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Grizzley78

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Everything posted by Grizzley78

  1. Unfortunately, he said in that post it was definitely on their mind to deal with and that was over 2 years ago, so I'm assuming nothing will be done about it. Nope, not kneeling, and no chocks. It's REALLY bad when I'm running up to drop the arm into the catapult sling. I'm at like 90% throttle just to get it to move. It's ridiculous.
  2. Thanks for the reply. Glad to know it's not just me.
  3. Hey, brand new to SC here and right away noticed something really strange and doesn't seem to matter what instant action I load. When I start to taxi to the catapult in the F14B, I have to go to about 50% throttle before the bird even moves and once it finally does, it breaks loose like something was holding it back and it jumps forward uncontrollably. It's almost like some kind of brake is on, but I've double checked my ebrake and it's disengaged and wheel brakes aren't being depressed. I give it throttle and it just sits there in place and starts shaking and my pilot's head is bouncing around like crazy, then it breaks loose and almost impossible to control. Makes taxi'ing almost completely undoable. Any help of what I might be doing wrong or how to fix this would be greatly appreciated.
  4. Agreed, but I'm not trying to say that it should slave as soon as it's selected. Steps above show I'm slaving the new target myself. But when you go ACQ and select a different target, the TADS will unslave on its own, and point in a random direction. I would assume that if I needed to deslave before slaving the new target, then it would stay aligned to the old target until I deslave. So this doesn't seem like intended behavior.
  5. Post a track so we can see what's going on and maybe get it figured out. Also, are you setting it to auto and then using the laser? Hitting the laser will get an accurate range to target and disable autorange. Autorange is a calculation based on your radar altitude and angle of the TADS, it doesn't use the laser for ranging. So using it will pop you out of autorange and back to whatever was set as manual before.
  6. Repeatable. Steps to reproduce. 1. Store a target close to the AZ limit, wide angle off the nose while pointing TADS directly at the target. 2. Store the same target again while facing off the nose while pointing TADS at the exact same spot on the target. Swap between slaves Notice the greater the original angle off the nose is, the more inaccurate the stored location is upon slaving, in the direction of the angle.
  7. The weapons page, as noted by Frostycab, isn't going to say auto when you set it. The way you see if you are in manual or auto is to look at the bottom left of your TADS / IHADSS. A manual range config will show the full range number, like 2543. But if you are in autorange it will show an estimate with an A such as A2.5.
  8. Repeatable. Steps to reproduce: 1. Store T01 2. Store T02 3. Set ACQ T01 4. Slave T01 5. Set ACQ T02 TADS deslaves and moves to a random location between T01/T02 without CPG deslaving 6. Slave ACQ T02 7. Set ACQ T01 TADS again points to a random location between T01/T02 Continue to repeat. AH64LS-ACQ-2.trk
  9. Repeatable. Steps to reproduce: 1. Store a target as T01 2. Slave 3. Switch to GHS 4. Slew the TADS to a new location 5. Delete T01 6. Press slave again TADS will slew to the previous T01 position that no longer exists in the system. AH64LS-ACQ.trk
  10. Thanks, I'll try starting at the same time. Don't think I've tried that yet, still just trying one at a time.
  11. Yep, I saw that, but fixed internally does me no good right now unfortunately. I tried this, but when I push power to fly, the NG just tanks and the engine dies. This is interesting. I'm trying cold start on the Persian Gulf map. I'm wondering if temperature is having something to do with it. I'll give it a try on Caucuses. OK, so it was still exhibiting the same behavior on Caucuses and the NG was spooling up much slower than it should but I was able to push through by moving the power up to fly before #2 NG hit 50. So yeah, wonder if this is being exacerbated by temps somehow?
  12. Since the patch, I can't get the second engine to start. The NG refuses to go above 52. Even holding down the override or hitting the start sequence again, it just hits a 52 ceiling then starts dropping. I get a Boost Pump Fail warning each time I try to start an engine, even when the first engine starts. I've tried the workarounds people have suggested but none of them work for me. I also noticed that if I start the #2 engine first, then engine #1 exhibits the behavior. I'm experiencing this in single player and cannot get both engines running, so it's pretty game breaking. Tried advancing the power as NineLine suggested, but that doesn't work for me. Engine 1 ramps but 2 just falls face first in the dirt like a 5 year old kid who was running and tripped over his own feet. Any ideas are much appreciated.
  13. I've also had this issue. Even when I've had him stable and all is fine, asking him to do a 180 induces a drop that he never recovers from.
