whartsell

its not a pdf but just go to options controls and click Make HTML for the aircraft you are interested it..if you really want it as pdf you can then print the HTML to a PDF file

Im also working on getting custom stick extensions with bends created. I have a prototype here I will be testing with. Not a very good pic but you get the idea. Lemme know if you are interested

I don't think i was specific enough...each core can only access 3GB/2GB respectively. Since each GPU is rendering a full screen. So if for example a frame requires 3.2GB of Vram for rendering you will have to go to system ram as each core cannot access more than its 3Gb/2GB limit

fly now associates a target profile and a games executable so that you can just click the name of the "Fly Now" configuration and it will load the target profile and launch the game executable. You need to browse for your target profile and there are two different types of profiles. fcf are the "easy" ones you create with the target GUI and the tmc are the more complex ones you create via advanced scripting editor. TARGET does come with some pre-built profiles but i have never played with them so you will most likely create your own. I also never use the GUI editor I created all my FC3 profiles with the advanced scripting editor as its much more powerful. Can do anything you can program via ANSI C

Crossfire is of little advantage in DCS. There have to my knowledge no reported cases of successful crossfire utilization in DCS with substantive facts. the 7990 and 690 are both dual gpu so they are basically crossfire/SLI on a single card. Also even though the 7990 has dual 3GB vram you dont really leverage more than a single core's memory. The same applies to the 690's dual 2GB vRAM. I dont think 2-3GB vram is really enough for 3 monitors at high settings without incurring a performance hit. I currently use 1.9GB with my 6970 at 1920x1840 I have been a long time ATI user and have literally just bought a 770GTX after being frustrated by AMDs drivers. My 770GTX is a 4GB model and will be here wednesday. allegedly DCS performs better on Nvidia vs ATI and so does FSX if your into that. It also appears that SLI does work with DCS ...read about it here

prototype "bent" stick extension All I have found a local company that's willing to do small runs of bent sticks...I still have to try it out and possibly tweak the bends but here is what I have so far. Let me know if there is any interest in these

My bad i ASSumed it worked like the other planes I maintained ...thats what i get ;)

Updated first page to have a link to "flying impressions" with the mod

This is part 2 of my impressions of the VRpit Warthog Extension. The first part covered how to assemble the extension. This part will cover my impressions of flying with the stick extension. I have logged about 5 hours of flying in the A-10 , 2 Hours in the Huey and about an hour in the Su-25a/T. So far I'm very happy with the mod and its quality. Overall the feel is great and precision is good. As I spend more time in other aircraft I will update this page. Overall All My testing was performed with default curves. While the overall experience is great with the mod you will have to take time to readjust to how it feels. You will have to re-learn muscle memory while flying and possibly change some of your techniques. AAR has a different feel but it took only a few contacts to get back into the swing of things Spring Centering With the extension and external springs the stick will still return to center easily. The mod does not have the "snap" to a "notched" center detente like the stock Warthog. Its more like like as it returns to center there is a circular area where resistance drops to near zero. This results in a larger neutral feel than the stock stick however precision is not reduced as this area still has full control (just not allot of resistance). This feels more like the feedback you would get from a real aircraft (yes I'm a real world pilot). Trimming with the Extension Since the center is a bit more ambiguous trimming will require a little different technique than with the stock stick. For example if you are the type that trims by applying trim and just letting go of the stick you will not get the same positive results that you do stock. (IMHO this is not proper trimming practice but allot of people do this). Trimming is best accomplished by just applying trim in the desired direction while simultaneously releasing pressure until the stick feels neutral. (this is more like what you do in real life) Note i said feels neutral as the stick is a bit ambiguous in pressure near the center as mentioned above. This makes small corrections very easy while flying without fighting the trim. Deflection Distances and Pressures The stick is fully deflected at aprox 12" in every direction. For full deflection the pressure is firm but not overpowering and has a good feel. Pressure smoothly increases across the full deflection without any "bouncing" or stickiness. Its very smooth. In my cockpit due to the position of the stick (keep it from hitting the panel) and the size of the base the stick sits a little far from my seat than i would like. By virtue of this position forward deflection is a little uncomfortably far for my reach. This could be adjusted out by using custom curve on the forward part of the axis or by using a curved stick extension. (I have a few ideas on that and am looking into it) Flying the Huey I haven't spent allot of time flying the Huey over all and don't consider myself anywhere near a competent Helo pilot. I flew the Huey about 2 hours with the mod. Flying with the mod made my Huey experience much better. feedback especially during small control deflections was great as the pressure is light and precise. I found myself "bobbing" less during hovers and slow flight than without the mod. My guess is that this is due to the result of the stock stick having high pressure and small throws. I found myself being able to hold a hover reasonably well even with a slight wind blowing. I was also able to approach and land at a FARP with the same wind. (It wasn't pretty as I'm not practiced at it) In the past i was lucky to pick which half of the runway i would land on. One could also consider flying the Huey without the external springs attached at all as there is still some feedback as to where center is and almost no resistance. I haven't tried this but may in the future. Flying the A-10C I spent most of my time in this bird as it is my primary aircraft. Pretty much everything I mentioned with the Huey applies with the Hog as well. The stick has a great feel and additional throw allow for more precise control. For example flying SEMs are much easier as you get great feel and feedback to pull pitch for the peak performance tone. I did find I was under-flaring on the landings but I attribute this to what I mentioned before,your muscle memory will need to be adjusted a bit as you now have more throw to deal with. AAR did take some practice to get used to the stick but I think you will go through this any time you change a stick. Once again, as mentioned in the Huey section, forward throw was a little long for me. Take off was also very precise and you can smoothly rotate to your typical 10deg. pitch without much effort or over-rotating. Flying the Su-25a/T This was the biggest surprise so far. Flying the Frog with the extension was my favorite experience. This plane can actually take advantage of the full deflection of the stick in pitch. flying SEMs in the Frog you could precisely pull pitch for any g-load you wanted. While pulling for 6Gs you would really have to horse the stick back to get it to load up. Once there it was easy to hold the load and you actually felt like you were doing something and working a bit. T/O and Landings were smooth as well. I found you were allot less likely due to the stick travel to over-control the aircraft at low speeds and high AOAs

