wasyl00

Steve that method works like a charm!:thumbup: I followed your guide and can confirm that I was able to bind my numpad almost the way I liked. I also created .bat file to run my config the easy way. Still I have some questions regarding binding. Although buttons like Num1, Num2….Num., Num/, Num*…… etc work without problem I could not bind Enter and Backspace on my numpad. Not sure why. I tried different ways of addressing like Back, Backspace, BSPC but no luck. If there was a list of all keyboard commands. Would it be possible to instead call buttons by names like above to call them by the number on the device. It would be very easy since the program is displaying numbers when pressed and there is no valid binding on it?

Yes I did play with the deadzone but still was getting random touches. The problem is the nipple is becoming too sensitive when connected to the printed dome. There is a reason why it is so hidden by default. Biggest issue for me was that I could not rest my hand on the throttle comfortably. I wish slew worked like collie after modding so I could actually lay my fingers on it without fear of making unintended input. No amount of deadzone will fix it. If there was a way to make it more stiff..

wow fantastic job!

wow thats a lot! but maybe for commercial use?

Some time ago I bought a generic number pad on the cheap thinking that I will be able to remap all the buttons to whatever I want. The problem is that DCS doesn’t differentiate between my standard keyboard and number pad and see both as one. So I started digging. First I found HIDmacros to be able to map key bindings separately between different keyboards which was great and it worked great in my desktop apps but not in DCS. Thing is what was happening in DCS is that I was getting double presses. For each keystroke I was getting original button binding and the custom from Hidmacros. It seems that DCS is reading the keyboard processes at low level which Hidmacros is not able to block. Bummer. However the author of Hidmacros stopped development this software a while ago and instead created Luamacros which is purely script based without any friendly GUI. At the moment I had no chance to try if Luamacros will work properly with DCS partly because I’m not so great when it comes to writing code. Anyone had any experience with Luamacros ?

I installed the mod and I must say I will be coming back to the original nipple. The mod looks great but it exposes the slew to potential unintended touches and I bumped it several times during my tests, mainly when trying to operate the coolie switch which is just next to the slew. The problem is the joystick I believe which is not designed to be used in such way. I think I will need to look for something more robust like mooimacow has described. And my small advice- be very careful to not to twist the slew after installation it will be very easy to damage it this way.

I just got these 3D printed on 3dhubs.com. I decided to give this one a try since it's quite cheap to print such small details. Will install it soon and report how it compares to original nipple.

Yep I was wrong. Thanks for correcting that.

I would really recommend upgrading the whole thing. All trio CPU, GPU and Ram is not really impresive. I stopped playing on my laptop a while ago a went desktop which is more cost effective. I was getting terrible framerates at even low settings. And my specs were higher then yours (i7-2630QM, GeForce GT 540M, 16GB Ram). You are running a bit dated machine, maybe it's better to invest in a complete new system. I know we have a new game engine 2.0 and I haven't had a chance to test my old laptop on it but I don't expect a miracle.

Excellent news! Many thanks Andre :pilotfly:

Andre what about adding small little signal every 10 mins to keep the amp awake? Small enough to not really be felt by the user but only by the amp? I imagine this wouldn't be too hard to add "keep awake" checkbox somewhere in options. This would really really help all buttkicker users. What do you think ?

Buttkicker gamer 2 I have one question for Buttkicker Gamer 2 owners here. My amp is going to sleep after no signal is detected which is 20 minutes and it is normal according to the manual. The led is than changing from green to amber. The problem I'm having is that, it doesn't switch back on automatically after I initiate action and expect vibration. I wish to know if this issue is limited to my unit or anybody else is having similar experience. I need to manually switch the unit back on which annoys me much. Now. I’m using this mod (excellent by the way- well done Andre) and have all settings on standard, only thing I did was to change audio source. I’m happy with the vibrations, very subtle not too disturbing but can feel all effects nicely. I’m flying a lot on A10C and during long autopilot runs my amp will just switch off and no amount of GAU-8 will wake it up. Anyone is having this?

I would not call a swap from 100 to 120mm a massive difference yet it further lessens the centering force and gives a stick a bit more throw. Well.. it will feel different. I'm sure I can help you Ragtop. PM sent, check your inbox. :thumbup: cheers

None of these. I one-off used Icontrol server (free) just to easily create lua files. And thats it, no need to run anything in the background etc. Works with 1.5, just need to adjust resolution in DCS settings and choose created monitor config.

I used lasermaster.co.uk. I paid £87 for everything including material (mild steel 4mm thick) and P&P. I sourced the rest bits and pieces from ebay. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes the rotation is still there. I dropped the chair all the way down so the buttkicker clamp gives some resistance but as I said I need to design some kind of rotation lock which would be ideal.

I had my plates laser cut from single 500 x 500 mm plate. All online ordered smooth and easy. Yes the edges were quite sharp and had to file and then sand them a little due to kids in the house. Otherwise I would leave them since they do not overhang beyond the seat. I also had to glue some fabric on a few edges as seen on pictures due to the same reason. As I was putting all design together I realized I would make some small changes here and there. It's hard to nail the final design by the first time but I'm very happy as it is now.

I don't have plans for custom sizes at the moment unfortunately.

Hi chev255, Yes. I'm about to receive another batch in coming days and expect to start taking orders by the end of this week. :thumbup:

Mission complete! I've successfully managed to mod mine MFCDs too. Screens fit just right once the enclosure is glued together and in place. The package looks great and 800x600 resolution monitors are more than enough for this mod. I've got two suggestions for anyone planning to do this. Modify the cutting plans a little and move the power DC socket more to the outside. Otherwise you will end up with the tight squeeze for the power socket. 2mm thin walls make this a bit fragile construction. I would suggest something stronger like ABS or polycarbonate, plexi is much easier to break. You will need additional 2 video outputs (HDMI, DP or DVI will do the job with some converter cables. This may be a problem if someone already have multiscreen setup. Despite these small issues the mod is very much worth to do. No way this can be compared to paper inserts supplied with the Cougars and is much more compact solution than installing much bigger full screen like others suggest. I’m sending big thanks for the OP Speedbird696 who helped me to source the acrylic and responded promptly to all my questions.

Great solution, thanks for sharing. What about the rotation. Does you chair make these small rotations when applying rudder, or it doesn't annoy you?

+ 1 for the rubber wedges but you definitely need to lower you stick/throttle to more ergonomic level. Fly for hours in that position and you hands will die :)

Wheels are not a problem. They sink deep into the carpet. I actually had more issue with the rotation of the chair when operating the pedals. But when I lowered chair and added buttkicker the chair is not rotating so easly. I'm planning to add some kind of rotation lock but still thinking how to bite it.

Nope. Nothing protrude into the foam of the chair. I was lucky with the chair base which offered 8 mounting holes I used to install my plate firmly.

So I decided to modify my IKEA office chair. Due to the fact that I don’t have a dedicated gaming space I had to come up with the way to make my Warthog removable when not in use. The outcome is great. Installation takes maybe 30 seconds turning my home office chair into flight seat and its as easy as sliding in the stick and the throttle into position and thats it. Adjustable spring plungers in the base plate keep the plates tight. If anyone is interested in similar mod I can upload more pics and plan I made for cutting.