RogueSqdn

I did it several weeks ago and that was the part that caused the most frustration, but I eventually got it . I'm afraid you'll just have to (carefully) keep at it. Mine works great with some extra deadzone and saturation tweaking.

Whoops! I reacted because that's a common Warthog issue and didn't notice the X52 comment. My bad! :(

The problem is a firmware issue with the Warthog that has never, and likely never will be fixed. Simply disable the LED backlighting on the throttle (which you can do in TARGET GUI without running TARGET scripts while you're flying) and the zoom will be rock-solid.

Hansangb, I just ordered polished black plastic from Staples, but just saw that you ordered resin. Should I cancel and get resin? I'd think plastic would be ok.

Not necessary if you can do without the throttle LED backlighting. Turn it off and all jittering will go away. It's a firmware problem that TM has unfortunately never corrected.

An axis sounds good, but the obvious question is: would doing that disable it if we wanted to use the base slider while using Warthog grips? Probably a worthy sacrifice if that's the case.

Thanks. I think I can make do with the one throttle then. However, I forgot to ask: does your Hornet throttle have the antenna elevation control? I didn't see that in your pictures, and wonder if there's enough wires for you to do that. I imagine it would have to be a momentary 2 way switch, since the only other axis is the slider on the throttle base.

Wow... This is getting better day by day! My question is about interchangeable throttle grips. How will that work, and can it be quickly done, or should we consider ordering an additional throttle?

Then at that point I'd suggest uninstalling TARGET, restarting, and reinstalling. And make sure your plugs aren't coming loose.

Are your stick and throttle plugged into the motherboard or into a hub? Is the hub powered? Reliable? It's possible your hub is shorting and causing the stick or throttle to disconnect, thus causing TARGET to stop your script, and causing DCS to have problems discerning what controls are present. I've had it happen with a few 12-port hubs before.

It IS the LEDs. You can use TARGET GUI to turn it off after plugging it in, then exit TARGET. A script doesn't have to be running.

I would very much want to take advantage of this. :D

Here's the link. http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/3174378/1 Also if you rotate the base you will have to use TARGET to rotate the stick values.

Well, yes and no. If you look at the Warthog stick base you see a square plastic box that defines the stick's travel limits. If you only rotate the base those limits go with it and make it very awkward. DudleyAZ has a thread on SimHQ that I followed to actually mod the WH handle to have a rotation. If you can't find the link I can find it later... I have to get ready for work.

Try reversing the axis in DCS settings.

No problem. They're Thrustmaster Cougar MFDs. The UFC is a Genovation 682U keypad (see this thread). There are two Lilliput UM80 screens behind them. The case holding it all is simply homemade out of 1/2" plywood and painted flat black. I also have an Aimsworth F-16 ICP that I can swap out with the Genovation when I want to fly Falcon 4.

You're welcome. It's the most comfortable I've ever been for general computer use, adjustable in just about any way you can think of. I keep the mouse on the tray with the keyboard, and use that same mouse when flying. That does make it a little awkward to use the keyboard when flying, so I also have a wireless keyboard that you can see on the movable acrylic tabletop to the left. The iPad is kept on the right tabletop for checklists and flight manuals.

If you are thinking about the Obutto, they have specially-made mounts for the Warthog. I can't speak for the Pagnian, I had never heard of them before now. But I can tell you that Chris at Obutto provides very good customer service.

I actually agree with you Trubshaw. I'm less and less inclined to build stuff and just get a Rift. However, he'll still need ergonomic seating and control placement.

Just got an email newsletter from Razer. Looks like there's a new Blackwidow where you can individually set each key's color, called the Blackwidow Ultimate Chroma. http://www.razerzone.com/gaming-keyboards-keypads/razer-blackwidow-ultimate-chroma ${1}

Yeah that's it, the Blackwidow. I keep the Logitech solar on that tabletop to use while flying since unfortunately, Razer doesn't make wireless keyboards. I use the Deathadder as my mouse and it is out of view next to the keyboard. I can still easily use that while flying. I love using the Blackwidow... I wouldn't be easily swayed to go to a non-mechanical keyboard again. Except for laptops of course, and the iPad mini I'm typing this on. :)

No, shipping wasn't cheap for me either... something of this bulk and weight, I don't think you can get away from it unless you're lucky enough to live within driving distance of the distributor. By the way, my stick rotation was done by modifying the handle as seen in this thread: http://www.simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/3170541/Instructions_on_how_to_mod_you.html

I have and am very happy with the Obutto R3volution. There is also the older Obutto Ozone you could consider. Their European distributor is http://www.obutto.eu, and the main website is http://www.obutto.com.

Try going to the Thrustmaster support website and choosing Drivers after selecting the MFD Cougar. The software will appear to be for TM Force Feedback drivers, but includes Control Panel drivers that will allow you to change the ID of either or both MFDs you have. I just had this problem today.

Well for me I prefer tactile buttons when possible. The issue of course, is practicality when dealing with multiple aircraft. With the Obutto and the VESA mounts on articulating arms, I can switch between the two different setups in about 10 minutes if need be. But I prefer the less is more approach, and really don't like having to spend more time configuring things than actually flying. ;)