All the T-handles do is physically disconnect electrical,hydro, and fuel from the engine

did you ever discharge a fire extinguisher bottle into the engine?

That is correct.

+1. This should solve your problem

I have had the same issue randomly. Usually a reboot in my case solves the problem.

I read that book in Jr High.

Im waiting for the 747 v2 as well. Ill still pick up the 777 but there is something special about the Queen

I have a few ideas for POTS stick that may work. Gimme a few days and ill let you all know... Hint its from an ultralight and is really inexpensive.

i posted my assembly impressions of the mod hereand some prelim flying impressions. I will post more thorough flying thoughts tomorrow

EDIT: part two of the review,Flying Impressions is located here Since I am one of the early adopters of the VRpit Warthog Extension I figured I would write about my experience building the extension. Apologies for photo quality my phone doesnt like closeup shots Assembling I decided to go with a 12" stick extension as it appeared to be about the right size. Now that its built I might actually make it about 1/2-1" smaller to fit my seat height better. The assembled stick is very solid and will require a bit of pressure to deflect it all the way to its limits. You will defiantly need to mount the base to something as the force of the springs is more than enough to lift it off the floor. What you get in the kit The kit comes in two options Just the 3-D printed parts to assemble the kit as well as a complete parts list including part numbers to order from McMaster-Carr 3-D printed parts and all hardware minus the actual aluminum extension Both options will of course include an assembly guide and links where to order aluminum tubing My kit included just the 3-D parts required. First-Step -Trial Fit The first thing i did was trial fit the 3-D printed parts to the aluminum extension. You can cut the extension to size with any pipe cutter that can handle 1" tubing. I had one from Harbor Freight that i got for $5 and it did the job just fine. Once you cut your aluminum shaft you must debur the edges inside and outside. This ensures everything fits together nicely. The proper way is to use a file and finish it off with a Scotch Brite pad. If you dont have a Scotch Brite pad you can use one of the foam sanding blocks used on drywall that you can get from your local hardware store. Upper Adapter The Upper Adapter fits very tightly and will require some force to get it all the way on. I used a rubber mallet to persuade it on the aluminum. You can tell its all the way on when you can see aluminum through the optional attachment hole. Getting it off is even harder as you need to insert something inside the tube and tap it out. You really don't need to put it all the way on to trial fit so just get it snug and you should be good to go Lower Extension Assembly These parts fit loosely and will appear to wobble but don't worry they will tighten up when everything is assembled with springs and such Fully fitted Cable Modification TM in their kindness did not use a standard PS2 configuration so we will have to make some changes to the extension PS2 cable and possibly the connector on the stick itself. Modifying to fit the base The manual is very clear on this and its quite easy. Just reach all the way in with needle-nose pliers and break off the black plastic key on the male end of the cable. You will also need to remove a pin. Its not as brittle as the key but with a few wiggles and patience it will break off as well. Modifying to fit the stick grip There are two approaches here I have found. Dremel out the key slot on the female end of the adapter to be longer Snap off the key on the base of the stick grip itself I inadvertently did the latter but would have preferred the former Clevis Installation This requires you to drill and countersink four holes in your aluminum base plate. Conviently the instructions even give you the part number for the proper countersink if you dont have one. The instructions call for .6" from the side of the plate but I used 9/16" and that worked fine. (I wish we were metric. Life would be so much easier.) Make these holes as precise as you can but dont worry if they are not perfect. I had one hole about 1/3 of a diameter off the others and its fine. When you attach the clevis be sure to leave them loose enough that there is enough clearance to pop the retainer off/on the clevis. Cable Installation Believe it or not this was the hardest part for me. After a few failed attempts i wound the cable tightly around a long skinny screwdriver and taped it there for about 30 min. This way the cable developed a little "memory" and stayed coiled a bit. I removed the upper adapter from the extension and attached the cable to the base and fed it in through the bottom while turning the extension so the cable wanted to coil more and it slid into the extension. Patience is key here as it took me about 10 min to get it all the way in. Coiled cable Done Installing the Stick Grip