Thermal

There is no calibration process for the Warthog to match the physical AB detent location to the "logical" AB detent inside a generic game (AFAIK). You can probably apply a transform map to the throttle axis using Target to make that happen (this is the hard way). The easy way is, in DCS, adjust the curve of the throttle axis such that the physical detent matches the logical detent. From memory, with my Warthog it as around +11 (or -11) in DCS. Set and forget. To assist checking you have the right value, you hit CTRL-ENTER in flight and bring up the joystick overlay. This has the Hornet logical AB detent displayed. Tweak as needed. This has the added advantage of being Hornet specific, and would also work for say the Tomcat because the controller curves are aircraft specific, and you can set curve that works for each aircraft - hence no need to run a calibration for each aircraft for every flight.

You can also allocate two buttons inside the axis config - make it two stage lever :)

I have not heard of any mods to do this. Its not clear to me whether the throttle uses a simulated off switch derived from the analog position. I cannot hear a switch being engaged at off. So maybe you can calibrate the throttle to effectively move the idle stop to where "off" is? The calibration tool - (search for "Throttle Warthog Calibration (V1_07)_22_07_2010.rar") has some interesting values in the A10_calibration.txt file. Example from the file (these values are the analog slew deadzone, default value is 0x10): Standard_DZ_SX = 0x01; // 20 Standard_DZ_SY = 0x01; // 21 You modify the calibration file, then run the tool... repeat.

I was purely looking at the apparent failure mode, and used the term "someone" - not trying to blame anyone specific.

(I also posted this in the reddit thread regarding the picture of the failed ball joint) In the picture you can see that the female thread has been completely been stripped out - the silver post has pulled/sheared the outer thread, you can see the remains of the other grey metal thread below the nut. The ball joint itself has a plastic snap-in insert. The ball joint post is not bent, and the insert looks intact. If you try and transfer too much force through the actual ball joint it will pop out of the socket. Someone over-tightened the nut. Thats the only way your going to pull (not bend) a post out like that.

So we can write an extension to use analog input for local viewport control? :) :) :)

Why not MapKeyIO TG2? In shifted state - nothing. In un-shifted --> normal-operation? (If I am reading it right).

I'd pay for a 20 Cam. ... wonders if I could print one ....

Two things: 1) You will need the TMW Mounting Base for the Gunfighter, and will need to drill holes in it to suit the GF. GF and TMW holes are different. GF is smaller, so thats good. 2) You need to be careful that the extended MCG does not have so much throw that it hits the top of the mount.

Let me guess, this happens with the Hornet (and only the hornet) 1) There is a difference between flight idle and ground idle with the hornet. Without "weight on wheels" (i.e in flight) the hornet engine will not let you reduce throttle as much, compared to when weight is on the wheels. 2) You need to adjust the curve of the throttle in DCS to align the AB detent in game with the physical one. This only happens with the hornet. Other aircraft wont do this. You can test them to confirm. There are plenty of threads about both issues.

None of the solutions are that simple, and nearly all solutions involve having the touchscreen as a secondary monitor of your DCS PC. Ikarus/Helios/Touchbuddy(old): Both use DCS monitor exports (which you need to configure yourself) and the run overlays over the top which are touch-sensitive. Helios is maybe the most sophisticated, its also the hardest to setup. Ikarus is easier (mostly). You can run these programs on another PC, but you cant export MFD's or RWR's if you do. If you want to use an iPad or Android, then there are some apps available, and you'll need to setup the data export with "Export.lua", a config file of DCS that controls data export (and you need to find/install/configure a program to accept that data).

Umm.... define "calibration", and "cant calibrate", and how do you even know they are "uncalibrated"?

Thats a nice looking replica Bamse! Just guessing.... Buddy-Fox runs something like a Teensy LC, that presents as a USB-HID Joystick and maybe a HID Keyboard as well. It would also be, at the same time, a USB serial connection. Raygun would be a shim that reads DSC-Export data and relays it to the USB Serial port to activate the master-caution.

If you buy the rather cheap after-market replacement detent, then you will have a lovely push-thru-into-AB throttle, not a lift-off-the-desk-to-get-AB throttle. Then you do not need to mess with Target programming to (poorly) emulate a physical detent in software and also waste a throttle button.

Buy a detent from https://www.shapeways.com/shops/debolestis.

The visible top surface of the ball, directly under the locknut of the joystick is not load bearing, nor is it a friction surface and does not require lubrication. Check out a disassembly video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OQOOoPdmRl8 So I am somewhat skeptical that this method fixed your problem (i.e brush + top application of grease = fixed). Maybe shoving the brush in there dislodged some built up grime. Maybe shoving hard on the stick, opening up clearances inside, and moving surfaces against each other allowed more grime to dislodge. But shoving grease into the top does not lubricate the the actual pivot points of the stick. Like I said, check out the disassembly video. The top of the ball joint you can see on an assembled stick has a lip all the way round, stopping the brush and the grease getting into the mechanism underneath.

Firstly, updating the firmware, when you dont have an identified problem to correct is usually a bad idea. Why exactly do you think that the bootloader wont work in Win10, and that Win10 is the source of your problem? When I lubed my warthog, broke a wire, shorted it, scrambled the stick, physically repaired it - I had to re-upload the firmware (with success) with Win10 on USB3. When you boot the joystick into the bootloader state, as per the instructions you linked to, it wont show up in Game Devices, but will show up in Device Manager.

Kiwi, read Hippos post: https://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=3519572&postcount=30 What your seeing is deliberate. In-flight you can not retard the throttle to ground-idle, only flight idle, which results in what you are seeing. RCTRL+ENTER brings up the joystick overlay, and you can see it in action. With weight on wheels, the idle deadzone goes away, when in flight it comes back.

Thankyou for brewing up the magic viewport pixie dust!

You have two "SetShiftButton" commands, the second one looks wrong.

Cool, thanks!

RCTRL-ENTER will bring up the joystick overlay whilst flying. You can then see exactly where the AB detent is, from the Sim's point of view. You can then play with the curve to match up your Warthog physical detent to the Sim's detent.

Nice looking panel! Which specific ALPS faders did you use? They look like they are dampened and have some physical resistance to move?

Two things: What is the error msg? How much/which config do you need to remove to make it work? (thereby narrowing down what is causing your error)

Capt Zeen, can you let us know how your exporting the FA-18C specific UFC/IFEI etc please? (For those of us that export but dont use Helios)