil gehalten werden kann. Typisch dabei ist, dass sich das System dann langweilt. Das könnte man umgehen, indem man VSync abschaltet. Da du aber von Tearing berichtest, gehe ich davon aus, dass du VSync bereits abgeschaltet hast. Und da krieg ich einen Knoten im HIrn Könntest du mal deine Einstellungen in DCS, im nVidia Control Panel und für deine VR-Brille posten? Vielleicht sieht man da schon Verursacher. Ist aber erstmal ein Schuss ins Blaue. Wenn du genervt bist: Was du auf die Schnelle mal testen könntest, weil es auch einfach wieder zurückzusetzen ist, ist das Umstellen des Windows Energiesparmodus. Entweder hast du einen Ryzen Energiesparmodus, oder bist auf Ausgeglichen. Könntest du testweise mal auf Höchstleistung stellen und damit das Verhalten testen? Wenn das nichts ändert, kannst du wieder zurückstellen (merke dir deshalb wie die Ausgangseinstellung war). Aber das wäre eine Quick and Dirty Lösung die schon 1-2x geholfen hat Performanceprobleme zu umgehen.

Meiner lagert auf dem Dachboden. Aber ich habe hier einige Softwareversionen - bis hin zur alten Saitek Software (meiner ist so alt, da steht noch Saitek drauf... und er pappt beim Softtouch Lack).

Eigentlich sollte das Profil geladen sein (er zeigt ja an: Geladenes Profil AH64D). Allerdings hast du die 3 Moduus genutzt. Das heißt, du musst auch daran denken den jeweiligen Modus mit dem Drehrädchen rechts oben am Joystick auszuwählen (ich meine das war an den Farbcodes grün, rot und lila erkennbar)

Nice Case - I thought about getting this one as well. I would choose 64 GB of RAM because of DCS and I would think about a bigger PSU. Ampere GPUs tend to spike and I don't know if the Corsair RM PSUs can stand that. My Superflower Leadex can, but it was a guessing game. So if you want to be shure and if you have a 40xx Series Card spinning in the back of your mind, think about the PSU. Other than that good choices and have fun with this nice setup.

Pretty much this! It will only throttle if it gets bored because the CPU can't provide the needed data fast enough.

If you want to know who is the better pilot, why don't you simply use the same machine with the same settings (loadout, fuel amount) and then go into the merge? Because this is the only thing to know who is better in a artifical situation like DCS. I mean, everybody will know a story that sets his preferred plane over the other. And most of us have never been in a real Jet. We haven't felt the borders of our fitness, of our bodies and of our stresslevel. It is pretty much useless what the plane x or y could do if the pilots physics can't handle that. Or if you got scared to death as soon as you got the real life bandit on your real life six or if it comes down on you from above. In real life there is no key combination to start over - and I am sure that this fact stresses the hell out of you. The guys and ladies that flew or actually still fly this machines deserve respect for what they can handle. I only know that I couldn't handle it and from that point it doesn't bother me if a plane x or y is "better" than the other in a simulation that can't integrate the weakest point: me. If you wan't to know who is better, take the same (simulated) plane.

I want to say thank you. Because you tried something (performance level) and got the idea that it won't help you on your machine. We all should do such things from time to time. There are no such things like "best settings" as there are too many variables on a whole system. You have a 10xx Series Card. My 30xx Series Card may behave different. I even don't know your CPU Energy State Settings or your RAM Performance as you have a 10xxx Series Intel CPU VS my 9xxx Series Intel CPU. Most of the time the standard Settings in the control panel of your graphics driver are working best. These are tested and meant to work. There are some weird programs that need some tweaking, but yeah, it is not that common (e.g. if you use Cinebench for testing your CPU test it with and without max performance mode in nvcp. It doesn't make much sense, but I get better scores with max performance enabled - on a CPU Benchmark. Weird, I know.). Then there are games with weird VSync Implementations. Some Systems work better if you don't use the game VSync and force VSync via NV control panel. Some Systems don't need VSync at all as long as the FPS are capped and well withing the monitors Freesync / GSync Range (works for me most of the time - but there are Games like Street Fighter IV Ultra or really old Games that I need to run via DGVoodoo. These need VSync via nvcp.) I think you get the idea. This makes it so hard to tell people what settings to choose. People are forced to try by themselfes.

Hast du hinter dir oder seitlich von dir ein Fenster? Ich hatte sowas nämlich schon wenn Tageslicht ungünstig einfällt oder im Fenster neben mir reflektiert und auf den Empfänger geworfen wird. Rollo runter half dann sofort

Yes, height would be great. You will know that you are descending quickly and already beeing rather low when Jester punches out, but it would be more helpful to tell such things a bit earlier.

I can't tell about the feeling when using dampers as I use my VKB Rudders Out of the box. What I can tell you is that I am not able to tell you a difference between right and left pedal. Man, I use that thing with my feet not with my fingers But even if there is one, there are several fineadjustment possibilities that one should really be able to make this feeling even on both pedals. It would really be helpfull if you could get an opinion of a Virpil Rudder user. edit: If I was at your position to choose now and if I would want what you want, then I would buy the Virpil Rudders. Simply because they have everything you want out of the Box. No need to mod anything just simple Adjustments. So why go the hard route if you can have it smooth and easy?