Installing the stick grip on the adapter is a bit tricky as you have to match up the cross section of the adapter to the stick or it will not fit. It also takes a but more pressure than you would think to get it to mount up. You will feel a little thump when its all the way on. this is due to the cutout being exactly the same size as the flange on the stick. You should trial fit the stick to the adapter first w/o the cable so you know how it feels. Pull the cable through the upper adapter then install the adapter on the extension. Remember it will take allot of pressure to get it on all the way. Attach the connector to the stick and then slide it onto the adapter and screw it all the way down. Installing the extension on the base This is almost straight forward. Just align it to the offset you want (im about 15 deg) attach it and screw it down until when the stick is fully deflected the lower adapter almost touches the base. If you screw it down all the way you will not get full deflection. NOTE the stick will feel sloppy and wobbly. This is normal and will tighten up when the springs are on. Installing the springs This is rather straight forward. Rotate the spring mount match the clevis and push the springs into the mount. This is really tight and you will have to wiggle them a bit to get them to clear the holes. Secure them with the nut and screw. Now just pull the stick over towards the clevis as far as it will go and clip the clevis pin back in. Then tighten the clevis. Recheck all your screws and you are done with assembly. you will need to calibrate the stick using the TM Calibration Tool (i used 1.13) Conclusion I am very happy with the stick and if you are looking for an extension this is the one to buy. Its very well thought out and build quality is excellent for FDM 3D-printed parts. FDM is very economical as far as 3-d printing goes but its not Stereolithography so don't expect nearly perfect cast quality parts. The Stick feels very sturdy and I dont think there will be any problems. If by any chance you do run into problems Flim at VRpit is very friendly and helpful. He will take care of you. The springs will make a little noise when they are deflected a bit and its too early to know if it is just a break-in period or if it will linger. I fly with headphones so its not a problem for me. Flying with the stick is a joy. There is more precision by having larger movements and the stick will return to center quickly but its not that "notchy" center most sticks have. If feels closer to real flight controls where you dont have a sharp center you have more of an area near center where pressures drop off substantially. Im not a helo pilot but flying the Huey was very precise no bobbing like i experienced with the Warthog and no extension. I would even be tempted to try it w/o the springs as the stick will still have a (weak) center spot with out them. Flying the mustang was a blast and its alot less touchy. I hated having such small stick movements generate large attitude changes in the plane. Nothing like having the stick stuffed to your nuts taxiing a tail-dragger as thats the way its supposed to be. Its getting late here and the wife is hungry so i gotta feed her (dont upset a pregnant hungry lady) Tomorrow after spending some time flying ill post more thorough flying impressions.

In terms of synthetic performance the Haswell chips are about 5-15% faster. The Haswell architecture sees the biggest improvements for mobile and low power systems but to say it sucks for desktops is not accurate. If you are coming from IB to Haswell it's not worth the upgrade but anything older and you should consider Haswell for at least one reason. Haswell changed sockets again so if you do decide to go IB you will be on a dead end yet again.

I dont fly with curves and i can tell you the UH-1 is alot less twitchy and more precise with this mod. You really get some great feedback as to how much travel you are using and it softens up the center spot on the stick nicely (I dont like a hard snap to center,some people might).

I have finished my build of this mod and am very happy with it so far. the most challenging thing is actually coiling up the cable and getting it in the tube. After a few failed attempts i wrapped mine tightly around a long screwdriver and taped it to let it sit that way for a while. then it took about 10 min to get it in the tube. I will be coordinating with Flim some minor issues i had during the build to see what his opinions are. When I get a chance ill do a full writeup with pics as well. If anybody has any questions till then feel free to ask.

The CV Joint Boots will not fit if you want to cover the springs. They extend out almost the whole dimention of the base. I have been thinking about how/if Im going to make a boot for mine.

What sort of video would you like ?

I got all the parts to build mine and will post details tomorrow. I test fitted everything and so far I'm impressed. Even though I primarily fly the Hog I can imagine how wonderful this would be with the Huey.