  14. It took me a bit to figure out how to use trim to my advantage instead of making things worse. I have a non FFB / centering stick and I set the center selection in the special tab of the options. Yes, you have to return the stick to center, but point being, that is the point! Once I'm trimmed up, I don't even have to touch the controls and it flies stable and straight as an arrow (ok with some excessive crabbing, but that's WIP). Sure, that's not the exact real-to-life behavior but I have a secret for everyone. This is a game. It's not real life. Hate to be the bubble-bursting party pooper. Seems most people that are having a lot of control issues with trim are not microtrimming. Making these big huge 1-time inputs and messing things up. When I'm transitioning from a trimmed hover to flight, I'm probably trimming about every 3-5 seconds until I'm in my stable forward flight. Trim, return to center. Trim, return to center, over and over in micro adjustments. Same with coming in for a landing (right up until the point you transition to IGE hover which you have to be ready for or you're going to think you're on a carnival ride when you pull that collective.)
  15. Yep I can understand that. It seems a little odd to me that you'd swap back to IHADSS to slew the TADS to a different area when that's what the thumb force button already does. Just back out to a wide angle and then slew, but hey, if it works for you and you blow stuff up then that's perfect. Though it's confusing to me because every time you want to swap back to the IHADSS to look around you have to fiddle with the brightness again, because it controls both the IHADSS and the TEDAC brightness. So you look at what you want, then have to bring the brightness back up on your TEDAC to see. Sorry, I guess it just confuses me and seems like a really convoluted and unnecessary way of doing it. It seems far more efficient to pick the one that's right for the situation, and stick with it.
  16. Turning on NVS, dimming the TADS, and turning the NVS off does nothing but... Turn down the TADS brightness while you fiddle with a completely unrelated switch. The two have nothing to do with each other and are completely different sensors. Then, if you actually NEED your TADS on your IHADSS you'll hit the button and then wonder... 'Why can't I get my TADS on my IHADSS?" Because you left it on and dimmed it to 0 so you can see the TADS symbology but not the video feed. Just do it right. If you don't want TADS or NVS on your IHADSS, don't turn it on. If it's on and you don't want it on, turn it off. If it's day and you don't need the TADS on your IHADSS, take off your IHADSS and use the TEDAC. My gosh, people.
  17. Removing the TADS overlay from the CPG view, A BETTER GUIDE.
  18. HAHAHAHAH That's like someone asking... HOW DO I GET RID OF MY DASHBOARD LIGHTS IN MY CAR DURING THE DAY And people answer.. Turn on your headlights and then set the dimmer switch to 0. Instead of... turn off your headlights. ROFL
  19. Range setting shouldn't prevent you from firing the weapon. If you can't fire the gun, you have missed something. Double check Arm/Safe setting and and that the gun is WAS'd up. Entering A into KU for range just means autorange is enabled, which means it will estimate range based on your radar altitude and downward angle on the TADS/IHADSS. What the MPD shows (MANRANGE) is not what you should look at to verify your setting. That just shows you the default for that seat. Look in the left hand bottom of the TADS/IHADSS and (let's say your estimated range is 2.5k) it will show A2.5. Otherwise, set your range manually. For example, if you plan to engage at 1500 and disengage at 800 then set your range manually to something like 1100 and split the difference. But setting autorange has nothing to do with the gun being able to fire or not.
  20. I had this exact same issue. I was able to lase and fire in a mission, and then in the next mission I did I wasn't able to lase, no matter what I did, and kept getting BAL LIMIT warning. It's working again now, but not sure what I did that fixed it.
  21. You're correct, I just double-checked and it was selected to game mode. Thanks!
  22. AH64LS.trk Controls are responsive, but really unresponsive while on the ground. It's very strange, but once it's moving, then the cyclic and rudder are more responsive but still have to be very heavy handed. If I push the collective all the way up, it just starts accelerating at a ridiculous pace until it's upward of 1000. Sometimes it lasts longer in the air than others. Been to 37k altitude with it. Took about 20 seconds to get that high. Speaking of high, I'm in Colorado and I swear I'm not smoking right now. Look at the track and see for yourself.
  23. I have discovered the supersonic version of the AH64. The AH64LS (ludicrous speed). Appears to be pointing straight down, but I assure you, it was traveling in a straight line forward. Game even played the sonic boom sound.
  24. Yeah, it's confusing because all the other DCS controls I've used have always used those combos for controlling the throttle regardless of position. This control scheme separates out idle position. Their tutorial only had Wags say "use a keybind". He doesn't say which the default keybind is.
  25. I figured it out. The controls list is very confusing. use the search feature to look for "Power" and you'll see that there is specifically a keybind for IDLE. It's R/Alt-Home | End and R/Shift-Home | End for getting the power to IDLE. Once it's at idle, then should be able to use the other keybinds to get it to flight.
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