I have the VKB Pedals. But I don't fly any DCS Helicopter modules (not yet). I have found no setting to stop them on a certain position. As far as I know they always come back to their center as soon as they are released. But maybe someone else can proof me wrong. I didn't miss that feature and so I never had a look after it. But I can tell you that I am quite happy with these rudders. You won't regret buying them. They are small, they stay where you want them and you don't have those turning chair problems on a normal office chair. But I guess the same goes to the Virpil Rudders.

Might work in Albuquerque, but if you have the "pleasure" to live in Germany (as I do), you would think twice. I think we have the highest price on electric energy in the whole EU. I wouldn't be surprised if we pay the highest electric bills in the whole world. So no, heating with a mining rig won't allow you to make money. I actually had a look. The bermudas have to pay more than we have to pay So I guess we will see some rising prices - we can't be the number 2 in the world on this one. No way! Back to topic: yes, there are rumours about the upcoming nVidia GPUs. We will see what will be the truth. There are chances that this high Wattage numbers could be the spikes. There are pretty insane spikes on the ampere cards too, but they don't have to write that on the box as the current ATX Standard doesn't ask for that. The upcoming ATX Standards force them to tell people such spike Wattage. Even the PSUs must clearly state how high they can handle Power Spikes. I think this is a good thing as I had several PSUs that couldn't handle my GPUs in the past. And that have been brands that are well known and said to be very good - if not "the best"...

I would say start with nVidia drivers only. And get them from the official nVidia site just to be shure. Uncheck GeForce Experience and you may even want to uncheck the Audio drivers if you don't plan to use the nVidia Audio. If you know that your system runs good and stable this way, you might try to use MSI Afterburner (I personally don't, I also do not undervolt or overclock or downclock or something). Keep in mind that your first and your last goal has to be a rockstable system. So start small.

I don't think that official numbers are correct numbers. Why would anyone post real correct numbers on Weapon Systems - especially if they are still in service? That doesn't make sense to me. As it could bring you in disadvantage situations if your opponent is allowed to know everything about what you can do and what you can't do. The people who really need the real numbers will get them. But only these people. No one else. The best thing that we can get is the judgement of pilots that flew both models or at least had some Aircombat Training against the other aircraft. I remember F-14 Pilots (youtube video - so whatever that means) that stated that they where happy if they could manage to not get shut down VS the F-16 and then there was this Q&A with Okie Nance (as far as I know, he flew both planes). He said that he would pick the F-16 over the F-14 in a pure BFM Situation because it was so good in that situation. Sure, that also doesn't mean much, but I guess it can at least tell us, that a F-14 has really some disadvantages against a F-16 in somewhat artifical Situations (both Pilots fly their Plane well, we just look at BFM perhaps Guns only and so on). I mean, I don't think that this Questions matter. There are jobs that have to be done (other than BFM) and a Pilot has to use its Plane the best way to do that. If there was THE best plane to do all jobs, why are there different ones?

The 6900XT should be a bit faster than the 3080. Although nvidia seems to be better in DCS. That might be different if the transition to Vulkan is done (high hopes here). The problem of the 3080 is its VRAM. Even 12 GB could be a bit low for VR in the future. So I wouldn't buy one today. It is really difficult today. I would say if you think about VR, you better get all the fastest stuff out there. And as the prices are still high, wait another few months - because you really need FAST Hardware.

I am an old man and I can still remember that there was once a competitor named "XGI Volari" (~ 20 years ago). There have been promises before the launch but there has been trouble on launch. So I would say let them enter the market, let them sort out their issues that will be there for sure and if they deliver a good product, yes, I would think about buying it. Why not? It doesn't matter what the brand name is, the product has to be good.

yes, I do changte the Windows Power Plan via context menue at the desktop. and the Windows Power Plan can change the GPU Power Settings if you leave everything untouched: I have set this to "off". And "off" combined with the "normal" power setting in NVCP will cause almost no performance drop as long as my CPU doesn't fall asleep. I can have a stuttering party if I turn on EIST and lower sleep states than C1/C1E (Downside: without C6 powerstate my boost will stop at the regular 4,7 GHz. With C6 enabled it will boost to 4,8 and 4,9 GHz.). But that might be a specific Z390 Gigabyte thing as I haven't read about stuttering complaints on other Z390 Boards. As far as I have been told, the idea of the NVCP GPU power setting "normal" is that the card should have its full power on "normal". But it will powersafe if it doesn't get enough data feed from the CPU. If it starves because of a low performing CPU, that can cause stutter. This happens often in older, lower demanding games (e.g. dosbox games) that don't demand a lot of cpu and this can lead to ups and downs on the GPU speed which may lead to stutter. To prevent this you can define a program setting in the NVCP and set the GPU power setting to "max performance" for such cases. The downside is that this causes more heat output, more noise and more power draw. So what I do in such cases is simply change the Windows Power Plan to "High Performance" as in this Power Plan there are some other tweaks. If you look into tools like "PowerSettings.exe", you can see that there are defined reaction or timing ramps for the CPU. These ramps define how fast a CPU will go into boost or go to sleep. The High Performance Power Plan leaves almost no chance to let the CPU fall asleep or let cores get into park states. So you won't have to worry about a starving GPU and this is what keeps the GPU fast - even if you don't touch the GPU Power Settings in the NVCP. You might test this behaviour on your own system. There is not a lot to change so you can easily do a few clicks to give it a try and can revert to your well known settings without a lot of stress.