eaglecash867

Here is the WMR link I used to get mine going. Once you turn it on, you don't have to mess with it anymore. https://docs.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/mixed-reality/enthusiast-guide/using-steamvr-with-windows-mixed-reality

Yup. That's exactly what I do. The USB card is for the HMD only. Then I have an external, self-powered hub for the HOTAS. The external hub provides enough power for the HOTAS, and it makes plugging everything in a lot easier.

That's the exact card I have had in my rig for the last 3 years (recommended by Oculus as having been tested with the CV1 and sensors), and it has been transferred from one 5960X build to my current 8700K build, both with Windows 10 installed. Never had a problem with it. I was thinking that the difference may be that I had the card already installed before the OS even went on the rig, because that was the case when I built the 8700K. But when I had my 5960X, that card was installed after I had been using the rig for a while. I even recently upgraded to Windows 10 1903, with the WMR fix, and it still works like a champ. Sorry, Gun, wish I was more help. Hopefully someone else has had the driver issue and knows how to fix it. This wouldn't be the first time we've all seen a hardware manufacturer that releases a "new and improved" version of something that doesn't work without jumping through a bunch of flaming hoops. :doh:

It probably wouldn't hurt to give the lenses a good rub-down with a clean, dry microfiber cloth to make sure any residual adhesive from the covers is removed. I have also noticed that because of the tight seal the Reverb forms on your face that the lenses will repeatedly fog up while there is still a temperature differential between the lenses and your face. This almost always happens when using the Reverb for the first time in a day. I fixed that by fixing the other problem of not being able to peak past the nose like I can in my CV1. The Reverb's nose seal is removable, so I took it out. That lets me peak over my nose so I can see my keyboard, and it gave the HMD enough ventilation to prevent the lens fogging problem. Also, don't forget the left eye/right eye troubleshooting to see if those distortions are only visible in one eye, or in both. Again, they really look more mechanical/optical than digital.

It would also explain the severely limited sweet spot. I was very close to returning mine for the plastic cover problem. Heh, after I figured it out though, I was just sure I was going to have a permanent palm print on my forehead. I facepalmed pretty hard. LOL

OK, now I see what you're talking about. The earpiece itself has come apart. It looks like you might have received a Reverb that was actually pre-owned, poorly inspected by the vendor after it was returned, and then went back into the vendor's inventory. There would have had to be a pretty good amount of force applied to that earpiece to get the screws to pull out of the plastic housing like that. You should definitely return that unit for a refund. Unfortunately, since you didn't report the damage right away to the vendor, you may have a difficult time convincing them that it didn't happen during use. If that turns out to be the case, you can probably just get HP to send a replacement earpiece to replace that broken one. They'll probably charge you for it, but at least replacing it is a simple procedure. Its hard to tell for sure from the pics of the display, but that really looks more mechanical/optical to me, rather than being the display panel itself. Have you tried closing one eye and then the other to see if its there in both cases. Also, something about my Reverb that had me frustrated the first day I got it was this weird inconsistency in the image. That turned out to be the protective film on the lenses that I didn't know was there. You probably already removed that stuff, but I know from my own experience that the occasional brainfart can occur. ;)

The problem is that you do that all the time here, and I never see you offer to help anybody overcome these obstacles. Pimp was not giving up, and he wasn't whining just for the sake of whining. You would know that if you had made any attempt to help him troubleshoot his issues. I'm guessing that you're unable to offer help because you don't even have the HMD that you're making fun of other people for not being able to get it to work. The vast majority of people who complain about this or that with their HMD make posts here because they are hoping maybe someone can help them. They were all excited about a new product, spent good money on it, and they have issues. Of COURSE they're going to be upset! But, instead of choosing to help, you go right to ridiculing people for not being able to make something work that you, yourself don't even have. That's my two cents on the subject. If you want to continue being a jackwagon, go right ahead and be that way. :thumbup:

There is no wiring that connects the earpieces to the headband. There are two, tiny gold contacts on the headband, with a corresponding pair of gold contacts on the earpiece. HP designed it that way so that the earpieces could be easily, and completely removed. When screwed on tightly, the contacts on the headband mate with the contacts on the earpieces to make the electrical connection. There is no wiring that connects the two.

