whartsell

I have the first batch (6) available and will be getting more soon. I plan on keeping a small stock of these. price is $55USD plus shipping PM me with your shipping address and ill respond with total price and paypal details

You are correct. However in the options menu you can click the "make html" button and it will export them as an html page for your viewing pleasure.

It's actually much easier than that. Ill have more details by the end of the week.

I'm not currently doing "custom" curves but if you have the specs of the Huey cyclic ill check it out.

How to use multiple EOS boards with a Single USB interface You can link them together using the EOS interface board sketch on a Arduino Leonardo board with some supporting hardware. The interface board has a RS-485 transceiver that allows it to talk to multiple EOS boards. It communicates to Helios via serial over USB. The interface sketch will only work on a Leonardo board due to the Leonardo having two UARTS Schematic below is a simple schematic of how to hook up a RS-485 transceiver to the Leonardo Your transceiver may have different names for the pins but the pinout should be the same Obviously all your EOS boards will need this hardware if you want to use RS-485. In The EOS Sketches you will see something like EosBus.begin(2, 250000); This means that digital pin 2 is your TX Enable pin for RS-485. It is also called Device Enable. Notice that it matches the diagram above. If you define a different pin here you just need to make sure that you wire that up to 2/3 on the RS-485 chip Helios when you start Helios and add your EOS interface it defaults to Bus Controller. Change this to Bus Interface After you define your port the controller will start looking for boards connected. You should only connect One board at a time as it will have a default address. If you don't have any EOS boards hooked up to the controller you will not see anything. Once a board has been detected change the address add your next board,rinse repeat till all your boards are hooked up and assigned. From here on out the Helios UI is just like the tutorial.

I just installed a 770 and love it. If money was no issue i would go with the Titan as the extra memory will come in handy for multi monitors,which I run.

More like 40k feet

you can also check out VRpit Warthog Extension And my curved stick shaft in my signature

I agree completely you dont really need all the systems to learn good A2G tactics. Actually if you start using all the advanced stuff you never touch on A2G and CAS basics

I go with bigger cards as I dont rely on DGPU/SLI/Crossfire cards. They dont work with everything I fly

same here. Until I ordered my 770GTX on sunday my last Nvidia card was a 8800GTX. My current card is a 6970

All, I should have parts in hand by next friday (Aug 16th). Once i get them I post purchasing details.

By setup I assume the location of the stick. I haven't looked up the exact throws for the hog but I assume pitch isn't symmetrical ( which this mod is) and roll might be a bit large as well. If you tighten the lower adapter all the way down on the mod the stick throw will be reduced.

Ill be meeting with the manufacturer today so I could get some really quick (if they havent retooled since yesterday) or a few weeks if they have to retool

For your earlier question...shipping Priority International looks like it would be about $24USD 6-10 day delivery time

You planning on using his A-10C seat? If so it should be fine as its the same height he uses. Im sure he will pop in with his opinion soon

I use a modified form of the typical "Lost Procedure" used in GA. Put the plane in an orbit with AP if you have it. Pull up the map use the ruler to get range and bearing to the field. scroll through the waypoints till one matches. Verify your "bearings" by comparing landmarks on the map to what you see outside your plane

I have created a new thread for the curved shaft. Dont want to fill Flims threads with unrelated info

Flying and assembly Impressions and are here This stick shaft is made of Stainless Steel designed for the VRpit Warthog Extension. The dimensions are based on the actual warthog stick but it is not exact. The curves are smaller radius than the real one but the offset to the rear of the gimbals is the same. This is just the shaft. You will need to buy the VRpit Warthog Extension to have all the parts After flying with the VRpit Warthog Extension which is awesome, I was having problems getting the position of the stick setup properly in my pit. The space of the pit diddn't allow allot of freedom to position the stick. I also noticed that getting full forward deflection was a bit of a strain for me as well as the center position being a little forward of what felt natural. Knowing that the real Hog has a curve in the stick (as most aircraft do) I contacted Flim about the dimensions and set off to find a solution. Fortunately there is a bending company nearby that specializes in small custom jobs. The result is my stainless steel curved stick shaft from the VRpit Warthog Extension. The curve looks small (and i originally thought i would have to tweak it) but in my case its the perfect offset. Specs. Overall height: 12" Diameter: 1" O.D. Wall thickness: .049" Price: $55USD + shipping PM me with your address for complete price including shipping Installation of the shaft is nearly identical to the instructions of the straight shaft with one important addition. With the straight shaft the screws to secure the top adapter and the spring adapter are optional. With the curved shaft the screw for the spring adapter is Mandatory . This is due to the curve and resulting offset in the stick. Without the screw lateral deflections will create torque and cause the stick to rotate in the adapters. This is not a big deal as you just draw a center line on both sides of the shaft (a door sill works fine for alignment) then test assemble the lower components of the shaft adapters. Align the screw holes of the spring adapter to the lines you marked earlier and match drill. Stainless Steel is allot harder to drill than aluminum so you will need a decent drill bit and drill. At this time I will not be providing a pre-drilled shaft as every bodies taste is different. I also will not be providing custom curves at this time,unless its a large enough order (5+) to make it worthwhile.

The SS extension weighs about 2x the aluminum one. I haven't noticed a difference yet and the springs have no problem handling the extra weight or the offset of the stick behind the gimbal. As for shipping to UK, I have never done international shipping so it will take me a bit of time. The weight is only about 1.5 lbs total but im not sure if the weird dimension will require any special packaging. Ill let you know

It's basically a rebranded version of Flight Gear which is free and open source. If you look closely at the pics you will see that they are "stolen" from FSX and Xplane. http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/FlightGear#Commercial_redistribution

I got the prototype installed and it works really well. Since the stick is bent you must drill and secure the spring adapter to the stick. The hole is in the adapter so you just need to match drill the shaft to the holes. This is stainless steel so be sure to use a good bit and drill As not to usurp Flim's thread ill start a new thread for this mod tomorrow.

best guess so far is about 55 bucks each. These are not aluminum but stainless steel. Actually easier to bend but harder to paint (powder coating would be best). The good news is that they will polish up nicely if you choose to do that. Assuming all works out well it would be a few weeks before the initial batch is ready. I Just started testing it out. (yes my stick is worn..it gets used that much...just ask my wife)

forgot about that...makes the data "Useable"

Another fun exercise is flying a DME Arc