Time is money, and the card is only 28 bucks. Try it or don't. This discussion has exceeded the point of diminishing returns for me. :bye_2:

It all depends on how much stuff you have running on your USB buses. If you have minimal USB equipment, you'll never see a problem. Most simmers though, with HOTAS, and numerous other controllers plugged in, will benefit from having a powered card. Svsmokey is right about the specific recommendation from Oculus. Its how I found my card. They even told us CV1 users the specific model they tested and found to work best. My gaming rig is also handling the task of being a massive audio/video server for my home network, so I have 3 high-capacity external USB drives all plugged into USB ports on it. Each thing you add to the bus knocks the USB voltage down by fractions of a volt. Each device on the USB bus, as well as each component within those devices, will have varying operating voltage thresholds and you will start to notice strange behavior and random disconnects unless you have a way of boosting the available power.

I was skeptical too when I read about it in the Oculus forums years ago, and it was an Oculus rep who was recommending them. He even posted the link for the card they recommend which I bought from Amazon. Here is the link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FPIMJEW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I was skeptical because I already had an external, self-powered USB hub, and conventional wisdom told me that it should be more than enough. But, because of the nominal cost of the card, I bought one anyway, and my random HMD and HOTAS disconnects were solved forever. Strange though that you haven't seen this discussed anywhere, because this comes up all the time on these forums. A lot of us made the change years ago and had our problems solved. Others in that HUGE HP Reverb thread started just a couple of months ago have made the plunge, and have also had their problems solved. It hasn't worked for everybody, because there ARE legitimate hardware and quality control issues. That happens with everybody's equipment, especially when the first edition of a new product hits the shelves. But that hasn't been the issue in all cases. OLED HMDs, such as the O+, because of the fact that they're using LEDs, are inherently less power-hungry than the LCD panels that the top manufacturers seem to be opting for in the latest releases. That could be a reason that it hasn't been an issue for your O+. The cost is nominal, and although it isn't a guarantee since you very well could have gotten a defective unit, its a logical troubleshooting step that won't make your rig less capable. :D

Don't forget the original F-15 Strike Eagle with those wire-frame MiG-23s and the triangle targets on the ground. F-19? I was obsessed with that game! Had a Colonel with the CMOH and pretty much every other medal. It was a blast! VR has definitely brought that thrill and fun back to flight sims. Can't wait to get the Viper! I'd like to get into a full-fidelity, multi-role, fast jet, and the Navy and Marine Corps stuff we have available right now just doesn't do anything for me.

That's not what he's doing. It just took a few posts back and forth to get on the same page as far as troubleshooting goes. He ended up determining that he has a seized screw on one of the earpieces that is causing his audio issue, so the return he's doing is going to take care of that issue. Something that also seems really easy to do is to make fun of people having problems, without ever doing anything to try to help them. :music_whistling:

Strange. Mine worked right out of the box, without having to even worry about firmware. 3 years later, and I'm still using it. I have an external self-powered USB hub that I plug my HOTAS into. The Inateck card I only use for HMD power. So, I have my Reverb's USB plug plugged into it, along with my 10 foot USB extender for the CV1, so I can easily switch back and forth when I want to. My 2 Oculus sensors are just plugged into standard motherboard ports. They don't require much power to run. You found a solution that worked for you, which is never a bad thing. Can't go wrong with StarTech either. :thumbup:

The problem with the screw definitely sounds odd. I wonder if maybe they got it cross-threaded when they put it on there. That would certainly cause it to jam before being all the way tight and would prevent you from turning it either direction. That is definitely a quality control problem with HP, so you might want to look into getting a replacement order started. If you can't tighten that screw, you won't be able to fix your intermittent audio issues. Might as well get that taken care of while its still in warranty. Glad you got your tracking issue fixed. I've been having more issues like that ever since updating Windows to 1903 and applying the WMR fix. I probably just need to re-run the room setup like you did. :doh:

:doh: People having problems keep saying things like this. I'm not asking about that because I think your motherboard doesn't have USB 3.0/3.1 ports. Motherboard ports do not provide sufficient power to run an HMD at its full potential. I don't care what the motherboard manufacturer claims, it is not enough power in most cases, especially if you have a HOTAS and other items already plugged into other motherboard ports. A PSU powered PCIe card is an absolute must if you expect to get reliable performance out of your HMD. Its only a $28.00 investment and cures all kinds of headaches. I've been experimenting with this stuff on two very high quality, self-built gaming rigs for the last 3 years and I've made my Rift CV1 work in configurations that Oculus said wouldn't work, and the keystone to that whole thing was having strong, clean USB power provided by a dedicated card that mounts in a PCIe slot and gets its power from a dedicated cable that plugs directly into the rig's PSU. My Reverb also works, with phenomenal, glass-smooth, black-out free performance. With the earphones, you say that the bolt is still there, so we're back to looking around in the box and seeing if there is a slotted nut rolling around in there. Its a small, round, cylindrical piece of hardware that sort of resembles the head of a slotted screw. But, its not a screw, it has internal threads. I'm not doubting that the unit arrived with one of the earphones detached, I'm trying to tell you how its put together and how you can easily fix it if you look around in the box and find the key piece of hardware that rattled loose. As I said, HP installs those, but they seem to have forgotten to tighten them down. They can easily rattle loose, depending on how much movement and vibration the box was subjected to on its journey that eventually took it to your door. The way HP designed the earphones to be detachable is actually a really clever design, and it is not at all fragile. They just forgot to tighten the nuts. Turn that box upside down over a white bed sheet or something and shake it. If the nut hasn't already fallen out on your floor and gotten lost (its pretty tiny) it should fall out on the sheet. Sorry about being frustrated, but you asked what you might be missing, and you seem to be telling me "Oh, I don't need to try that, I have this instead." I also have no interest in whether or not we like the same HMD. I'm trying to help you get your Reverb working properly with proper setup so we can determine if you're actually experiencing hardware failure. The horizontal lines you are seeing shouldn't be there, and an LCD display running short on power could easily exhibit that kind of behavior, along with visible, dead pixels, and lines of varying color and intensity. :smilewink:

Get and install one of these and your USB power problems will go away for good, without having to play around with the order you plug things in: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FPIMJEW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 For the intermittent sound issue, just tighten the slotted nuts that hold the earpieces on the headband and you'll be good to go. HP doesn't properly torque those at the factory.

Do you have motion reprojection on or off? Not sure if you had it turned on with your O+. I have that turned on with my Reverb, and with PD 1.0 and MSAA at 2X in DCS, its smooth as glass. I'm not looking at an FPS counter though, just seeing how everything looks and feels with my eyes. Seeing the edges of the lenses was a problem for me too. Its like there's not enough space between the facepad and the lenses for some of us, so I fixed that by applying a foam weather strip to the facepad. That took away the haze around the edges and also improved the focus. I never had an O+, so I don't know what it is like with clarity versus SDE, but the original O I found to look like I was looking at the world through a soft-focus camera. Pleasant to the eye because of not being able to see the blemishes, but it really lacked the sharpness and pop that I had gotten used to with my CV1. I think Samsung called that deliberate hobbling of the optics the "SDE filter". Compared to my CV1, the Reverb has no SDE unless I really choose to focus on that, but its unmatched in terms of clarity. FOV is pretty much on par with the CV1, but I'm already used to the scuba mask feeling, so that doesn't really bother me. With the Reverb, I'm not only getting vastly improved visuals over my CV1, but I'm getting vastly improved performance because I'm no longer having to run PD higher than 1.0, and going above 100% SS in SteamVR has no noticeable benefit to the quality of the visuals. So, there's no upconvert/downconvert process that has to take place with every frame, which really kills performance. Also, power is important, so hopefully you already have a PCIe, PSU powered USB card in your rig for your HMD. One of the ear pieces was broken off? Are you absolutely sure the slotted nut that holds it on didn't just come loose and is floating around in the box somewhere? What I found is that HP doesn't torque those slotted nuts down like they should, so that causes all kinds of issues with intermittent sound that gets worse over time. Get out the magnifying glass and see if you can see that there appears to be screw threads sticking out the side of the headband. If you can see screw threads, and they don't look damaged or broken, chances are the slotted nut that goes on there came off and is rolling around in the bottom of the box.

Yup. I loaded mine like a B-17 for high altitude plinking missions for the longest time before trying some missions where you have to stay in the weeds and needed maneuverability. Loading it like a B-17 made it fly like one. I cut my load down to 4 Mavericks, and 80% fuel, and she can bob and weave like crazy. I can still make it fall out of the sky though if I don't have the right speed and energy for a maneuver. Practice, practice, practice. :pilotfly:

If I load my DCS A-10C like its loaded in the video, I have no problem doing the same maneuvers. Its all about weight and knowing the speed you need to maximize turning performance. That being said, the Oshkosh performance of those A-10Cs is actually a bit tame compared to what they're actually capable of in the right conditions.

I'll have to double-check mine, but I'm pretty sure my SteamVR WMR plugin is up-to-date. I'll definitely look into it though. Thanks Baldrick33! :D

I can kill an MBT with one round...of AGM-65. Works every time, and I don't get chewed up by the MBTs 12.7mm guns. :D

That doesn't say anything about using the motherboard USB 3.0. Motherboard USB 3.0 is well-known for not providing sufficient power to run things like HMDs. Self-powered USB 3.0 hubs are only slightly better in that regard. What DOES work reliably for powering HMDs is a dedicated, PCIe USB 3.0 card that connects directly to your rig's own power supply. Everybody's results will vary, depending on how much other stuff you have plugged into your MoBo's USB 3.0 ports. But, since most of us DCS players have a HOTAS of some kind, that's going to gobble up the power on the MoBo ports. There have been a few people in this thread who have refused to try a PCIe USB card, insisting that motherboard USB is good enough because its a "gaming rig", and they haven't been able to solve their random disconnect problems. On the other hand, others who have made the "investment" of a whopping 24 bucks on a PCIe card have solved their issues permanently. I've had my PCIe card installed since the CV1 days, and it solved reliability issues with the CV1 as well. :D The DisplayPort portion of it, on the other hand, is what they are referring to when they say you can't use adapters, docks, or converters. IMHO, DisplayPort is a "technology" that needs a lot of improvement, especially when being used with VR devices. Cable length is limited to 2 meters. Anything beyond that and you'll get random disconnects, flashing textures, etc. So, DisplayPort devices like the Reverb will work just fine with sit-down games like DCS, but if you play room-scale games as well, just remember that the Reverb (and any other DisplayPort HMD) is going to limit that "room-scale" to a 2 meter radius from your rig. That's really my only major gripe with the direction GPU technology and VR technology are heading. I understand the need for increased bandwidth, but when it comes at the expense of cable length, the VR manufacturers are kind of shooting themselves in the foot by using DP. HDMI was much more forgiving. My old Rift CV1 runs just fine through a 10 foot HDMI extender, the Reverb won't run reliably at all through a DP extender of any length.

If there is any coaxial wiring in the cable, extreme bends, combined with heat (and the connector does get warm) could possibly cause the center conductor to migrate through the dieelectric into the shielding. I'd stay away from putting any bends in the cable.

The higher resolution panels in the Reverb have actually had a beneficial effect on performance. PD above 1.0 in DCS and/or SS in Steam VR are the real performance killers. The Reverb gives better performance at its native resolution than a CV1 running at 2.0 PD, and it looks a lot better too. People do like to blame DCS for everything in VR though, often wrongly comparing performance to "other sims" that aren't nearly as complex.